Tools & consumables
- Vehicle jack (3-ton minimum) and 2 quality jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Impact wrench or breaker bar + suitable sockets (wheel, control arm bolts, ball joint nut)
- Ratchet, assorted sockets and combination wrenches (metric set)
- Torque wrench (capable of 5–200 Nm or 5–150 ft·lb)
- Ball‑joint separator / tie‑rod puller (pickle fork and hammer or press‑type separator)
- Ball‑joint / bushing press kit (C‑clamp style or hydraulic press) with driver adapters
- Punches, drift, cold chisel, hammer
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40 Specialist)
- Wire brush, rust remover
- Bench vise (handy for pressing or holding arms)
- Large pry bar
- Floor jack under control arm for support
- Safety glasses, gloves, shop rags
- New parts and consumables: new control arm(s) or replacement bushings/ball joint(s) (OE or quality aftermarket), new nuts/bolts/cotter pins (never reuse cotter pins), anti‑seize or thread locker as required, grease for ball joint/zerk fittings if applicable
- Optional: heat gun or MAP/oxy torch for stubborn seized bolts, ABS sensor tool if needed

Safety precautions (read and follow)
- Work on a flat, level surface. Chock the wheels left on ground. Use jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Rust and metal shards fly when separating components.
- Support the hub/knuckle before separating ball joint to avoid stressing CV axle and brake lines.
- If using heat, be aware of nearby fuel lines, brake hoses, wiring and rubber boots—protect them or remove if needed.
- If springs are under load, use proper spring compressors or support the lower arm with a jack to control spring force. Don’t let the spring suddenly unload.

Overview of tasks covered
- Remove and replace whole lower control arm (recommended if ball joint or bushings are bad or riveted)
- Replace only bushings or ball joint (using a press) if you have the tools and the parts are serviceable

Step‑by‑step: Removing the control arm
1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, set parking brake.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly while vehicle is on ground.
- Raise front of vehicle with floor jack and support on jack stands under factory support points. Ensure vehicle is stable.

2) Remove wheel
- Remove lug nuts and wheel. Keep hardware organized.

3) Expose control arm fasteners
- Remove or hang brake caliper out of the way (don’t let it hang by the brake hose; use a hanger). Remove rotor if necessary for access.
- If necessary, remove ABS sensor wire bracket and any splash shields blocking access.
- Remove the sway bar end link from the control arm if it interferes (use appropriate wrench/socket).
- Remove the tie‑rod end from the steering knuckle: loosen the nut, use tie‑rod puller or strike the steering knuckle (not the tie rod) to unseat the taper. Remove nut.

4) Support the hub/knuckle and control arm
- Place a floor jack under the steering knuckle/hub or under the lower arm to support the assembly. This prevents the CV axle from being loaded/damaged and keeps the suspension in a safe position.

5) Remove ball joint nut
- Loosen and remove ball joint nut. If it’s a castellated nut with cotter pin, remove cotter pin first.
- Separate ball joint from knuckle using a press‑type separator or pickle fork. Press‑type is preferred to avoid damaging the ball joint boot or knuckle taper. If using a pickle fork, be prepared to replace the boot if it tears.

6) Remove control arm mounting bolts
- Remove bolts at the subframe/body bushing locations. On D21s these are usually two large bolts through bushings. Apply penetrating oil and allow to soak if corroded. Use breaker bar or impact to break loose.
- Once bolts removed, lower jack supporting arm and remove the control arm from vehicle.

Replacing whole control arm (recommended if ball joint is riveted or arm is bent)
7) Transfer parts if needed
- If you’re using a new complete arm, compare to old one and transfer any brackets/sensors as needed.

8) Install new arm
- Position new control arm into place. Start the bushing bolts finger‑tight to hold it in position.
- Reconnect ball joint stud into knuckle, install new nut (and new cotter pin after torquing if required).
- Reinstall tie rod end, sway bar link, brake rotor/caliper, and any brackets.

9) Torque all fasteners
- Torque control arm mounting bolts, ball joint nut, tie rod nut, caliper bolts, and wheels to factory specifications. If you don’t have a manual, mark that you must obtain exact Nissan torque specs — DO NOT rely on random numbers.

10) Lower vehicle and test
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, torque lug nuts to spec.
- Test‑drive slowly to check for noises. Get a professional wheel alignment after any control arm removal/installation.

Replacing ball joint only (if serviceable)
A) Inspect how ball joint is attached — is it bolted, pressed, or riveted?
- If riveted: you can drill or grind rivets out and press in a replacement ball joint OR replace the entire arm. Many technicians prefer replacing the whole arm to avoid pressing.
- If bolted: remove bolts and replace; if pressed, use a ball‑joint press kit.

B) Using a ball‑joint press kit
- Leave the arm in the bench vise or put in press fixture.
- Choose correct sized adapters from kit that center over the ball joint cup.
- Use the press screw to push the ball joint out into the receiving cup. Keep the assembly aligned so you don’t warp the arm.
- Clean bore, fit new ball joint and press it in flush using correct adapters. Some ball joints have a locator pin or flat—align as required.
- Reinstall arm on vehicle, torque and proceed as above.

Replacing bushings (requires bench press)
1) Remove control arm from vehicle and clean external dirt and rust from around bushings.
2) Place arm in a bench vise or on press blocks. Support the arm so it’s not crushed when pressing.
3) Select pressing adapters such that the press forces the inner sleeve out and the arm is supported by a receiving cup—do not press on thin lip of arm.
4) Press out old bushing slowly. Heat the arm locally with a heat gun (not flame) helps loosen rubber. Use penetrating oil on tough corrosion.
5) Press new bushing in using appropriate sized driver and adapters. Ensure the bushing is fully seated and square.
6) If bushings are directional or have an offset, orient correctly before pressing in.
7) Reinstall arm.

How the tools are used (details)
- Breaker bar: give high torque to break seized bolts. Use steady force; avoid sudden impact if bolt head round.
- Impact wrench: speeds removal—use on bolts but avoid over‑torque on reinstallation; always finish final tightening with torque wrench.
- Ball joint press kit: fits around control arm with C‑clamp screw centered on stud. Use cups/adapters to push the joint out into a receiving cup. On installation, reverse the adapters so pressure pushes the new joint into the bore squarely.
- Pickle fork: wedge between ball joint taper and knuckle and hammer to separate. This distorts the tapered surface and dust boot; use as last resort.
- Hydraulic press: on bench to remove/fit bushings. Use large support plates to prevent bending arm; press slowly and align perfectly.
- Tie‑rod puller: threaded tool that pulls tapered joint without hammering; safer for components than pickle fork.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Letting the hub hang/droop: this can damage CV axle boots and ABS wires. Always support hub or jack the arm before separating ball joint.
- Reusing cotter pins or severely corroded nuts/bolts: always replace cotter pins and replace heavily corroded hardware.
- Damaging ball joint boot with pickle fork: use press‑type separator where possible.
- Improperly pressing bushings: using wrong adapters that press on thin metal will distort the arm. Use proper driver cups and support plates.
- Not torquing to spec: under‑torqued fasteners can loosen; over‑torqued can break studs/bushings. Use a torque wrench and factory specs.
- Forgetting wheel alignment: any control arm/bushing/ball joint change affects geometry—get a professional alignment immediately.
- Using heat near rubber/plastic: protect hoses and wiring if applying heat to free bolts or press seats.
- Replacing only some worn components: if the arm is bent or multiple components are worn, replace the whole control arm assembly for reliability.

Parts commonly required
- New lower control arm assembly (recommended when ball joint is riveted or arm bent)
- New ball joint (if serviceable replacement available)
- New control arm bushings (if worn and you intend to reuse arm)
- New nuts/bolts and cotter pins (suspension hardware often single‑use)
- Anti‑seize or thread locker as specified by manual
- Grease (for zerk fittings if applicable)

Final checks
- Ensure all cotter pins installed where required.
- Check brake hoses and ABS wiring routing; no kinks or pinched sections.
- Confirm free rotation of hub and steering without binding before driving.
- Have a shop do a four‑wheel alignment immediately after work.

This covers removal, bushing/ball joint replacement options, and installation of Nissan D21 (’97) lower control arm. Replace the whole arm if rivets are used or if you lack a press—safer and faster. Get factory torque specs and alignment before return to normal driving.
rteeqp73

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