1) Purpose & basic theory (short)
- Spark plugs convert high-voltage ignition energy into a timed electrical spark across a small gap to ignite the compressed air–fuel mixture. Correct gap, heat range, electrode condition and insulation are required for reliable ignition. Worn/fouled plugs increase required voltage, cause intermittent or weak sparks, misfire, rough idle, hard starting, poor economy and higher emissions. Replacing plugs restores correct gap and clean electrodes so the ignition system can deliver consistent sparks at the right time and energy.

2) Preparations (why each matters)
- Work on a cool-to-warm engine: warm makes deposits easier to free, but do not remove hot plugs immediately (risk of thread damage).
- Gather: correct replacement plugs for 22R/22R‑E (use manufacturer‑recommended type; electronic ignition engines typically use resistor plugs), spark plug socket with rubber insert, ratchet and swivel, torque wrench, gap tool, dielectric grease, anti‑seize only if manufacturer allows, compressed air/brush, gloves and safety glasses.
- Safety: negative battery terminal off reduces risk of accidental spark when handling ignition components (optional but cautious).

3) Removal — ordered steps and why
1. Remove components that block access (air cleaner, intake snorkel, etc.). This gives clearance and prevents contamination.
2. Blow compressed air around each plug well before removal. Reason: prevents dirt from falling into the combustion chamber when you loosen a plug.
3. Work one cylinder at a time: label or note firing order position of the wire/boot, then remove that spark plug wire or coil-on-plug boot. Why: preserves firing order and prevents mixing wires which would cause missing cylinders later.
4. Gently twist the boot and pull on the boot, not the wire. Reason: preserves wire connection.
5. Use the correct spark-plug socket and extension; loosen and remove the plug straight out. Why: avoid cross-threading and breakage; a rubber insert holds the plug for safe withdrawal.

4) Inspect old plugs (what faults look like and what they mean)
- Normal light tan/gray insulator: good combustion.
- Black, sooty deposit: rich mixture, weak ignition, or short trips (plug too cold or wrong heat range).
- Oily deposits: valve cover or guide seals leaking oil into the cylinder.
- Blistered/white insulator, melted electrodes: overheating, detonation, wrong heat range or ignition timing.
- Excessive gap/worn electrodes: long service life; increases required voltage and causes misfire.
Understanding what you see points to root causes beyond plugs (fuel/air, oil control, ignition timing).

5) Prepare new plugs (theory + steps)
1. Verify the correct plug type and heat range for 22R/22R‑E from the parts manual.
2. Check and set the electrode gap with a feeler/gap tool to the factory spec (typical range for many 4‑cyl Toyota engines ≈ 0.7–0.8 mm / 0.028–0.032 in; confirm the exact spec). Theory: gap controls the spark characteristics; too wide prevents spark under compression, too narrow weakens spark energy.
3. Do NOT over‑apply anti‑seize unless the plug manufacturer or Toyota specifically calls for it — many modern plugs are plated and already have appropriate thread coatings. Anti‑seize changes the effective torque-to-clamp relation and can cause over-tightening if not accounted for.
4. A small dab of dielectric grease inside the boot helps electrical insulation and eases future removal (it does not go on the plug threads/electrode).

6) Installation — ordered steps and why
1. Thread the plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Reason: hand-starting prevents stripping threads in the cylinder head.
2. Seat the plug snug by hand, then use a torque wrench and tighten to factory torque (use the manual value; typical spark-plug torque for small 4‑cyl heads is low — approx. 12–18 N·m / 9–13 ft·lb — but check the exact spec). Theory: correct torque ensures proper heat transfer from plug to head and prevents thread damage.
3. Reinstall the ignition boot/wire firmly until it clicks or is fully seated. Theory: good contact ensures low-resistance connection and prevents arcing at the boot.
4. Repeat for each cylinder, one at a time, to keep wire/order correct.
5. Reinstall removed components, reconnect battery if disconnected.

7) Post-replacement checks and verification (why these confirm the repair)
- Start the engine and listen for smooth idle and acceleration. Theory: consistent firing indicates good spark delivery and plug function.
- Scan for any stored misfire codes if you have OBD scanner (22R‑E is pre-OBD-II but some scanners can read legacy codes) and check for roughness under load. If problems persist, inspect ignition wires, distributor cap/rotor (if present), ignition timing, fuel mixture and compression.
- Re-inspect plugs after a short run if you suspect fuel/air problems to confirm color/condition.

8) How this repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Replacing worn/fouled plugs restores the correct electrode geometry and gap so the coil/distributor can generate enough voltage to jump the gap reliably. That returns consistent ignition timing and spark energy, eliminating misfires, improving idle smoothness, restoring power and fuel economy, and reducing unburned emissions. If a plug was fouled by oil or showing thermal damage, replacement also reveals underlying mechanical or tuning issues that must be addressed separately.

Done.
rteeqp73

Remove Toyota Pickup Truck 22RE Engine & Transmission Today I'm going to remove the 22RE engine and A43D auto transmission from what's left of my rusty 1986 Toyota 1-ton pickup.

TOYOTA 22RE ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1/2 - Teardown and analysis of a poor running 22R Toyota legend... My 1985 Celica GT Coupe was barely running when I bought it, but I knew that I could bring the legendary 22R-E back to life!

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