Tools & supplies
- Fresh brake fluid (use manufacturer-specified type on the cap — Nissan VG30E/KA24E typically DOT3 or DOT4; do NOT use DOT5 silicone).
- Brake bleeder kit: recommended — pressure bleeder (10–20 psi) or vacuum hand pump; alternative: 2-person manual bleed (no pump).
- Clear 1/4" vinyl tubing to fit bleeder nipples, plus catch bottle.
- Flare‑nut / line wrench set (10–14 mm depending on bleeders), 8–11 mm sockets/wrenches for wheels.
- Jack, jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Turkey baster or fluid syringe for reservoir.
- Rags, shop towels, brake parts cleaner.
- Nitrile gloves, eye protection.
- Small funnel, torque wrench for wheel lug nuts.
- Replacement parts to have on hand: extra brake fluid, new bleeder screws if corroded, crush washers if you remove banjo bolts, reservoir cap O‑ring if degraded.

Safety precautions (must follow)
- Work on a level surface, engine off, parking brake set, wheels chocked.
- Raise car on jackstands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves; brake fluid is corrosive to paint and skin.
- Keep brake fluid off painted surfaces — immediately rinse with lots of water if it contacts paint.
- Use fresh, sealed fluid only. Don’t mix DOT3/DOT4 with DOT5.
- Do not let the master cylinder reservoir run dry (air into system).
- After bleeding, verify pedal feels firm at rest and under road test at low speed before normal driving.
- Dispose of used fluid per local regulations.

Preparation
1. Park level, chock wheels, loosen wheel lug nuts, raise vehicle and support on jackstands, remove wheels.
2. Clean area around master cylinder reservoir cap before opening to avoid contamination. Remove cap and diaphragm/strainer. Inspect fluid color and level.
3. Siphon/aspirate old fluid from reservoir with turkey baster to lower level but leave some to avoid drawing air into the master. Wipe any sludge.
4. Confirm correct fluid type; pour a little new fluid into a clean funnel to keep reservoir topped while bleeding.

Bleed order principle
- Always begin at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, then progress toward the nearest.
- Typical order (LHD Nissan): rear passenger (RR) → rear driver (RL) → front passenger (FR) → front driver (FL). Adjust if master cylinder location differs.

Method A — Recommended: Pressure bleeder (single-person, clean)
1. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid. Install pressure bleeder reservoir cap per tool instructions; pressurize to 10–20 psi (most recommend ~15 psi). Do not exceed 20–25 psi.
2. Starting at farthest wheel, attach clear tubing to bleeder nipple and drop into catch bottle. Place a rag around the caliper.
3. Crack the bleeder screw one half to three‑quarters turn using flare‑nut wrench; fluid+air will flow into bottle. Let run until colour is clear and no bubbles appear, then close bleeder while fluid is still flowing (or close and then check for no bubbles). Repeat until consistently clear, then tighten bleed screw snugly.
4. Move to next wheel in sequence, keeping reservoir topped. Monitor pressure and fluid level.
5. After last wheel, pump brake pedal a few times to seat seals, check pedal firmness. Check master reservoir level and cap.
6. Reinstall wheels, lower car, torque lugs to spec, road‑test slowly and cautiously, bleeding further if pedal soft or spongy.

Method B — Vacuum bleeder (single person)
1. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid.
2. Attach vacuum pump hose and tubing to bleeder nipple and a catch bottle. Crack bleeder and pull vacuum; fluid will be sucked out drawing air with it.
3. Close bleeder before removing vacuum, then move to next wheel. Keep reservoir topped.

Method C — Two-person manual bleeding (if no bleeder tool)
1. Person A pumps the brake pedal 3–5 times and holds the pedal down.
2. Person B cracks the bleeder nipple to let fluid/air out, then closes it while pedal is still held down.
3. Person A releases pedal and repeats until clear fluid, then move to next wheel. Always keep reservoir topped.

How to use bleeder tools — specifics
- Pressure bleeder: attach hose securely to reservoir neck, set pressure to ~15 psi, watch fluid level frequently. It forces fresh fluid through ABS and lines without repeated pumping. If your car has ABS, pressure bleeding is preferred to push fluid through the modulator; if ABS still traps air you may need a scan tool to cycle ABS valves.
- Vacuum bleeder: place tubing onto bleeder nipple, set bottle below nipple level, attach vacuum pump, open nipple and draw until clear. Works well but may not exercise ABS internal passages.
- Hand pump (two-person): one person presses and holds pedal; the other opens/closes bleeder. Use a flare-nut wrench to avoid rounding bleeder screw.

Tightening and torque
- Bleeder screws: snug — don’t over-torque (usually hand-tight plus a small quarter-turn with wrench). If damaged/corroded replace.
- If you remove banjo bolts (to replace hoses/calipers), replace copper crush washers and torque to manufacturer spec.

Common pitfalls & troubleshooting
- Letting reservoir run dry: introduces air, requires re-bleeding and is primary cause of soft pedal.
- Using wrong fluid: DOT5 (silicone) will ruin a glycol system — flush entire system and replace components if mixed.
- Contaminating fluid: dirt/paint will clog lines/calipers. Always clean cap area before opening.
- Rounding bleeder nipples: use the correct-size flare/line wrench, not adjustable pliers.
- Not exercising ABS: some ABS units trap air; pedal may feel spongy until ABS is cycled with a scan tool or by controlled ABS activations. If pedal remains soft after full flush, professional bleed with diagnostic tool recommended.
- Corroded lines, worn hoses, leaking wheel cylinders/calipers: if fluid level falls and you see external seepage, repair/replace those parts before re-bleeding.
- Old rubber parts: if hoses are bulging or cracked, replace hoses — flushing alone won't fix hydraulic leaks or degraded hose walls.

When replacement parts are required
- Bleeder screws: replace if rounded/corroded or leaking.
- Brake hoses: replace if cracked, soft, bulging or leaking.
- Banjo bolt crush washers: replace whenever you separate a banjo fitting.
- Master cylinder reservoir cap O‑ring: replace if hardened or leaking.
- Calipers and wheel cylinders: replace or rebuild if leaking or seized.
- If fluid is heavily dark and contains water (saturated), consider replacing rubber components and possibly flushing longer; ABS unit contamination may require professional attention.

Final checks
- Ensure reservoir level is correct and cap sealed.
- Verify no leaks at calipers/lines/ABS unit/master cylinder.
- Pedal should be firm with minimal travel at rest.
- Road‑test in a safe area at low speed, check for braking performance and ABS operation. Recheck fluid level after test and after first few stops.

Time estimate
- 1–2 hours with pressure bleeder; longer for manual or if parts need replacement.

Done — follow steps precisely and don’t drive until brakes feel solid.
rteeqp73

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