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Toyota 2L-3L-5L digital engine factory workshop and repair manual

Summary theory (very short)
- The intake manifold gasket seals the intake ports (and on these L-series diesels often some coolant passages) between head and manifold. Failure = air or coolant leak. Air leaks let unmetered air enter, leaning/unstable combustion, poor idle, smokey or low power. Coolant leaks cause loss/contamination of coolant and overheating. Replacing the gasket restores sealing and corrects the manifold pressure and coolant paths.

Ordered procedure (concise, in-order; assume basic mechanical competence)

Preparation / diagnosis
1. Confirm fault: look for rough idle, loss of power, white/gray smoke, coolant loss or external leaks at manifold, audible hissing, or use a smoke/leak test to find intake leaks. Also check for EGR malfunction symptoms.
2. Gather parts/tools: correct intake manifold gasket for 2L/3L/5L, new O-rings or seals as required, torque wrench, extension/socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, drain pan, shop rags, gasket scraper/cleaner, anti-seize/threadlocker for studs if specified, coolant.
3. Safety: park level, engine cool, battery negative disconnected, wear gloves/eye protection.

Disassembly (in logical order)
4. Drain coolant if gasket seals coolant passages: drain to below intake manifold level into pan.
5. Remove air intake plumbing: air cleaner hose, snorkel or ducting to throttle/air inlet.
6. Label and disconnect vacuum and breather hoses from the intake manifold and EGR components. Mark connections so reassembly is exact.
7. Disconnect sensors and electrical connectors attached to manifold (MAP/EOT/TPS if present), and any vacuum actuators.
8. Remove EGR valve, heat exchanger or associated tubing if in the way (keep bolts/hardware together).
9. Disconnect fuel lines or fuel return lines only if they obstruct removal—note diesel systems may require loosening lift pump lines; follow fuel safety (no ignition sources). Cap lines to prevent contamination.
10. Remove linkage and cables that attach to the manifold (throttle linkage if present) and move aside.
11. Unbolt intake manifold from head: remove bolts/studs in a sequence that relieves stress—work from outer to center or per manual. Keep bolts/studs in order if lengths differ.
12. Lift manifold straight off. If stuck, tap gently—not pry across ports. Inspect manifold for cracks/warpage.

Preparation of mating surfaces
13. Remove old gasket material thoroughly: use plastic scraper and cleaner; avoid gouging head or manifold faces.
14. Clean bolt holes and studs; inspect studs/threads for damage. Repair or replace damaged studs/threads (Helicoil or new studs) before reassembly.
15. Check mating surfaces for flatness—use straightedge. If warped beyond spec, machine or replace manifold or head surface as required.
16. Inspect coolant passages for corrosion; flush as needed.

Installation (order and sealing theory)
17. Position new gasket(s) in correct orientation. Intake gaskets usually locate to dowels—ensure proper alignment so ports and coolant passages seal.
18. Carefully lower manifold straight onto the head without disturbing gasket alignment.
19. Install bolts/studs finger-tight, then tighten in a cross or center-out pattern in at least two incremental steps to final torque. Use the manufacturer’s torque sequence and final torque values (important). Typical method: snug all, torque to an intermediate value, then final torque in sequence.
20. Reattach EGR, sensors, vacuum lines, throttle linkage, fuel lines, air intake plumbing, reconnect electrical connectors. Replace any seals/O-rings you removed.
21. Refill coolant to correct level and bleed air from system per procedure.
22. Reconnect battery negative.

Testing and verification
23. Start engine and warm to operating temperature. Check for vacuum leaks (listen, spray a small amount of safe leak detector), coolant leaks, and proper idle. Monitor temperature and listen for abnormal noises.
24. Road test to confirm power and drivability. Recheck torque on manifold bolts after thermal cycles only if manual requires.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise, physical explanation)
- Restoring a seal: A new gasket fills the gap between head and manifold, preventing unmetered air entering downstream of the intake measuring device (or the point of air metering). That stops the engine receiving extra air, restoring the correct air/fuel ratio, stabilizing idle and power.
- Restoring pressure/vacuum: Intake vacuum is required for correct EGR/vacuum-actuated devices; sealing the manifold restores correct vacuum levels so those systems work again.
- Stopping coolant leak: If the gasket also seals coolant passages, replacing it restores coolant containment, preventing loss, contamination, and local hot spots that cause overheating or head damage.
- Restoring geometry: Proper torque and flat surfaces ensure even clamping so the ports are sealed uniformly; replacing warped or damaged manifold or studs prevents repeated leaks.

Notes / cautions (brief)
- Use the correct gasket type; do not use sealant unless manual permits. Over-torque or incorrect torque sequence can warp parts and cause repeat failure.
- Replace damaged studs/bolts; a cheap bolt can fail and lead to worse damage.
- Consult factory service manual for exact torque values and sequence for the specific engine variant.

That’s the ordered theory-plus-steps.
rteeqp73

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