Goal: set the wheels so the car tracks straight, corners predictably, and tires wear evenly. Below is a clear, detailed beginner-friendly guide to suspension geometry (wheel alignment) adjustment for a Toyota (generic older/simple Toyota chassis — “B/2B” style systems are like many Toyotas). I’ll cover the theory, every common component you’ll encounter, step‑by‑step adjustment procedures, tools, safety, and what can go wrong. No fluff.

Quick analogy up front
- Think of the car as a pair of shoes on a person. If the toes point inward or outward (toe), the heels tilt (camber), or the foot is rotated forward/back (caster), the person walks poorly and the shoes wear weirdly. Alignment lines all four “feet” so the car walks straight and corners predictably.

1) Key components — what they are and what they do
- Wheel and Tire: contact patch, wear pattern shows alignment problems.
- Steering Knuckle/Spindle: holds the wheel hub; pivot point for steering.
- Hub/Hub Bearing: wheel rotates on it; must be free of play.
- Strut (MacPherson) or Shock+Upper Mount (if separate): supports vehicle height, provides camber control point on strut cars.
- Coil Spring / Leaf Spring / Torsion Bar: supports static ride height.
- Upper and Lower Control Arms: locate the wheel forward/back and control camber; bushings allow pivoting but hold geometry.
- Ball Joint: pivot between control arm and knuckle; wear causes play and alignment drift.
- Tie Rod End (inner and outer): connects steering rack to knuckle; primary toe adjustment comes here.
- Sway Bar / Endlinks: anti-roll function; if broken can change handling but not typically alignment adjustment points.
- Camber/Caster Adjusters (factory): cam bolts, eccentric bolts, adjustable strut plates, camber shims — these are the parts you actually move to change geometry.
- Subframe / Crossmember: holds suspension; if bent or loose, alignment can’t be fixed until repaired.
- Bushings (control arm, trailing arm, etc.): deteriorated bushings allow movement under load and cause alignment to change when driving.

2) The theory — what you measure and why
- Toe: angle that wheels point toward/away from centerline when viewed from above.
- Toe-in: fronts point slightly inward. Too much -> scrubbing and feathered tire wear.
- Toe-out: fronts point outward. Causes instability and excess wear.
- Why adjust: main effect on tire life and straight-line tracking.
- Camber: tilt of wheel when viewed from front/back.
- Negative camber: top of wheel tilts inward. Moderate negative helps corner grip; too much -> inner tire wear.
- Positive camber: top tilts outward; uncommon on front of passenger cars.
- Why adjust: affects cornering grip and uneven tire wear.
- Caster: tilt of steering axis forward/back (viewed from side).
- Positive caster: top leans rearward; improves straight-line stability and self-centering of steering.
- Why adjust: affects steering feel and returnability; caster changes don’t usually cause tire wear directly but influence handling.
- Thrust angle: the direction the rear axle aims relative to the car centerline. Should align with front centerline so the car tracks straight.
- SAI (Steering Axis Inclination), Scrub Radius, Bump steer: geometry features that affect steering feel and reactions; typically set by design and not adjustable without special parts.
- Ride height: changing ride height alters camber and caster; set ride height to spec before alignment.

3) Why this repair is needed
- Symptoms that prompt alignment:
- Car pulls left or right, steering wheel off-center.
- Uneven or rapid tire wear (feathering, inner/outer wear).
- Poor steering return or wandering at speed.
- Suspension components replaced (tie rods, control arms, struts, springs) — always align afterward.
- After hitting a curb/pothole or collision.
- If you align without addressing worn parts, alignment won’t hold and symptoms return.

4) Tools and equipment you’ll need
- Alignment rack & computerized alignment machine — best and recommended.
- If shop-limited: turn plates (or skate plates), camber gauge (digital preferred), caster gauge or angle finder, string/plate method, tape measure, straightedge.
- Floor jack and quality jack stands, wheel chocks.
- Torque wrench and appropriate sockets/wrenches.
- Pry bar, breaker bar.
- Tie-rod tools: adjustable spanner, crescent, inner tie rod tool if applicable.
- PB blaster / penetrating oil, wire brush.
- Marker chalk, paint marker, or zip-ties to mark original positions.
- Replacement parts and hardware if worn/stripped bolts found.

5) Pre-alignment inspection and prep (don’t skip)
- Tire condition and pressure: check and set to spec. Replace seriously uneven or bald tires first.
- Wheel bearing/play: spin wheel, check for noise/play.
- Ball joints and tie rod ends: check for play. Replace if any.
- Bushings and control arm mounting bolts: inspect for cracking, excessive movement.
- Strut mounts and springs: inspect for wear/sag.
- Rear axle alignment points and bushings: inspect for wear.
- Steering rack boots: intact and no play.
- Tighten any loose suspension bolts to torque spec before measuring.
- Set vehicle at correct ride height (measure per manual). If the car sagging, springs worn, fix that first.
- Fuel and load: align with typical load (normal fuel and driver weight).

6) How to measure (two common methods)
- Professional alignment rack: positions sensors on each wheel and software gives toe, camber, caster, thrust angle, etc. This is accurate and quickest.
- Basic shop method (string/tape/turn plate method):
- Use two parallel strings along car sides as reference; straighten strings with equal distance from wheel hubs.
- Use tape measures between string and wheel edges at front and rear of wheel to find toe.
- Use camber gauge against wheel face to read camber.
- Use caster gauge or run caster by known procedure (harder without proper tools).

7) Adjustment steps — a clear sequence
A. Preparation
- Park on level surface or use alignment rack. Wheels straight, steering wheel centered.
- Ensure proper tire pressures, ride height, and no play in components.
- Lock steering wheel centered with a strap or tape to maintain center while adjusting.

B. Set front toe (primary adjustment on most Toyota cars)
- Unlock the outer tie-rod jam nut (do not remove).
- Count or mark number of exposed threads so you can return if needed.
- Turn the tie-rod (both sides) equally to move toe toward spec. Shortening the tie-rod (screwing the outer in) usually causes toe-out; lengthening causes toe-in (depends on thread direction — mark and observe).
- Use turn plates under wheels if available; turn wheels full left/right to ensure no binding.
- Recheck toe after each small adjustment.
- When OK, tighten tie-rod jam nuts to manufacturer torque.

C. Set camber
- If adjustable by strut top plate (camber plates) or eccentric bolts on lower control arm: loosen bolts and rotate eccentric cam or plate to desired camber. On many Toyotas you adjust camber by moving strut top relative to body or using camber bolts on lower control arm.
- If no adjustment on front, camber is set by part geometry: worn control arm bushings or bent parts must be repaired.
- With adjustable control arm: push/pull control arm while tightening bolts to lock camber. Recheck after torquing because bushings move.

D. Set caster
- Caster is adjusted either by moving lower control arm mounting fore-aft (through eccentric/cam bolts), using caster plates, or via adjustable control arms.
- Adjusting caster will often change camber and toe — so do camber and toe iteratively until all are within spec.
- On some Toyotas caster is not adjustable except with aftermarket parts or shims.

E. Check thrust angle (rear-to-front alignment)
- Rear axle should be parallel to car centerline. Adjust rear toe or shims on the rear suspension until rear thrust lines up with front.
- On live-axle rear ends, use adjustable toe shims or relocation brackets if required.
- On independent rear suspensions, use toe adjusting bolts/eccentrics or adjustable arms.

F. Re-check everything
- After tightening all jam nuts and bolts to spec, re-measure toe, camber, caster, and thrust angle.
- Take wheels through full steering lock left/right and re-check (ensure no bind or bump steer).
- Test-drive for 5–10 miles, then re-check and re-torque if needed. Some bushings settle.

8) Typical spec ranges (generic, confirm in service manual for exact numbers)
- Front toe total: close to 0.00 to slight toe-in (0.05–0.20° total) or 0–3 mm total toe depending on units.
- Front camber: slightly negative to near 0 (roughly -0.5° to -1.5° on sporty setups).
- Caster: positive, usually 3°–6° (varies widely).
- Rear toe: near 0 but many cars have slight toe-in.
Note: These are ballpark values — always use the Toyota service manual for the exact model.

9) Special cases and components you’ll encounter on Toyotas
- Eccentric cam bolts on lower control arm: turn bolt to move arm fore/aft or in/out — used for camber/caster.
- Strut top bolts and slotted holes: loosen top mount bolts and move strut within slotted tower to change camber.
- Camber adjustment bolts (long bolt with offset washer): rotate washer to shift knuckle for camber correction.
- Shims under control arm/subframe: add/remove shims to shift axle alignment in some models.
- Adjustable tie-rod sleeves (aftermarket): make precise toe change easier.
- Aftermarket adjustable control arms or caster plates: used when factory parts lack adequate range.

10) What can go wrong — and how to avoid it
- Worn parts not replaced: alignment will not hold; replace tie-rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings first.
- Binding or seized bolts: penetrating oil, proper tools; don’t oxy-torch unless necessary — can damage bushings and bolts; replace damaged hardware.
- Overtightening or undertightening: always torque to spec. Loose jam nuts allow changes while driving; overtightening can shear studs.
- Stripped threads: if tie-rod or strut top threads are stripped, replace rod/bolt — do not use damaged threads.
- Steering wheel off-center after aligning both wheels to center: often caused by unequal tie-rod turns or steering rack centering not correct. Center the rack before final toe adjustments.
- Mis-measurement: poor measurement method yields bad results. Use a reputable rack or follow string/tape steps carefully.
- Bump steer after alignment: if toe changes through suspension travel because of wrong geometry or aftermarket parts, you’ll get bump steer. Check full suspension travel and tie-rod geometry relative to control arms.
- Thrust angle mismatch: if rear axle or subframe bent, alignment can’t be fixed without repair.

11) Final checks and tips
- Replace or repair worn parts first. Alignment fixes symptoms only if parts are good.
- Record the number of turns or mark positions so you can revert if needed.
- If you don’t have a rack, do the best you can for toe and camber, but consider a professional computerized alignment for caster and thrust angle accuracy.
- After alignment, drive 10–20 miles and recheck toe/camber; some components settle.
- Keep a log of settings for reference.

12) Safety
- Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use rated jack stands.
- Use proper PPE (gloves, eye protection).
- Be cautious with steering stops/locks; turning beyond stops can damage tie rod ends.

Summary (short): Inspect and repair worn suspension parts, set ride height, center the steering, measure camber/caster/toe, adjust using tie rods and cam/camber bolts/eccentrics, re-torque everything, test drive and recheck. Alignment makes the car safer, handles better, and prevents premature tire wear. If you don’t have a full alignment rack, focus on toe and camber and have caster/thrust checked professionally.

That’s the complete beginner‑friendly technical walkthrough — follow the steps methodically and consult your Toyota service manual for model‑specific specs and torque values.
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