Tools & consumables
- Metric/SAE socket set + ratchet and breaker bar (for crank pulley).
- Combination/open-end wrenches (8, 10, 12 mm typical).
- Screwdriver or small hex driver (for adjusting screw).
- Feeler gauge set (metric preferred, 0.05–0.40 mm range).
- Small adjustable wrench or second open-end wrench to hold locknut.
- Torque wrench (for valve cover bolts; head bolts only if removed).
- Pliers, magnet, rags, parts tray.
- New valve cover gasket (always replace).
- Anti-seize or light thread locker (manufacturer allows).
- Clean solvent for degreasing.
- Gloves, eye protection.

Safety & prep
- Work on a cold engine (valve clearances are measured cold unless manual states otherwise).
- Park on level ground, set parking brake. Disconnect negative battery terminal to prevent accidental starting.
- Work in a well-ventilated area; keep flames/sparks away (diesel vapors).
- Keep dirt out of the head — clean around valve cover before removal. Use rags to catch debris.

Overview of method
- You will remove the valve cover, rotate the engine to each cylinder’s TDC (compression stroke), measure clearance between rocker tip and valve stem with a feeler gauge, and adjust with the screw-and-locknut on the rocker until the specified clearance is obtained. Repeat for all valves.

Typical valve lash specs (verify with factory manual for your exact B / 2B variant)
- Intake: ~0.20–0.25 mm (0.008–0.010 in)
- Exhaust: ~0.30–0.35 mm (0.012–0.014 in)
Note: Confirm exact spec in the Toyota service manual; specs vary by engine year/model.

Step-by-step procedure
1. Remove obstruction
- Drain nothing. Remove air cleaner hoses, any brackets blocking valve cover.
- Unbolt and remove valve cover(s). Pry gently; peel off old gasket. Clean mating surfaces thoroughly.

2. Clean and inspect
- Wipe away oil and debris. Inspect rocker arms, pushrods, and visible valve stems for wear, scoring, or excessive play. Replace parts showing obvious damage.

3. Set engine to TDC compression for cylinder to adjust
- Put socket on crank pulley bolt and slowly rotate engine clockwise to align timing mark to TDC on the crank pulley (use service mark on crank pulley/harmonic balancer).
- Confirm compression stroke for the cylinder you’re adjusting: both intake and exhaust rocker arms for that cylinder should be loose (no rocker action) when the cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke. If either rocker is moving, rotate 360° (one more turn) and check again until both are relaxed. Alternatively, remove the glow plug and feel/compress: on compression stroke you’ll feel pressure blow-back — use caution.

4. Measure clearance
- Determine which valve is intake/exhaust for that cylinder. Slide the correct feeler gauge between the rocker arm tip and valve stem tip with straight insertion.
- Gauge should have a slight drag when correct. If it slides too freely, gap is too large; if it binds hard or won’t fit, gap is too small.

5. Adjust clearance
- Loosen the rocker adjuster locknut a few turns (use two wrenches: one to hold the adjuster screw if needed).
- Turn the adjuster screw slowly while checking the feeler gauge thickness: turn clockwise (in) to reduce gap; counterclockwise (out) to increase gap.
- Set until the chosen feeler gauge has a slight drag. While holding the adjuster screw in position (don’t let it move), tighten the locknut firmly (use the wrench on the nut while preventing screwdriver/allen from turning the screw).
- Recheck the clearance after tightening — locknut tightening can shift the screw. Repeat fine adjustments until correct.

6. Repeat for all valves
- Rotate engine to TDC compression for each cylinder in turn and repeat measurement & adjustment for both intake and exhaust valves of that cylinder. Don’t adjust valves on the exhaust stroke.

7. Reassemble
- Clean gasket surfaces and install a new valve cover gasket. Fit valve cover, tighten bolts in a cross pattern to spec (snug; do not overtighten).
- Reconnect any removed hoses, brackets, and the negative battery cable.

8. Final checks
- Start engine and listen for valve noise. A correctly adjusted valve train will be quiet with slight ticking normal on some diesels.
- Recheck valve clearances after first 100–300 miles (or 100–500 km) and again if noise persists.

How the tools are used (quick)
- Feeler gauge: insert between rocker tip and valve stem. Choose blade that gives slight drag.
- Small screwdriver/hex on adjuster: used to turn screw while feeler gauge maintains gap.
- Open-end wrench on locknut: hold nut while preventing screw from turning.
- Breaker bar on crank pulley: used to turn engine slowly to TDC.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Adjusting on the wrong stroke: ensure cylinder is at TDC compression (both rockers slack). If you adjust on exhaust stroke, clearance will be wrong.
- Tightening locknut changes the gap: always recheck after tightening; hold the screw steady while torquing nut.
- Using the wrong feeler thickness or a bent gauge: use a calibrated, undamaged gauge; don’t estimate by sight.
- Working on a hot engine: specs are for cold. Heat changes clearances.
- Dirt into the head when valve cover is off: clean around cover before opening; keep rags in openings.
- Overtightening valve cover bolts: can warp cover or crush gasket. Use correct torque.
- Failing to replace old valve cover gasket: leads to oil leaks and contamination.

When replacement parts / further work is required
- Replace valve cover gasket every time you remove the cover.
- Replace pushrods, rocker arms, or tappets if bent, worn, or scored — these change lash and can’t be reliably adjusted.
- If you see excessive valve stem play, burnt valves, or oil consumption, head removal and valve job (valve seats, guides, seals) will be required. That is a larger job — check head bolt torque and timing components if you go that far.
- If locknuts or adjuster screws are rounded/damaged, replace them; they won’t hold correctly.

Quick troubleshooting
- Persistent loud tapping after adjustment: recheck clearances; check rocker/pushrod wear; check for broken spring or collapsed hydraulic component (if present).
- One valve consistently out of spec after tightening locknut: replace locknut/adjuster if threads are worn or use a small dab of appropriate thread locker if manual allows.

That’s the complete, practical procedure. Follow factory spec clearances and torque figures where available; replace the valve cover gasket and any worn rocker/pushrod parts you find.
rteeqp73

First start of toyota B after 10 years B engine test run 1/2 Pls hit subscribe for more videos like this**

Upgrading toyota B engine intalled turbo td08-12 mods injection pump next mode Grooving! mods done Turbo td08-12 not yet done on oil supply injection pump mods next mod grooving pistons latter video is the mega ...

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