Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, 3/8" drive extensions and swivel
- Torque wrench (0–100 ft·lb range)
- Drain pan (6–8+ qt capacity)
- Floor jack + 2 quality jack stands (or lift)
- Wheel chocks
- Oil filter wrench
- Gasket scraper or plastic razor, small wire brush
- Brake cleaner or solvent, shop rags
- New oil pan gasket (cork or OEM rubber type for 22R/22R‑E)
- High-temp RTV sealant (Toyota or equivalent) — only if OEM uses/betterment required; check manual
- New oil drain plug crush washer (copper/aluminum) or new plug if damaged
- New engine oil and new oil filter
- Small magnet (for inspecting debris), flashlight
- Optional: pan gasket seal puller, thread chaser, anti-seize, PB Blaster or penetrating oil

Safety precautions (read and follow)
- Work on a cool engine. Hot oil and surfaces cause burns.
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Use a proper floor jack and support the vehicle on rated jack stands on the factory pinch/weld points. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Keep hands clear when lowering the car.
- Dispose of used oil and gasket material per local regulations.

Overview of the job
- Drain oil, remove components blocking pan, remove oil pan, clean mating surfaces, install new gasket (± RTV per spec), torque pan bolts to spec, replace drain plug washer, refill oil and filter, check for leaks.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Preparation
- Warm the engine to normal operating temperature, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster and carries debris out.
- Park, chock wheels, set parking brake.

2. Raise and support vehicle
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts if wheels need to come off for access (not usually required).
- Lift vehicle with floor jack under the recommended lift point and place jack stands under pinch welds or frame rails. Confirm solid support before crawling under.

3. Drain engine oil
- Place drain pan under oil drain plug.
- Remove oil filler cap to help speed draining.
- Remove drain plug with correct socket; let oil drain fully. Replace or install new crush washer on plug later. Typical drain plug torque approx. 20–30 ft·lb (consult manual).

4. Remove splash shield/components
- Remove any splash shields, skid plates or brackets obstructing access to the oil pan. On some trucks you must remove a small crossmember or steering linkage bolts — inspect and remove bolts as required.
- If transmission crossmember or motor mount blocks pan removal, support engine/trans with jack and remove crossmember per manual — if unsure, follow factory service manual steps.

5. Remove oil pan fasteners
- Clean around the pan bolts to minimize dirt falling into engine.
- Loosen and remove pan bolts in a systematic pattern to avoid prying stress. Keep track of bolt locations — some may be longer near corners.
- On 22R/22R‑E the bolts are small — typical tightening is low torque; they can strip if overtightened.

6. Break seal and remove pan
- Carefully pry the pan loose with a plastic scraper or flat-blade protected with a rag. Avoid gouging the block mating surface.
- Lower the pan slowly; if it was full of oil, tilt to control drain into pan. Inspect the pan for metal shavings, chunks, or coolant (if head gasket failure suspected).

7. Inspect internals
- Inspect oil pickup screen and pump pickup for debris. Use magnet to check for ferrous shavings stuck to pan or pickup.
- Remove any heavy debris from the pan and magnet. Small hard particles are normal; heavy scoring or chunks require further diagnosis.

8. Clean mating surfaces
- Use gasket scraper or plastic razor to remove old gasket and sealant from block and pan flange. Avoid gouging aluminum.
- Clean both surfaces with brake cleaner and rags until residue-free.
- If bolt holes have old sealant, clean threads with a thread chaser or wire brush lightly.

9. Prepare new gasket and sealant
- If using an OEM gasket, position it on the pan. If the service manual calls for RTV in corners (common on many Toyotas), apply a thin bead (approx. 2–3 mm) in the specified areas — typically at rear corners where gasket ends meet or at the oil pump adapter seam. Do NOT smear a continuous heavy bead around the entire flange unless manual directs.
- If using cork gasket plus RTV, apply small dabs at corners only.
- Ensure drain plug has new crush washer.

10. Install oil pan
- Position pan carefully and start bolts by hand to ensure threads engage. Do not force any bolt.
- Tighten bolts finger‑tight in a crisscross pattern to seat the gasket.
- Gradually torque bolts to final spec in several passes, following a spiral/crisscross pattern from center outward. Typical oil pan bolt torque for small pan bolts is low — approximately 7–12 ft·lb (9–16 N·m). Consult the Toyota service manual for exact 22R/22R‑E torque values and bolt length placement.
- Torque the drain plug to its spec (≈20–30 ft·lb typical).

11. Reinstall removed parts
- Reinstall splash shields, crossmember, brackets, steering links, etc., torquing to factory specs.
- Replace oil filter with a new one. Add a little fresh oil to the new filter gasket and spin on per instructions.

12. Refill engine oil
- Lower vehicle, remove jack stands.
- Refill with the specified oil grade and quantity for 22R/22R‑E (typical 4.0–4.2 qt with filter; check manual for exact capacity).
- Start engine, let idle, and check for leaks around pan and drain plug.
- Shut off, recheck oil level and top up as necessary after a short run.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Over‑torquing bolts: strips threads or crushes gasket. Use a torque wrench and incrementally tighten to spec.
- Leaving old gasket material: causes uneven sealing and leaks. Scrape carefully until clean.
- Too much RTV: excess sealant can flow into oil passages and pickup; only apply where manual directs and use thin beads.
- Damaged drain plug threads or pan threads: replace pan or repair threads (Heli‑Coil, Time‑Safe) rather than overtightening.
- Forgetting to replace crush washer: will leak. Always use a new washer on the drain plug.
- Not inspecting pickup screen: debris can indicate bearing wear. Large metal flakes require deeper engine inspection.
- Improper support when removing crossmember: never let engine hang unsupported — always use an engine support or jack under oil pan (with wood block) if needed.

Notes on replacement parts
- Replace oil pan gasket (OEM recommended). Cork or rubber depends on year — use the correct part.
- Replace drain plug crush washer.
- Replace oil filter and necessary oil.
- If pan is bent, corroded, or bolt holes are damaged, replace the pan.
- If significant metal debris is present, inspect bearings, connecting rods and crank for damage; replacement/engine rebuild may be required.

How the key tools are used
- Torque wrench: set to required torque, tighten bolts in stages and pattern. Always final‑torque clean bolts and avoid “click” past spec.
- Gasket scraper/plastic razor: remove gasket material without gouging machined surfaces.
- Floor jack + jack stands: jack to lifting point, place stands on solid points, gently lower onto stands. Test stability before going under.
- Drain pan: position under drain plug and under pan removal area to catch oil.
- RTV sealant: apply small, continuous bead exactly where required; wait manufacturer cure time if joining surfaces sealed with heavy RTV (most pan gaskets allow immediate assembly).

Final checks
- After filling and running engine, check for leaks at pan and drain plug. Re‑torque drain plug after a short run if recommended.
- Recheck oil level after engine cools and after first few drives.

End — follow OEM service manual for exact torque values and any model‑specific steps.
rteeqp73

TOYOTA 22RE ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1/2 - Teardown and analysis of a poor running 22R Toyota legend... My 1985 Celica GT Coupe was barely running when I bought it, but I knew that I could bring the legendary 22R-E back to life!

Remove Toyota Pickup Truck 22RE Engine & Transmission Today I'm going to remove the 22RE engine and A43D auto transmission from what's left of my rusty 1986 Toyota 1-ton pickup.

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