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Toyota 1HZ 1PZ 1HD-T engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & supplies
- New air filter element(s) matched to the engine/year (check OEM or reliable aftermarket for 1HZ / 1PZ / 1HD‑T). Some models use an inner + outer element; replace all required elements.
- Screwdrivers (flat & Phillips)
- Socket set and ratchet (common sizes 8, 10, 12 mm)
- 1/4" or 3/8" extension as needed
- Pliers (for hose clamps)
- Small pick or thin flat blade (for seals, clips)
- Clean shop rag(s)
- Soft-bristle brush
- Vacuum or low-pressure compressed air (<30 psi) for housing cleanout (optional)
- Latex or nitrile gloves, safety glasses
- Replacement hose clamps or housing clips if existing ones are damaged
- Light spray cleaner (intake-safe) only if needed for housing (do not soak paper element)

Safety & preparatory precautions
- Park on level ground, engine off, key removed. Allow engine to cool.
- Set parking brake. Chock wheels if on slight grade.
- Wear eye protection and gloves.
- Do not start engine with the airbox open/removed — unfiltered air can damage the engine.
- Avoid high-pressure compressed air on paper elements — it will damage the media.

Step-by-step procedure
1) Locate the air cleaner assembly
- On Land Cruisers with 1HZ/1PZ/1HD‑T the air cleaner is a round (or cylindrical) canister on the inner fender or behind the headlight area with a snorkel hose to the front. Identify lid clips/bolts and the intake hose to the turbo / throttle body.

2) Remove intake snorkel hose clamp(s)
- Use a screwdriver or socket to loosen the hose clamp(s) on the snorkel/snorter where it joins the airbox. For turbo models, also check the clamp at the turbo inlet. Loosen until hose can be moved by hand. Use pliers for spring clamps.

3) Release housing fasteners and remove lid
- Undo the retaining clips (flip open) or remove the bolts (usually 8–12 mm). Use a screwdriver/socket as required. Lift the lid straight off—if it sticks, gently pry at the lip with a flat screwdriver, taking care not to damage the gasket.

4) Remove the old element(s)
- Pull the filter element(s) straight up and out. If there is an inner element, remove it too. Note orientation so the new one goes in the same way (seal face to the housing).

5) Inspect and clean the housing
- Look inside for leaves, heavy dust, oil, or water. Use a shop vacuum or low-pressure compressed air to remove debris. Wipe the inside with a clean rag. Use a soft brush to free stuck dirt. If water is present, find and correct the source (snorkel seal damage, splash intrusion).
- Inspect the lid seal / rubber gasket for cracks or deformation. Replace if damaged.

6) Inspect hoses, snorkel and clamps
- Check the snorkel hose and intake boots for cracks, holes or collapsed sections. Replace if damaged. Replace any rusty or weak clamps.

7) Fit the new filter element(s)
- Insert the new element(s) in the same orientation as removed. Seat the bottom of the filter fully into the housing; ensure the top mating surface and gasket are flush, with the element’s rubber lip sealed evenly around the perimeter. For two-piece elements ensure inner element fits snugly inside outer.

8) Reinstall the lid and secure fasteners
- Lower the lid straight down to avoid displacing the element. Engage clips or fasten bolts. Tighten bolts or clips until snug — do not over‑torque plastic parts; they should be hand‑tight to firm. If bolts have torque specs in the shop manual use those numbers.

9) Reconnect snorkel and clamps
- Seat the snorkel/hose correctly on the airbox spigot and tighten the hose clamp until firm. For worm-gear clamps tighten until snug — do not crush rubber. For spring clamps squeeze and rotate into place.

10) Final checks
- Verify all clamps and clips are secure. Check around the turbo inlet or intake flange for leaks. Make sure no tools or rags are left in the engine bay. Start engine and listen briefly for intake leaks (whistles or sucking noises). Re‑inspect after a short run.

How the tools are used (practical tips)
- Screwdriver: loosen/tighten worm‑drive clamps and pry open plastic clips carefully.
- Socket & ratchet: remove hex bolts that hold the housing lid or support bracket. Use the correct socket size to avoid rounding bolts.
- Pliers: open/close spring clamps; hold hose in place while you push on the snorkel.
- Vacuum/low‑pressure air: remove debris from the housing — blow from the dirty side out at low pressure if absolutely necessary. Never use high‑pressure air on the paper element (it will tear the media and reduce filter efficiency).

Replacement parts required
- Primary air filter element (OEM or equivalent). Some units require both primary and secondary elements—replace both if present.
- Rubber lid gasket or O‑ring if cracked or deformed.
- Replacement hose clamps or housing clips if corroded/damaged.
- Pre‑cleaner foam or snorkel seal if present and degraded.

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Reusing a damaged filter: do not reinstall a torn/soaked element.
- Using high‑pressure air to clean paper elements — this damages the media.
- Installing the filter upside down or not seating it fully — causes unfiltered bypass.
- Over‑tightening plastic housing bolts/clips — will crack the housing.
- Ignoring cracked snorkel or intake hoses — leaks allow unfiltered air in.
- Starting engine with the airbox open or missing element — massive contamination risk.
- Forgetting to replace all elements on two‑element systems — reduces filtration.
- Damaging or contaminating air flow sensors (on models equipped with them) — do not touch the sensor vane or hot wire.

Disposal and maintenance interval
- Dispose of old filters per local regulations. Service interval: follow vehicle manual (typically every 10,000–30,000 km depending on environment). Shorten interval in dusty/off‑road conditions.

Done — changed air filter, sealed housing, checked hoses and clamps.
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