Tools & supplies (minimum)
- Basic hand tools: ratchet, extensions, universal joint, metric/SAE sockets (common: 10, 12, 14, 17, 19 mm), 1/2" breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (capable of 10–100 Nm / 10–75 lb·ft).
- Oxygen-sensor socket (22 mm / 7/8" recessed / slotted 3/8" or 1/2" drive) or open-ended crowfoot for O2.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, WD‑40 Specialist).
- Reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade or angle grinder + cutting disc (for rusted flanges/studs).
- Hacksaw or long bolt cutters (optional).
- Vise grips / locking pliers, stud extractor kit (for rounded studs).
- Jack, quality jack stands (2) and wheel chocks.
- Safety: eye protection, thick gloves, long sleeves, dust mask/respirator (if cutting/grinding), hearing protection.
- New catalytic converter (direct-fit OEM or high-quality direct replacement), new flange gaskets, new exhaust bolts/nuts/studs/clamps as needed.
- Anti-seize compound (for O2 sensor threads only), high‑temp exhaust sealer or gasket compound (optional).
- Wire brush / flap wheel, shop rags, drain pan, zip ties or temporary strap to support exhaust.
- OBD2 scanner (to clear codes after install).

Safety & legal
- Work on a cool exhaust. Wait several hours after driving.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before working near sensors/electrical.
- Secure vehicle on level ground with wheel chocks, use jack stands — never rely on jack alone.
- Wear eye protection, gloves; respirator when grinding/cutting.
- Be aware of local emissions laws — replacement must be emissions‑compliant. Catalytic converters are regulated; do not install non‑compliant straight pipes.
- Properly recycle old converter (contains precious metals); many scrapyards accept them.

Preparation
1. Acquire correct replacement: get a direct-fit cat for Nissan Navara D21 1997 or a high-quality direct-fit universal that matches flange configuration and O2 sensor bungs. Confirm inlet/outlet diameters and sensor locations.
2. Soak flanges, studs and bolts with penetrating oil for several hours or overnight. Reapply immediately before attempting to remove.
3. Raise vehicle safely: chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly (if needed for access), lift with jack and place on jack stands under manufacturer‑recommended lift points.

Step‑by‑step removal
1. Let exhaust fully cool. Disconnect battery negative terminal.
2. Locate O2 sensors: usually upstream (before cat) and downstream (after cat). Disconnect electrical connectors and remove sensors with O2 sensor socket. Use penetrating oil on threads first. Remove carefully — if seized, use heat locally on the nut (not the sensor tip) to break corrosion. Apply anti‑seize to the threads of the sensor you plan to reinstall (do NOT contaminate sensor tip).
- How tool is used: slide the sensor into the O2 sensor socket so the wire fits through the slot, use a ratchet to break free the threaded sensor.
3. Support the exhaust: use a jack with a wood block or a strap to support the muffler/cat so it won't drop when bolts are removed.
4. Unbolt flanges/clamps: attempt to remove nuts/bolts with impact wrench or breaker bar and correct socket. Use penetrating oil, heat heat if necessary. If bolts free, remove and separate flanges.
- If studs shear or bolts are frozen, use vise grips, stud extractor, or cut with a reciprocating saw or grinder. When cutting, be careful not to damage adjacent pipes, fuel/brake lines, or O2 sensors.
- If using reciprocating saw: use a metal cutting blade, cut through the bolt/stud close to the flange, leaving stub to drill out later if needed.
5. If the converter is welded into the pipe or severely corroded: cut the pipe at a convenient point (usually between muffler and cat) with reciprocating saw or angle grinder. Make straight cuts for later fitting.
6. Remove exhaust hangers from rubber isolators by prying with prybar or hanger removal tool. Remove old converter assembly.
- Avoid pounding on the converter internals — the ceramic substrate is brittle and can break into dust. Lift straight down and out.

Preparation for installation
1. Clean mating surfaces: use wire brush or flap wheel to remove rust and carbon from flanges. Ensure mating faces are flat enough to seal.
2. Inspect hangers and hardware. Replace faulty rubber isolators, studs, bolts, and gaskets. Use new gaskets at flanges.
3. If reusing O2 sensors, inspect wiring and threads. Replace sensors that show damage or heavy contamination.

Installation
1. Position new catalytic converter into place. Use jack or strap to hold it aligned with inlet/outlet.
2. Install new flange gaskets and new bolts/studs/nuts. Hand‑thread first to avoid cross‑threading.
3. Tighten bolts incrementally and evenly. Torque to manufacturer spec if available. Typical exhaust flange torque is roughly 25–45 Nm (18–33 lb·ft) for small bolts — check service manual. Avoid overtightening and crushing gasket.
- How tool is used: torque wrench set to specified torque; use extensions/universal joints as required to reach bolts; tighten in a cross pattern on multi‑bolt flanges.
4. Reconnect O2 sensors into their bungs. Apply a thin smear of anti‑seize to threads (avoid contaminating the sensor tip). Tighten sensors to the manufacturer spec (hand-tight + 1/4 turn; or roughly 30–40 Nm for many sensors — check spec). Reconnect electrical plugs.
- If a sensor was moved from old cat to new one, ensure wiring routing avoids heat contact and stress — use zip ties.
5. Reattach exhaust hangers and any clamps. Ensure exhaust is properly supported and has correct clearance to chassis, fuel/brake lines, and wiring. No contact or tension on the converter or pipes.
6. Lower vehicle only after verifying all hardware is tightened and stands removed.

Final checks & tips
1. Reconnect battery negative terminal.
2. Start engine cold, listen for leaks around flanges and clamps. If a leak is present, re-tighten bolts and check gaskets.
3. After a short run, recheck torque on bolts (exhaust bolts can settle).
4. Clear any stored OBDII codes with a scanner. If check-engine light returns, scan for codes — often O2 sensor or catalyst efficiency codes will appear and may clear after several warm‑up cycles if converter is good.
5. Road test and inspect again for leaks or rattles.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Broken studs/bolts: soak with penetrating oil, heat if necessary; use impact or proper extractors. Have replacements on hand.
- Damaging O2 sensors: use correct socket, avoid overheat; never apply anti-seize to sensor tip.
- Poor sealing: never reuse old gaskets; clean flange faces; use new hardware.
- Incorrect orientation/fitment: confirm new cat matches inlet/outlet, sensor bungs, and hanger locations.
- Unsafe support: never work under a car supported only by a jack. Use jack stands.
- Legal non‑compliance: installing a non‑catalytic pipe or non‑compliant converter can be illegal and fail inspection.
- Contaminating O2 sensors: don’t spray penetrating oil into sensor bung or get anti‑seize on the sensing tip.

Replacement parts required (typical)
- Catalytic converter (direct fit recommended) — confirm OEM part number or aftermarket equivalent.
- Exhaust flange gasket(s).
- New bolts/nuts/studs and locking nuts/exhaust clamps (stainless recommended).
- Oxygen sensor(s) if old or damaged (upstream/downstream).
- Exhaust hanger isolators (if worn).

Disposal
- Used catalytic converters can be recycled; contact local recyclers or scrap yards that handle catalytic material. Do not discard in regular trash.

That’s the process — plan for 2–6 hours depending on rust and difficulty. Have replacement hardware and a cutting tool ready; take your time on stuck fasteners and prioritize safety.
rteeqp73

Nissan pickup 🛻 broken gear

Adjusting Nissan Hardbody or Pathfinder Clutch Pedal D21 and Wd21 owners, here is how to adjust your clutch pedal. Want to support my work? Consider donating any amount that you ...

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