Tools & PPE (minimum)
- Basic hand tools: 10–24 mm wrenches/sockets, extensions, ratchet, breaker bar.
- Torque wrench (0–200 Nm) — for critical fasteners.
- Jack and heavy-duty jack stands (rated for vehicle).
- Wheel chocks.
- Air line release/removal tool (quick-disconnect tool) for OEM plastic/nylon fittings.
- Tire iron.
- Spray bottle with soapy water (leak test).
- Digital multimeter (DC volts, continuity).
- OBD-II / aftermarket scanner with manufacturer-specific air suspension commands (or Techstream for Toyota).
- Portable vacuum/pressure pump or gauge set (0–200 psi) or hand pump.
- Smoke leak detector or aerosol leak detector.
- Tubing pliers / hose clamp pliers.
- Small picks and flat screwdrivers (for clamps, retainers).
- Needle-nose pliers.
- Impact gun (optional) — speeds work but don’t over-torque.
- Wire brush, penetrating oil, anti-seize.
- Replacement parts as required (air spring/strut, compressor assembly, dryer/receiver, valve block/solenoids, level sensor, O-rings, air line segments, clamps).
- Safety glasses, gloves.

Safety precautions
- Work on flat level ground, chock wheels, use rated jack stands; never support just by a jack.
- Disable system and remove key. Disconnect negative battery terminal when working on electrical components.
- Depressurize air system before disconnecting lines or removing air struts. If unsure how, use scanner to place system in service/maintenance mode or follow factory depressurization procedure.
- Support the axle/body with jack stands before removing air spring — vehicle will drop when air removed.
- Beware of stored energy in compressor/accumulator. Vent slowly and keep clear of moving parts.
- Avoid catching fingers between sagging suspension components.
- Use correct replacement parts. Cheap / wrong-size bags or fittings = failure.

Common replacement parts likely required
- Air spring / air strut (usually replace as a pair front or rear).
- Compressor (if noisy, overheats, or won’t build pressure).
- Dryer / desiccant cartridge (if moisture found).
- Valve block / solenoid pack.
- Height/level sensors and linkage.
- Air lines, O-rings and quick-disconnect fittings.
- Mounting bolts/nuts if corroded.

Diagnostic steps (fast, systematic)
1. Visual & audible check: With ignition on, listen for compressor running constantly, check for signs of airbag damage, cracked lines, popped fittings. Spray soapy water over lines, fittings, and bag to find bubbles while compressor runs (or while applying pressure).
2. Read codes: Connect a scan tool and read air suspension codes. Note sensor values, compressor status, and whether system reports leaks.
3. System pressure & operation: Using scanner, command compressor on. Use a pressure gauge on service port (if available) or observe compressor run time. Compressor runs briefly to maintain pressure; long runs indicate leak.
4. Leak isolation: With compressor off, spray suspect joints with soapy water. Use smoke tester for hidden leaks (wheel wells, behind bumper).
5. Electrical check: Check fuse(s) and relay for compressor. With scanner commanding compressor, verify 12V at compressor connector. Use multimeter to check continuity to ground.
6. Height sensor check: Manually move suspension and watch sensor values on scanner. Replace if out of spec.

Step-by-step repair: Replace a leaking air spring (typical)
1. Preparation
- Chock wheels, lift vehicle with jack at proper jacking point, support on stands. Remove wheel for access.
- Disconnect negative battery.
- Put air suspension system into Service Mode with scanner if available (prevents compressor from firing and levels from adjusting). If no scanner, block compressor fuse/relay and depressurize.
2. Depressurize system
- Locate service port or schrader on suspension system and vent slowly. If not present, open valve block drain or follow manual. Ensure no pressure (compressor off, engine off).
3. Support axle/body
- Place jack under axle or control arm and support the weight to prevent sudden drop when air spring removed.
4. Remove air spring
- Disconnect air line from top fitting using quick-disconnect tool. Expect a little residual air — stand clear.
- Remove lower mount bolt(s) or clips securing bag to axle/spring perch.
- Unbolt top mount(s) (retain fasteners if reusing—replace if corroded).
- Extract old air spring/strut. Inspect mounting surfaces, clean, remove rust/debris. Replace any damaged brackets.
5. Install new air spring
- Compare new part to old; transfer any brackets or isolators if required.
- Lightly lubricate O-rings with clean silicone grease or manufacturer-specified lube (don’t use petroleum).
- Attach air line to new bag until it clicks; pull gently to confirm secure.
- Fit top mount and torque bolts to factory spec (consult manual). Lower mount: align and fasten per spec.
- Hand-tighten first, then torque with torque wrench.
6. Re-pressurize & check
- Remove axle support jack slowly until suspension takes load.
- Reconnect battery, restore any removed fuses/relays, exit Service Mode.
- Use scanner to raise system or allow automatic fill; listen for leaks and check bag inflation.
- Spray soapy water on fittings and bag to check for bubbles.
7. Test drive & recalibrate
- Cycle vehicle through raises/lowers using scanner. Drive short distance to check normal behavior. Re-check for leaks and proper ride height left/right.

Step-by-step repair: Replace compressor
1. Diagnosis: Confirm compressor doesn’t run when commanded, or runs constantly and fails to build pressure. Check voltage at compressor connector when commanded; if 12V present and motor doesn’t run, compressor is bad.
2. Preparation: Lift vehicle sufficiently for compressor access (usually under body near wheelwell). Disconnect battery.
3. Remove compressor
- Depressurize system.
- Unplug electrical connector and remove mount bolts. Some compressors have intake/dryer and line fittings; remove and catch any trapped moisture into a rag—avoid contamination.
- Remove compressor/dryer assembly.
4. Install new compressor
- Fit new compressor with new O-rings/seals if applicable. Replace associated dryer/desiccant; manufacturer recommends replacing dryer with compressor.
- Tighten bolts/line fittings to spec; torque appropriately.
- Reconnect electrical connector.
5. Refill & test
- Reconnect battery, command compressor, verify it pumps and builds pressure to specified level without overheating or excessive current draw.
- Leak check with soapy water and smoke tester.

Step-by-step repair: Valve block / solenoid replacement
1. Diagnose by code or confirmed leaks at valve block (solenoids failing to hold pressure to corners).
2. Depressurize system.
3. Remove electrical connector(s), label lines if needed, and remove mounting bolts.
4. Replace valve block assembly; install new O-rings on every disconnect.
5. Re-pressurize and command each corner via scanner, verify correct operation, check for leaks.

Electrical & calibration notes
- Use scanner to command inflate/deflate each corner and to view height sensor voltages/values. After replacement, clear codes and perform any required height learning or calibration procedure in the service manual.
- If compressor runs but trips thermal cutoff, allow to cool, check dryer for moisture, and test compressor current draw (compare to spec). Excessive current indicates internal wear or binding.
- Some Toyota systems require the ignition to be on or engine running to perform certain functions. Follow scanner prompts.

How to use key tools (practical use)
- Quick-disconnect tool: Insert into collar around airline fitting; push tool in while pulling the tubing out. To install, push tubing fully until it clicks; tug to confirm locked.
- Digital multimeter: Set to DC volts. Backprobe the compressor connector with ground clip on chassis ground; command compressor on, you should see ~12V. Use continuity mode to check ground path.
- Soapy water: Spray liberally on fittings and bag while compressor runs; bubbles = leak. Mark and repair.
- Smoke tester: Connect to low-pressure side or service port; introduce smoke; watch for smoke escaping to pinpoint hidden leaks.
- Torque wrench: Use correct torque spec, tighten smoothly in stages to prevent sealing failures or warped parts.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Not depressurizing: Can cause sudden drop of suspension and injury. Always depressurize and support axle.
- Reusing old O-rings or using petroleum grease: Causes leaks and premature failure. Replace O-rings and use recommended silicone grease.
- Not replacing dryer with compressor: Moisture will enter system and cause new compressor failure. Replace dryer when compressor is replaced.
- Over-tightening plastic fittings or using wrong fittings: Breaks fittings; install new fittings and hand-start threads first.
- Ignoring electrical checks: Replacing mechanical parts without checking fuses/relays wastes parts. Test power and grounds first.
- Skipping calibration: System will not behave correctly if height sensors are out of alignment or the ECU needs learning. Use a scanner.
- Working under unsupported vehicle: Never rely solely on hydraulic jack.

Final checklist before reassembly
- All fittings hand-tight/torque to spec, O-rings in place.
- No leaks (soap/smoke test).
- Compressor current draw normal, builds pressure to spec.
- Height sensors read and calibrate within manufacturer limits.
- Clear all codes, perform relearns, test drive to ensure system holds pressure and vehicle returns to proper ride height.
- Replace wheels, torqued to spec.

Reference
- Always cross-check exact procedures and torque specifications with the Toyota factory service manual for your specific model/year. Follow OEM replacement part numbers for air springs and compressor/dryer.

End.
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