Tools & consumables
- Metric socket & spanner set (8–24 mm), deep sockets, extension bars, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (range to at least 200 Nm)
- Transmission jack or engine hoist with transmission adapter
- Floor jack + 2+ axle jackstands (capacity rated)
- Clutch alignment tool (correct diameter for Toyota 3B family input shaft)
- Pry bar, rubber mallet
- Flywheel locking tool / screwdriver + assistant
- Needle-nose pliers, circlip pliers (if pilot bearing snap ring)
- Wire brush, brake cleaner, clean rags
- Thread locker (medium strength) or new bolts if OEM calls for single‑use bolts
- High-temp grease for release-bearing contact points
- Pilot bearing/removal tool (if pilot bushing needs replacement)
- Hydraulic fluid (brake fluid/DOT 3/4) or gear oil for transmission as required
- Replacement parts (see list)
- Shop manual or printout of torque specs (strongly recommended)

Replacement parts (recommended every clutch job)
- Clutch friction disc (correct model for 3B/3B/11B/13B)
- Pressure plate (clutch cover)
- Release (throw‑out) bearing
- Pilot bearing / pilot bushing (if present)
- Flywheel resurfacing or replacement (resurface at machine shop if reuse)
- New bolts for pressure plate/flywheel if OEM calls them torque-to-yield (use new hardware)
- Clutch fork boot, fork if worn, clutch cable or hydraulic slave/master (if worn)
- Transmission input seal / rear main seal if leaking

Safety & preliminaries (must do)
1. Park on level ground, engage park/1st gear, chock wheels on opposite axle.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Raise vehicle on jackstands — never rely on a jack only. Ensure stable support under frame.
4. Drain gearbox or remove drive shafts/propshaft as required so you can drop gearbox without fluid spill.
5. Support engine/transmission separately: use a transmission jack under the gearbox, and an engine support or hoist if transmission crossmember removal will let engine tilt.
6. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Avoid breathing clutch dust — use wet cleaning or HEPA vacuum, do not blow with compressed air.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Preparation and accessibility
- Remove air cleaner, battery tray, any obstructing wiring and engine covers blocking bellhousing/starter access.
- Label and disconnect linkages: speedometer cable, reverse light switch, clutch linkage (cable or hydraulic lines). Cap hydraulic lines to limit contamination and fluid loss.
- Remove starter motor (unbolt and tie aside). This gives access to several bellhousing bolts.

2. Remove prop shaft / drive shafts / linkages
- On 4x4 or RWD, remove prop shaft(s) from transfer/transmission. For solid axle propshaft, mark orientation for reassembly.
- Disconnect speedo cable, reverse lights, and speed sensor(s).

3. Support gearbox & remove mounts
- Place transmission jack under gearbox and take weight. Remove transmission crossmember and mount bolts.
- Unbolt any transmission-to-frame braces and the clutch slave cylinder or cable bracket (leave hydraulic lines connected and cap).

4. Unbolt bellhousing
- Remove bellhousing bolts gradually. Keep track of bolt locations (lengths vary).
- Carefully slide transmission rearwards off engine — input shaft should clear clutch. Use pry bar lightly if stuck; do not lever on engine. Guide with transmission jack to avoid dropping.

5. Remove clutch assembly
- With gearbox off, inspect clutch for contamination.
- Loosen pressure plate bolts incrementally in a criss-cross pattern to release spring tension evenly. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Note orientation of clutch disc (marked side faces flywheel/pressure plate on disc).
- Inspect flywheel surface. If scored/glazed/hot‑spotted, remove flywheel bolts and send to machine shop for resurfacing or replace if thin/warped.

6. Inspect/replace pilot bearing & release bearing
- Remove and inspect pilot bearing/bushing; replace if worn. Tool/press may be required.
- Replace release (throw-out) bearing. Lightly grease the bearing outer surface where it contacts the clutch fork pivot — do NOT pack grease on the bearing race or contact surface to the input shaft.

7. Flywheel prep
- Clean mating surface with brake cleaner; check for runout and warpage. If resurfaced, ensure it’s cleaned again.
- If reusing flywheel, torque flywheel bolts to spec in a star pattern. If bolts are single‑use, replace. Always follow factory torque sequence and values.

8. Installing new clutch (use of alignment tool)
- Mount new clutch disc onto the alignment tool so the tool protrudes into the pilot bore. Note disc orientation (usually "flywheel side" stamp).
- Position pressure plate over studs and slowly tighten bolts by hand so the alignment tool keeps disc centered.
- Torque the pressure plate bolts in a star/criss-cross pattern in several stages to final torque (use factory spec). The alignment tool holds the disc perfectly centered so the input shaft will slide in easily later. Remove alignment tool after torquing.

How the alignment tool is used
- The alignment tool is a dummy shaft matching the transmission input splines. Insert it through the clutch disc into the pilot bore before tightening the pressure plate bolts. It centers the disc so the gearbox input shaft will slide straight in. Keep it inserted the whole time you torque the pressure plate. Remove the tool before attempting to mate the gearbox.

9. Refit transmission
- Clean and lightly oil input shaft splines; do not contaminate clutch friction surface. Use the transmission jack to align the transmission input shaft with the clutch disc. Guide with back-and-forth small adjustments; do NOT hammer the gearbox home. The gearbox should slide on smoothly when the disc is properly centered.
- Once the bellhousing mates to the block, start and run the bellhousing bolts by hand, then torque to spec in the required sequence.

10. Reattach mounts, linkages & refills
- Reinstall crossmember, transmission mount, starter, propshaft/drive shafts. Reconnect speedo cable, reverse light switch, hydraulic lines (if removed).
- Refill transmission or differential fluids if drained. Bleed clutch hydraulic system if equipped: open bleeder, have assistant depress clutch pedal slowly until fluid flows free of air, close bleeder, top up master cylinder.

11. Adjustment & test
- If clutch cable, set free play per factory spec (small free play at pedal). If hydraulic, expect self‑adjusting on many systems; check pedal travel.
- With vehicle still on stands, start engine and test clutch engagement: engine rev, shift through gears with parking brake set to check smooth engagement and no noise.
- Road test: check for chatter, slipping, grabbing, noise, or difficulty engaging gears. Re-torque accessible bolts after initial break-in per manual (some recommend checking clutch cover bolts after first 500–1000 km).

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not supporting the transmission properly: always use a transmission jack; dropping it can cause injury and damage.
- Not centering the clutch disc: skip the alignment tool and the input shaft won't engage — you may damage splines or stall the gearbox.
- Reusing worn release bearing/pilot bushing: causes chatter/noise and early failure — replace both.
- Contaminating clutch surfaces with oil/grease: clean hands/tools and keep disc/pressure plate dry. If contaminated, replace the disc.
- Over/under torque of pressure plate or flywheel bolts: use torque wrench and factory specs. Uneven torque causes warpage or vibration.
- Forcing transmission onto misaligned disc: leads to input shaft/bearing damage. If it doesn't slide in with moderate pressure, remove and re‑check alignment.
- Not resurfacing a scored/warped flywheel: leads to rapid new-clutch failure and noise.
- Forgetting to bleed hydraulic system or adjust cable: leads to poor clutch disengagement, gear grinding.
- Reusing single‑use bolts: some flywheel/cover bolts require replacement—check manual.

Torque specs & verification
- Torque specs vary between models and years. Typical ranges (verify with Toyota workshop manual for your exact 3B/11B/13B application):
- Pressure plate bolts: commonly ~25–50 Nm (20–37 ft·lb) — verify exact value.
- Flywheel bolts: commonly ~80–140 Nm (60–100 ft·lb) depending on bolt grade.
Always use the factory torque sequence and new bolts where specified.

Break‑in procedure
- For organic clutch discs: avoid heavy load starts for first 300–500 km, use progressive acceleration to allow the clutch to bed in evenly.

Final checks
- Inspect for leaks around transmission input seal and clutch slave cylinder.
- Confirm pedal free play and smooth operation.
- Re-torque external accessible fasteners after short test drive if recommended.

Done.
rteeqp73

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Diagnosing a Check Engine Light w/ a PAPERCLIP! Toyota Land Cruiser 📎💡 In this #shorts, I read OBD 1 codes on my 1992 Toyota Land Cruiser!

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