Tools & consumables
- Floor jack + 4 jack stands or drive-on ramps, wheel chocks
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty trolley jack with adapter and straps
- Engine support bar or hoist (to support engine when transmission removed)
- Full metric socket/ratchet set (8–24 mm), deep sockets, extensions
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm)
- Breaker bar
- Screwdrivers, pick set, pliers, snap-ring pliers
- Pry bars (plastic/wood blocks to protect housings)
- Line wrenches for cooler lines, hose clamp pliers
- Drain pan, fluid transfer pump
- Shop rags, solvent, disposable gloves, eye protection
- Clean work tray / magnetic tray for fasteners
- Gasket scraper, brake cleaner
- Valve-body service kit (if replacing solenoids) and torque converter seal installer (or small seal driver)
- Flywheel/torque converter holding tool (recommended)
- Replacement parts: torque converter (or rebuilt core), torque converter-to-transmission bolts (if recommended), transmission input seal (pump seal), torque converter seal (on crank), ATF filter and pan gasket, transmission fluid (Toyota ATF type for your Hilux: T-IV or WS — check year/model), cooler line O-rings, valve body solenoids (if diagnosing solenoid/TCC issues)
- Service manual or factory torque specs for your Hilux model

Safety precautions (non-negotiable)
- Work on a level surface, engine cold. Chock wheels and disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Use rated jack stands under manufacturer lift points; never rely on a jack alone.
- Support engine with an engine support bar or hoist before removing transmission crossmember/bolts.
- Use transmission jack + safety straps. Transmission is heavy and awkward — get an assistant.
- Keep transmission fluid away from hot surfaces and open flames. Dispose fluid per local regs.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering the transmission.

High-level overview
Two common repairs when the torque-converter clutch (TCC/lock-up) is faulty:
1) Electronic/valve body level — replace TCC solenoid(s) and valve-body service (cheaper).
2) Mechanical — replace torque converter (rebuild or new) and input seals (more labor, requires transmission removal).

Step-by-step: diagnosing then repair (solenoid first, torque converter replacement second)

A. Quick diagnosis (before major teardown)
1. Scan for transmission codes (OBD-II). Codes P0740/P0741/P2757 etc. → TCC circuit/solenoid or converter slip.
2. Check ATF level, color and smell. Burnt fluid/metal = likely mechanical damage.
3. Inspect wiring to transmission and solenoid connectors for corrosion/damage.
4. If codes point to solenoid and fluid OK, plan valve-body/solenoid service. If fluid burnt/metal particles or mechanical symptoms (no lock-up, heavy slip, vibration), prepare for torque converter removal.

B. Solenoid / valve-body TCC repair (less invasive)
1. Disconnect battery. Lift vehicle, support on stands, remove skid plates as needed.
2. Drain transmission fluid into pan (remove pan bolts slowly; keep pan level). Save fluid for inspection (metal filings).
3. Remove pan and filter. Inspect magnet for metal; heavy metal -> converter replacement recommended.
4. Remove valve body per service manual: label bolt locations and small parts. Unplug solenoids and remove the TCC solenoid(s).
- Tool use: torque wrench for re-assembly, pick tools to remove electrical connectors, and organizer tray to keep parts in order. Work on a clean bench.
5. Install new solenoid(s) and replace filter and pan gasket. Clean mating surfaces.
6. Refit pan with proper torque sequence and torque values (factory spec).
7. Refill with correct ATF to the specified level. Reconnect battery.
8. Clear codes and road test. Verify lock-up engagement and absence of codes.

Common pitfalls (solenoid route)
- Contaminating valve body with dirt — work in a clean environment.
- Mixing up bolt lengths/locations — label them.
- Reinstalling pan without new gasket or tightened torque causing leaks.
- Using wrong ATF type.

C. Full torque-converter removal & replacement (mechanical)
1. Prepare: disconnect battery, ensure transmission cool. Raise vehicle and support on stands. Remove any underbody shields.
2. Support engine: install engine support or hoist so engine can’t tilt when crossmember removed.
3. Remove drive shafts/propshaft (mark orientation for reassembly). For 4x4, remove transfer case or unbolt it from transmission depending on model — on some Hiluxes you separate transfer case and leave it mounted to engine; on others you remove transfer case with transmission.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors to transmission, shift linkage, speed sensors, reverse light switch.
5. Disconnect transmission cooler lines (catch fluid; replace O-rings on reassembly).
6. Remove starter motor and any exhaust or crossmembers obstructing transmission removal.
7. Support transmission with transmission jack, strap securely.
8. Remove bellhousing bolts in a criss-cross pattern; leave two top bolts part-way until converter bolts can be accessed (or remove all if you can hold converter).
9. Rotate engine (by using breaker bar on crank or turning wheels in gear with parking brake off) so you can access torque converter-to-flexplate bolts via starter hole or access covers. Use flywheel holding tool if available.
10. Remove torque converter bolts (usually 3 bolts). Keep bolts and washers in order.
- Tool use: short socket on ratchet or impact (careful), some bolts are tight — use breaker bar with holding tool to prevent engine rotation. Do not pry on bolts.
11. Carefully separate transmission from engine. Slide transmission back a few inches until torque converter disengages from pilot/engine. The torque converter will stay in engine; tilt and support transmission on jack and lower enough to clear.
12. Pull torque converter off crank snout. Inspect inside for clutch fragments, metal. If clutch surfaces are damaged or metal present, replace torque converter.
13. Replace input pump seal(s) on transmission and crank seal(s) if accessible/recommended. Install new torque converter seal on crank with appropriate driver; light coat of ATF on seal lip.
14. Fit new or rebuilt torque converter: fill with some ATF (per manual, some models require filling and spinning to ensure fluid fills clutch circuit). Carefully engage torque converter onto transmission input shaft and pump — you must feel and hear three distinct engagements as converter seats fully into pump and input splines. Ensure converter sits flush and you can reach all torque converter bolts through access holes.
- Tool use: torque converter installer tool prevents seal damage; hand-rotate to align bolt holes.
15. Mate transmission to engine: carefully slide transmission forward until bellhousing contacts engine; ensure converter engages fully with pilot and input shaft — do not force. When flush, install top bellhousing bolts hand-tight.
16. Install torque converter bolts and torque to spec (check manual; typical range 35–50 Nm — use factory spec). Tighten in a star pattern.
17. Torque bellhousing bolts to factory spec. Reinstall starter, crossmembers, transfer case/propshaft, cooler lines (new O-rings), electrical connectors, linkage.
18. Refill ATF to proper level and type. Do a fluid pump/burp procedure if required: cycle selector through gears with engine running and check level at operating temp.
19. Road test, scan for codes, verify lock-up operation.

Common pitfalls (converter route)
- Not supporting engine — leading to misalignment/damage.
- Not seating torque converter fully before bolting — causes seal damage and pump wear.
- Cross-threading torque converter bolts — start by hand and ensure alignment.
- Reusing contaminated fluid/filter when torque converter shows metal — causes immediate failure.
- Using incorrect ATF — affects clutch friction and lock-up.
- Forgetting to replace cooler line O-rings — causes leaks.
- Not tightening bolts to proper torque or incorrect sequence — leads to leaks or bolt failure.

Final checks after repair
- No leaks on cooler lines, pan gasket, seals.
- ATF level correct at operating temperature per procedure.
- No transmission/trouble codes; TCC engages under load (confirm with scanner if needed).
- Test drive graded: take it easy for first 100 km to allow new seals/clutch to bed in.

Parts typically required
- Torque converter (or rebuild kit)
- Input/pump seal(s) and converter-to-crank seal(s)
- ATF filter and pan gasket
- Correct grade ATF (Toyota spec)
- Torque converter-to-flexplate bolts (if damaged or per manual)
- Cooler line O-rings
- Valve-body solenoids (if doing solenoid repair)
- Any damaged wiring/connector parts

Final notes / pitfalls summary (be strict)
- Always follow the factory service manual for your exact Hilux model and year — torque specs and procedural details vary.
- Do not reuse contaminated fluid or filter if mechanical damage suspected.
- Do not rush removal/reinstallation — misalignment and incomplete seating are the most common causes of immediate failure.
- If you lack a transmission jack, engine support bar, or flywheel holding tool — do not attempt this alone. Get proper tools or professional help.

Done.
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Rebuilding Toyota Hilux 2nd Engine- Toyota Hilux Engine Restoration | Rebuilding Toyota Hilux 2nd Engine- Toyota Hilux Engine Restoration |

Toyota Hilux load bin damage before PDR repairs Accidental damage to the load bin of the vehicle before PDR repairs commence.

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Below are clear, step‑by‑step procedures for servicing the differential(s) on a Toyota Hilux. I cover two common service levels: 1) routine differential gear oil change/drain & refill, and 2) replacing the pinion seal and doing basic cover‑off inspection (magnet, bearings, carrier). I also list tools, safety precautions, how each tool is used, parts commonly replaced, and common pitfalls. Always check the exact year/model/service manual for capacities and torque specs — those vary by year and differential type.

SUMMARY PARTS / FLUID (typical)
- Correct gear oil (check manual): commonly GL‑5 75W‑90 or 80W‑90 hypoid gear oil. If LSD, use LSD‑approved oil or add friction modifier as specified.
- Crush washer/petrol washer for differential drain/fill or pinion nut (if applicable) — some models use a reusable washer, some single‑use.
- Differential cover gasket or RTV/RTV‑specified gasket.
- Pinion seal (if replacing).
- Differential cover bolts (replace if damaged) and ring & pinion bolts (replace if removed; torqued to spec).
- New axle seals or bearings only if worn.
- Thread locker (blue medium strength) if specified.
- Solvent, rags, gasket scraper.
- Optional: new carrier bearings, shims (if major rebuild).

TOOLS
- Safety: hydraulic floor jack, two pairs quality jack stands, wheel chocks, gloves, eye protection.
- Socket set and wrenches (metric).
- Breaker bar and 1/2" drive impact or torque wrench (0–200 ft‑lb).
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft‑lb range).
- Catch pan for oil.
- Fluid transfer pump/syringe or gear oil pump for refilling.
- Clean rags, gasket scraper, wire brush.
- Seal puller / screwdriver for pinion seal removal.
- Soft mallet.
- Pry bar (to remove cover).
- Dial indicator with magnetic base (for ring & pinion backlash check) — only needed for ring & pinion set service/installation.
- Micrometer or caliper (for shim measurements) — for advanced work.
- Bearing puller and hydraulic press (for bearing replacement / ring & pinion removal) — advanced.
- RTV silicone if using no‑gasket cover.
- Torque angle gauge (if applicable to pinion nut/certain bolts).
- Magnet (to check metal shavings).

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
- Park on a level surface; engage parking brake; chock front wheels if working on rear diff (and vice versa).
- Use rated jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear gloves and eye protection when draining hot oil.
- Allow vehicle to cool if recently driven; differential oil gets hot.
- Dispose of used oil per local regs.
- When loosening/installing large nuts (pinion nut, axle nuts), be aware of stored preload forces — use proper tools and techniques.

PART A — ROUTINE DIFFERENTIAL OIL CHANGE (Rear solid axle typical)
1. Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock front wheels.
- Loosen wheel lug nuts if needed to remove wheels for access.
- Raise vehicle with floor jack and secure on jack stands under axle housing and subframe points. Confirm stability.

2. Locate drain & fill plugs
- Rear diff cover usually has a fill plug (higher) and drain plug (lower). Remove fill plug first to ensure you can refill. On some Hilux models the cover is sealed and there are no plugs — remove cover instead.

3. Drain oil
- Place catch pan under drain plug or remove cover to drain.
- Remove fill plug first (prevents vacuum), then remove drain plug. If no drain plug, loosen differential cover bolts and pry cover gently at the bottom to allow drain into pan.
- Allow oil to drain completely. Note any heavy metal particles on magnet or in oil.

4. Inspect
- With cover off (if you removed it), clean cover, inspect magnets for metal debris (a few small particles OK; heavy chunks indicate wear/failure).
- Inspect ring gear, bearings, teeth pitting/scoring, and carrier movement. Check axle seals for leakage.
- Clean gasket surfaces with scraper. Remove old gasket or RTV.

5. Reinstall drain plug / cover
- Replace crush washer on drain/pinion if required.
- If using cover gasket, install new gasket. If RTV, apply evenly and let sit per RTV cure times if full cure is required (some allow safe drive at hour spec).
- Tighten cover bolts in crisscross pattern to manufacturer's torque or snug if using RTV; then torque to spec.

6. Refill
- Refill differential through fill hole until oil level reaches bottom edge of fill hole.
- Use fluid transfer pump to pump correct amount. Typical fill until it begins to weep out of the fill hole.
- Reinstall and torque fill plug (use new crush washer if specified).

7. Final
- Clean spilled oil, lower vehicle, test drive short distance, recheck for leaks and oil level after warmup.

How the specific tools are used:
- Fluid transfer pump: inserts into fill hole; pump gear oil until it begins to exit at fill hole level.
- Torque wrench: used to accurately torque cover bolts and fill/drain plugs to spec (prevents stripping or leaks).
- Catch pan: collects used gear oil.

Common pitfalls (routine)
- Not removing fill plug before drain — will prevent refilling.
- Overfilling or underfilling — causes foaming or poor lubrication.
- Reusing a damaged gasket or not cleaning mating surfaces — causes leaks.
- Using wrong fluid (LSD vs non‑LSD) — can damage clutch packs.
- Not inspecting magnet/metal — misses early failure signs.

PART B — FRONT DIFFERENTIAL (4WD / hub notes)
- If manual hubs: lock hubs before driving and unlock before service if required.
- Procedures mirror rear: locate drain/fill plugs or remove differential cover.
- On transfer case/front differential combos, capacities and plug locations differ — confirm manual.

Extra for locking hubs or free‑wheel hubs:
- If Hilux has manual free‑wheel hubs, remove wheels and hubs to access wheel bearings/seals if servicing those.
- Automatic locking hubs may require special reassembly and torque.

PART C — PINION SEAL REPLACEMENT & BASIC COVER‑OFF INSPECTION (intermediate)
1. Preparation & safety (jack stands, chock).
2. Remove driveshaft from pinion flange
- Mark flanges for reassembly orientation.
- Remove U‑bolt or flange bolts. Secure driveshaft out of the way.

3. Remove pinion nut and flange
- Use impact or large breaker bar; hold flange with pry bar or yoke holder.
- Remove flange and slide out oil seal (pinion seal) typically located behind flange.

4. Remove old seal
- Use seal puller or screwdriver carefully to pry old seal out. Avoid scoring housing.
- Clean bore and inspect for groove/wear.

5. Install new seal
- Coat seal lip with oil; use appropriate seal driver or deep socket to press new seal flush. Tap evenly; do not tilt.
- Reinstall flange. If pinion nut adjusts bearing preload, use torque wrench / specified method to set preload and backlash — refer service manual.

6. Reinstall driveshaft, torque bolts to spec.

How tools are used:
- Seal puller / screwdriver: used to pry seal without damaging housing — use judicious pry points.
- Seal driver or socket: presses new seal squarely into bore; tap with mallet until flush.
- Torque wrench: critical to correctly torque pinion nut, flange bolts, and driveshaft bolts.

Common pitfalls (seal replacement)
- Damaging seal bore when removing old seal.
- Installing seal cocked — causes leak.
- Reusing copper/crush washer on pinion nut when new required.
- Incorrect pinion preload/backlash — causes noise and premature wear (if you disturb bearings or shims, measure and set properly, or have a shop do it).

PART D — RING & PINION / BEARING WORK (advanced — consider a shop)
- Replacing bearings, ring & pinion or setting backlash/preload requires:
- Press, bearing race installer, dial indicator, micrometer, shim kit, torque specs.
- Procedure: remove carrier, remove bearings, press bearing off pinion, install new bearings, set pinion preload with torque on pinion nut and measure rotational torque, install carrier shims to set backlash and tooth contact pattern, verify pattern with gear marking compound, torque ring gear bolts to spec.
- This is precision work. If you are not experienced or lack special tools, have a professional do it.

COMMON PITFALLS (general)
- Using wrong gear oil type (LSD vs non‑LSD).
- Not replacing crush washers when required.
- Using impact gun for final torque instead of torque wrench.
- Overlooked magnet cleaning or ignoring metal debris.
- Not checking for gear whine after service — test drive and recheck.
- Reusing damaged bolts or failing to use thread locker where needed.
- Disturbing ring/pinion without measuring backlash/preload — leads to catastrophic failure.

DISPOSAL / CLEANUP
- Collect used oil and dispose at recycling center.
- Clean all mating surfaces and apply fresh gasket/RTV as specified.

QUICK CHECKLIST (routine oil change)
- Safety: chock/wheels/jack stands.
- Tools: sockets, torque wrench, fluid pump, pan, rags.
- Steps: remove fill plug → remove drain plug / remove cover → drain → inspect magnet/gears → clean surfaces → install new gasket/RTV → torque cover → refill via fill hole until level → torque fill plug → lower & inspect.

If you need factory torque values, fluid capacities, and exact part numbers (gasket/pinion seal/crush washer) for your specific Hilux year/model/axle code, consult the Toyota service manual or provide the model year and diff ID — but since you asked no questions, verify those specs before final reassembly.
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