- Safety first (read and follow): work on a cold engine unless instructions say warm up; wear eye protection and gloves; park on level ground, set parking brake; disconnect negative battery terminal if you will be working near electrics. Have a fire extinguisher handy.

- Basic overview (what you will do): remove valve cover, turn engine to bring each cylinder to the point where both its intake and exhaust valves are fully closed (rockers “loose”), measure clearance with feeler gauge, loosen locknut, turn adjuster screw to set clearance, re‑check clearance, repeat for all valves, reinstall valve cover with a good gasket.

- Tools you need and how to use each (detailed):
- Metric socket set (ratchet + sockets, 8–19 mm range recommended)
- Use the correct size socket on nuts/bolts; ratchet for speed, extension for hard-to-reach bolts. Keep sockets fully seated on fasteners to avoid rounding.
- Combination (open box) wrench set (metric)
- Useful where a socket won’t fit; use box end on nuts where possible to prevent slippage.
- Feeler gauge set (metric and imperial blades)
- Clean blade before use. Insert the correct thickness blade between rocker tip (or tappet) and valve stem/adjuster. A correct clearance feels a slight drag when you slide the blade — it should neither fall through nor be impossible to move.
- Screwdriver or Allen/hex (if adjusters use a slotted/hex screw)
- Hold the adjuster screw while loosening/tightening the locknut; use the correct bit to avoid rounding the screw head.
- Small open-end wrench for locknut (often 10–14 mm)
- Hold the locknut stationary or tighten it while preventing the adjuster from turning.
- Breaker bar or long-handled ratchet and correct socket for crankshaft pulley
- Turn the engine by the crankshaft pulley bolt slowly and precisely; always turn the engine in its normal rotation direction (usually clockwise viewed from front).
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Use to torque valve cover bolts and any bolts with a specified torque. If you don’t have exact values on hand, tighten snugly and follow a cross pattern, then get exact torque spec before final tightening.
- Spark plug socket and ratchet (or remove spark plug wires)
- Removing spark plugs makes rotating the engine easier. Place removed plugs in a clean container.
- Clean shop rags and parts cleaner (degreaser)
- Wipe surfaces, clean valve cover mating area to ensure a good gasket seal.
- Gasket scraper / plastic putty knife
- Remove old gasket material carefully without gouging metal surfaces.
- Magnet pick-up tool / small flashlight
- Helpful to retrieve dropped nuts and to inspect rockers and cam lobes.
- Straight edge or small ruler (optional)
- For quick visual checks of rocker and pushrod straightness.
- Replacement parts to have on hand:
- Valve cover gasket: required if old one is brittle or leaking.
- Adjuster screws and locknuts (or rocker arm kit): have replacements if existing ones are rounded, stripped, or seized.
- Pushrods: if bent or excessively worn, replacement is required — straightness check by rolling on a flat surface.
- Rocker arms, studs, or camshaft (only if wear is found): keep spares if you find metal fatigue, severe wear, or cam lobe damage.
- Valve stem seals (if you find oil in the head or heavy oil consumption): seals leak oil past stems and cause smoking.
- Note why: These parts wear with age; adjuster screws/locknuts strip, gaskets harden, pushrods bend — any of these will prevent correct adjustment or cause leaks and should be replaced.

- Valve clearance specs (typical; confirm with the service manual for your exact vehicle)
- Typical ranges for Toyota 2F solid lifter engine (example values):
- Intake: about 0.20–0.25 mm (0.008–0.010 in)
- Exhaust: about 0.25–0.30 mm (0.010–0.012 in)
- Always confirm exact cold-clearance specs in the factory manual; the stated ranges above are common but may not be exact for every 2F variant.

- Preparations
- Let engine cool if hot (clearances measured cold unless manual says otherwise).
- Disconnect battery negative if you’ll be working near wiring; remove air cleaner if it blocks valve cover.
- Remove spark plug wires and/or spark plugs (label the wires so you can reinstall correctly). Removing plugs makes crank turning easier.
- Remove valve cover: loosen bolts in a crisscross pattern, lift straight up. Clean the mating surfaces and remove old gasket material.

- How to identify cylinder numbers and TDC/compression stroke (simple beginner method)
- Cylinder numbering: on Toyota inline-6, cylinder #1 is at the front of the engine (accessory/belt side), then 2,3,4,5,6 toward the firewall.
- Compression stroke / correct position to adjust a cylinder: adjust valves only when both intake and exhaust rocker arms for that cylinder are loose (off the cam lobe). When both rockers feel “loose” (no cam lobe lifting either valve), the piston is at or very near TDC on the compression stroke for that cylinder — that’s when you set the clearance.
- How to find that:
- Slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise by hand with the access socket on the crank pulley.
- Watch and feel the rocker arms on the cylinder you are setting; when both rockers have free play (not being pushed up by a lobe), stop — that cylinder is ready.

- Adjustment procedure (step-by-step bullets)
- Set engine to the state above for the first cylinder you will adjust (commonly start with #1).
- Verify both intake and exhaust rockers on that cylinder are loose.
- Choose the correct feeler gauge thickness for intake or exhaust per specs.
- Loosen the adjuster locknut just enough to allow the screw to turn; don’t remove it.
- Insert the feeler blade between the rocker tip (or adjuster) and the valve stem tip.
- Turn the adjuster screw slowly:
- Clockwise typically reduces clearance (tightens), counterclockwise increases clearance.
- Goal: feel a slight drag on the selected feeler blade as you slide it back and forth.
- Hold the adjuster in position (using screwdriver/hex) while tightening the locknut with the wrench; re-check the clearance after tightening because the locknut can move the adjuster slightly — reinsert feeler and confirm.
- Repeat for the other valve on the same cylinder (intake and exhaust).
- Rotate the crank until the next cylinder to be adjusted has both rockers loose; repeat the measurement and adjustment.
- Continue until all valves are checked and set.
- Reinstall valve cover with new gasket if needed, torque bolts to spec, reconnect spark plugs/wires and battery.

- How to use the feeler gauge properly (very important)
- Select the blade for the specified clearance. If the gauge set gives multiple blades, combine blades by stacking if needed; use only clean, unbent blades.
- Insert blade perpendicular to the mating surfaces; you should feel a slight resistance — not finger-tight, not slipping freely.
- If blade is too tight, use a thinner blade; if it falls through, use a thicker blade.
- After locknut tightening, always recheck clearance — tightening often alters the setting.

- How to use the crank pulley socket safely
- Use a long breaker bar or ratchet; always turn in engine’s normal rotation direction (clockwise).
- Turn slowly and stop precisely when rockers for the cylinder become loose. Don’t use sudden, forceful motions.
- Never get hands or tools over moving belts, fans, or pulleys while turning.

- When parts must be replaced (what to look for and why)
- Valve cover gasket: replace if it’s cracked, compressed, hardened, or leaking oil. Reason: prevents oil leaks.
- Adjuster screws or locknuts: replace if threads are stripped, screw head is rounded, locknut won’t hold torque. Reason: you cannot get/hold the set clearance.
- Rocker arms or studs: replace if visibly worn at contact areas, cracked, or stud threads are damaged. Reason: wear changes effective geometry and clearances.
- Pushrods: replace if bent (roll on flat surface to test) or pitted. Bent pushrods cause incorrect valve timing/clearance and possibly damage.
- Cam lobes or lifters: replace if lobes are flattened, have scoring, or lifters are collapsed. Reason: worn cam lobes change valve lift and clearance beyond adjuster capability.
- Valve stem seals: replace if you observe blue smoke on startup or oil in ports. Reason: seals control oil flow down valve stems.
- If clearances cannot be achieved within the adjuster’s range, you will need replacement rocker/adjuster parts or rework shims (if applicable) or professional inspection for cam lobe wear.

- Quick checks for wear (do these while valve cover is off)
- Rocker tip and valve stem contact: look for rounded or grooved surfaces.
- Pushrods: roll on a flat surface to check straightness; look for pitting or bent ends.
- Cam lobes: shiny, smooth lobes are ok; flat or scored lobes are bad.
- Excessive valve train noise after adjustment: recheck clearances and check for worn parts.

- Common beginner mistakes to avoid
- Adjusting when the cylinder is on the exhaust stroke (only adjust when both valves are off the cam lobe).
- Over-tightening locknuts or adjusters and not rechecking clearances.
- Using the wrong feeler blade or using a bent/dirty blade.
- Assuming all clearance specs are identical across engines — confirm with manual.
- Not replacing a degraded valve cover gasket when reinstalling — causes leaks.

- Final reassembly and test
- Clean valve cover mating surfaces, fit new gasket, tighten bolts evenly.
- Reinstall spark plugs/wires in correct order, reconnect battery.
- Start engine and listen for odd noises. Slight ticking is normal until oil circulates; loud tapping may need recheck.
- After short run, shut off and recheck for oil leaks around valve cover and recheck clearances if you suspect an issue.

- If you’re uncertain or find damage
- If you encounter stripped bolts, seized adjusters, bent pushrods, or cam lobe damage, stop and obtain the correct replacement parts or consult a professional. Attempting to force damaged parts can cause catastrophic engine damage.

- Final note (tools you might still want to buy)
- Good quality feeler gauge set (metric/imperial)
- Torque wrench
- Complete metric wrench and socket set
- Replacement valve cover gasket and a small parts kit (adjuster screws, locknuts)
- Service manual for Toyota 2F (very strongly recommended — has exact clearances, torque specs, and diagrams)

End of instructions.
rteeqp73

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What’s the best Toyota engine for my classic Land Cruiser build? The 2F engine was first installed on the newly developed FJ56V – and other models followed. This was an engine that would give Toyota’s larger 4×4’s a much-needed boost in horsepower, and it arrived just in time to power up the FJ45 troopy , which debuted in Australia in the mid-seventies.

Short version up front: replacing the transmission input shaft means removing the gearbox, disassembling the trans to extract the input shaft and associated bearings/seals, pressing the new shaft (or shaft assembly) back in with new bearings/seals, then reassembling and reinstalling the transmission. This is a medium‑to‑advanced job that requires a full set of hand tools, some specialty tools (press, pullers, dial indicator), a clean workspace, and patience. Read the factory service manual for the exact transmission mating your 2F uses and follow bolt torques and wear limits from that manual.

Why this repair is done (theory, in simple terms)
- What the input shaft does: the input shaft is the spindle that takes rotational power from the clutch/flywheel and delivers it into the gearbox. Think of it as the main “drive axle” for the transmission: the engine turns the clutch, the clutch spline engages the input shaft, and that shaft drives the counter/lay shaft and gears. If the input shaft or its bearings/seal fail, power won’t be delivered cleanly — you can have grinding, noise, clutch slippage, gearshaft play, leaks, or total loss of drive.
- Why it fails: common causes are worn or scored splines (from a misaligned clutch or bad pilot bearing), worn input‑shaft bearing(s) (noise and radial play), damaged shift dog engagement areas, or a leaking front seal that wets the clutch and pollutes the assembly. Contaminants, lack of lubrication, or impact/damage from a thrown clutch can also destroy the shaft or bearings.
- Symptoms that lead you here: loud whining/growling from the bellhousing, excessive input‑shaft play measured at the clutch end, clutch not engaging cleanly, metal in the gear oil, or visible spline damage when the trans is pulled.

High‑level system overview (how it works)
- Engine crank —> flywheel —> clutch assembly (pressure plate and friction disc) —> clutch disc splines engage the input shaft splines.
- Input shaft runs into the transmission maincase and meshes with countershaft/lay shaft gears. The input shaft is supported by a front bearing (and sometimes a pilot bearing in the crank) and a rear bearing inside the trans.
- The throw‑out bearing/ clutch release mechanism acts on the pressure plate to release the clutch from the engine/shaft when shifting.

Major components you will see and what each does (detailed descriptions)
- Flywheel: bolted to the crank, provides friction surface for the clutch and mounting for the clutch disc.
- Clutch disc (friction plate): splined to the input shaft; transfers torque when pressed between flywheel and pressure plate.
- Pressure plate: bolts to the flywheel; clamps the clutch disc to the flywheel when engaged.
- Pilot bearing/bushing: small bearing/bushing pressed into the crankshaft nose; supports the inner end of the input shaft and helps center it. If worn, it allows wobble and destroys splines.
- Input shaft: splined shaft that carries the clutch disc and transmits torque to the gearbox. It commonly includes the gear that meshes to the lay/countershaft and may have integral shoulders for bearings.
- Front input bearing (and rear input bearing inside trans): support radial/axial loads on the input shaft. If they wear, the shaft develops play.
- Front seal (output toward bellhousing): keeps gear oil from leaking into the clutch area.
- Snap rings/retaining rings: lock gears and bearings in position on the shaft.
- Gear cluster/lay shaft: meshes with the input shaft gear to transfer motion to the rest of the gearbox.
- Synchronizers and shift sleeves: allow smooth gear engagement on the mainshaft (not directly part of the input shaft but encountered during teardown).

Tools and supplies you’ll need
- Standard hand tools: metric sockets, wrenches, ratchets, extensions, screwdrivers, pry bars
- Torque wrench (calibrated)
- Hydraulic jack and strong jack stands or a lift
- Transmission jack (highly recommended)
- Snap ring pliers
- Pullers (bearing puller, gear puller)
- Arbor press or hydraulic press (for bearing removal/installation)
- Bearing drivers / drift set
- Dial indicator and magnetic base (to check shaft endplay and runout)
- Cleaning solvent, lint‑free rags, gasket scraper
- New bearings, seals, snap rings, pilot bearing/bushing, clutch disc/pressure plate if worn (recommended), and gear oil
- Thread locker, anti-seize (as specified by manual)
- Safety gear: safety glasses, gloves, steel‑toe boots

Safety first
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Support the vehicle firmly with jack stands or use a hoist. Never rely on a jack alone.
- The transmission is heavy; use a transmission jack or have help for removal/reinstallation.
- Use eye protection when pressing or pulling bearings; bear in mind springs and snap rings can fly out.
- Use correct lifting points and avoid working under an unsecured transmission.

Step‑by‑step procedure (beginner‑friendly but thorough)
Note: this is a general procedure. The 2F engine was used with several transmissions; consult the service manual for the exact torque specs, bolt lengths, and lifting points.

1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake, block rear wheels.
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
- Remove any components blocking access to the transmission: air cleaner, exhaust sections if needed, starter motor, fluid lines, speedometer cable or sensor, shifter linkage, transfer case (if 4WD), driveshaft(s).
- Drain gear oil from the transmission into a pan.

2) Support and remove the transmission
- Support the engine if the crossmember or bellhousing supports the engine when the trans is removed (use engine support bar or jack with wood block).
- Place a transmission jack under the trans and secure it.
- Remove bellhousing bolts around the engine/trans joint. Leave bottom bolts for last to support weight.
- Disconnect the clutch release linkage: hydraulic or mechanical (release bearing assembly). If hydraulic, disconnect slave cylinder lines (be prepared to catch fluid) or remove the slave cylinder without opening hydraulic lines if possible. If release bearing is on an arm, unbolt it.
- Slide transmission back carefully until the input shaft clears the clutch disc. You may need to rotate the clutch to align splines for initial removal.
- Lower transmission with the jack and remove from under vehicle.

3) Remove clutch assembly and inspect
- Remove pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern and take off the pressure plate and clutch disc.
- Inspect the flywheel face for heat spots, scoring, or cracks. Replace or resurface if needed.
- Remove and inspect the pilot bearing/bushing in the crank nose. Often this is the root cause; replace it whenever the trans is out.

4) Separate input shaft/gearset from the case
- Place the transmission on a clean workbench, drain any remaining oil, and clean the outside.
- Remove the tail housing or extension as necessary to access internal parts.
- Mark relative positions of cover and case halves, gears, or shims so you can assemble in the same orientation. Take photos as you go.
- Remove shift forks/shafts and synchronizers as needed to gain access to the input shaft assembly. Keep small parts organized in labeled trays.
- Remove snap rings or bolts retaining the input shaft gear(s). Some transmissions require removing the mainshaft or countershaft gears first—follow a logical order, and again consult the manual for the specific gear removal sequence.
- Use a press to push the input shaft out of the case or to remove bearings from the shaft. If the shaft is held by a snap ring, remove ring first. Use a bearing puller on the bearing cone if needed.

5) Inspect input shaft and related parts
- Check splines for wear or deformation. Spline wear looks like sharp ridges or twisting of the spline teeth.
- Check the shaft for straightness: mount in V‑blocks and use a dial indicator to check runout.
- Inspect bearing races, roller/cage for pitting, spalling, or heat discoloration.
- Inspect the front seal housing and case bore for scoring.
- Replace any worn/damaged components rather than trying to reuse them.

6) Replace bearings/seals and install new input shaft (or reconditioned assembly)
- Clean all parts that will be reused and dry them thoroughly.
- Press new bearings onto the new input shaft using an arbor press and proper bearing driver that presses on the bearing race specified by the manual (pressing on the wrong race can damage the bearing).
- Install new snap rings, ensuring they seat fully in their grooves.
- Fit the front input seal in its bore with a driver that seats it squarely. Lightly coat the lip with clean gear oil.
- Install the input shaft assembly into the case; check engagement with the countershaft gear(s).
- Measure and set any required shims or endplay. This is critical: the proper axial clearance (endplay) of the input shaft is specified in the service manual and typically checked with a dial indicator. Too little endplay can preload bearings; too much allows excessive play and noise.

7) Reassemble the transmission
- Reinstall synchronizers, shift forks, and shafts in the reverse order of removal. Use fresh fluid on sliding parts for initial assembly.
- Torque case bolts to spec and ensure mating surfaces are clean and sealed as required (some manuals call for liquid gasket in specific places).
- Reinstall tail housing/extension and any external components.

8) Reinstall transmission into vehicle
- Clean the bellhousing area and flywheel mating surfaces.
- Install a new clutch disc and pressure plate (recommended whenever trans is out) and torque pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern to the manual spec.
- Confirm pilot bearing is installed and that the clutch disc centers properly on the input shaft (use a clutch alignment tool).
- Raise the transmission on the jack and guide the input shaft into the clutch disc splines. Be careful: if the pilot bearing is tight or the input shaft isn’t aligned, the trans won’t slide in easily.
- Start bellhousing bolts finger tight, then torque to spec in a crisscross. Reconnect clutch release linkage, driveline, speedometer, and electrical connectors.
- Refill the transmission with specified gear oil and bleed the clutch hydraulic system if necessary.

9) Final checks and break‑in
- Check for leaks; ensure everything is torqued to specs.
- With the vehicle still supported, test the clutch engagement by rotating the driveline by hand (where possible).
- Lower vehicle, start engine, and test drive carefully. Listen for unusual noises and verify smooth shifting. Check trans fluid level after warm up and adjust as needed.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Wrong part or poor replacement shaft: make sure you have the correct input shaft for your exact transmission model. Using the wrong spline count, length, or diameter will not fit.
- Damaging bearings during installation: use a proper press and drivers. Press on the correct race only; hitting the wrong race will destroy the bearing.
- Improper endplay/shimming: too tight = premature bearing failure; too loose = gear engagement issues. Always measure with a dial indicator and set to manual spec.
- Reusing a bad pilot bearing: always replace the pilot bearing/bushing while the trans is out.
- Contaminated clutch (oil on clutch): replace clutch disc/pressure plate if there was seal leakage.
- Lost or mismatched snap rings and washers: keep parts organized and replace cheap parts (snap rings) rather than risk reuse.
- Not supporting the engine/trans properly: can damage mounts or cause the trans to fall — always use proper supports and a transmission jack.
- Cross‑threading bolts: use hand start on bolts and the correct tools/angles.
- Incorrect torque: follow the factory torque values. Use a calibrated torque wrench.

Tips for a beginner
- Buy the factory service manual or a reliable repair manual for your specific vehicle/transmission — it’s essential for torque specs, sequences, and clearances.
- Label everything. Photos at each stage save a lot of confusion later.
- Replace wear items (pilot bearing, front seal, pressure plate, clutch disc) while you have access; it saves effort later.
- Take your time and don’t force parts. If something doesn’t come apart, find the retaining clip or hidden bolt rather than prying wildly.
- Consider shop help for the press work if you don’t have the tools or experience. Bearings are cheap relative to a botched install.

When to get professional help
- If you do not have access to a press or dial indicator and shiming instructions, a shop can handle bearing installation and endplay setting.
- If the gearbox shows heavy internal damage (broken gears, cracked case), a professional rebuild or replacement is recommended.
- If you’re unsure about engine support or safely removing/reinstalling the trans, take it to a shop.

Final note: this job is doable for a mechanically inclined beginner who has the right tools, takes a methodical approach, and follows the service manual carefully. Safety and following the exact transmission specs are the two most important things.
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