Ordered, theory-focused procedure for suspension geometry adjustment on a Toyota Hilux (general: applies to most Hilux generations). For model‑specific bolt types or factory numbers, refer to the vehicle service manual. No fluff — theory first, then the ordered actions and how each repair fixes the fault.

Theory — what the suspension angles do and why they matter
- Toe (front and total): angle the wheels point in/out when viewed from above. Toe-in stabilizes straight-line tracking but excessive toe causes feathering/edge wear and steering instability. Toe changes are very powerful in low‑speed instability and tyre wear.
- Camber: tilt of the wheel top in/out when viewed from front. Negative camber (tops in) improves cornering grip; positive camber causes outer wear and poor turn-in. Wrong camber causes rapid inner or outer tyre wear and changes steering feel in corners.
- Caster: fore/aft tilt of the steering axis. Positive caster gives self-centering and more straight-line stability; changes camber during steering sweep (camber gain). Incorrect caster causes steering pull, poor returnability and vague feel.
- Thrust angle / rear axle alignment: the angle the rear axle points relative to vehicle centerline. If rear thrust is off, the whole car will dog-leg (steer off-center) even if front toe is correct. Thrust angle controls whether the front is aimed down the centre of the car.
- Ride height: geometry is referenced from ride height—springs sag or lifted vehicles change camber/caster/toe relationships. Always set ride height before measuring.
- Play/worn components: worn bushings, ball joints, tie rods, bent arms allow uncontrolled angle changes under load; adjusting geometry without fixing wear is temporary and will not hold.
- Adjustment coupling: adjusting one parameter often alters others (e.g., changing camber via control arm may change toe). That’s why alignment is iterative.

Common faults and how a correct adjustment repairs them
- Pull to one side: caused by unequal camber/caster, toe asymmetry, or rear thrust angle. Fix: measure which angle is off, correct caster/camber/toe and/or correct rear axle shims/track rod so thrust angle is zero. Repair restores symmetric lateral forces so car tracks straight.
- Uneven tyre wear (inner/outer feathering): toe and camber errors. Correct by setting toe to spec and camber to spec. If wear due to worn parts, replace them so new geometry will hold.
- Wandering/poor stability: excessive toe-out, low positive caster, or worn components. Setting a small toe‑in and restoring caster and replacing worn parts restores stability.
- Poor returnability: low or asymmetric caster. Increasing/setting caster makes steering self-center; correcting caster on both sides equalizes return.
- Rear axle not centered under body: bent axle, broken spring shackles, incorrect shims or loose U‑bolts. Correct by shimming/adjusting panhard/track rod or repairing bent parts.

Ordered procedure (theory + what to do, in sequence)
1) Pre-check and repair worn components (theory: geometry must be adjusted on healthy components)
- Inspect tyres (even wear?), pressures, rim runout.
- Check steering play (tie rods, rack), ball joints, control-arm bushings, strut mounts, spring condition, rear axle shackles and leaf springs.
- Replace any worn/bent components. Reason: worn parts let angles move under load; adjustments won’t hold and alignment will not solve the underlying instability.

2) Set correct ride height and static load (theory: geometry is height-dependent)
- Restore stock ride height (sags, lifted lifts change camber/caster/toe). If ride height not correct, adjust springs or use factory shims.
- Load vehicle to normal ride condition (fuel, spare) or as per factory procedure.

3) Center the steering wheel and ensure steering stops are correct (theory: steering center must be reference)
- Straighten steering wheel and count rack turns or center steering rack if required. Lock wheel using center punch marks or follow factory centering method.
- Reason: toe and toe symmetry are measured with steering centered.

4) Mount alignment measuring equipment (theory: accurate measurement is required)
- Use an alignment rack with sensors or turnplates with toe plates plus a camber gauge. On a budget, string method or digital gauges can be used but are less precise.
- Zero sensors to vehicle centerline/perimeter reference.

5) Measure and record baseline values (theory: to know what to correct and how much)
- Record toe (per wheel and total), camber (each side), caster (each side), thrust angle, and any steering axis inclination if available.
- Note any asymmetry.

6) Adjust toe (first, because it’s the easiest and most influential)
- Theory: toe affects straight-line behavior and tyre wear quickly and is easy to change via tie‑rod length.
- On Hilux: front toe is adjusted by turning the steering tie‑rod ends or rack tie‑rod adjusters. Backlash must be removed and lock nuts tightened.
- Method: adjust each tie rod to achieve specified toe (often small total toe-in). Re-centre steering if necessary.
- How this fixes faults: reducing excessive toe-in/out stops feathering/edge wear; correcting asymmetry removes steering pull.

7) Adjust camber and caster (if adjustable on that model) — iterate with toe
- Theory: camber/caster affect tyre contact in corner and steering return. Many Hilux models use fixed camber/caster; some use eccentric bolts, adjustable control arms, or strut top slots.
- If adjustable:
- Camber: adjust eccentric bolts at strut tops or lower control arm position to reach factory camber. Negative or positive camber corrected to spec reduces inner/outer wear.
- Caster: adjust via control arm position, cam bolts, or adjustable bushes. Match both sides and ensure caster difference within spec. Caster adjustment will change toe slightly — recheck toe after.
- If non-adjustable: correct by replacing bent control arms, shims or using adjustable aftermarket arms.

8) Set thrust angle / rear axle alignment
- Theory: rear axle must point down the vehicle centreline; otherwise the front wheels must be steered off-center to compensate.
- On Hilux live-axle rear: align axle using shims at the forward spring eyes or by adjusting a track/panhard rod or adjustable rear track bar (depending on model). Replace or re-shim springs if required.
- Goal: thrust angle = 0° relative to vehicle centerline; rear axle centerline aligned with chassis centerline.
- How this fixes faults: removes dog-leg effect where vehicle tracks off-center; eliminates compensation steering and uneven front tyre wear.

9) Recheck all angles and iterative fine-tuning
- Theory: adjustments interact. After camber/caster or rear changes, recheck toe and thrust.
- Re-tighten all locking nuts to correct torque (torqueing can shift camber/toe slightly — final check after torquing).
- Ensure steering wheel centered; if final toe set causes steering wheel off-center, correct by small tie‑rod adjustments (not by changing toe on both wheels together).

10) Road test and final verification
- Theory: real-world load and dynamic forces can reveal residual issues.
- Perform a test drive with typical speeds and straight-line and turning maneuvers. Check steering return, pulling, vibration.
- Re-measure on lift and correct any remaining deviations.

Practical notes specific to Toyota Hilux
- Front: most Hilux variants use rack-and-pinion with double wishbone or strut front. Toe is almost always adjustable via tie rods. Camber/caster may be adjustable via eccentric bolts on control arm or strut top on some years; on other years you must change arm/shims to correct camber/caster.
- Rear live axle: alignment typically set by spring perch shims, adjustable track/panhard bar or adjustable rear track rod. Leaf-spring packs compressing or misplaced spring plates cause thrust error — remedy with correct shimming or spring replacement.
- If you find bent components (control arm, axle housing) replace — alignment cannot correct bends.
- Always use new locking hardware or new split pins and torque to Toyota specs.

Typical fault-to-fix examples (concise)
- Symptom: car pulls left; tyre wear on right outer.
- Likely: front toe or camber asymmetry, or rear thrust angle off to the right.
- Fix: inspect/replace worn parts, center steering, measure/correct camber/caster, set rear thrust = 0°, adjust toe to spec.
- Symptom: rapid feathering across middle of tread.
- Likely: excessive toe.
- Fix: set toe to spec (adjust tie rods), verify wheel bearings and hub runout.
- Symptom: steering doesn’t return after turns/feels heavy.
- Likely: low or unequal caster.
- Fix: adjust caster where possible (control arm ecentric/shims), ensure strut mounts and bushings healthy.

Tools and tolerances
- Use an alignment rack with computerized head units whenever possible for speed and accuracy.
- If using manual methods, use toe plates/string, precision camber gauge, and a good torque wrench.
- Always follow factory torque specs and alignment specs for the exact Hilux model. Typical principle: very small toe values (close to zero or slight toe-in), camber near zero ± small degrees, caster positive and matched L/R. Exact numbers vary by year/trim.

Final reminder (brief): Replace worn parts first, set ride height, center steering, measure, correct toe, then camber/caster, set rear thrust, iterate, torque and road test. That sequence fixes the physical causes and restores correct geometry so handling and tyre wear return to normal.
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Toyota Hilux street 0-200km/h 10 sec done Tune by Andrew Auyong.

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