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Toyota 22R and 22R-E engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & consumables needed
- Floor jack + 2 good jack stands (rated for vehicle weight) and wheel chocks
- Transmission jack (recommended) or a sturdy floor jack + wooden block
- Basic hand tools: metric socket set (6–22 mm), ratchet, extensions, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (up to ~100 ft·lb)
- Screwdrivers, pliers, punch set, hammer
- Clutch alignment tool (correct size for input shaft/pilot bearing)
- Pry bar (short length)
- Snap-ring/pilot-bushing remover or small slide hammer/punch (if replacing pilot bushing)
- Wire or zip-ties to temporarily hang parts/wiring
- Drain pan, rags, parts cleaner
- New parts: clutch release (throwout) bearing (specific to 22R/22R‑E), strongly recommended clutch kit (pressure plate + disc), pilot bearing/bushing (if equipped), transmission input shaft seal (optional), throwout fork pivot/boot (inspect/replace if worn), new bellhousing bolts if damaged
- High-temp grease (moly or lithium) for splines and pivot points; do NOT grease friction surfaces or sealed bearings
- Thread locker (blue) for some bolts if specified by manual
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection

Safety precautions (follow these exactly)
- Work on a flat, level surface and chock the rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Support vehicle with jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.
- Support engine (if engine mounts are loosened) with an engine support bar or secondary jack under oil pan with a wood pad—do not damage pan.
- Support transmission securely on a transmission jack before unbolting.
- Use proper lighting and ventilation; avoid getting grease on clutch surfaces.

High-level sequence
1) Prep and safety
2) Remove drivetrain/accessory components to access transmission
3) Support & drop transmission
4) Replace release bearing and related parts; inspect flywheel/clutch
5) Reinstall, bleed/adjust clutch, test

Step-by-step procedure

1. Prep
- Park, chock rear wheels, disconnect negative battery.
- Raise front of truck and support on jack stands under the frame. Ensure secure.
- Place transmission jack under transmission and raise to support it (or have a helper hold a floor jack with a wood block).

2. Drain/prepare
- Put a drain pan under transmission area in case of fluid loss.
- Remove air cleaner/intake parts and any crossmembers or splash shields blocking access.

3. Disconnect linkages & electrical
- Remove shift linkage from transmission (mark linkage position).
- Unplug speedometer cable or vehicle speed sensor harness.
- Unplug reverse light switch wiring and any other electrical connectors on the trans.
- Remove starter motor (easier to access bellhousing bolts).

4. Disconnect drivetrain
- Remove drive shaft: mark orientation, unbolt at yoke or flange, slide rear of driveshaft out of transmission yoke and store.
- If the exhaust or catalytic converter interferes, loosen/remove necessary sections to get transmission free.

5. Release hydraulic or cable connections
- If hydraulic clutch: disconnect slave cylinder (or line) from bellhousing. Plug or cap lines to minimize fluid loss; plan to bleed system after reassembly.
- If cable clutch: disconnect cable from clutch fork.

6. Support & remove mounts
- Support engine if required (if you will remove engine mount or crossmember).
- Remove transmission mount bolts and crossmember that supports the trans.
- Keep all bolts tagged/organized.

7. Unbolt bellhousing from engine
- Remove all bellhousing bolts (usually around the perimeter). There are dowel pins aligning the engine/trans — keep track.
- Remove lower bolts first, then top. Some bolts are hard to access; use extensions and a universal joint.

8. Separate transmission from engine
- With transmission jack supporting the trans, carefully pry at bellhousing seam to free trans from engine block/dowel pins. Use a short pry bar and pry between block and bellhousing—do not pry on fork or sensor bosses.
- Slide transmission straight back a few inches until input shaft clears clutch pressure plate and pilot bearing. Beware of the clutch disc spring tension; keep the trans centered.

9. Lower transmission
- Lower transmission enough to access clutch assembly in bellhousing. If needed, tilt the tail rearward slightly to clear the bellhousing lip, using the trans jack controls.
- Remove transmission completely and move it back/clear from under vehicle in a stable manner.

10. Remove pressure plate & clutch disc
- Mark pressure plate orientation and loosen pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern a little at a time to release evenly.
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Inspect disc for contamination, springs, wear.
- Inspect flywheel friction surface for hot spots, scoring or glazing. If light glazing, resurfacing (machine) recommended. Deep scoring or heat cracks = replace or resurface.

11. Remove old release bearing and inspect clutch fork/pivot
- On transmission input shaft or release fork, slide off old release bearing. Note orientation — bearing face toward pressure plate.
- Inspect clutch fork for wear at pivot and release bearing contact area. Replace pivot or boot if worn.
- Clean the fork contact point and apply a thin smear of high-temp grease on pivot ball and the fork pad where the bearing rides. Do NOT grease the face of the bearing.
- If the input shaft has a nylon/rubber guide or sleeve, replace if damaged.

12. Inspect/replace pilot bearing/bushing
- Remove pilot bushing/bearing from flywheel/pilot bore using appropriate puller or punch/slide hammer. Replace with new. Lightly oil new bushing or use recommended lubricant from manual (some pilot bearings are lightly oiled by engine oil).
- Ensure the bore is clean and not scored.

13. Install new release bearing
- If bearing is a sealed unit, do NOT add grease. If it’s a serviceable unit, pack per manufacturer instructions.
- Install bearing in correct orientation onto the fork or into the trans sleeve. Confirm it slides smoothly on the input shaft and actuates freely by moving the fork.

14. (Recommended) Install new clutch kit
- Fit clutch disc using the alignment tool: insert alignment tool into pilot bearing, push clutch disc onto the flywheel splines, then mount pressure plate over the disc.
- Tighten pressure plate bolts incrementally in a crisscross/star pattern to specified torque (see factory manual). This centers the disc to allow the transmission input shaft to slide in easily.
- Do not contaminate clutch surfaces with oil or grease.

15. Reinstall transmission
- With trans jack, align input shaft with clutch disc and pilot bearing. The alignment tool should make this straightforward; do not force the shaft or angle excessively.
- Slide transmission forward until bellhousing contacts engine block and dowel pins engage. You may need to slightly rotate the input shaft to engage the splines.
- Install bellhousing bolts finger tight, then torque in a star pattern to factory specs.
- Reinstall crossmember and transmission mount. Torque bolts to spec.

16. Reconnect everything
- Reattach starter, drive shaft, exhaust sections removed, speedometer cable, wiring harnesses, clutch linkage or hydraulic line, etc.
- If hydraulic: reconnect slave cylinder and bleed clutch system (start at slave pedal bleed nipple or use two-person pump/bleeding kit). Ensure pedal feels firm and fully releases.
- Top off transmission fluid if any was lost and check for leaks.

17. Final checks
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- With vehicle still on stands, start engine and check clutch engagement/disengagement. Shift through gears with parking brake on to check proper operation.
- Lower vehicle carefully and test drive. Pay attention to noise, smooth shifting, and clutch bite point. Re-check fasteners after test drive.

How the main tools are used (brief)
- Transmission jack: supports and raises/lowers the heavy transmission safely; secure trans with strap before removing bolts. Use the jack’s tilt feature to align the input shaft to the pilot.
- Clutch alignment tool: inserted through clutch disc splines into the pilot bearing to center disc and pressure plate. This ensures the input shaft can be slid in without forcing or misalignment. Keep it in place until transmission input shaft is seated, then remove.
- Torque wrench: tighten bolts to spec in correct sequence (pressure plate, bellhousing, mounts). Even gradual tightening prevents warping and misalignment.
- Pry bar: used only to break the bellhousing free from the engine block carefully; do not use to lever the transmission once unbolted if not fully supported—stress on mounts/dowel pins can cause damage.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- NOT supporting engine/transmission properly: always use proper jacks/stands. Risk = dropped trans or engine damage.
- Not using a clutch alignment tool: causes difficulty sliding transmission in and can damage splines or pilot bearing.
- Contaminating clutch surfaces: avoid getting oil/grease on clutch disc/pressure plate. If contamination occurs, replace the clutch disc (cleaning does not reliably restore friction).
- Re-using a worn pilot bearing or throwout bearing: replace these—failure leads to noise and premature wear.
- Torque and sequence mistakes: tighten pressure plate bolts in a star pattern gradually to spec; uneven tightening warps the pressure plate.
- Forcing transmission input shaft: if it won’t slide in, don’t hammer. Check alignment, tight bolts, or a pressure plate not fully released by dowel pins.
- Forgetting to bleed the hydraulic clutch: results in soft pedal and poor shifting.
- Ignoring flywheel condition: a glazed or scored flywheel reduces clutch life and can cause chatter. Resurface or replace if necessary.
- Reusing damaged pilot bushing bore: causes misalignment and input shaft wobble.

Replacement parts to get (minimum recommended)
- New clutch release (throwout) bearing (exact part for 22R/22R‑E)
- Clutch kit (pressure plate + clutch disc) — strongly recommended whenever replacing release bearing
- Pilot bearing/bushing
- Throwout fork pivot/boot (if worn)
- Transmission input shaft seal and possibly rear main seal (if transmission removal exposes them)
- New transmission mount hardware or bolts if corroded

Final notes
- Exact bolt torques and any special procedures (e.g., shuttle pin locations, clutch pedal free play specs) vary by year/model—use the Toyota service manual for torque specs and hydraulic system details.
- If you lack a transmission jack or alignment tool, consider professional help—improper handling risks serious damage or injury.

Done.
rteeqp73

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