Ordered repair procedure (concise) with the theory for each step — how it fixes the fault:

Preparation
1. Gather parts/tools: correct Toyota 2F transmission/transfer output shaft seal (OEM or exact replacement), seal driver or socket slightly smaller than outer diameter, seal puller, snap‑ring pliers (if applicable), torque wrench, sockets, pry bar, drain pan, clean rags, solvent, fine emery cloth or Scotch‑Brite, lubricant (ATF or gear oil), jack stands. Also get the service manual for torque/specs and seal orientation.
Theory: using the correct part and tools prevents installation damage and ensures the elastomer/material is correct for temperature/chemical exposure.

Diagnosis / verify leak source
2. Clean the area, run the engine/operate driveline and identify leak path. Confirm fluid type and level.
Theory: you must be sure the output seal is the leak source (not belly pan gasket, axle seal, flange gasket). Otherwise replacing the seal won’t stop the leak.

Vehicle safety and access
3. Safely raise the vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove any skid plates or components blocking access to the driveshaft/output flange. Disconnect the battery if working near electrical components.
Theory: safe, stable access is required to remove components and avoid incidental damage.

Drain fluid
4. Drain the transmission/transfer fluid to below the output shaft if removal will expose the fluid. Catch fluid cleanly.
Theory: prevents large spills and reduces contamination of the work area; seals are easier to remove/inspect when fluid level is low.

Remove driveshaft / flange
5. Mark driveshaft/flange orientation relative to the yoke (for balance). Unbolt the driveshaft or prop yoke from the output flange and slide it back or remove it. Remove the output flange/prop yoke retaining nut/bolts and pull the flange off (use a puller if needed).
Theory: access to the seal requires removing the rotating mating part. Marking preserves balance and vibration characteristics when reassembling.

Expose and remove old seal
6. Remove any snap ring or retainer. Pry or cut out the old seal carefully using a seal puller or screwdriver — avoid gouging the seal bore or housing.
Theory: the old seal lip is the leaking element. Careful removal prevents damage to the sealing surface of the bore, which would undermine the new seal.

Inspect shaft and bore
7. Clean the shaft and bore. Inspect the output shaft journal where the lip runs for scoring, pitting, rust, or burrs. Rotate the shaft and inspect for runout or axial play. Light roughness can be smoothed with very fine emery/Scotch‑Brite; deep grooves require shaft repair/replacement or a sleeve.
Theory: the seal depends on a smooth, concentric shaft to maintain a continuous interference lip contact. Any groove or high spot will cut the new lip, causing immediate or early repeat leakage. Proper shaft condition is critical to the repair’s success.

Prepare and orient new seal
8. Confirm proper orientation of the new seal: the open lip/spring side faces the fluid (generally inward toward transmission). Lightly coat the sealing lip with clean ATF/gear oil.
Theory: the lip geometry is directional — the spring presses the lip against the shaft on the fluid side to keep fluid in; wrong orientation will not stop leakage. Pre‑lubrication prevents dry running and immediate wear at start‑up.

Install new seal
9. Using a seal driver or appropriately sized socket, seat the new seal squarely into the bore to the correct depth (flush or to the specified face). Tap evenly around the outer diameter until it is fully seated. Install any retaining ring.
Theory: the outer edge must be evenly supported and fully seated so the lip maintains uniform radial compression. Cocked or partially seated seals leak at the edge and wear unevenly.

Reassemble flange/driveshaft
10. Reinstall the output flange/yoke and driveshaft, using the marks made earlier. Torque the retaining nut/bolts to factory specification and secure any locking devices.
Theory: correct torque and alignment prevent axial movement and runout that can stress the seal lip or allow leaks past the flange interface.

Refill and check
11. Refill transmission/transfer to proper fluid type and level. Start engine/operate driveline and inspect for leaks. Recheck torque after a short run and again after initial road/run test.
Theory: operating pressure, temperature, and rotation reveal leaks and seating behavior. Rechecking ensures nothing has loosened and the seal is functioning under real conditions.

Follow‑up and when a simple replacement won’t fix it
12. If leakage recurs quickly, re‑inspect shaft condition, bearing play, axial shaft movement, or internal pressure build‑up (blocked breather). Repair or replace shaft/bearings or fit a repair sleeve as required.
Theory: persistent leaks usually mean the sealing surface or operating conditions (excessive shaft runout, high internal pressure, contaminants) remain incompatible with a standard lip seal. Addressing those root causes is necessary for durability.

How the repair fixes the fault (summary)
- What failed: the elastomer sealing lip lost its interference/contact with the rotating shaft (due to wear, hardening, cut, deformation, or incorrect installation), or the shaft/bore was damaged so the lip could not seal.
- What the replacement does: a new seal restores the correct radial interference and spring tension so the lip presses uniformly against a smooth, concentric shaft, stopping oil migration. Seating the seal correctly and controlling shaft condition eliminates the path the fluid used to leak through.
- When it won’t fix the leak: if the shaft surface is scored, the bore is damaged, bearings allow excess radial/axial movement, or internal pressure is forcing oil past the lip; these must be corrected or the new seal will fail quickly.

Quick troubleshooting tips (brief)
- Verify leak source with clean/operate method before starting.
- Always inspect and correct shaft surface and bearing play.
- Use the correct seal orientation and seat it squarely.
- Replace related gaskets/lock hardware; use factory torque specs.

That is the ordered procedure and the theory of how and why it fixes an output shaft seal leak on a Toyota 2F driveline.
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