Tools & consumables (minimum)
- Floor jack, 2 quality jack stands (rated), wheel chocks
- 1/2" drive & 3/8" drive ratchets, breaker bar
- Metric socket set (10–32 mm), deep and impact sockets for axle/hub nut
- Torque wrench (range to at least 200 ft·lb)
- Impact wrench (optional but speeds removal)
- Pry bar, large screwdriver
- Ball-joint separator / tie-rod puller (pickle fork or puller)
- Hammer, brass drift
- Hub puller / slide hammer (if hub stuck)
- Hydraulic press or bearing driver set (if replacing pressed-in wheel bearing)
- Snap-ring pliers (if bearing retained by C-clip)
- Allen/hex keys and Torx as required
- Needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, bench vise (handy)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster), anti-seize, grease
- New cotter pins, axle nut (recommended new), anti-seize
- Replacement parts: knuckle (if cracked/bent), hub/bearing assembly or wheel bearing, lower/upper ball joint(s) and tie-rod end(s) if worn, hub bolts/strut-to-knuckle bolts if damaged
- Safety gear: gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection

Safety first (non-negotiable)
- Work on level ground. Chock rear wheels and set parking brake.
- Never rely on the jack alone — always use rated jack stands under OEM lift points or strong control arm/subframe points.
- Support the lower control arm or axle with a secondary jack/stand before separating ball joints or CV axles to prevent sudden drop.
- If using a press or impact tools, wear eye and hearing protection.
- If you disconnect brake lines, be ready to contain fluid and bleed the system afterward.

Step-by-step procedure (front suspension knuckle replacement/repair)
Note: This covers typical Nissan front knuckle service (KA24E / VG30E era vehicles). Always confirm fastener locations and service manual procedures for your specific model.

1) Preparation
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while car is on ground.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack, place on jack stands, remove wheel.
- Spray penetrating oil on axle nut, strut-to-knuckle bolts, control-arm/ball-joint nuts, tie-rod end nut. Let soak.

2) Remove brake components
- Remove caliper bolts and hang caliper out of the way with a hook or wire (do not let it hang by brake hose).
- Remove brake rotor. If rotor is stuck, use penetrating oil and/or a slide hammer via threaded holes (if present).
- Remove ABS sensor and wire from knuckle (take care not to damage tone ring).

3) Remove tie rod end from knuckle
- Remove cotter pin and nut at tie rod end.
- Use a tie-rod puller or ball-joint separator to separate the stud from the knuckle. Use a puller (preferred) rather than a pickle fork to avoid damaging the steering arm.
- Mark steering tie orientation if reusing.

4) Support control arm / axle
- Place a jack under the lower control arm (or transmission crossmember for transaxle) to support and prevent sudden drop when separating joints.

5) Separate lower ball joint / upper ball joint (as applicable)
- Remove cotter pins and nuts for lower (and upper if applicable) ball joint.
- Use a press or ball-joint separator to separate the ball joint stud from the knuckle. If using a pickle fork, know it will likely damage the rubber boot and you will need to replace the ball joint or boot.
- Do not let the control arm swing down uncontrolled. Support with jack.

6) Remove axle from hub (if front drive axle present)
- Remove axle nut (impact wrench or breaker bar). Keep the hub from turning with a pry bar or by applying parking brake on rear wheels while an assistant holds the brake.
- If axle is stuck in hub, place a wood block against the hub and strike with hammer, or use a slide hammer/hub puller. Support the axle so CV joint is not overstressed when it separates.
- Push axle out of hub enough to clear knuckle. Do not yank; support CV joint to avoid damaging boot.

7) Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts & knuckle removal
- Remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts (usually two large bolts). These may have nuts on the back; hold with appropriate wrench.
- Remove any ABS bracket or brake line bracket attached to knuckle.
- Pull knuckle free from spindle/hub assembly and control arm ball joint (it should be free after joints separated). If stuck, gently tap with a brass drift, not the knuckle face.

8) Inspect / Repair or replace
- Inspect knuckle for cracks, bends, stripped bolt holes, mounting surfaces. If bent/cracked, replace knuckle.
- If wheel bearing is bad, either replace pressed-in bearing or the hub bearing assembly. For pressed bearings:
- Remove snap ring (if present).
- Use hydraulic press with appropriate adapters to press the bearing out from the knuckle. Keep force square and use support plates under knuckle.
- Clean bore and press in new bearing evenly to the correct depth. Install snap ring if used.
- If hub assembly is a bolt-in unit, unbolt hub from knuckle and replace with new hub assembly. Torque hub bolts to OEM spec.
- Replace ball joints and tie rod ends if boots torn or play detected. If ball joint is pressed into control arm, press out and press new one in per manual.

Tool usage notes
- Ball-joint separator/puller: place puller so screw bears on the stud and the fork presses on the knuckle arm. Tighten the screw slowly and the tapered head will pop the stud free. Using a hammer/pickle fork cuts the boot — only use if you will replace the joint/boot.
- Slide hammer/hub puller: attach to hub (or threaded holes) and pull evenly to free stuck hub from axle flange.
- Hydraulic press for bearings: use plates/support to press bearing straight out. Always press on the outer race when removing and on the inner race when installing (or use a driver that presses on the proper race specified by bearing manufacturer). Mis-pressing will damage the bearing.
- Torque wrench: clean threads, apply light oil or specified thread locker/anti-seize as manual indicates. Torque to OEM spec in sequence. Tighten fasteners in stages to avoid misalignment.

Reassembly (reverse order) — key points
- Clean all mating surfaces, remove burrs, apply anti-seize to splines if recommended.
- If you pressed in a new bearing/hub, ensure snap ring and seals are seated.
- Install knuckle onto strut and loosely fit bolts, then install control arm/ball joint studs and torque to OEM spec in proper sequence.
- Reinstall axle into hub fully and torque axle nut to OEM spec (replace axle nut with new if recommended). If a new nut is torque-to-yet-drive or requires cotter pin, follow procedure.
- Reinstall rotor, caliper, ABS sensor and connectors.
- Reinstall tie rod nut, install new cotter pin if applicable.
- Torque all fasteners to factory specs. If using aftermarket parts that require specific torque sequence, follow instructions.
- Lower vehicle, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.
- Check & bleed brakes only if brake lines or caliper were disconnected.

Post-repair checks
- Double-check torque on all suspension fasteners after initial 100–200 miles.
- Inspect ABS sensor and tone ring alignment/function.
- Wheel alignment required after knuckle removal/ball joint replacement — do not skip.
- Road test at low speed then gradually increase to verify no noise, vibration, or pulling.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Do not work with the car supported only by the jack — always use stands.
- Letting control arm drop: always support arm with jack to avoid sudden stress on hoses/CV joints.
- Damaging CV boot by prying/pulling: support the axle and use correct puller; avoid twisting CV joint.
- Using a pickle fork on a serviceable ball joint: it damages the boot; use puller/separator if you intend to reuse.
- Pressing bearings incorrectly: pressing on the wrong race will ruin the bearing. Use correct cup/adapters and press straight.
- Reusing cotter pins, bent nuts, or damaged fasteners: always replace cotter pins and replace any bolt/nut that shows stretch or thread damage.
- Skipping alignment: causes uneven tire wear and poor handling.
- Not replacing axle nut or using a reused nut beyond spec: axle nut is critical for bearing preload — replace if manufacturer recommends.

Replacement parts recommended
- Knuckle (if cracked/bent)
- Wheel bearing or hub assembly (if rough/worn)
- Ball joint(s) and tie-rod end(s) if boot damaged or play present
- New axle nut and cotter pins
- New fasteners if original are damaged or manufacturer recommends one-time-use bolts
- Brake hardware if corroded

Final notes
- Use the vehicle OEM service manual for exact torque values, fastener sequences, and any model-specific quirks.
- If you are not confident with pressing bearings or handling suspension geometry, have the knuckle/bearing pressed or installed by a shop and always get a professional alignment after reassembly.
rteeqp73

Nissan ect causing a misfire engine coolant temp sensor causing misfires at steady throttle and erratic idle.

Nissan Hardbody Buyer's Guide (Common Problems, Options, Specs) Nissan Hardbody Truck Buyer's Guide! The history of the Nissan or Datsun pickup - the original truck had a 37 hp 1000cc engine ...

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