Toyota 1KZ-TE engine factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- DOT-spec brake fluid (Toyota: DOT3 or DOT4 per spec; DOT4 preferred if system compatible) — buy 1 L for a full flush.
- Brake bleeder tool (preferred: pressure bleeder 15–30 psi). Alternatives: hand vacuum bleeder or clear tubing + catch bottle for two-person bleeding.
- 8–11 mm open-end or flare (line) wrench for bleed nipples (most Toyotas use 10 mm; use correct size).
- Clear vinyl hose (internal dia ~6 mm) long enough to reach catch bottle.
- Catch bottle and clean new fluid for topping up.
- Small syringe or turkey-baster to remove old fluid from reservoir before refilling.
- Jack, jackstands, wheel chocks.
- Wheel lug wrench or impact, torque wrench for wheels.
- Shop rags, plastic sheet to protect paint.
- Nitrile gloves, safety glasses.
- Wire brush or brake cleaner for cleaning nipples.
- Replacement small parts (if needed): bleed-screw caps, replacement bleed nipples, copper crush washers for banjo bolts (if you remove lines), new flexible hoses if cracked.
- Optional: scan tool capable of cycling ABS (if vehicle has ABS).

Safety precautions (no nonsense)
- Work on level ground, engine off, parking brake engaged, wheels chocked.
- Support vehicle on jackstands — never rely on jack only.
- Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and rubber. Wear gloves/eye protection, immediately wipe spills and rinse with water if paint is affected.
- Keep reservoir cap area clean; don’t let dirt or moisture enter reservoir.
- Never mix brake fluids with different DOT specs unless manufacturer allows — don’t mix DOT3 and DOT5.1? (DOT5 is silicone — never mix with DOT3/4).
- Maintain reservoir level during bleeding — never let it run dry (that sucks air into the master cylinder).
- Use the correct wrench to avoid rounding bleed nipples. Open only 1/4–1/2 turn when bleeding; don’t remove nipples.
- Properly dispose of used fluid per local hazardous-waste rules.

Preparation
1. Park level, chock front wheels (if you’ll start at rear), set parking brake.
2. Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly, jack vehicle and support on stands, remove wheels as needed for access.
3. Clean around master cylinder reservoir cap and remove cap. Remove old fluid from reservoir with syringe/turkey baster down to about half full (or lower — but keep some to avoid exposing master cylinder internals). Clean cap and screen if present.
4. Fill reservoir with fresh fluid (do not overfill above max line). Keep a supply of fresh fluid on hand.

Bleeding sequence
- General rule: start with wheel farthest from the master cylinder and move to nearest. For many Toyotas that is: rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver — but confirm factory sequence if you can. If ABS present, bleeding the ABS unit may require special procedure (see below).

Bleeding methods (pick one)

A) Pressure bleeder (recommended, single tech)
1. Fit pressure bleeder reservoir cap or adapter per tool instructions and pressurize to 15–30 psi.
2. Attach clear hose to the bleed nipple at the chosen wheel; place the other end in a catch bottle partially filled with fresh fluid so the hose end is submerged (prevents air re-entry).
3. Crack the bleed screw 1/4 turn; allow fluid to flow until clear and free of bubbles. Keep reservoir topped up.
4. Close bleed screw, tighten to snug. Typical bleed screw torque is low — approx 8–12 Nm (6–9 lb·ft) — do not over-torque. Wipe area clean.
5. Repeat at next wheel following sequence.
6. After all wheels, pump brake pedal to check firmness. Top off reservoir to MAX. Clean and reinstall cap, wheels, lower car, torque wheels to spec.

How the pressure tool is used: it pressurizes the master cylinder reservoir so fluid is forced through lines, pushing out air from each caliper/wheel cylinder. It allows one-person operation and reduces pedal-stroke pumping that can pull air into master cylinder.

B) Vacuum bleeder (single tech)
1. Attach vacuum pump to bleed nipple with clear hose; start pump to create vacuum.
2. Crack screw 1/4 turn. Pump until fluid runs clean and bubble-free.
3. Close bleed screw, stop vacuum, move to next wheel. Keep reservoir topped up.

How vacuum tool is used: vacuum pulls fluid and air out through the nipple into the catch container. Maintain a small vacuum; avoid sucking old fluid back into reservoir.

C) Two-person (manual) bleeding
1. One person pumps brake pedal 3–5 times and holds pedal down.
2. Second person opens bleed screw ~1/4 turn until fluid runs clear, then closes screw.
3. Release pedal only after screw is fully closed. Repeat until pedal is firm and no bubbles.
4. Keep reservoir topped up at all times.

Detailed bleed-nipple handling
- Slip clear tubing over nipple fully so it won’t pop off when pressurized.
- Do not open nipple more than needed. Use correct wrench size and steady force; avoid rounding.
- If nipple resists or rounds, replace nipple or use proper pliers; seized nipples should be cut out and replaced rather than hammered.

ABS and brake control module considerations
- If the vehicle has ABS, air can be trapped in ABS modulator. Pressure bleeding sometimes clears it; some ABS units require the ABS pump to cycle while bleeding (service manual or scan tool procedure).
- If ABS present and you get a soft pedal after wheel bleeding, use a scan tool that supports ABS bleed/cycle or follow Toyota service manual to actuate ABS pump while bleeding. If unsure, a professional shop with the correct scan tool is recommended.

Finish checks
1. Verify pedal feel: firm and consistent, no sinking or sponginess.
2. With engine off, hold steady pressure on pedal for 30 s — no significant sink.
3. Road test at low speed in a safe area to verify brake performance and no ABS warnings.
4. Re-torque wheel nuts to spec after test drive.
5. Dispose of used fluid properly, clean any spilled fluid, replace ripped/worn bleed caps.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Letting reservoir run dry: maintain top level — always top up with fresh fluid.
- Mixing DOT types: don’t mix DOT3/DOT5; stick to DOT3 or DOT4 per spec.
- Rounding bleed screws: use correct wrench and back-up tool; replace damaged screws.
- Not flushing enough fluid: a full system flush uses roughly 0.7–1.0 L depending on vehicle — keep extra fluid on hand.
- Ignoring ABS: failing to cycle ABS leads to trapped air and soft pedal.
- Overpressurizing reservoir: keep pressure 15–30 psi on pressure bleeder to avoid damaging seals.
- Contaminating reservoir: clean cap area and use clean funnels; discard fluid left in opened containers older than vehicle day.

Replacement parts likely required or recommended
- Fresh brake fluid (DOT3/DOT4) — 1 L.
- Bleed-screw caps (cheap, replace if missing).
- Bleed nipples (if corroded or rounded).
- Copper crush washers (for banjo bolts) if you remove brake lines/calipers.
- Flexible brake hoses if cracked or bulging — replace if age/condition demands.
- Master cylinder or reservoir replacement only if contaminated or leaking.

Quick torque/turn guidance
- Bleed screw: tighten snugly, roughly 8–12 Nm (6–9 lb·ft).
- Banjo bolt (if removed): follow OEM torque (~25–35 Nm typical); use new crush washers each side.

Final note
A proper full flush replaces all old fluid and ensures no air in the lines or ABS module. If you run into stuck nipples, ABS that won’t purge, or persistent spongy pedal after a correct procedure, have a shop with the correct Toyota service documentation and ABS bleed-capable scan tool complete the job.
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