Tools & supplies
- Correct brake fluid (check vehicle placard / service manual; most Toyota systems use DOT 3 or DOT 4). Buy 2 L to be safe.
- Pressure-type brake bleeder (pressure bleeder with master-cap adapter) OR handheld vacuum bleeder OR clear hose + 250–500 ml catch bottle with one-way valve + 8 mm / 10 mm wrench for bleeder nipples (size varies).
- Clean turkey baster or fluid-transfer pump (to remove old fluid from reservoir).
- Disposable gloves, safety glasses.
- Brake-clean spray, rags, small brush.
- Jack stands / wheel chocks (if wheels removed), vehicle jack (if needed).
- Torque wrench (for caliper/bleeder caps if required).
- Small clear tubing to fit bleeder nipple, container for used fluid.
- Container for disposal of used fluid.
- Optional: scan tool capable of cycling ABS pump/valves (required on ABS-equipped systems to fully purge air).

Safety precautions
- Work on level ground, engine off, parking brake engaged, wheels chocked.
- Brake fluid is corrosive to paint — immediately wipe any spilled fluid and rinse with water. Wear gloves and eye protection.
- Never mix DOT fluid types (e.g., DOT 3 vs DOT 5 silicone). Use the type specified.
- Do not let the master cylinder reservoir run dry during bleeding — it will introduce air into the system.
- Dispose of old fluid as hazardous waste per local regulations.

Overview of procedure (what you are doing)
- Replace old fluid in the reservoir and purge lines at each wheel until fresh, clear fluid with no air bubbles is coming out. Start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work toward the closest. If ABS is present, exercise ABS pump/valves during bleeding so air trapped in the ABS module is removed.

Step-by-step — preparation
1. Identify correct fluid and capacity; remove cap from master-cylinder reservoir and clean around it.
2. Remove as much old fluid from reservoir as possible with turkey baster. Refill to MAX with new fluid. Keep the cap loosely on (or install pressure-bleeder cap if using a pressure bleeder).
3. Jack and support vehicle if you need easier access to bleeders or to remove wheels; chock wheels.
4. Locate bleeder nipples at each caliper/wheel cylinder and fit clear tubing to them, routing into catch bottle.

Bleeding sequence
- Determine which wheel is farthest from master cylinder and work toward the closest. Typical sequence for many front-engine vehicles: rear passenger -> rear driver -> front passenger -> front driver. If unsure, follow vehicle manual; the “farthest to nearest” rule is key.

Method A — Using a pressure bleeder (recommended for one-person accurate full flush)
1. Fit the pressure-bleeder adapter to the master cylinder reservoir and fill the bleeder bottle with fresh fluid to the indicated level.
2. Pressurize bleeder to about 15–20 psi (check bleeder spec; do not exceed 25 psi).
3. Starting at the farthest wheel, loosen the bleeder nipple (use wrench) and open it about 1/4–1/2 turn. Fluid will flow into the catch bottle. Let it run until you see clear fluid with no bubbles.
4. Tighten the bleeder nipple while fluid is flowing or immediately after flow stops (closing while under pressure helps prevent air getting back in). Repeat for each wheel in sequence.
5. Keep reservoir topped up during entire process. Never let it drop near the bottom.
6. After all wheels flushed and fluid runs clear, release bleeder pressure, reinstall reservoir cap, and check pedal firmness.

How the pressure bleeder is used
- The bleeder pressurizes the master-cylinder reservoir so fresh fluid is forced through the system and old fluid + air are pushed out at the wheel bleeders. It eliminates the need for a helper and provides continuous flow; always monitor reservoir level and avoid over-pressurizing.

Method B — Using a handheld vacuum bleeder
1. Attach vacuum pump hose to bleeder nipple with clear tubing and open nipple about 1/4 turn.
2. Pump vacuum while an assistant slowly presses the brake pedal (or leave pedal untouched if pumping draws fluid steadily). Continue until clear fluid with no bubbles appears.
3. Close the bleeder nipple before releasing vacuum. Keep reservoir topped up.

How the vacuum bleeder is used
- A vacuum pump draws fluid and air out of the wheel cylinder/caliper through the bleeder. It’s convenient for one person and prevents reservoir collapse because fluid flow is outward.

Method C — Manual two-person (pedal) method
1. Helper pumps the brake pedal 3–5 times and then holds it to the floor.
2. Open bleeder nipple; fluid and air will escape. Close nipple before helper releases the pedal.
3. Repeat until clear fluid with no bubbles appears. Keep reservoir topped up.
4. This is slower and riskier (helpers must be steady) — avoid if ABS bleeding is required without a scan tool.

ABS module — additional steps (if ABS fitted)
- Air can be trapped inside the ABS pump/valves; a simple pedal bleed may not purge it. Use a scan tool with ABS actuate/bleed function to run the ABS pump and solenoids while bleeding each wheel. Procedure:
- With scan tool, cycle ABS pump/valves per the tool instructions while wheel bleeders are open in sequence.
- After cycling, re-bleed each wheel until no air appears.
- If no scan tool, some technicians alternate repeated full pedal pumps (to activate ABS on some vehicles) then repeat wheel bleeding, but this is not guaranteed.

Finishing steps and checks
1. After all wheels bled and reservoir topped to MAX, tighten bleeder nipples to spec (hand tight + 1/4 turn typical) and reinstall dust caps.
2. Clean all spilled fluid, re-check reservoir level, and reinstall cap.
3. With vehicle still supported, press the brake pedal — it should feel firm and hold under pressure. If soft/spongy, repeat bleeding.
4. Lower vehicle, road test at low speed in a safe area to confirm braking performance.
5. Re-check bleeder nipples and reservoir for leaks and top up if needed after test drive.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Letting the reservoir run dry: always top up; introduction of air means repeating the whole procedure.
- Mixing fluid types: only use DOT fluid specified; mixing DOT 3/4 is usually tolerated (both are glycol-based) but DOT 5 (silicone) must never be mixed with glycol-based fluids.
- Over-pressurizing pressure bleeder: stay within 15–25 psi to avoid damaging seals or pushing fluid past calipers.
- Not removing air from ABS module: will leave a spongy pedal. Use a scan tool to cycle ABS when needed.
- Damaging bleeder screws: use correct wrench size and don’t round off; replace seized/damaged bleeders.
- Spilling fluid on painted surfaces: brake fluid damages paint; wipe spills immediately and rinse with water.
- Re-using very old fluid: use new sealed bottles. Old fluid absorbs moisture — that’s why flush.
- Not properly disposing of old fluid: it’s hazardous waste — take to proper disposal facility.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Brake fluid (the specified DOT type) — full flush typically 1–2 L depending on vehicle.
- Bleeder screws (if seized, leaking or rounded).
- Master cylinder reservoir cap gasket if deteriorated.
- Copper crush washers for banjo bolts (only if you remove hoses/lines).
- If pedal remains soft after correct bleeding, master cylinder, ABS unit, or flexible hoses may need inspection/replacement.

Disposal
- Collect used fluid and dispose of it at a hazardous-waste or auto-shop disposal facility. Do not pour down drains.

Quick troubleshooting
- Pedal still soft after full bleed: re-bleed entire system; cycle ABS with scan tool; inspect master cylinder for internal bypass; check for leaks.
- Bubbles that never stop: likely reservoir sucking in air (leak at cap seal) or incorrect bleeder order; re-check seals and repeat in correct order.

That’s the complete, practical brake-fluid flush procedure. Follow vehicle-specific service manual when available and use a scan tool for ABS-equipped systems for reliable results.
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