1) Safety and preparation
- Theory: Brakes are a hydraulic system; you will be working under the vehicle and manipulating brake fluid and wheel assemblies. Prevent collapse, rolling and contamination.
- Do: Park on level surface, chock opposite wheels, engage parking brake (if working front, disable parking brake to avoid compounding issues), loosen wheel lug nuts slightly while car on ground, jack vehicle and support on stands, remove wheel. Wear gloves and eye protection.

2) Inspect before disassembly
- Theory: Diagnose cause of pad wear/noise to avoid repeating the problem. Pads wear because friction material is consumed; uneven wear or rapid wear indicates caliper/piston/slider/hose/master cylinder or parking-brake problems.
- Do: Visually inspect rotor for scoring, glazing, rust, thickness variation and runout; check pad thickness and inner vs outer wear; check caliper slide pins condition and boot integrity; check brake hose for swelling or cracking; check fluid level and look for leaks.

3) Remove caliper and pads in order
- Theory: Floating/sliding calipers (typical on Toyota 22R/22R‑E front) hold pads and transmit piston force; you must remove caliper to replace pads without stretching hoses.
- Do: Remove caliper guide/slide bolts, carefully pull caliper off the rotor, support caliper with wire/ hanger—do not let it hang by brake hose. Remove old pads and any pad-retaining hardware. For rear disc with integrated parking brake, the piston may need to be turned in using the appropriate tool (screw‑in type) — do not try to just push it in.

4) Inspect and address rotor and hardware
- Theory: Pads need a smooth, flat mating surface. Deep grooves, excessive runout, or thickness under minimum cause vibration, reduced friction and faster pad wear. Rust on backing plate or seized hardware can cause sticking.
- Do: Measure rotor thickness and compare to minimum spec (service manual). If surface is lightly glazed or slightly uneven, light resurfacing is possible; if below spec or heavily scored, replace rotor. Clean caliper bracket slides and pad abutment surfaces; replace anti-rattle clips, shims or hardware if worn or corroded.

5) Retract caliper piston(s)
- Theory: The piston must be pushed back to create clearance for new, thicker pads. Pushing the piston compresses fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir; if reservoir is low, fluid may overflow.
- Do: Open hood and check master cylinder reservoir; remove excess fluid if near full. Use a C‑clamp or dedicated piston spreader to slowly compress piston(s) back into caliper bore. For screw‑type rear calipers, use the correct turn-in tool and direction. If caliper pistons are stuck, the caliper or piston may need rebuilding or replacement.

6) Install new pads and reassemble caliper
- Theory: New pads restore friction material and designed backing/shim reduces noise and equalizes pressure. Proper hardware ensures free movement so pads wear evenly.
- Do: Apply high-temp brake grease to pad backs (not friction surface) and to slide pins where required. Install new shims/anti-squeal tape and pads. Refit caliper over pads and rotor, install and torque guide bolts to factory spec (consult service manual). Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts to spec when lowered.

7) Final checks and bleed if necessary
- Theory: Compressing pistons pushes fluid back; if the system lost fluid or air entered, bleeding is required to remove air because air is compressible and reduces pedal firmness.
- Do: With reservoir level correct, cycle the brake pedal several times with engine off to seat pads. If pedal feels spongy or reservoir was opened/emptied, bleed brakes starting at the farthest wheel from master cylinder. Check for leaks and proper hose routing.

8) Bed-in procedure
- Theory: New pads and rotor mating surfaces must transfer a thin, even layer of friction material to the rotor (conditioning) for best stopping and long life. Skipping bedding can cause glazing, noise and reduced friction.
- Do: Perform a series of progressive stops from moderate speed (per pad manufacturer: typically 8–10 decelerations from 30–40 mph to 5–10 mph without coming to full stop between stops) then allow cooling. Avoid heavy stops for first 100–200 miles.

How the repair fixes the fault (theory)
- Worn pads: Replacing pads restores adequate friction material and correct pad clearance so hydraulic force generates sufficient frictional force at the rotor to stop the vehicle within designed distance.
- Noise/vibration: New pads plus clean hardware and correct shims remove uneven contact, reduce vibration and eliminate metal‑to‑metal contact that causes squeal/grinding.
- Uneven wear/sticking: Cleaning/replacing slide pins, lubricating, or replacing a seized caliper allows the pad to move freely so the piston pressure is transmitted evenly; that stops inner/outer uneven wear and pulling.
- Rotor damage: Repairing or replacing rotor restores a flat friction surface and correct thickness, preventing heat concentration, vibration and premature pad wear.

Common failure modes you will see and what they mean
- Inner pad much thinner than outer: caliper piston not retracting freely or slider stuck inward.
- Both pads worn thin but rotor OK: normal wear — pads required.
- Scored rotor with metal backing plate contact: pads worn through — rotor likely damaged; check for caliper seized.
- Spongy pedal after replacement: air in system, improper bleeding, or master cylinder issue.
- Brake drag after job: caliper piston not seated properly, slides corroded, parking brake issue, or hose collapsed internally.

Torque specs and tolerances
- Use the Toyota service manual for exact torque values (lug nuts and caliper/guide bolts). Do not guess torques.

Do a final road test
- Theory: Confirm pedal feel, absence of noise, and no pulling. Short, slow test first; then progressive stops to bed pads.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

common 22re problems

How to Remove Stubborn Toyota 20R - 22R - 22RE Crankshaft Pulley Bolt 1979 - 1995 A long (but detailed) video on the tips and tricks I've learned over the years on how to remove stubborn crankshaft pulley bolts on ...

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