Toyota 1KZ-TE engine factory workshop and repair manual download

Short, ordered procedure with the theory behind each action and why the repair cures bearing faults. I’ll cover both common bearing types you’ll encounter on 1KZ‑TE vehicles (sealed hub assembly vs serviceable tapered/ball bearings) and note the differences where they matter.

Preparation / diagnosis (theory first)
1. Confirm bearing is the problem.
- Action: Check for play with the wheel off the ground (grip 12 and 6 o’clock, rock it; spin wheel for roughness/noise; feel hub heat after a drive; note ABS warnings or vibration).
- Theory: Worn bearings produce radial or axial play, rough/metallic noise when rollers race on damaged races, and heat from increased friction. ABS sensor errors can result from a damaged tone ring or excessive hub runout.

Common tools/supplies (brief)
- Jack, stands, wheel chocks, torque wrench, sockets, breaker, pry bar, punch/hammers, bearing puller/hub puller or press, torch/heater if rusted, grease (if serviceable), new hub or bearing, new axle nut/cotter pin, brake cleaner.

Removal / disassembly (ordered steps with theory)
2. Secure and lift vehicle; remove wheel.
- Action: Chock, jack, and support on stands, remove wheel.
- Theory: Stable, safe access. Removing wheel lets you inspect brakes, hub, and ABS components.

3. Remove brake caliper and rotor; support caliper.
- Action: Unbolt caliper, hang with wire; remove pads and rotor (remove caliper bracket if needed).
- Theory: Gives access to hub/axle interface. Keeps caliper safe and prevents line damage.

4. Remove axle nut and any hub retaining hardware.
- Action: Break and remove the central axle/hub nut (may be castle nut with cotter pin), and unbolt hub-to-knuckle bolts if applicable.
- Theory: The axle nut preloads the bearing (tapered type) or secures the axle through the hub. Removing it frees the hub assembly so the bearing can be removed.

5a. If hub is a sealed one-piece unit (most late-model Toyota fronts):
- Action: Unbolt hub assembly from knuckle and withdraw entire hub (may need puller). Disconnect ABS tone ring sensor wire if integrated.
- Theory: Sealed hub assemblies have internal, preloaded bearings and are replaced as a unit. Removing the assembly removes the worn rolling elements and races and replaces them with a pre-set, correctly preloaded unit.

5b. If hub uses serviceable tapered/ball bearings (older style):
- Action: Remove dust cap, cotter pin, spindle nut, then slide off hub to expose inner/outer bearings and races. Use puller/press to extract races if replacing races.
- Theory: Tapered bearings require cleaning, inspection, re-greasing or replacement of rollers and races. Correct preload is set by the spindle nut and lock device.

Cleaning and inspection (theory)
6. Clean mating surfaces, inspect spindle/knuckle, ABS tone ring, and driveshaft splines.
- Action: Wire-brush rust from knuckle face, check spindle for pitting, inspect ABS ring for damage.
- Theory: New bearings need a true seat and undamaged mating surfaces. Pitting or warped knuckles transfer loads and can induce premature failure or ABS errors.

Installation (ordered with theory)
7a. Install a new sealed hub assembly:
- Action: Position new hub in knuckle, align bolt holes, tighten hub bolts to factory torque, reconnect ABS wiring, reinstall rotor, caliper, wheel.
- Theory: The hub is preloaded and aligned by the factory. Tightening to correct torque secures the hub flange so load is carried correctly by the bearing assembly, restoring smooth rotation and correct ABS gap/runout.

7b. Install serviceable bearings:
- Action: If races required, press in new races. Pack bearings with correct grease (or use new pre-greased bearings). Install outer bearing, inner bearing, and hub. Tighten spindle nut to set preload: tighten to seat, back off specified amount, then tighten to final spec while spinning and checking endplay; secure with cotter pin or lock.
- Theory: Bearing preload eliminates axial play while allowing free rotation. Proper grease ensures lubrication film between rollers and raceways; correct seating of races ensures load is distributed properly. Over- or under-preload causes noise, heat, or early failure.

8. Re-torque critical fasteners to factory specs.
- Action: Torque axle nut, hub bolts, caliper bracket, wheel lug nuts to OEM values; replace cotter pins.
- Theory: Correct torque maintains preload and clamp load. Under-torque lets bearing move and wear; over-torque can crush seals or over-preload bearings.

Final checks (theory)
9. Spin wheel by hand; check for smoothness and no play.
- Action: Rotate wheel; listen/feel for roughness. Check ABS sensor clearance if present.
- Theory: A good bearing runs quietly and smoothly with negligible axial/radial play. Any roughness indicates installation or part defect.

10. Lower vehicle, road test, recheck torque and play after initial miles.
- Action: Short road test at various speeds to verify noise, vibration, ABS behavior. Re-inspect nuts and cotter pins.
- Theory: New bearings settle; re-torque and recheck ensures preload stayed correct and there’s no early loosening.

How the repair fixes the fault (concrete mapping)
- Noise and roughness: worn rollers/races produce metallic or humming noise; replacing bearing removes damaged rolling elements and races and restores correct rolling contact geometry.
- Play/vibration: axial or radial looseness comes from worn clearances; setting correct preload or installing a new preloaded hub removes play and restores wheel stability.
- Heat/excess friction: damaged surfaces and grease breakdown raise friction; new bearings and proper grease reduce friction and heat.
- ABS errors/vibration: bent or damaged tone rings or hub runout cause incorrect wheel speed signals; replacing hub or correcting seating restores proper tone ring geometry and ABS signal integrity.
- Uneven tire wear/steering pull: hub/bearing play changes wheel alignment under load; fixing bearings restores consistent positional control and stops wandering.

Variations & cautions (brief)
- Some 1KZ vehicles use sealed hub assemblies — replacement is quicker and recommended when bearings are sealed. Other older models use tapered bearings requiring packing and preload—follow the spindle nut endplay procedure exactly.
- Always use OEM torque values and replacement cotter pins. Don’t reuse rusted/rounded axle nuts or damaged hub bolts.
- If the spindle or knuckle is damaged/pitted, replacing just the bearing may lead to premature failure—machine or replace the damaged component.

That’s the ordered procedure with the mechanical theory at each step and a direct explanation of how the repair corrects the symptoms.
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