Safety (read first)
- Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area; diesel is flammable and fumes are hazardous.
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and long sleeves. Keep a Class B (flammable-liquid) fire extinguisher within reach.
- No smoking, sparks, or open flames anywhere near the vehicle while you work.
- Chock wheels and use the parking brake. If you raise the vehicle, use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting any fuel-system or electrical work.
- Clean the area around fittings before opening lines to avoid contamination.
- Have rags and an appropriate container to catch spilled fuel; dispose of fuel-soaked rags safely.

Which pump this guide covers
- Low-pressure lift pump (mechanical engine-mounted pump or in-tank electric sender/pump): routine replacement can be done by a competent beginner with basic tools and care. This guide focuses on these two common types.
- High-pressure injection pump (timing-sensitive, engine-driven): replacement/bench work requires timing, calibration, and special tools/knowledge. Get a service manual and consider a diesel specialist for this job.

Tools — description and how to use each (every tool explained)
- Socket set and ratchet
- What: Metric sockets (8–22 mm typical) and 1/4", 3/8" ratchets and extensions.
- How to use: Match socket to bolt head; push fully onto fastener; use ratchet to turn. Use short strokes in tight spaces. Turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Remove bolts by hand once loose to avoid dropping them.
- Combination spanners (open/box) — metric sizes
- What: Open end for quick edges; boxed end for a firm grip on bolt heads.
- How to use: Use the boxed end for a torqueing grip; use open end where boxed end won’t fit. Hold opposing fitting with one spanner while turning other to avoid twisting lines.
- Line wrench (flare/line spanner)
- What: Wrench that fits around fuel line nuts and won’t round them.
- How to use: Slide fully onto the fuel line nut and turn with steady force. Use opposite wrench to hold the mating fitting to prevent twisting lines.
- Torque wrench
- What: Click-type or beam torque wrench for accurate final tightening.
- How to use: Set to specified torque, snug bolts first by hand, then tighten with torque wrench until it clicks. Always tighten gradually and in correct sequence if multiple bolts.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- What: For hose clamps, small screws, prying low-force parts.
- How to use: Use correct tip size. Don’t use screwdrivers as pry bars or to force-fit parts.
- Pliers (slip-joint and locking/Vice-Grip)
- What: Holding, pulling hoses, removing clips.
- How to use: Grip firmly but don’t deform fittings. Use locking pliers to hold parts when needed; protect soft metal with rag when clamping.
- Hose clamp pliers or small flat screwdriver
- What: For pinch or screw-style hose clamps.
- How to use: Squeeze spring clamps with clamp pliers, or turn screw clamps with screwdriver until hose slides off.
- Drain pan and absorbent pads
- What: To catch fuel and prevent contamination.
- How to use: Place under pump/lines; empty into approved fuel container or dispose per local regs.
- Funnel and clean empty container (for pumping/priming)
- What: To refill and prime filter assembly.
- How to use: Pour diesel into filters or pump priming ports slowly to avoid air pockets.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) and wire brush
- What: To free seized bolts and clean mating surfaces.
- How to use: Apply penetrating oil, let soak, then use wire brush to clean threads and surfaces.
- Torque/holding tools for fuel lines (small crescent wrench)
- What: To hold the injection pump fitting while loosening the feed line.
- How to use: Hold stationary fitting while turning nuts with a line wrench.
- Multimeter (for electric in-tank pump checks)
- What: To check supply voltage and continuity.
- How to use: Set to DC volts, probe connector with key on to confirm power; use continuity to check internal pump or sender ground.
- Small picks and O-ring picks
- What: To remove old O-rings and seals without damaging grooves.
- How to use: Gently pry out old O-rings; avoid gouging metal surfaces.
- Fuel-line quick-disconnect tool (if your vehicle uses quick-connect fittings)
- What: Tool to release factory quick-connect fuel fittings.
- How to use: Insert the tool into the connector to release the retaining collar, then pull the line out. If you don’t have quick-connect fittings, this tool is not needed.

Extra tools you may need and why
- Fuel-line disconnect tool — required if your model uses quick-connect fittings at the tank or filter head.
- Engine pulleys/timing tools — required if you must remove and reinstall the high-pressure injection pump (do not attempt without service manual and timing tools).
- Bench vise and small bearing puller — sometimes useful if replacing pump shaft seals or disassembling an old mechanical pump for inspection.
- Replacement copper crush washers / banjo bolt set — many fuel lines use crush washers; reusing old washers causes leaks.
- Service manual (model-specific) — provides torque specs, pump location, bleed procedures and timing info; strongly recommended.

Parts that usually must be replaced and why
- New fuel pump assembly (mechanical or electric) — worn/failed pump; replace because worn pumps reduce fuel delivery or leak.
- New gasket(s) and O-rings — always replace to prevent leaks and ensure proper sealing.
- Copper crush washers (banjo fittings) — replace whenever fuel line banjo bolts are removed to prevent leaks.
- Fuel filter (and filter O-ring) — replace as a matter of course when changing pump; contaminated filter causes pump overload and air ingress.
- Fuel hoses and clamps (if cracked or hardened) — replace deteriorated hoses to prevent leaks and air ingress.
- Bleed screw / small sealing washers — recommended if corroded or damaged.
- Injection pump seals / timing components — only when replacing the high-pressure injection pump; this requires specialised parts and calibration.

Step-by-step: mechanical engine-mounted low-pressure lift pump (common on older 1HZ/1PZ/1HD-T)
- Prepare and safety-check: park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery, ventilate, have fire extinguisher and drain pan ready.
- Locate pump: clean area around pump and lines before opening. The mechanical lift pump is usually mounted on the side of the block or timing cover with fuel lines to/from the tank and to the injection pump.
- Catch fuel: position drain pan under the pump and lines; place rags or absorbent pads around the work area.
- Relieve pressure and isolate system: with battery disconnected, crank engine briefly (if safe) to relieve any residual pressure, or slowly open bleed screw into pan if present. For diesel lift pumps pressure is low but treat as if pressurized.
- Label and remove fuel lines: use a line wrench on the fuel nuts; hold the mating fitting with another wrench; loosen slowly to control drips. Replace crush washers on reassembly.
- Remove mounting bolts: use appropriate socket/spanner to remove pump bolts; support pump as last bolt is removed to avoid dropping it.
- Inspect and clean: clean mating surface on engine block with wire brush; remove old gasket material with care.
- Fit new gasket and pump: fit new gasket/O-rings to the new pump, hand-thread mounting bolts, then tighten gradually and use torque wrench to factory spec if available (get specs from service manual). If you don’t have torque specs, tighten snugly but avoid over-tightening—don’t deform the pump housing.
- Reconnect fuel lines: fit new crush washers on banjo bolts or thread fuel nuts with new O-rings as needed. Tighten using line wrench; don’t round the nuts.
- Replace fuel filter: drain and refill new filter with diesel, or refill filter housing if your system requires it.
- Prime system and bleed air: fill the filter, open bleed screw(s) on filter head or pump, and prime using hand primer (if fitted) or crank the engine (or turn ignition to ON if electric priming) until fuel flows steady with no air bubbles—tighten bleed screw(s).
- Reconnect battery and start engine: watch for leaks and listen for unusual noises. If engine won’t start, re-check priming and electrical connections.
- Final checks: recheck all fittings for leaks while engine idles, re-torque fasteners if recommended, clean up spilled fuel and dispose of waste properly.
- Test drive and monitor: after short drive recheck for leaks and proper performance.

Step-by-step: in-tank electric pump (if your model has an in-tank pump)
- Safety and disconnect battery; relieve fuel system per procedure in manual (key off).
- Access pump: remove rear seat or access cover in cargo area to reach tank top access plate; if no access plate, tank drop may be required (more advanced).
- Mark and disconnect electrical connector to pump; label fuel hoses.
- Clean area around access plate, remove retaining bolts/ring, carefully lift pump assembly out (beware of fuel in basket).
- Replace pump module or pump motor only per parts you purchased; always replace the supply sock/fuel strainer and top O-ring/gasket.
- Reinstall assembly ensuring new O-ring/ gasket is seated; torque/fasten per manual; reconnect electrical and fuel lines.
- Prime system and check for leaks; reconnect battery and start/bleed as above.

High-pressure injection pump notes (do not attempt without specialized knowledge)
- Injection pump removal/replacement affects engine timing and injection settings.
- Incorrect timing can cause severe engine damage, poor performance, or uncontrolled injection.
- Special timing marks, locking tools, and calibration equipment are required. Have a service manual and consider a diesel specialist to install and set timing, or send replacement pump for factory calibration.

Common troubleshooting tips
- Engine cranks but won't start after pump replacement: likely air in lines—re-bleed system carefully.
- Leaks at line nuts: usually old crush washers reused or line nut not fully seated—replace washers and tighten with line wrench.
- Pump noisy after fitment: check mounting, clearances, and that pump is correct model for your engine. A failing/new pump that’s loud may be incorrect part or installed incorrectly.

What replacement part to buy
- Buy the exact pump specified for your engine and vehicle VIN (mechanical pump part number differs by 1HZ vs 1HD-T vs 1PZ). OEM pumps or quality aftermarket replacements both possible—confirm fitment before buying.
- Buy pump gasket or gasket kit, O-rings, copper crush washers, new fuel filter and filter O-ring, and any fuel hoses/clamps you suspect are aged.
- If unsure of exact part number, use the vehicle chassis/VIN and engine code when ordering or consult a parts catalogue or dealer.

Final cleanup and disposal
- Wipe up spills immediately. Put used filters, fuel, and contaminated rags in approved containers and dispose per local hazardous-waste rules.
- Reconnect battery, start engine, monitor for leaks, and re-check fasteners after the first run.

If you want a checklist or a short printable cut-down of only the steps without tool descriptions, say so and I’ll produce it.
rteeqp73

Toyota 1hz diesel engine start, 1hz engine Toyota 1hz diesel engine start, 1hz engine.

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