- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and sturdy shoes.
- Work on a flat, level surface and keep bystanders clear.
- Use quality jack stands; never rely on a hydraulic jack alone to support the vehicle.
- Chock wheels that remain on the ground.
- If any mount or bolt looks welded or structurally compromised, stop and get professional help.

- Tools you need (basic set for a beginner) and how to use each
- Socket set (metric sockets, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive)
- Description: sockets + ratchet handle for removing nuts/bolts.
- Use: pick the socket that fits snugly on the bolt head. Turn with the ratchet; for stuck bolts, use a longer handle or breaker bar.
- Combination wrenches (metric, common sizes 12–24 mm)
- Description: open-end and boxed-end wrenches.
- Use: hold the nut or bolt head on one side while turning the other side with a socket/ratchet; boxed end gives best grip.
- Breaker bar (long non-ratcheting bar)
- Description: long bar for extra leverage.
- Use: fit a socket and use steady pressure to break free stubborn or rusted bolts. Don’t jerk.
- Torque wrench (click-type, appropriate range for car bolts)
- Description: wrench that measures applied torque.
- Use: set to the manufacturer’s torque spec and tighten until the wrench clicks. Important for final tightening of mounting bolts.
- Penetrating oil (WD-40 type or PB Blaster)
- Description: liquid that soaks into rusted threads.
- Use: spray on rusty bolts, wait 10–20 minutes, respray if needed; helps avoid snapped bolts.
- Hydraulic floor jack (2–3 ton) and good quality jack stands
- Description: hydraulic jack raises the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
- Use: lift at the vehicle’s recommended jacking points; place stands under sturdy frame points and slowly lower the vehicle onto stands.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: rubber or plastic wedges to block wheels.
- Use: place behind wheels that remain on ground to stop rolling.
- Hammer or mallet (preferably a dead-blow mallet)
- Description: tool for persuading stuck components free without damaging them.
- Use: tap bolts or mount lightly to free rusted parts.
- Pry bar or large screwdriver
- Description: lever tool to persuade components into alignment.
- Use: use to align bolt holes when installing the shock, or to lever out a stuck bushing.
- Wire brush and rags
- Description: cleaning tools for rust/debris.
- Use: clean bolt threads and mating surfaces before reassembly.
- Replacement bush tool / socket sleeve (optional but helpful)
- Description: appropriately sized metal sleeve or large socket to press bushing sleeve out/in.
- Use: push the old steel sleeve out of the rubber bushing and press the new sleeve in.
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Description: power tool that quickly loosens/tightens bolts.
- Why optional: speeds the job, helpful for rusty bolts, but not necessary if you have a breaker bar. If used, always finish with a torque wrench.
- Angle grinder or rescue cutting tools (last-resort, not recommended for beginners)
- Description: cuts through severely corroded bolts or welded mounts.
- Why only if necessary: changes mount structure and can be dangerous; prefer professional help if welding/cutting is required.

- Parts you may need and why
- New shock absorbers
- Why: worn shocks cause poor ride, excess bounce, and can damage mounts. Replace shocks in pairs (both front or both rear).
- Upper/lower mounting bolt kit (new bolts, nuts, washers, and sleeves)
- Why: old hardware can be rusted, stretched, or corroded and should be replaced for safety and proper clamping.
- Rubber bushings / mount kit (sleeve, rubber insulator, washers)
- Why: bushings wear, crack or compress; new bushings restore proper isolation and fitment and prevent metal-on-metal contact.
- Mounting bracket (only if bent or corroded)
- Why: corroded or cracked brackets must be replaced to ensure a secure mount; welding/bracket replacement may be required.
- Anti-seize or thread-lock (small tube)
- Why: anti-seize prevents future seizure on stainless/galvanized parts; thread-lock (medium strength) used if specified by manufacturer.

- How to do the shock mount replacement — general procedure for truck-style shocks (applicable to typical Toyota diesel chassis)
- Prepare vehicle
- Chock rear wheels, loosen wheel nuts slightly if removing wheel, lift vehicle with floor jack at recommended lift point, place jack stands under a sturdy frame point and lower vehicle onto stands.
- Remove the wheel if it gives easier access to the shock.
- Inspect the shock and mount
- Spray penetrating oil on upper and lower mounting nuts/bolts and let soak 10–20 minutes.
- Clean visible rust with a wire brush so tools seat correctly.
- Remove lower mounting bolt first (if applicable)
- Use the correct socket and a wrench on the opposite side; breaker bar helps if it’s tight.
- If the bolt refuses to move, use penetrating oil again, tap with hammer, then try breaker bar or impact gun.
- Support the axle or control arm
- Use a jack (with a block of wood) to support the axle or control arm so the suspension doesn’t drop suddenly when shock is removed.
- Remove upper mounting nut(s)
- For trucks: usually a nut on the top of the shock shaft or a bolt through the chassis mount — hold the shaft with a wrench or socket to prevent spinning and remove the nut.
- Keep track of washers and bushings orientation.
- Remove the shock assembly
- Pull the shock down/out. If bushing/sleeve is stuck, use a pry bar or hammer lightly to persuade it free. For pressed-in sleeves, use a tube/socket to push them out.
- Replace bushings and sleeve
- If the shock’s rubber bushings are replaceable separately, press out the old sleeve and press in the new one before fitting the shock.
- Ensure the new rubber sits in the right direction and the sleeve is fully seated.
- Fit the new or rebuilt shock
- Position the shock into place, insert bolt(s) and hand-thread nuts/washers.
- Align bolt holes using the jack to lift or lower the axle or by levering the mounting bracket; a pry bar helps align.
- Torque bolts to spec
- Tighten lower bolt snugly first, then torque to the vehicle’s factory specification with a torque wrench.
- Tighten upper mount nut(s) and torque to spec. If you don’t have the factory spec, get it from the vehicle service manual; do not guess.
- Reinstall wheel, lower vehicle, and final torque
- If you removed the wheel, reinstall, hand-tighten lug nuts, lower vehicle off stands, then torque lug nuts to spec.
- Road-test gently and recheck hardware after the first 50–100 km.

- Specific beginner tips and common issues
- Always replace shocks in pairs (both front or both rear) for balanced handling.
- If an upper shaft nut is seized and spins the shock shaft, hold the shaft with a second wrench on the flats or use locking pliers (protect shaft with rag) to prevent damage.
- If bolts are heavily corroded and you must cut them, be prepared to replace bracket hardware or get a professional — cutting can change mount alignment.
- Do not overtighten rubber bushings while the vehicle is off the ground in a drooped position; some manufacturers want final tightening with the vehicle at static ride height — check the manual.
- Keep track of washer and bushing orientation; wrong orientation causes premature wear.

- When to stop and get professional help
- If mounting brackets are badly rusted, cracked, or have been welded previously.
- If bolts shear or threads are damaged inside the frame.
- If you’re uncomfortable with lifting/aching parts or using cutting tools.

- Final checks
- Confirm all bolts and nuts torqued to spec.
- Check for binding or metal-to-metal contact at mounts.
- Drive slowly and listen for unusual noises, then recheck torque after a short test drive.

- Quick checklist of spare parts to buy before starting
- New shock absorbers (matching front/rear and vehicle specs)
- Mounting bolt kit (bolts, nuts, washers, sleeves)
- Replacement rubber bushings / mount kit
- Penetrating oil, anti-seize, rags

- Notes on model-specific specs
- Exact bolt sizes, torque specs, and whether the top mount uses a bearing or special insulator vary by specific Toyota model and year. Get the vehicle’s service manual or a specific workshop manual for the exact torque figures and any manufacturer-specific steps.

No questions asked.
rteeqp73

Land cruiser 1HZ 1HDT 1PZ Valve shim adjustment tutorial A "how to" on how to adjust the valve shims on your toyota land cruiser with 1HZ and 1HDT engine, but will work on other as well.

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