- Safety first (read and follow):
- Work only on a completely cool engine to avoid burns.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves, and long sleeves to protect from sharp metal and hot surfaces.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid accidental shorts.
- If you raise the vehicle, use a hydraulic jack plus jack stands on a flat surface; never rely on the jack alone.
- Work in a well‑ventilated area; exhaust work can produce dust and rust flakes.

- Purpose of the job in one line:
- Replace the exhaust manifold-to-head (or downpipe/manifold flange) gasket to stop exhaust leaks, restore correct backpressure and prevent fumes/soot.

- Typical parts you will need and why:
- Exhaust manifold gasket (specific to Toyota 3B / B / 11B / 13B): seals the joint between manifold and head or between manifold and downpipe. Always replace gaskets removed from exhaust flanges.
- Manifold studs and nuts or head bolts (if rusted/corroded): exhaust fasteners seize from heat/corrosion and often must be replaced.
- Exhaust flange gasket (if the flange to downpipe gasket is separate): replaces a leaking connection lower in the system.
- Thread repair kit / Helicoil or replacement studs (if studs are damaged or snapped): repairs damaged threads in the cylinder head.
- Anti-seize compound: helps prevent future seizing of studs/nuts.
- High-temp gasket sealant only if OEM service recommends (many exhaust gaskets are designed to seal without RTV).

- Tools required (detailed descriptions and how to use each):
- Socket set (metric) with ratchet and extensions:
- Description: set of metric sockets (8–24 mm commonly) plus 3/8" or 1/2" drive ratchet and 6–12" extension bars.
- How to use: select the socket that fits a bolt/nut snugly, place on nut then turn ratchet in short strokes. Use extensions to reach recessed bolts. Keep the socket fully seated on the fastener to avoid rounding corners.
- Combination wrenches (metric open-end/box-end set):
- Description: matched pairs of open and boxed ends (commonly 10–22 mm).
- How to use: use box end for maximum grip on stubborn nuts; open end where space is limited. Pull, don’t push, where possible for safety.
- Torque wrench (click-type, range ~10–150 ft·lb / 15–200 N·m):
- Description: adjustable wrench that clicks at a preset torque.
- How to use: set recommended torque, tighten bolts in stages to the torque. Final torque must match manufacturer spec (or a safe published value); tighten in an even sequence.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40 Specialist):
- Description: lubricant that soaks into threads and rust to free stuck bolts.
- How to use: spray on bolts/studs and let soak 10–30 minutes (or longer for heavily corroded fasteners). Reapply as needed and work the fastener back and forth.
- Breaker bar:
- Description: long non-ratcheting bar for extra leverage to loosen tight bolts.
- How to use: fit correct socket, apply steady pressure; don’t jerk. Use breaker bar if ratchet doesn’t turn a rusted bolt.
- Flat screwdriver and small pry bar:
- Description: screwdriver for removing heat shields, pry bar for gentle leverage.
- How to use: use to remove small clips, pry off old gasket carefully. Don’t use excessive force that could bend flanges.
- Gasket scraper or razor blade (metal or plastic):
- Description: sharp tool to remove old gasket material.
- How to use: hold flat and scrape parallel to surface to avoid gouging head/manifold. A plastic scraper reduces risk of scratching.
- Wire brush (handheld) and wire wheel (optional, drill-mounted):
- Description: brushes to clean rust/soot off mating surfaces and studs.
- How to use: brush mating surfaces until clean. For stubborn corrosion, use drill-mounted wire wheel carefully to avoid removing metal. Clean with solvent after brushing.
- Safety gloves and eye protection (already noted):
- Description: thick gloves and safety glasses.
- How to use: wear while handling parts and scraping to prevent cuts and eye injuries.
- Hammer and punch (small):
- Description: to tap stubborn studs/nuts loose or align holes.
- How to use: tap lightly only; avoid heavy blows that can damage the head or manifold.
- Magnetic tray or small containers:
- Description: bins to keep bolts/nuts organized.
- How to use: place removed fasteners in order and label or photo-document their original positions.
- Jack and jack stands and wheel chocks (if working under car):
- Description: hydraulic jack to lift, jack stands to support vehicle.
- How to use: lift vehicle with jack at manufacturer jacking point and place stands on solid points; lower jack gently onto stands. Always chock wheels remaining on ground.
- Flashlight or work light:
- Description: bright light to see tight engine bay areas.
- How to use: position to illuminate the work area; avoid placing on hot manifolds.

- Extra/optional tools you may need if problems arise (why they might be required and how to use them):
- Stud extractor / nut extractor set:
- Why: bolts/studs may be rounded or snapped; extractors bite into damaged nuts/studs so you can remove them.
- How to use: follow tool instructions—drill pilot (if needed), insert extractor, turn counter-clockwise to remove.
- Left-hand drill bits:
- Why: can remove seized studs by drilling into them; sometimes the drill turns the stud out.
- How to use: use with a drill at low speed; stop before generating excess heat. Use cutting oil and small pilot first.
- Nut splitter:
- Why: splits seized nuts to remove without damaging the stud or head.
- How to use: position over nut and turn screw to split nut, then lever it off.
- Thread chaser or tap/die set:
- Why: cleans or repairs thread damage in head or studs.
- How to use: choose correct thread size, run chaser/pull tap carefully by hand to restore threads—don’t cut new threads unless you know what you’re doing.
- Replacement studs (manifold stud kit) and new nuts:
- Why: heat/corrosion often ruins studs; replacement is simpler and safer.
- How to use: screw new studs in by hand, tighten to spec or use anti-seize and torque the nuts to hold.

- Step-by-step procedure (bullets, in sequence):
- Prep and inspection:
- Let the engine cool fully, disconnect the battery negative terminal.
- Raise vehicle only if required for access, support with jack stands, chock wheels.
- Take photos of the current set-up so reassembly is straightforward.
- Remove obstructions:
- Remove heat shields and any accessories blocking access to the manifold (intake braces, air cleaner piping, coolant lines if they obstruct—label hoses/clamps).
- For turbocharged variants, you may need to unbolt the downpipe or turbo housings first; keep track of gaskets.
- Apply penetrating oil:
- Spray all manifold bolts/studs and nuts; let soak. Reapply if they don’t move.
- Loosen fasteners gradually:
- Use the correct socket/wrench. Break nuts loose with a breaker bar if necessary.
- Loosen bolts in an alternating pattern, a little at a time rather than fully removing one then the rest—this helps prevent warping if you’re just loosening.
- Remove fasteners and take off manifold:
- Remove nuts and bolts, then carefully lower the manifold. If it’s stuck, gently pry at the gasket edges—do not force or twist hard.
- Support the manifold during removal; it can be heavy and awkward.
- Inspect manifold and head mating surfaces:
- Check for cracks, warping, heavy carbon buildup, or damaged bolt threads.
- Use a straightedge across the flange to check for warpage; if you don’t have tools, look for uneven gaps and physical signs of warping/cracks. Replace manifold if cracked or heavily warped.
- Remove old gasket and clean surfaces:
- Carefully scrape old gasket material with a gasket scraper; use a wire brush to remove remaining rust/soot.
- Clean with solvent (brake cleaner) and a rag; ensure surfaces are oil and residue free.
- Avoid gouging or scratching the head flange; light cleaning only.
- Address damaged bolts/studs/threads:
- If studs/nuts are seized or damaged, use penetrant and the appropriate extractor or nut splitter.
- Replace any broken studs. If threads in the head are damaged beyond cleaning, use a thread repair kit (HeliCoil) or have a shop re-tap and repair the threads.
- Install new gasket:
- Place the correct new exhaust gasket on the head or manifold. Ensure correct orientation and alignment with bolt holes.
- Do not use excessive RTV; most exhaust gaskets are designed to seal without sealant unless the manual specifies.
- Refit manifold and hand-tighten fasteners:
- Put the manifold back in position, start nuts/bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- If using new studs, run them in by hand and tighten the nuts onto them hand-tight first.
- Torque fasteners in stages:
- Tighten nuts/bolts gradually in an even crisscross pattern to seat the gasket.
- Use a torque wrench and tighten to the manufacturer specification. If you don’t have the spec immediately available, tighten in stages: snug all fasteners, then to roughly 25–40% of expected final torque, then 60–80%, then final torque. (Exact spec should be checked in a factory manual for your engine—this prevents over/under-torquing.)
- Reassemble removed components:
- Reattach heat shields, piping, sensors, and any brackets you removed. Replace any gaskets between manifold and downpipe if removed.
- Final checks:
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks (listen for ticking/hissing near manifold area) and check for unusual noises.
- After a short run and cool-down, re-torque fasteners if the manual recommends it.

- When full part replacement is required and why:
- Replace the exhaust manifold if:
- You see visible cracks or severe warping (will not seal properly and can worsen).
- Flange faces are so corroded they can’t be flattened or cleaned.
- Replace studs/nuts if:
- Threads are rounded, corroded, or the studs snap when removing. Exhaust fasteners are single-use in many cases due to heat cycling.
- Replace cylinder head threads / repair with Helicoil if:
- Threads in the head are stripped and can’t hold new bolts/studs. This is more complex and may need a shop if you’re a beginner.
- Replace downpipe or flange gasket if:
- Leak is at the manifold-to-downpipe joint rather than the head-manifold joint.

- Beginner tips and cautions:
- Take lots of photos during disassembly; it makes reassembly far easier.
- Label bolts/parts or keep them in ordered trays.
- If any fastener resists violently, stop and apply more penetrating oil and time—avoid applying excessive torque which might snap studs.
- If studs snap off flush with the head, that is a difficult repair: you will likely need a stud extractor or professional help.
- Do not exceed recommended torque; over-torquing can strip threads or warp the manifold/head.
- If unsure about torque specs or thread repairs, consult the Toyota service manual for your exact engine model or get help from a professional.

- Quick checklist of parts to buy before you start:
- Correct exhaust manifold gasket for your engine (3B / B / 11B / 13B) — buy OEM or equivalent.
- New manifold nuts and/or stud kit.
- Penetrating oil, anti-seize compound, and brake cleaner.
- Optional: thread repair (HeliCoil) kit sized for manifold studs.
- Replacement manifold (only if cracked/warped).

- Final note:
- If you encounter broken studs or stripped head threads and you are a complete beginner, consider letting a shop handle the thread repair or extraction—these repairs often require specialized tools and skill.
rteeqp73

TIPS - VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT ON TOYOTA B AND 3B DIESEL ENGINE Video show how to adjust valve clearances on a Toyota B/2B/3B diesel engine.

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Warning — safety first: this job requires working under a vehicle, lifting heavy parts, using a press/pullers, and correctly setting bearing preload/endplay. If you’re not comfortable with those tools and procedures, get a shop manual and/or a pro. Follow jack-stand and tool safety, wear eye protection and gloves. I’ll be direct and practical.

What the repair is and why it’s needed (theory, simple)
- Function: the input shaft transmits engine torque from the clutch into the gearbox. The input-shaft bearing(s) support that shaft so it can spin smoothly and stay centered relative to the gearbox’s case and countershaft.
- Analogy: imagine the input shaft is an axle and the bearing is the wheel hub bearing that lets the axle spin smoothly while holding it exactly where it should be. If the bearing goes bad the shaft can wobble, make noise, grind, or let gears mis-engage.
- Why replace: bearings fail from wear, contamination, poor lubrication, or shock loads. Symptoms: whining or growling from the gearbox (worse with load/engine speed), vibration, gear engagement problems, excessive input-shaft end-play, metal particles in gearbox oil, or a noisy bearing audible with transmission removed.
- What can go wrong if ignored: worn bearing damages the input shaft journal, bearing race in the case, synchronizers and gears; metal contamination accelerates wear; catastrophic bearing failure can jam the gearbox.

Major components you’ll encounter (with short descriptions)
- Clutch assembly (pressure plate, clutch disc): splines on the clutch disc slide onto the input shaft.
- Flywheel: mounts to the crank and mates to the clutch.
- Bellhousing: houses the clutch and provides the seat for the transmission to the engine.
- Transmission case (gearbox halves): houses shafts and bearings; usually split into two halves.
- Input shaft: splined shaft that enters transmission; it carries the primary gear and engages with the countershaft gears/synchros.
- Input-shaft bearing (single or multiple): roller/ball/needle bearing(s) supporting the shaft in the case or on a bearing retainer. Some designs use a single radial ball bearing plus an oil seal; others use needle bearings or tapered rollers.
- Bearing retainer / cage / race / snap ring: parts that locate and retain the bearing in the case/shaft.
- Oil seal(s): keep lubricant in and contaminants out where the input shaft exits the case.
- Countershaft / layshaft & mainshaft: mating shafts that mesh with the input gear and synchronizer assemblies.
- Shims/spacers/washers: small parts determining endplay/preload and axial location.
- Snap rings, circlips, roll pins: retainers used throughout the assembly.

Tools, equipment & consumables (minimum)
- Service manual for your exact gearbox — needed for torque specs, clearances, part numbers, sequences.
- Basic hand tools: metric sockets, ratchets, wrenches, screwdrivers.
- Engine/transmission support (engine support bar or jack with wood block) and sturdy jackstands.
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack and helpers.
- Snap-ring pliers, drift punches, hammer.
- Bearing puller or two/three-jaw puller; hydraulic press or arbor press.
- Bearing driver set or appropriate sockets to press bearings on/off by the race that’s meant to be driven.
- Torque wrench.
- Clean rags, brake cleaner or solvent, gasket scraper.
- New bearing(s), oil seal(s), any worn snap rings/shims, correct gearbox oil.
- Mild heating source (heat gun) for shrinking/expanding parts if needed.
- Plastic or brass drift — avoid hammering hardened surfaces directly.
- Dial indicator (for checking endplay) and feeler gauges (if required).

High-level job flow (overview)
1. Preparation & safety — gather tools, service manual, parts, put vehicle on stands.
2. Remove transmission from vehicle (separate from engine) — disconnect linkages, driveshafts, electricals, then unbolt bellhousing and slide transmission back.
3. Disassemble gearbox case — remove cover, drain oil, take out shift forks/gears as needed to access input shaft assembly.
4. Extract input shaft assembly — note orientation and keep parts in order.
5. Remove the bad bearing(s) — use puller or press, work on the race intended to be pressed.
6. Inspect shaft, races, and case bores — check for wear, pitting, runout.
7. Fit new bearing(s) and seals — press on correctly, ensure correct shim/spacer placement, measure endplay or preload per manual.
8. Reassemble gearbox, reinstall transmission, fill with correct oil, test.

Detailed step-by-step (beginner-friendly but assume mechanical basics)
Note: specifics (torques, endplay values, shim thickness) vary by transmission variant — follow your Toyota service manual for numbers and sequences.

A. Preparations
- Work on a flat level surface. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Lift vehicle securely and support on jack stands. Use wheel chocks.
- Support the engine if removing a transmission that normally bolts to it and the engine must not tilt. Use an engine support bar or a floor jack under an engine cradle with wood blocks under the oil pan (careful).

B. Remove the transmission (summary)
- Remove driveshafts/propeller shaft or half-shafts as applicable.
- Disconnect clutch linkage or hydraulic slave cylinder (drain hydraulic fluid or clamp line).
- Remove starter motor(s) to clear bellhousing bolts.
- Remove any electrical connectors, shifter linkage, speedometer cable/sensor.
- Support the transmission with a transmission jack. Remove the bellhousing bolts that attach transmission to engine. Slide the transmission straight back off the input shaft splines — you may need to separate the pressure plate/clutch or loosen alignment.
- Lower the transmission off the vehicle and place on a workbench.

C. Open the gearbox
- Drain gearbox oil, remove oil filler and drain plugs first.
- Remove bolts holding gearbox halves and carefully split the case. Keep track of dowel pins and case alignment. It helps to photograph/label bolt locations because lengths vary.
- Remove shift forks/detent pieces only as needed to extract the input shaft assembly. Keep a clean layout of parts in order to help reassembly.

D. Remove input shaft assembly
- With gears accessible, remove any snap rings, circlips, and thrust washers that retain the input shaft gear cluster.
- Slide the input shaft assembly forward/out of the case. It may be necessary to withdraw the countershaft first in some designs.
- Keep all components in the same order they came out and mark orientation.

E. Remove the bearing(s)
- Identify whether the bearing is pressed on the input shaft (inner race) or into the case (outer race). Determine which race is load-bearing and which you can press on.
- Use a bearing puller or press. If using a press, support the shaft so you press only on the race that’s meant to be driven (pressing on balls/cage will destroy the bearing).
- If the bearing is in the case, remove any snap rings and press it out from the inside with a driver or use a puller from the outside.
- Inspect bearing race seating surfaces on both shaft and case; clean away sludge, corrosion, and metal particles.

F. Inspect components
- Spin the input shaft on the bench and feel for roughness, scoring, or heat discoloration on journals. Check for runout with a dial indicator if available.
- Inspect the case bore where the outer race seats. If the race is damaged or the bore is worn or oval, it may need correction or replacement (this is a job for a machine shop).
- Check mating gears and synchronizer teeth for wear or broken teeth and check countershaft bearing condition too.
- Replace any damaged snap rings, washers, shims, or oil seals.

G. Install new bearing(s)
- Clean and lightly oil the shaft/case where the bearing will sit. Use the correct replacement bearing (same part number and bearing type).
- Use a bearing driver that contacts only the race you are driving. If installing inner race onto shaft, support outer race. If installing outer race into case, use a driver that seats the race squarely.
- If a press is not available, heating the case slightly (or cooling the bearing in freezer) can help; do not overheat (bearing grease and seals will be damaged).
- Press until the bearing seats fully; verify any snap rings or retainers seat properly.

H. Set endplay / preload & reassembly
- Reassemble the input shaft and gear cluster with new thrust washers/shims in the same order. Many transmissions require a specific shim thickness to achieve proper axial endplay. Measure with a dial indicator or feeler gauge per manual and adjust shims as needed.
- If your gearbox uses a bearing preload (tapered roller), install and torque the preload nut to specified torque and measure rotation torque or runout per manual.
- Reassemble the gearbox halves with new gasket or RTV as required. Torque case bolts to spec and ensure dowel pins are seated.
- Reinstall shift forks and linkages in the same orientation.
- Reinstall transmission into vehicle reversing removal steps. Align input shaft to clutch splines carefully; a clutch alignment tool helps.
- Torque bellhousing and other fasteners to spec. Reconnect linkage, driveshafts, starter, sensors, and the battery.
- Refill gearbox with recommended oil.

I. Testing and verification
- Before full road test, start engine and with vehicle on stands cycle through gears. Listen for unusual noise, feel for smooth shifting.
- Lower vehicle and take a cautious test drive. Check for leakage and proper operation.
- After a short run, recheck gearbox oil level.

Common pitfalls and what can go wrong (and how to avoid them)
- Driving on the wrong race to press a bearing: always press only on the race that is the press-fit surface. Pressing on the balls or wrong race destroys the bearing.
- Missing or improper shim setting: wrong input-shaft endplay causes noise, gear misalignment, and premature bearing wear. Always measure and set per manual.
- Contaminating the gearbox: dirt and grit will kill bearings; work cleanly and plug openings while working.
- Reusing damaged seals or snap rings: replace these every time.
- Overheating bearings when using heat: don’t exceed bearing temperature limits. Use an oven or heat gun carefully and only as recommended.
- Damaged case bore: if the bearing outer race groove is scored or oval, the race may not seat properly. This can require a replacement case or sleeve insert from a machine shop — don’t try to force a race into a damaged bore.
- Not checking mating bearings/gears: failing input-shaft bearing often means other bearings are fatigued — inspect the countershaft/mainshaft bearings too.
- Improper torque on preload nut (if applicable): incorrect preload shortens bearing life or makes rotation too stiff.

Quick troubleshooting checklist after replacement
- Noise returns immediately: likely wrong bearing installed/pressed incorrectly, race damaged, or wrong preload/shim.
- Whine at specific RPMs: possible gear wear/misalignment; check gear tooth condition.
- Rough shifting: could be wrong endplay or damaged synchros.
- Fluid contamination with metal shavings: flush and inspect all bearings/shafts; replace contaminated bearings.

Final tips (short)
- Get the factory service manual and follow its procedures, bolt torques, and clearance specs. Manuals often include exploded diagrams so you can identify small parts and shims.
- Keep parts organized and labeled as you remove them.
- If the case bore or shaft journal shows significant damage, seek machine-shop work or replacement parts — repairing worn bores is not a beginner job.
- If you don’t have a press and are unfamiliar with bearing-fit practice, consider sending the shafts/case to a shop for proper pressing and checking.

That’s the complete beginner-level walkthrough and the theory. Follow the manual for your specific Toyota gearbox for torque values, shim sizes, and endplay targets.
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