Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, extension
- Combination wrenches (10–19 mm)
- Breaker bar or long-handled ratchet / 1/2" drive
- Torque wrench (up to ~100 Nm)
- Screwdrivers, pry bar (small)
- Belt tension gauge (or spring scale / tensiometer) OR ruler for deflection method
- Pen/marker or chalk for routing marks
- Penetrating oil (if bolts seized)
- Replacement drive belt(s) (OEM or exact size/rib count match)
- Replacement idler/tensioner pulley(s) if worn (recommended)
- Shop rags, gloves, eye protection
- Jack and stands or ramps (only if access requires lifting)

Safety first
- Work on a cold engine. Let engine cool completely.
- Park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal when working near alternator or electrical connectors.
- If using a jack, support vehicle on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Beware of stored spring energy in automatic tensioners.

Preparation / parts
- Buy the exact belt(s) by engine code or VIN; match length, profile and rib count. Replace idler/tensioner if noisy, rough, or has play.
- If the vehicle uses a manual adjuster (alternator pivot) vs. an automatic spring tensioner, follow the appropriate steps below.

Step-by-step — general overview
1) Document belt routing
- With engine off, draw or photograph the belt routing from the front. If there’s a decal, copy it.

2) Disconnect battery
- Remove negative terminal to prevent accidental shorts and to allow safe alternator movement.

3) Access and clear area
- Remove any splash shields or components blocking access (air cleaner snorkel, fan shroud if necessary). Use jack/stands if needed.

4) Relieve belt tension and remove old belt
- Manual-adjuster system (common on older Toyota B/2B):
a) Loosen alternator pivot nut (do not remove) and the adjuster bolt/nut.
b) Use a pry bar or the alternator adjuster bolt to move the alternator toward the engine to relieve tension.
c) Slip belt off an easy pulley (usually alternator or idler). Remove belt.
- Automatic tensioner:
a) Locate tensioner pulley (spring-loaded). Use the correct socket on the tensioner bolt or square hole on the tensioner arm.
b) Rotate the tensioner (direction depends on vehicle) with a breaker bar/wrench to relieve tension. Hold it in the released position and slide belt off.
c) Slowly let tensioner return — don’t let it snap uncontrolled.

How the specific tools are used
- Breaker bar / ratchet on tensioner: place socket on tensioner bolt and pull in the direction that compresses the spring. Hold it while removing belt.
- Pry bar on alternator: insert between alternator and block; use to pry alternator inward to loosen belt. Use caution to avoid bending or stressing alternator housing.
- Belt tension gauge: place over belt span at midpoint, apply force per gauge instructions, read deflection or tension. If using a spring scale, apply 10–15 lb (45–67 N) at mid-span and measure deflection.
- Torque wrench: used to re-tighten pivot and adjuster bolts to spec (see note on torque values below).

5) Inspect components
- Spin idler/tensioner pulleys by hand; check for roughness, play or noise. Inspect alternator and waterpump pulley for wobble.
- Check belt grooves for glazing, cracks, or oil contamination. Clean any oil/grease off pulleys; trace back source of contamination if present.

6) Replace pulleys if needed
- If idler or tensioner shows wear, replace now. Use socket to remove pulley bolt; install new unit and torque to manufacturer spec.

7) Install new belt
- Route the new belt per diagram. Ensure ribs seat fully in pulley grooves.
- Manual-adjuster: pivot alternator out and slip belt over alternator last.
- Automatic tensioner: use breaker bar to rotate tensioner, slip belt on, then slowly release tensioner to apply tension.

8) Set tension
- Automatic tensioner: once released, tensioner will set tension automatically. Verify deflection/tension per spec.
- Manual-adjuster:
a) Tighten adjuster bolt to push alternator outward until belt is near desired tension.
b) Use belt tension gauge or deflection method: apply 10–15 lb (45–67 N) at the longest span; target deflection ≈ 10–15 mm (3/8"–5/8") depending on belt length and type. If you have manufacturer specs, use those.
c) While pressure is applied to hold the alternator in position, tighten the pivot nut to secure alternator. Then tighten the adjuster lock nut. Recheck tension after tightening.

9) Final torque and checks
- Torque alternator pivot and adjuster nuts to factory spec if available. If unknown, tighten pivot nut securely — typically 30–50 Nm (22–37 ft-lb) for many alternator pivots; consult manual for exact values.
- Reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Start engine and observe belt tracking and noise for ~1–2 minutes. Look for rubbing, misalignment, slippage, or squeal.
- Recheck belt tension after warm-up and after first 50–100 km. Re-torque pivot if required.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Wrong routing: always document routing before removal.
- Reusing old belt: don’t — belts age and lose proper tensioning characteristics.
- Incorrect tension: too loose causes slippage and overheating; too tight causes premature bearing and accessory failure. Use a gauge or correct deflection method.
- Letting automatic tensioner snap back: hold tensioner while removing/installing to avoid personal injury and spring damage.
- Not checking pulleys: worn pulleys will destroy a new belt quickly—inspect and replace if rough or misaligned.
- Contamination: oil or coolant on belt will cause rapid failure. Fix leaks and clean pulleys before installing a new belt.
- Not tightening pivot while holding tension: alternator will move and belt will slacken; always secure pivot while maintaining correct tension.

Replacement parts recommended
- New drive belt(s) (exact OEM size / rib count)
- Idler pulley and/or tensioner assembly if bearing noise, roughness, or play detected
- Adjustment or pivot bolts/nuts if corroded/damaged (replace hardware if threads are poor)
- Optional: belt dressing is NOT recommended — it hides issues and shortens belt life

Quick checks after installation
- Belt centers on pulleys, no edge overhang.
- No rubbing on bracket edges or accessories.
- No squeal on startup; if squeal persists, re-check alignment and tension.
- Re-inspect after 50–100 km and tighten if necessary.

That’s it — follow the sequence, use the correct tool for the tension method on your vehicle, replace worn pulleys, set tension to spec, and recheck after warming up.
rteeqp73

TIPS - VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT ON TOYOTA B AND 3B DIESEL ENGINE Video show how to adjust valve clearances on a Toyota B/2B/3B diesel engine.

Upgrading toyota B engine intalled turbo td08-12 mods injection pump next mode Grooving! mods done Turbo td08-12 not yet done on oil supply injection pump mods next mod grooving pistons latter video is the mega ...

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