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Jeep Automatic Transmission 42RLE gearbox repair manual download

Tools & supplies
- Full metric socket/ratchet set, extensions, swivel
- Torque wrench (0–150 ft·lb)
- Transmission jack (or heavy floor jack + block) and engine support
- Jack stands, wheel chocks, ramps
- Drain pan, fluid pump/siphon
- Line wrenches for cooler lines
- Screwdrivers, pry bars, rubber mallet
- Snap‑ring pliers (internal & external)
- Seal puller / small pry tool
- Bearing puller / slide hammer (if bearings removed)
- Hydraulic press or clutch spring compressor (for clutch plates/pistons)
- Punches, drift pins, pliers
- Clean rags, solvent, gasket scraper
- New filter, pan gasket, transmission fluid (factory spec ATF+4)
- Replacement pressure plate (correct 42RLE internal plate) and associated friction steels, snap rings, seals, O‑rings, thrust washers (kit recommended)
- Thread locker (blue), anti‑seize
- Service manual for 42RLE (specs & diagrams)

Safety precautions
- Work on a level surface. Chock wheels. Use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Support engine/transmission properly; transmission is heavy and can fall. Use a transmission jack.
- Wear safety glasses, gloves. Avoid skin contact with ATF.
- Dispose of fluid properly.

Overview / warning
The 42RLE is an automatic — “pressure plate” refers to an internal clutch pressure plate within the clutch pack assemblies. Access requires removing the transmission from the vehicle and partial disassembly of the transmission to the clutch pack level. Replace all wear items (frictions, steels, snap rings, seals) when servicing; do not reuse brittle plates or seals.

Step‑by‑step (concise)
1) Preparation
- Park, chock wheels, lift vehicle and support on stands. Disconnect battery.
- Remove air cleaner intake if it interferes for access.

2) Drain fluid & remove external connections
- Place drain pan under transmission pan. Remove pan bolts and drain fluid (or loosen cooler lines and drain). Remove pan, save bolts.
- Remove transmission electrical connectors, speedometer cable/sensor, detent/shift linkage, cooler lines (catch fluid), and ground straps.
- Mark and remove driveshaft at rear flange (or front depending on vehicle; mark orientation).

3) Remove torque converter / flexplate access
- Rotate engine to access torque converter bolts from flywheel/flexplate.
- Support transmission with trans jack under torque converter housing and remove transmission mount/crossmember.
- Remove bellhousing bolts (engine to trans) evenly. Carefully slide transmission rearward slightly to access torque converter bolts at flexplate. Remove torque converter bolts (retain bolts and mark positions).
- Carefully slide transmission back and lower slightly (do not use torque converter to hold transmission) and pull transmission rearward until torque converter disengages from front pump. Tip: rotate torque converter while lowering to clear pump lip — don’t pry on front pump.

How the tool is used: transmission jack supports the heavy weight; use the jack to control alignment and lowering. A torque wrench will be used later to correctly tighten bellhousing and torque converter bolts to spec.

4) Remove torque converter and input assembly access
- With trans lowered, unbolt torque converter from flexplate and remove torque converter from transmission (it slides off the stub shaft). Inspect torque converter for damage; replace if contaminated or damaged.
- Remove front pump/snout if required (follow manual). Remove seals/O‑rings at input.

5) Disassemble transmission to clutch pack
- Remove valve body & internal components as needed to access clutch packs (this varies by tear‑down level). Remove snap rings and retaining plates that hold clutch drum/planetary assemblies.
- Use snap‑ring pliers to remove internal snap rings. Remove clutch pack (springs, friction and steel plates) and slide out the pressure plate (this is the part being replaced).
- Use press or clutch spring compressor to remove compression springs/pistons if needed. Keep orientation/stack order of plates and steels; lay parts out in order.

How the tool is used: snap ring pliers remove/install retaining rings; press compresses springs to remove pistons and plates safely; a drift/punch helps remove tight drums.

6) Replace pressure plate & wear items
- Inspect and replace: pressure plate, friction discs, steel plates, piston, seals, O‑rings, thrust washers, and any worn bearings or snap rings. Replace all paper/gasket filters and pan gasket.
- Clean all parts in solvent, blow dry, and inspect bore/land surfaces for scoring. Light hone or replace as required.
- Install new seals with appropriate seal driver; lubricate with ATF.

7) Reassemble clutch pack
- Reassemble clutch pack in exact correct order and orientation. Compress springs/pistons using the press or clutch tool, install new snap ring(s) to retain plate. Ensure snap rings fully seat.
- Rotate assembly to verify free movement and no binding.

Common pitfalls: incorrect plate/stud orientation, reusing worn snap rings, not fully seating snap ring, mixing up friction/steel plates, forgetting a thrust washer, incorrect piston seal installation (leads to leaks or slip).

8) Reinstall valve body & transmission
- Reinstall valve body, pan, filter, torque converter (partially installed onto input shaft until you can bolt to flexplate after mating), and any removed sensors. Torque all bolts per service manual.
- Lift transmission into position with trans jack, align input shaft to engine pilot. Slide transmission forward fully to engage dowel pins and torque converter hub into flexplate. Fasten bellhousing bolts finger tight initially.

9) Torque converter and bellhousing bolt procedure
- With transmission pushed forward fully, rotate engine slowly to align torque converter bolt holes with flexplate bolts. Install torque converter bolts with blue Loctite if recommended; torque to factory spec (see manual).
- Tighten bellhousing bolts to spec with torque wrench in sequence.
- Reinstall mount/crossmember, driveshaft, cooler lines, linkage, electrical connectors.

Note: I did not supply exact torque numbers; confirm with 42RLE factory service manual before final torquing.

10) Refill, test & break‑in
- Fill with correct ATF (factory spec—Chrysler ATF+4 for most 42RLE). Start engine and run through gears, check for leaks. With vehicle still supported, run through shift pattern to cycle fluid.
- Road test and perform adaptive relearn if needed. Re‑check fluid level warm per procedure.

Common pitfalls & fixes
- Not supporting engine/trans properly: transmission can drop — fatal hazard.
- Pulling transmission without removing torque converter bolts: damages pump input and converter.
- Reusing worn friction steels or snap rings: causes immediate slipping or failure.
- Incorrect snap ring seating: clutch pack can come apart in service.
- Damaging front pump seal when sliding transmission back in: ensure torque converter hub engages and lube seals.
- Using wrong ATF: will cause shift problems and clutch wear.
- Not replacing filter/pan gasket: contaminant left in pan recirculates.
- Over‑ or under‑torquing bolts: causes leaks, warped flexplate, or stripped threads.

Replacement parts recommended
- Pressure plate (specific 42RLE internal part)
- Full clutch pack kit (friction discs, steel plates)
- Snap rings, springs, pistons if worn
- Front pump seal, input shaft seal, torque converter seal/O‑rings
- Transmission filter and pan gasket
- ATF (factory recommended quantity)
- Torque converter bolts if damaged

Final notes
- Follow the 42RLE factory service manual for exact removal order, internal diagrams, and torque specifications. Internal transmission assembly order and torque values are critical.
- If you’re not fully confident with internal transmission assembly and snap‑ring work, consider a professional shop or a rebuild kit with instructions.

No extraneous commentary — follow the above and the factory manual exactly.
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