- Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Wear safety glasses, mechanic’s gloves, and sturdy footwear; avoid loose clothing.
- Work on a level surface, use wheel chocks, and never rely on a jack alone — always use rated jack stands.
- Transmission assemblies are heavy and awkward — use a transmission jack or professional lift/rental; dropping a transmission can cause severe injury and vehicle damage.
- Have a fire extinguisher and absorbent pads for fluid spills; use good ventilation if you’re cleaning parts with solvents.

- High-level overview of what a “transmission rebuild” generally involves (no step-by-step)
- Diagnose transmission symptoms to confirm internal failure vs external cause.
- Remove the transmission from the vehicle and separate supporting components (driveshaft, linkages, starter, crossmember, etc.).
- Fully disassemble the transmission onto a clean bench.
- Clean and inspect all parts, measure tolerances, and compare to factory specs.
- Replace worn/damaged components and all seals/gaskets, then reassemble to spec.
- Bench-check critical clearances and function where possible, reinstall, fill with correct fluid, and test-drive/verify.

- Essential documentation
- Toyota factory service manual (FSM) or a reputable aftermarket manual (Haynes/Chilton) specific to your Hilux year/engine/transmission.
- Why: provides torque values, disassembly/assembly sequences, tolerances, fluid type and capacity, and special tool lists. This is not optional — it’s fundamental.

- Tools you need (detailed descriptions, how they’re used, why required)
- Metric socket set (shallow and deep), ratchets (1/4", 3/8", 1/2") and extensions
- Used to remove bolts and nuts of various sizes; deep sockets for axle/nose bolts. A good set reduces rounding bolts.
- Torque wrench (click-type, 3/8" and 1/2" ranges)
- Ensures bolts are tightened to factory torque; critical for bellhousing, transmission-to-engine, and bearing preload tolerances.
- Quality combination wrench set (metric)
- For tight spaces where a socket can’t reach; open-end for quick turning, box-end for torque.
- Floor jack (rated for vehicle weight) and rated jack stands
- Jack raises the vehicle; stands support it safely. Stands must be rated above vehicle weight and placed on solid contact points.
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with adapter and straps (strongly recommended to rent)
- Supports and aligns the transmission during removal/installation; prevents it from dropping and lets you align input shaft to clutch/bellhousing.
- Screwdriver set (flat and Phillips), nut drivers
- For small fasteners, clips, and prying covers.
- Pliers: needle-nose, slip-joint, locking pliers (vise-grips)
- For snap rings, clips, hoses and holding parts.
- Snap ring (circlip) pliers (internal and external)
- Specifically sized pliers to remove/install snap rings without damaging grooves or rings.
- Pry bars and alignment bar (soft-tip recommended)
- To separate mating parts carefully; soft or wood blocks to prevent damage. Pry bars can deform surfaces if misused — use caution.
- Rubber mallet and ball-peen hammer
- For gentle persuasion; rubber mallet avoids starting burrs or distortions.
- Drain pan and containers for fluid
- To catch transmission fluid and store/measure drained fluid to check for contamination.
- Parts cleaner / brake cleaner and rags
- Degreasing for inspection — cleanliness is vital for reassembly and to avoid contamination.
- Seal puller and gasket scraper
- Remove old seals/gaskets cleanly without gouging the housing.
- Bearing puller / gear puller (various sizes) — often rented
- Required to remove bearings and gears pressed on shafts. Using improper tools will ruin parts and housings.
- Hydraulic press (bench press) — usually rented or used at a shop
- Needed to press bearings on/off shafts and install races squarely. Manual pounding risks damage.
- Bearing and seal drivers (radiused driver set)
- Install bearings and seals to correct depth without distortion.
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for backlash/runout)
- Measure gear backlash and shaft endplay to factory spec; essential for correct reassembly and to avoid premature failure.
- Micrometer and vernier calipers
- Measure shaft diameters, bearing journals, plate thicknesses against specs.
- Feeler gauges
- Measure clearances and shim stacks where applicable.
- Thread locker (medium strength), anti-seize paste
- For fastener security and to prevent galvanic seizure on reassembly where specified.
- Impact wrench (optional, useful)
- Speeds removal of stubborn bolts, but use torque wrench for final tightening.
- Torque-angle gauge (only if the manual specifies angle torquing)
- Some bolts require torque+angle; use as required by FSM.
- Labeling materials and small parts trays
- Keep fasteners and parts organized to avoid assembly errors.
- Shop manual + exploded parts diagrams and parts list (repeat importance)
- Essential for part numbers and correct component orientation/assembly sequence.

- Tools you will likely need to rent or have a shop do
- Hydraulic press (for bearings)
- Transmission jack
- Dial indicator and bearing pre-load tools
- Bearing pullers/pushers for large components
- These are required because press-fit bearings and precision checks cannot reliably be done with hand tools without risking damage.

- Common replacement parts during a rebuild and why they’re typically replaced
- Seals and gaskets (all)
- Why: old seals will leak after reassembly; gaskets are single-use. Replace all to prevent leaks.
- Bearings (input, output, planet bearings, mainshaft)
- Why: bearings wear and cause noise, play, and gear misalignment; leaving old bearings can ruin new gears.
- Synchronizers (manual transmission)
- Why: worn syncros cause grinding and poor shifts; often replaced to restore crisp shifting.
- Clutch pack friction plates and steel plates (automatic/clutch packs)
- Why: friction material wears; slipping or burned clutches require replacement.
- Bushings, thrust washers, shims
- Why: maintain correct clearances and axial play; worn items change alignment/backlash.
- Sun/planet gears, planetary carriers (automatics) or main gears (manuals) if worn or scored
- Why: gear damage causes noise, slipping, and catastrophic failure if left.
- Valve body parts & solenoids (automatic)
- Why: sticking valves or faulty solenoids cause shifting faults; valve body inspection/cleaning and sometimes replacement is needed.
- Pump (automatic transmission oil pump)
- Why: pressure loss from a worn pump causes slipping and overheating.
- Torque converter (automatic)
- Why: damaged or contaminated torque converters cause shudder, slipping, and metal contamination.
- Filters and fluid (automatic)
- Why: replace filter and all fluid; fluid contamination shows wear and keeps particles from circulating.
- Shift forks, detent springs, selector components (manuals)
- Why: bending or wear leads to mis-shifts and internal damage.
- Speed sensors/seals/retainers as needed
- Why: external leaks and sensor failures often coincide with internal work.
- Recommendation: replace seals, gaskets, and all fluid regardless; replace bearings, synchros, clutches/packs, and any parts outside factory tolerance.

- How to tell parts need replacement (inspection cues)
- Visual: scoring, pitting, discoloration (burnt clutches), metal shavings in fluid/pan.
- Dimensional: measurements out of spec (use micrometer/calipers/feeler gauges).
- Play/noise: excessive endplay/backlash, rough bearings when spun by hand.
- Functional: valve body stuck valves or solenoids failing electrical tests.

- Fluids and consumables
- Use the exact Toyota-specified transmission fluid (type and capacity from FSM). Wrong fluid causes poor lubrication, friction issues, and damage.
- Replace any O-rings and small external seals with OEM parts when possible.

- When to not rebuild (recommendations for a beginner)
- If you lack a transmission jack, hydraulic press access, dial indicator, and a service manual, a full rebuild is risky.
- If you cannot measure and set tolerances to factory specs, part replacement may not fix the problem and you risk re-installing a failing unit.
- Consider replacing the unit with a remanufactured/rebuilt transmission or using a professional transmission shop if you’re a complete beginner.

- Where to get parts and tools
- Buy OEM or high-quality aftermarket internal kits (bearing/seal kits, synchro kits, valve body kits).
- Rent presses and transmission jacks from tool rental centers or use a local shop for pressing and precision measurements.
- Use Toyota dealers for OEM seals/gaskets and the FSM for part numbers.

- Final practical advice (brief, direct)
- A transmission rebuild is a complex, precision task: if you’re a complete beginner, plan to start by learning on smaller jobs, study the FSM, and rent/borrow the specialized tools and a clean bench area.
- For safety and reliability, strongly consider either a professional rebuild or a remanufactured replacement unless you have mechanical experience and access to the required precision tools and measurements.

- If you decide to proceed anyway (firm caution)
- Obtain the Toyota FSM for your exact Hilux model/year, rent a transmission jack and press, and expect to replace seals, bearings, clutch packs/synchros, and possibly major internal components based on inspection.
- Expect several days of careful bench work, measurement, and verification; do not guess at clearances or torque values.

- Final note
- This is a high‑risk, high-precision repair. For safety and long-term reliability, use the factory manual, proper tools, and consider professional work if any specialized tool or measurement step is beyond your current capability.
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