- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect from dust, brake fluid, and metal shards.
- Work on a flat, solid surface; do not jack cars on soft ground.
- Use wheel chocks on the opposite axle and set the parking brake (leave the wheel you’re working on off the brake).
- Never rely on the jack alone — always support the vehicle with properly rated jack stands.
- If brake fluid spills on paint, wash immediately; brake dust may contain asbestos on very old cars — avoid blowing it into the air.

- Tools (detailed descriptions and how to use each)
- Hydraulic floor jack (or scissor jack if budget): metal lifting tool with a saddle that raises the car. Use to lift the corner of the car. Position under the manufacturer-recommended jacking point, pump handle until wheel clears the ground. Always place jack stands under the car after lifting; do not work supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands: adjustable metal stands rated by weight. After lifting, set stands under pinch weld or lift point, lower the car onto them. Ensure they’re stable before removing the jack.
- Wheel chocks: rubber or wedge blocks. Put behind tyres on ground to prevent rolling.
- Lug wrench or breaker bar with appropriate socket (usually 17–21 mm depending on vehicle): used to loosen/tighten wheel lug nuts. Use breaker bar for initial loosening with the car on the ground to avoid wheel spin; re-tighten with torque wrench after lowering.
- Torque wrench: a tool that clicks at a preset torque. Use to tighten lug nuts and caliper/bolt fasteners to factory torque spec. Set to specified torque, tighten until it clicks.
- Socket set and ratchet (metric): used to remove caliper bracket bolts, caliper guide pins, and sometimes the caliper itself. Use correct socket size; sliding extensions can help reach tight areas.
- Breaker bar: long, non-ratcheting bar for breaking loose very tight fasteners. Use with socket for stubborn bolts.
- Hex/Allen key or Torx bits (if applicable): some caliper bolts use hex/allen or Torx heads; have common sizes on hand to avoid rounding heads.
- C-clamp or piston retraction tool / disc brake caliper wind-back tool: compresses the caliper piston back into the caliper bore so new (thicker) pads fit. Place over outer pad and turn/squeeze slowly and evenly until piston is fully retracted. A dedicated wind-back tool is better for some vehicles where the piston must be rotated while pushed in.
- Flat-blade screwdriver / pry bar: to pry off pads or separate caliper from bracket if slightly stuck. Use carefully to avoid damage.
- Bungee cord / zip ties / hanger: to hang the caliper off the suspension spring/strut so it isn’t hanging by the brake hose.
- Wire brush / brass brush: cleans rust and debris from caliper bracket and contact points so pads sit properly.
- Brake cleaner (aerosol): degreases rotor and caliper parts; spray and let evaporate — don’t breathe the fumes.
- Brake grease / high-temperature anti-squeal lubricant: thin paste applied to pad backing contact points and slide pins to prevent noise and ensure smooth movement. Do not get on pad friction surface or rotor.
- Gloves (nitrile or mechanic) and shop rags: protect hands, wipe fluid and dirt.
- Plastic scraper / gasket scraper (optional): removes stubborn old grease or gasket material.
- Digital caliper or micrometer (optional but recommended): measures rotor thickness to check if rotor is within minimum spec.
- Brake fluid and small clear hose + catch bottle or a one-man bleeder (optional): only needed if you open hydraulic lines or need to bleed air; use DOT fluid specified by Toyota.
- Anti-seize compound (optional): thin smear on hub face to prevent rotor rust sticking.
- Impact wrench (optional): speeds wheel removal but not necessary; do not use to torque wheels final — use torque wrench.

- Parts you may need (what, why, and when)
- Brake pads (front/rear as needed): friction material that wears — always replace worn pads. Replace in axle pairs (both left and right).
- Brake rotors (discs): replace or resurface if scored, warped (vibration while braking), or below minimum thickness stamped on rotor. Use micrometer to measure thickness; replace if below manufacturer min.
- Caliper slide pin boots and guide pins (repair kit): if pins are corroded/seized, caliper won’t slide and pads wear unevenly — replace boots/pins and lubricate.
- Anti-rattle clips/hardware kit: replace worn clips that hold pads snug; new hardware ensures correct pad positioning and reduces noise.
- Brake pad wear sensors (if equipped): some cars have electrical sensors that need replacing when pads are changed.
- Caliper rebuild or replacement (if leaking or piston seized): if caliper leaks brake fluid or piston won’t retract, replace or rebuild caliper to ensure safe braking.
- Brake fluid (if bleeding or fluid low): replace/bleed if you open the hydraulic system or if fluid is contaminated.
- Rotary/abrasive tool (only if resurfacing rotors): for professionals — do not attempt unless you know machining.

- Quick preliminary checks (before starting)
- Inspect pad thickness through caliper window: if less than 3–4 mm remaining or uneven, replace.
- Inspect rotor for deep grooves, blue discoloration (overheat), visible warping, or thickness below minimum.
- Check for brake fluid leaks at caliper, hose, and master cylinder.

- Step-by-step brake pad replacement (disc brakes) — follow every bullet in order
- Prepare vehicle: block wheels, loosen lug nuts slightly while car is on ground using lug wrench.
- Lift and secure: jack the corner, place jack stands, remove wheel using socket and remove lug nuts/ wheel.
- Expose caliper: locate the caliper bolted to the bracket. Use appropriate socket/hex to remove caliper guide bolts. Keep removed bolts in a clean spot.
- Hang caliper: use bungee cord/zip tie to suspend caliper from the suspension spring/strut — do not let it hang on the brake hose.
- Remove old pads and hardware: pull out pads from bracket; note pad orientation and any shims/clips. Remove anti-rattle clips if replacing hardware.
- Inspect caliper and bracket: check slide pins move freely. Clean bracket contact surfaces with wire brush and brake cleaner.
- Retract piston: place old outer pad against piston and use C-clamp or piston tool to slowly compress piston fully back into caliper. If caliper has a screw-in type piston, use the correct wind-back tool to rotate while pushing. Watch brake fluid reservoir level as you compress piston; if it’s full, remove some fluid with a syringe to prevent overflow.
- Replace hardware and pads: install new anti-rattle clips/hardware into bracket. Apply small amount of brake grease to pad contact points and slide pins (do not grease friction surfaces). Insert new pads in correct orientation.
- Refit caliper: place caliper back over pads and bracket, align, and thread guide bolts. Clean threads and apply anti-seize or thread locker only if specified by manual. Tighten guide bolts snug, then torque to manufacturer spec with torque wrench.
- Reinstall wheel: mount wheel, thread lug nuts by hand, lower car to ground, then torque lug nuts in a star pattern to factory spec using torque wrench.
- Check fluid and bleeds: top up brake fluid reservoir if level dropped. If you opened hydraulic lines or had air symptoms (spongy pedal), bleed brakes per factory sequence or use one-man bleeder.
- Final checks: pump brake pedal several times with engine off until firm to seat pads against rotor. Check for leaks, unusual noises, or dragging wheel. Re-check lug nut torque after a short drive.

- How to use common tools during the job (short reminders)
- Floor jack: place under jacking point, pump carefully. Don’t slide jack under an unstable or slanted vehicle.
- Jack stand: raise stand to fit, then slowly lower vehicle onto it; rock the car gently to ensure stable support.
- Socket and ratchet: select exact size socket, push to engage, turn counterclockwise to loosen. Use breaker bar for stuck bolts.
- Torque wrench: set desired torque, tighten until click. Do not use torque wrench like a breaker bar.
- C-clamp: place screw on outside of caliper piston pressing against pad, turn screw slowly until piston seats. Do not force if something binds — check for seized piston.
- Wire brush and brake cleaner: brush loose rust and dirt then spray cleaner; allow to evaporate before reassembly.

- Signs you must replace rotors or caliper (when pads alone are not enough)
- Rotor thickness below stamped minimum or measured min with caliper: replace rotor.
- Deep scoring (>0.1–0.2 mm) or visible grooving into rotor face: replace or machine if allowed.
- Pulsation through steering or brake pedal (warped rotor): replace or machine if within spec.
- Caliper leak, stuck piston, or seized slide pins: rebuild or replace caliper to ensure proper function.
- Excessive corrosion, cracked rotor, or heat spots: replace.

- Bedding-in (breaking new pads in)
- After installation, perform controlled stops from moderate speeds: do 8–10 moderate stops from ~30–40 mph without coming to a full stop suddenly, allow cool intervals, then 2–3 harder stops from lower speeds. Follow pad manufacturer instructions for best results.
- Avoid heavy braking for the first 100–200 miles to let material seat and transfer proper layer to rotor.

- Final safety and test
- Verify no brake fluid leaks, wheel bolts torqued, and caliper hardware installed.
- Test-drive at low speed in a safe area; confirm pedal feel, braking performance, and no unusual noises or pulling.
- Re-check lug nut torque after first 50–100 miles.

- Common extras you may need to buy (why)
- Full hardware kit (clips, shims): prevents noise and ensures correct pad fit.
- New rotors if worn/warped: necessary for proper contact and pedal feel.
- Caliper rebuild kit or new caliper if leaking/seized: required for safe braking.
- Brake fluid if low or contaminated: maintain hydraulic performance and prevent air.
- Piston wind-back tool kit if your caliper requires rotation: prevents damage to piston sealing surfaces.

- Final note
- If any step feels uncertain (seized bolts, leaking caliper, structural rust), stop and consider a professional mechanic. Brakes are critical for safety.
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