- What this job is and why it’s done
- Replace the rear main oil seal that sits at the back of the crankshaft and prevents oil leaking between engine and transmission.
- On Toyota 3B / B / 11B / 13B diesel engines you must remove the transmission (or at least separate it from the engine) to access the seal. Expect several hours of work for a beginner.

- Safety first
- Safety glasses: protect eyes from debris and fluid.
- Mechanic gloves: protect hands and improve grip.
- Wheel chocks: stop the vehicle from rolling when raised.
- Fire extinguisher nearby when working with oil/grease.
- Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning.

- Basic tools you must have (with descriptions and how to use them)
- Ratchet and deep/shallow socket set (metric): for removing bolts and nuts. Use the correct size socket to avoid rounding fasteners. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts.
- Combination/open-end wrenches (metric): for bolts where a socket won’t fit. Use the correct size, pull toward you (not push) for control.
- Breaker bar: long non-ratcheting bar to break loose very tight bolts. Apply steady force; do not jerk.
- Torque wrench (click-type or digital): to reinstall critical fasteners to factory torque. Set to the specified value and tighten until it clicks or reads target.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Phillips): for clips, prying small parts. Use the correctly sized tip to avoid stripping.
- Hammer and dead-blow/rubber mallet: for gentle persuasion. Avoid metal-to-metal blows on machined surfaces.
- Pry bar(s): to separate transmission from engine and remove stubborn parts. Use controlled leverage and protect mating surfaces.
- Floor jack and jack stands (rated): to safely raise and support the vehicle. Always use stands; never rely on the jack alone.
- Transmission jack or second floor jack with blocking: to support and lower the transmission safely. A heavy gearbox is dangerous without proper support.
- Oil drain pan: to catch oil when removing the gearbox or when leaks occur.
- Shop rags and brake cleaner / parts cleaner: to clean mating surfaces and remove oil and old gasket material.
- Wire brush and gasket scraper: to clean sealing surfaces. Use gently to avoid gouging.
- Seal puller / hook tool: to remove old seal without damaging the crank or housing.
- Seal installer / seal driver set or correctly sized deep socket: to press the new seal evenly into the housing. Using a socket the exact outer diameter of the seal is critical to avoid cocking the seal.
- Punches and drift pins: to remove dowel pins or align parts, used carefully.
- Alignment tool for clutch (if manual transmission): to center the clutch disc when reinstalling flywheel/clutch. Prevents clutch misalignment and starter issues.
- Engine/transmission support bar or engine hoist (if required): to support the engine if engine mounts must be unbolted. Use an engine support to prevent engine tilt when the trans is removed.
- Light source (work lamp/LED): to illuminate the work area.

- Extra / specialized tools you will likely need and why
- Transmission jack (recommended, not optional): transmissions are heavy and awkward; a transmission jack allows safe lowering and precise alignment for reinstallation.
- Rear main seal installer tool or seal driver set: ensures the seal is pressed in square and to the correct depth; prevents lip damage. You can sometimes use a socket close to the outer diameter, but a proper driver is safer.
- Pilot bearing puller (for manual trans) or bearing driver: if the pilot bearing/bushing is worn it must be replaced; you’ll need a puller to remove it without damaging the crank.
- Thread locker (medium strength) and RTV gasket maker (if the housing uses a sealant): factory sometimes specifies sealant instead of a paper gasket.
- Crankshaft rear main flange sleeve (if crankshaft lip is scored) or oversize seal: if crankshaft rear surface is grooved, repair options include polishing, installing a sleeve, or using an oversized/repair-type seal. This determines extra parts.
- Service/repair manual for your exact engine and vehicle: provides torque specs, bolt patterns, removal sequence and clearances. Highly recommended.

- Parts you will need and why
- Rear main oil seal (OEM or quality aftermarket): required — the purpose of the job.
- Rear main seal housing gasket or RTV: seals the housing flange to the block — if applicable, replace to avoid leaks.
- Flywheel/flexplate bolts (optional recommended): many manufacturers specify replacing these once removed, especially torque-to-yield bolts or if they show stretching/corrosion.
- Pilot bearing/bushing (manual): if worn when you remove the clutch, replace to avoid clutch chatter and premature wear.
- Clutch disc/pressure plate (inspection; replace if worn): while you have the trans off, inspect the clutch; replacing a marginal clutch while you’ve already removed the trans can save labor later.
- Bearing seals, O-rings, or drain/inspection cover gaskets if disturbed during disassembly.
- Clean engine oil and a small amount of assembly lube for seal lip lubrication on fitment.

- Diagnosis to confirm you need the rear main seal
- Oil leak at the bellhousing joint, oil on the transmission face or clutch components, or oil dripping from the center rear of the engine.
- Confirm leak source before starting: clean the area, run engine briefly, and inspect to ensure the rear main seal is the leak source (not valve cover gasket, oil cooler lines, or camshaft seals).

- Step-by-step procedure (high level, beginner-friendly; follow factory manual for torque and sequences)
- Drain engine oil or at least be ready to catch oil when seal housing opens.
- Raise vehicle securely, chock wheels, and support with jack stands on solid points.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Remove exhaust parts, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder or release bearing assembly and any wiring or linkages obstructing transmission removal.
- Support transmission with a transmission jack; support engine with engine support bar or hoist if needed.
- Unbolt and separate transmission from engine; carefully lower transmission and move it back to access the flywheel/flexplate area. Keep an organized tray for bolts and label them mentally or with tape.
- Remove flywheel/flexplate bolts and the flywheel/flexplate (watch for heavy part). Inspect flywheel surface and pilot bearing.
- Remove the seal housing or the rear cover that retains the seal (some engines have a two-piece housing, others use a single lip seal pressed into bore). Note dowel pins/dowel locations.
- Use the seal puller / hook tool to remove the old seal. Work evenly and avoid gouging the crank flange or bore.
- Clean mating surfaces thoroughly with brake cleaner and rags. Use a wire brush gently if needed. Remove all old gasket or RTV residue.
- Inspect crankshaft rear flange for grooves, burrs, or corrosion where the seal lip rides. Light polishing with very fine emery or crocus cloth may be acceptable for minor roughness. Deep grooves mean the crank must be repaired or a sleeve/oversize seal used.
- If pilot bearing is worn, remove and replace it now.
- Lightly oil the sealing lip with clean engine oil or assembly lube. Position the new seal with the spring/lip oriented toward the oil (spring faces engine/inboard; lip faces outboard) — confirm orientation on the new seal packaging/manufacturer instructions.
- Use a seal driver or correctly sized socket to press the seal squarely into the bore until it seats to the specified depth. Tap evenly around the driver with a rubber mallet. Do not deform the seal; do not hammer directly on the seal lip.
- Install new housing gasket or apply correct RTV where specified. Reinstall housing and torque bolts to factory specs.
- Reinstall pilot bearing (if replaced) and flywheel/flexplate. Use new bolts if required and torque to factory specs in the correct sequence. Use thread locker if specified.
- Reinstall clutch/pressure plate and alignment tool if manual; ensure correct alignment. Reinstall starter.
- Carefully raise and align transmission using the transmission jack; slide onto dowels and bolt to engine. Torque all bolts to spec.
- Reconnect electricals, linkage, exhaust as removed.
- Refill engine with fresh oil as needed and inspect for leaks.
- Lower vehicle, reconnect battery, start engine and inspect around the seal and bellhousing for leaks. Recheck torque on bolts after a short road/test run if recommended by manual.

- How to use the key tools safely and effectively
- Torque wrench: set to specified torque; snug bolts by ratchet first, then use torque wrench to final value. Always reset torque wrench to lowest setting before storage.
- Breaker bar: use to break bolts loose, then switch to ratchet. Avoid using cheater pipes on ratchets.
- Transmission jack: center the gearbox on the saddle, secure with strap, raise/lower slowly and use guide blocks to align.
- Seal driver/socket: choose a driver/socket that contacts only the seal outer metal case, not the rubber lip; tap gently and evenly until seated.
- Pry bar: use wood or bent pry bars to protect surfaces; apply steady pressure and avoid prying on thin cast areas which can crack.
- Jackstands: place on manufacturer-designated pinch/weld points. Never work under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack.

- Common extra repairs you may find and why they matter
- Grooved crankshaft sealing surface: causes new seals to fail quickly; options are polish if minor, install a hardened sleeve, or machine the crank. This requires machine shop work.
- Worn pilot bearing or clutch components: if ignored, these will cause clutch slippage, noise, and rapid wear; replace while transmission is off.
- Corroded or damaged housing/bellhousing mating surfaces: may need cleaning, minor machining, or replacement of gaskets/RTV.

- Things to expect as a beginner and time estimate
- Expect 1–2 full days if you’re careful and working alone; more if you need special tools or find additional problems.
- Take photos during disassembly to aid reassembly.

- Final checks and test
- Torque check as per manual.
- Refill oil and run engine; check for leaks with engine idling and again after a short drive.
- Reinspect after 50–100 km for any seepage and retorque if specified.

- Quick purchase checklist for parts and tools before starting
- Rear main seal (correct part for your engine/vehicle VIN)
- Rear seal housing gasket / RTV
- Flywheel bolts (check service manual)
- Pilot bearing (if manual)
- Transmission jack (rent if you don’t own one)
- Seal driver set (rent if needed)
- Service manual for Toyota 3B / B / 11B / 13B (highly recommended)

- Final notes (no yapping)
- This job requires separating transmission; don’t attempt without a transmission jack or safe alternative.
- If crankshaft sealing surface is damaged you will need machine work or special parts — this is beyond simple DIY.
- Consult the factory service manual for exact torque values and any model-specific steps.
rteeqp73

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