Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Floor jack + 2–4 rated jack stands; wheel chocks
- Transmission jack (recommended) or heavy-duty floor jack + wood blocks
- Engine support bar or chain hoist (to support engine if transmission removed)
- Metric hand tools: 8–24 mm sockets, ratchet, extensions, wrenches, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (range to 150+ ft·lb)
- Clutch alignment tool (size for Toyota B-series spline, typically 22–25 mm OD) or universal
- Pilot bearing puller / slide-hammer (if replacing pilot)
- Pry bars, screwdrivers, pliers, snap-ring pliers
- Flywheel locking tool or large screwdriver/chisel + heavy glove
- Hammer, rubber mallet
- Brake cleaner / parts cleaner, lint-free rags
- High-temp moly grease (small amount for input-spline)
- Thread locker (Loctite medium)
- Drain pan, shop rags, gloves, eye protection
- New parts: clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout (release) bearing, pilot bearing (if applicable), flywheel resurfacing or replacement (or ring gear inspection), transmission input seal, engine/transmission mounts if worn
- Replacement bolts if specified as single-use (flywheel/pressure plate bolts often replaced)
- Transmission fluid or ATF, hydraulic fluid for clutch (DOT 3/4) if hydraulic system
- Service manual / OEM torque specs for your exact gearbox

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface; chock wheels; disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Never rely on a jack alone — always use rated jack stands.
- Support engine if transmission will be removed; do not rely on trans mounts alone.
- Drain fluids into proper containers and dispose per local regs.
- Wear eye protection, gloves; be careful with heavy components (transmission, flywheel).
- Keep combustibles away when using solvents.

Notes on interpretation
- Toyota B-series engines (B, 3B, 11B, 13B) are commonly mated to manual gearboxes. Below are two clear procedures:
1) Manual-clutch assembly removal/replace (most common)
2) If you mean an automatic transmission (torque converter/clutch packs) — high-level guidance and when to send to a transmission shop

A. Manual clutch — step-by-step (removal, inspection, replacement)
1) Prepare vehicle
- Park level, chock rear wheels, disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Raise vehicle, support on jack stands. Remove transmission access panels, if any.

2) Access & drain
- Remove driveshaft (or prop shaft) and secure out of the way.
- Drain transmission gear oil if required for clearance; place drain pan under gearbox.
- Remove starter motor for access to bellhousing bolts.

3) Disconnect linkage/hydraulics/electrical
- For cable clutch: disconnect cable at lever; for hydraulic: disconnect slave line (catch fluid) and plug line to prevent contamination.
- Disconnect speedometer cable or sensor, reverse switch wiring, and any ground straps between engine & trans.

4) Support transmission & engine
- Position a transmission jack under the trans; support with wood blocks.
- If necessary, support engine with an engine support bar or hoist before removing mounts.

5) Remove transmission
- Remove bellhousing bolts (inside and around the bell). Loosen crossmember/transmission mount bolts and any linkage/shift rods.
- Lower transmission straight back, easing it off the engine input shaft. Watch for caught wiring or coolant lines.
- Slide transmission clear and lower onto jack.

6) Remove clutch assembly
- With the trans removed, remove the pressure-plate bolts in a crisscross pattern (loosen gradually in several passes).
- Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Inspect flywheel for heat spots, scoring, and runout.

7) Inspect & clean
- Check pilot bearing/bushing and replace if noisy or loose.
- Check release (throwout) bearing and replace — always fit a new release bearing with a clutch job.
- Inspect clutch fork, pivot ball, slave/master cylinder operation; replace corroded or worn parts.
- If flywheel has hot spots or scoring, either resurface (shop lathe) to factory spec or replace. Check for cracks.

8) Prepare new components
- Compare old disc to new; ensure right spline count/size.
- Lightly coat input shaft spline with a thin smear of high-temp moly grease — do NOT grease friction faces or excessive splines.

9) Install clutch
- Fit clutch disc using alignment tool with the friction side facing the flywheel (usually labeled “flywheel side” or chamfer side faces pressure plate). Align centered on pilot bearing.
- Install pressure plate and hand-tighten bolts; torque in a star pattern to OEM spec in several increments.
- Use new pressure-plate bolts if required; use thread locker per manual where specified.

10) Reinstall transmission
- Clean input shaft and end-play area. Inspect transmission input seal; replace if leaking.
- Carefully guide transmission input shaft into clutch disc; use the alignment tool to keep disc centered while engaging.
- Once engaged to the engine, install bellhousing bolts and torque to spec. Reinstall starter.
- Reconnect slave cylinder/hydraulics, bleed clutch system (pump pedal while opening bleeder; follow manufacturer bleed sequence) until firm.

11) Final reassembly & test
- Reinstall driveshaft, crossmember, mounts. Refill transmission with specified fluid.
- Reconnect battery, start engine, with parking brake set test clutch engagement in neutral and then low-speed test drive. Check for noise, slipping, chatter.
- Re-torque accessible bolts after first heat cycle if recommended.

Common pitfalls on manual jobs
- Not replacing throwout bearing/pilot bearing — leads to premature failure.
- Contaminating disc or pressure plate surface with oil/grease — causes slipping/clutch chatter.
- Wrong orientation of clutch disc — always ensure labeled side toward flywheel.
- Misaligned clutch during transmission installation — makes mating difficult, can damage splines.
- Reusing worn or cracked flywheel — resurface or replace, check for runout.
- Failing to bleed hydraulic system properly — results in soft pedal/no disengage.
- Not supporting engine properly — risk of damage or injury.
- Reusing single-use bolts (flywheel bolts usually torque-to-yield) — use new.

B. Automatic transmission (torque converter / internal clutch packs) — guidance
- If vehicle actually has an automatic transmission (A/T), "automatic clutch" refers to torque converter and clutch packs inside the transmission. Rebuilding an A/T is more complex:
- You must remove the transmission, drain fluid, remove torque converter (mark orientation), separate trans case, disassemble valve body and drum assemblies, inspect clutch packs, seals, bushings, planetary gears and pump.
- Replace pump seal, torque converter seal, seal rings, clutch friction plates, steel plates, piston springs and any worn bushings or bearings. Measure drum bore clearances and friction thickness per manual.
- Reassembly requires correct piston-to-seal clearance, new friction plates, exact stack height, and new gaskets/line O-rings; many components are torque-to-yield or require special tools (clutch spring compressor, press, snap-ring tools).
- If you’re not experienced with A/T rebuilds, send to a transmission shop — improper reassembly leads to lost forward/reverse, slipping, or catastrophic failures.
- Use OEM rebuild kits and refer to service manual exact procedures and specifications.

Tools used — how they’re used (examples)
- Transmission jack: safely supports and raises/lowers transmission; use wood blocks to protect case and hold center of gravity.
- Clutch alignment tool: centers the clutch disc on the pilot bearing so transmission input shaft easily slides in.
- Flywheel lock / breaker bar: prevents flywheel from turning when loosening/tightening pressure-plate or flywheel bolts.
- Pilot bearing puller: extracts worn pilot bearing without damaging crankshaft.
- Torque wrench: tightens bolts in specified pattern and torque value to prevent warping and ensure secure fit.
- Engine support bar/hoist: holds engine while trans is removed; prevents engine tilt or damage to mounts.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout (release) bearing, pilot bearing/bushing
- Flywheel resurfacing or new flywheel, possibly flywheel bolts
- Transmission input seal, rear main seal if leaking/exposed
- Clutch fork/pivot or hydraulic slave/master if worn
- For automatics: torque converter pump seal, friction plates, steels, seals, filter, pan gasket, valve body gaskets, solenoids (if faulty)

Final tips
- Always follow the OEM service manual for torque specs and clearances for your exact gearbox model.
- Replace parts as an assembly — disc + pressure plate + release bearing — partial swaps often cause early failures.
- Keep all friction parts free of oil/grease; use breathable gloves and brake cleaner if needed.
- If any transmission internal work is required for an automatic, strongly consider a specialist shop unless you have A/T rebuild experience and tools.

That’s the practical procedure — follow the OEM manual for torque values and sequences for your specific Toyota B-series gearbox.
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