1) What the timing belt does (theory)
- The timing belt synchronizes crankshaft rotation with camshaft rotation so valves open/close exactly when pistons reach top/bottom of strokes. That synchronization controls valve timing for intake/exhaust and ignition timing (via cam phasing).
- If the belt slips, stretches, loses teeth, or breaks, the cam(s) and crank become unsynchronized → misfires, loss of power, poor economy, and on an interference engine valve-to-piston contact can occur (bent valves, damaged pistons).
- Associated parts (tensioner, idlers, water pump driven by the same belt, seals) keep belt alignment, tension and a clean contact surface. Their failure is a common root cause of belt failure.

2) Symptoms that indicate the belt or its system is at fault (theory)
- Visible cracking, glazing, missing teeth, frayed edges → mechanical wear.
- Belt slack or vibration → failed tensioner or worn idler bearings.
- Grinding/rumbling from idlers/tensioner → bearing failure.
- Coolant leak from water pump that contaminates belt → belt degradation and slipping.
- Engine running rough or no-start after sudden belt failure → loss of cam/crank phase; on interference engines this often means internal engine damage.

3) Ordered procedure (conceptual steps) with theory at each stage
Note: this is conceptual order and the “why” at each point. Follow factory service manual for vehicle‑specific fasteners, clearances, torque values and any special locking tools.

1. Preparation and safety
- Disconnect battery, support vehicle, drain coolant if you will remove the water pump.
- Theory: removes electrical hazard, provides safe access, prevents spillage when replacing coolant-driven parts.

2. Gain access
- Remove accessory belts, engine covers, crank pulley, and timing cover(s) to expose cam sprockets, crank sprocket, tensioner and idlers.
- Theory: exposes the timing system so you can see marks and replace components.

3. Set engine to the known reference (TDC on No.1 compression stroke)
- Rotate the crank by hand to the top dead center (TDC) mark for cylinder 1 on the crank pulley and align camshaft marks. Confirm cam lobes for cylinder 1 are on the correct compression-stroke orientation (not exhaust).
- Theory: establishes a reference phase so when you remove and refit the belt you can re-establish the exact relative positions of crank and cam(s). This avoids piston/valve interference and ensures valve timing is restored.

4. Lock or steady the cam(s) and crank if required
- Use manufacturer-specified locking pins/tools or carefully hold positions to prevent rotation while the belt is off.
- Theory: prevents even slight rotation that would change valve positions relative to pistons while components are exposed and vulnerable.

5. Remove old belt and inspect parts
- Release the tensioner, remove the belt, and inspect cam/crank sprockets, idler pulleys, tensioner, and water pump. Look for wear, bearing play, scoring, coolant or oil contamination, and damaged teeth.
- Theory: diagnosis — you’re identifying which component(s) failed and caused the belt problem. A worn tensioner or seized idler allows belt slip; a leaking water pump contaminates and weakens the belt.

6. Replace wear parts (belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, seals as needed)
- Fit new idlers/tensioner (and water pump if driven by that belt). Replace cam/crank seals if leaking oil.
- Theory: new components restore correct support, alignment and preload. Tensioner (spring or hydraulic) provides constant preload so the belt resists tooth skip and dampens transient loads; idlers keep the belt on its intended path and reduce lateral forces; a new water pump removes coolant leak risk.

7. Install the new belt with marks aligned
- Place the belt on the sprockets following the marked reference positions. Keep the slack on the non-tensioned span when you bring the belt onto the sprockets. Fit belt so timing marks on sprockets/crank align to TDC reference.
- Theory: restoring exact phasing of cam(s) to crank reproduces the factory valve timing profile. Controlling slack while seating the belt prevents accidental cam rotation and mis-phasing.

8. Set belt tension correctly
- Pre-tension per the service method for your engine (deflection method or tension gauge) and release/adjust the automatic tensioner. Confirm tensioner is seated and any locking pins removed.
- Theory: correct tension prevents tooth skipping under load, minimizes bearing loads on idlers, and allows the tensioner to absorb transient forces. Too loose → skip; too tight → premature bearing/belt wear.

9. Double-check: rotate the engine by hand 2–3 revolutions and re-check timing marks
- With the new belt installed and tension set, rotate the crank by hand through several revolutions and realign marks. Listen and feel for interference or unusual resistance. Recheck tension and marks again.
- Theory: confirms that the system runs freely and that the timing phasing holds under dynamic conditions; rotating forces can reveal improper installation or hidden interference.

10. Reassembly and final checks
- Refit timing cover, crank pulley, accessory belts, refill coolant if disturbed, reconnect battery. Start engine and check for leaks, unusual noises, correct idle and smooth running. Verify no diagnostic trouble codes or misfires.
- Theory: ensures all ancillary systems are restored and the engine runs with correct valve timing and no secondary faults.

4) How the repair fixes the fault (mapping failure → fix)
- Worn or cracked belt: replacement restores proper tooth engagement with sprockets so cam/crank phase is held.
- Stretched belt or slack from weak tensioner: replacing belt plus new tensioner restores preload so the belt cannot skip under load.
- Bad idler bearings: new idlers remove lateral movement and roughness that cause belt deviation and accelerated wear.
- Water pump leak contaminating belt: replacing water pump removes coolant source and prevents belt degradation and premature failure.
- Oil leaks onto belt (from cam/crank seals): replacing seals prevents oil contamination that softens and degrades belt material.
- If belt already failed and valves hit pistons: replacing the belt alone does not fix bent valves or damaged pistons — internal engine repair is required.

5) Practical cautions (brief)
- Confirm whether the 2Z variant in the vehicle is interference-type; if so, be extra cautious when setting TDC and rotating the engine.
- Use factory locking tools, torque specs and tensioning procedure — small missteps cause big damage.
- After replacement, always rotate engine by hand before starting.

End.
rteeqp73

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