Summary first: A strut mount is the top support and bearing for a MacPherson strut assembly: it holds the top of the coil spring/strut to the vehicle body, isolates vibration and road noise with rubber, and (on front struts) provides a rotating bearing so the strut can pivot with steering. Replacing a worn or damaged strut mount restores steering feel, reduces noise/clunks, and prevents premature tire/wheel/hub wear. Below I give the components, theory, tools, safety notes, a clear step‑by‑step procedure, common failure modes, and what can go wrong. Read every safety item before you begin.

Quick safety rules (read first)
- Work on flat ground, engage parking brake, chock opposite wheels.
- Use a proper floor jack and rated jack stands — never rely only on the jack.
- Compress coil springs only with a proper two‑leg (paired) spring compressor rated for automotive use. Single‑ended or improvised tools are dangerous.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep your body clear of the coil spring path while decompressing.
- Get the correct torque specs and tightening order from the vehicle service manual. If you don’t have them, stop and obtain them.
- After reassembling, a professional wheel alignment is required.

What the system is and how it works (big picture + analogies)
- MacPherson strut assembly = coil spring + shock absorber (strut) + upper mount/bearing + lower mounting bracket.
- The strut is the shock absorber and a structural member for the wheel. The coil spring supports vehicle weight and stores energy.
- The strut mount sits between the car body and the top of the strut/spring. The rubber or elastomer in the mount isolates vibration (like a pillow between metal parts). If there’s a bearing inside (front struts), it lets the top of the strut rotate smoothly when you steer — think of the bearing as a “lazy Susan” for steering.
- The spring seat is a platform that holds the spring’s top coil; a dust boot and bump stop protect the strut shaft from dirt and prevent bottoming out.
- If the mount fails, the isolation and bearing function go away: you hear clunks, feel steering notchiness, and stress transfers to other components.

Detailed components (every part you’ll see and why it matters)
- Strut cartridge (shock): damps oscillation. If worn, ride will be bouncy.
- Strut shaft/rod: center threaded stud at the top of the strut that the top nut clamps onto.
- Coil spring: supports vehicle weight and provides spring rate.
- Upper spring seat / perch: ring / cup on top that the spring rests in.
- Strut mount (upper mount): rubber/elastomer block bonded to metal plate. Absorbs noise/vibration and locates the top of the strut assembly to the body. May include:
- Center nut/retainer: secures strut to mount.
- Bearing (ball/roller or plain thrust bearing): allows rotation for steering (front). On rear struts, often no bearing.
- Mounting studs/plate: bolt to the body or tower.
- Dust boot: protects the strut shaft from dirt.
- Bump stop: a small rubber or foam element on the strut shaft that limits travel and prevents metal‑to‑metal contact.
- Lower mount/knuckle bracket: the lower strut bolt(s) that attach the strut to the steering knuckle.
- Sway bar link, brake hose bracket, ABS sensor bracket: nearby attachments that must be moved during removal.
- Fasteners: nuts, bolts, washers — often single‑use torque‑to-yield in some cars; use new if specified.

Why a strut mount replacement is needed (symptoms & diagnosis)
- Symptoms:
- Clunking or popping from the top of the strut on bumps or over steering maneuvers.
- Vibration/noise transmitted into the cabin.
- Steering feels notchy or resists return to center (bearing failure).
- Visible cracks, torn rubber, or fluid/oil seeping on strut (strut may also be failing).
- Uneven tire wear or alignment difficult to set.
- Diagnosis: Inspect mount rubber for cracks, play between strut and body (with wheel off, try to move strut top), spin the strut top bearing by hand (when removed) to feel roughness or binding.

Tools and parts you will need
- Replacement strut mount(s) specific to vehicle (get OE or quality aftermarket). If front, get mounts with bearings; re-use is not recommended.
- Spring compressors (two matched compressors that clamp opposite sides of the spring).
- Floor jack and rated jack stands.
- Socket set, combination wrenches (including ratchet breaker and long handles).
- Torque wrench (capable of vehicle torque ranges).
- Penetrating oil, wire brush.
- Pry bar, hammer, punch (for stubborn bolts).
- Screwdrivers, pliers, zip ties.
- Marker/paint for alignment reference marks (optional).
- Socket for strut top nut (sometimes needs holding of strut shaft with hex or special tool).
- Rubber mallet.
- Gloves, eye protection.
- Shop manual or access to torque specs and alignment specs for your vehicle.
- New nuts/bolts if manufacturer recommends replacement.

Step‑by‑step procedure (generic MacPherson strut — follow vehicle specifics)
Note: I’ll describe the safe order: loosen lugs, lift, remove wheel, then work. Always follow vehicle manual notes for exact bolt locations and torque values.

1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, set parking brake.
- Slightly loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground (don’t remove).
- Raise front corner with floor jack and support with jack stands under the jacking points. Remove wheel.

2) Access the strut top
- Open hood and locate the strut tower. There will be three or two nuts on the top of the strut mount in the engine bay. Don’t remove yet.
- Under the wheel well, support the lower control arm/knuckle with a jack or stand so it doesn’t drop abruptly when the strut is unbolted.

3) Remove attachments from strut
- Remove brake caliper or at least unbolt it and hang it with wire so it doesn’t strain the brake hose. Do not disconnect brake lines unless necessary.
- Disconnect sway bar end link from the strut if attached.
- Remove any brake hose or ABS sensor bracket fasteners attached to the strut.
- If the vehicle has a stabilizer link through the strut top, unbolt it.

4) Separate the strut from the knuckle
- With the lower support jack holding the knuckle, remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts. On some cars you may need to remove the steering tie rod end first — follow your vehicle’s layout.
- Use penetrating oil if bolts are seized. Be ready to use a breaker bar. Mark the strut/knuckle position if you want a reference for reassembly tightness/position.

5) Remove the whole strut assembly
- With lower bolts out and attachments disconnected, the strut assembly can be lowered and removed from the vehicle. Before fully removing the assembly, go back to the top and remove the top strut nuts in the engine bay, then remove the assembly.

6) Compress the coil spring (critical safety step)
- Secure the strut assembly in a bench vise with rubber protection or lay it on a workbench so it won’t roll.
- Fit two spring compressors opposite each other on the coils, near the spring ends and well away from the top and bottom seats. Tighten them evenly, alternating sides several turns at a time so the spring compresses evenly.
- Compress until there is no load on the top nut — the strut shaft is free to turn and the top mount can be removed. The spring should be compressed enough so top mount can come off, but not overly compressed.

7) Disassemble the strut top
- Remove the top nut on the strut shaft (usually reverse thread? Usually normal — check car). Hold the strut shaft with the appropriate tool or a hex in the shaft if provided; do not allow the shaft to spin in the bearing.
- Remove top mount — you’ll see the old rubber mount, possibly a bearing and spring seat. Note the order and orientation of parts. Take photos or mark with paint.
- Remove dust boot and bump stop if they will be replaced or if obstructing.

8) Replace the mount and inspect parts
- Clean the strut shaft and spring seats. Inspect the spring for cracks, the strut shaft for pitting or scoring, the dust boot and bump stop for damage. Replace any worn parts; often replacing mount and dust boot together is best.
- Fit the new mount and bearing in the correct orientation. If the new mount includes a new spring seat or isolator, install per instructions (rubber lip toward the spring, bearing toward the mount plate on front units).
- Replace any washers or spacers in the correct order exactly as removed. If new hardware is supplied, use it.

9) Reassemble and torque top nut
- With the spring still compressed, put the strut shaft through the new mount and hand‑thread the top nut.
- Tighten to the manufacturer’s torque spec while the spring is compressed. If the service manual says to preload the bearing or use a specific tightening procedure do that.
- After the top nut is torqued, slowly and evenly release the spring compressors, alternating sides until the spring seats fully and the assembly is stable and quiet.

10) Reinstall strut assembly in vehicle
- Position the strut assembly into the strut tower and loosely fit the top nuts to hold it.
- Reattach the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and torque to spec. Then torque the top mount nuts to spec per the sequence in your manual.
- Reconnect sway bar link, brake hose brackets, ABS sensor, and reattach caliper(s). Ensure hoses/wiring are not twisted or pinched.

11) Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, final torques
- Put wheel back on, hand‑thread lugs, lower vehicle to the ground, torque wheel lugs to spec in a star pattern.
- With vehicle on ground, torque all strut bolts and top nuts to final specs in the proper sequence in the service manual.

12) Alignment
- A professional wheel alignment is required after replacing any strut or allowed camber influencing bolts. Do not drive at speed without alignment.

What can go wrong — failure modes and hazards
- Spring compressor slips or fails: the spring can violently release energy — serious injury or death. Always use rated two‑leg compressors and check for slippage during use.
- Incorrect ordering/orientation of bearings and mounts: can cause noise, steering binding, premature wear.
- Not supporting the knuckle/control arm: when bolts removed, the hub can fall, damaging brake lines or CV joints.
- Overlooked rusted bolts: forcing can break studs or bolts (strut studs, knuckle bolts). Broken studs often require extra time, drilling, or replacement.
- Not torquing to spec: under‑torqued fasteners can loosen; over‑torqued studs can stretch or break.
- Damaged strut shaft: pitting or scoring on the shaft will ruin the seal and the strut; replace the strut cartridge rather than just the mount if shaft is damaged or strut leaking.
- Wrong parts: installing non‑bearing mounts on front steering struts (or mixing up left/right) will affect steering.
- Alignment drift: steering off-center, uneven tire wear, pulling — fix with alignment.
- If the bearing is seized, the steering can be stiff, and the bearing surface can wear the mount quickly.

Practical tips, analogies, and common sense
- Think of the spring as a tightly wound Slinky with stored energy — the compressor keeps it “asleep.” If the compressor fails, the Slinky will uncoil violently.
- The mount is like the pillow and swivel under a garden swing: the pillow soaks up bumps, the swivel lets the swing rotate. If the pillow is smashed or the swivel rusted, the swing is noisy and hard to turn.
- Always replace both sides if one is badly worn on front axle — they tend to wear similarly and mismatched mounts change handling.
- If the strut itself leaks oil or the ride is very soft/bouncy, replace the entire strut cartridge or assembly at the same time; a new mount on a dead strut is a short‑term fix.
- Keep a notebook or phone photos of the parts you remove so you can reassemble in the same order.

Final checklist before driving
- All fasteners torqued to manufacturer spec.
- No contact between brake hoses/wiring and suspension parts.
- Wheels torqued.
- Spring compressors removed and spring seated correctly.
- Test drive gently at low speed to confirm there are no unusual noises or steering pull; then schedule an alignment.

Note on vehicle specifics (Perkins 3.152)
- The above procedure is for a generic MacPherson strut assembly. If your vehicle that contains a Perkins 3.152 engine uses non‑standard strut mount locations (engine bay clearance, special heat shields, or different top nut access), consult the vehicle’s factory service manual for exact top‑nut access, torque figures, and special tools. Obtain the correct strut‑mount part number for your vehicle and year.

You now have the full how and why plus safety and failure modes. Follow the steps carefully, use proper tools, and get alignment after assembly.
rteeqp73

Machining and Rebuilding A 152 Cubic Inch Perkins Diesel Engine In Under 20 Mins? Okay, maybe it took more than 20 minutes... But I can show you in less than 20 minutes! This quick video shows the machine work ...

PERKINS 3.152 ENGINE OLD FORGE POWER EQUIPMENT, INC. 5 BROOKSIDE ROAD CARBONDALE PA 18407 570-471-3069 WWW.

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