Tools & supplies
- Metric socket set (8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15 mm commonly)
- 3/8" ratchet + extensions, universal joint
- Torque wrench (0–100 ft·lb)
- Flat & Phillips screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers
- Fuel pressure relief tool or fuel rail Schrader adapter (if rail has Schrader)
- Fuel line disconnect tool (if equipped)
- Drain pan, funnel, rags
- Coolant catch/antifreeze
- Gasket scraper (plastic or brass), soft wire brush
- Shop vacuum / compressed air (to keep ports clean)
- RTV (only if specified by gasket manufacturer / service manual)
- Replacement intake manifold gasket set (vehicle specific)
- Throttle body gasket (replace if warped)
- Injector O‑rings (recommended if old/hardened)
- Small hose clamps or vacuum caps (to plug hoses)
- Replacement bolts if any are damaged; anti-seize (light) or thread conditioner as specified
- Safety gear: safety glasses, nitrile gloves, jack stands (if vehicle raised)

Safety precautions
- Work on a cool engine. Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Relieve fuel system pressure before opening fuel rail (use Schrader valve or remove fuel pump fuse and crank).
- Drain coolant to below the manifold level if manifold contains coolant passages.
- Use jack stands if vehicle is raised. Never rely on a jack alone.
- Keep dirt out of intake ports — cover with clean rags or caps once manifold removed.
- Dispose of coolant/fuel properly.

Parts typically required
- Intake manifold gasket set (head-to-manifold gaskets)
- Throttle body gasket (recommended)
- Injector O‑rings (recommended)
- Small coolant hose(s) and clamps if brittle
- Possibly manifold bolts if corroded or stretched (check before reuse)
- Optional: intake manifold rebuild/clean kit if manifold is corroded

Step-by-step procedure (Jeep TJ 4.0L / general TJ intake gasket replacement)
1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, set parking brake. Let engine cool.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Relieve fuel pressure: locate fuel rail Schrader valve and depress to relieve pressure into shop rag OR remove fuel pump relay/fuse and crank engine until it stalls. Have rag and eye protection.

2) Drain coolant
- Place drain pan under radiator. Drain coolant to below intake manifold level (bottom half of rad drain or drain to where coolant ports on manifold are dry). Cap or plug hoses to minimize spillage.

3) Remove intake accessories
- Remove air intake assembly, airbox, MAF (if equipped), and intake snorkel.
- Disconnect throttle cable linkage (or throttle position mount) and cruise control linkage if present.
- Remove throttle body (unbolt, unplug sensors). Label electrical connectors and hoses as you go.
- Remove PCV hose(s), vacuum lines, EGR tube (if applicable), MAP sensor, IAC sensor — label and cap lines.

4) Remove fuel rail and injectors
- Unplug injector electrical connectors.
- Unbolt fuel rail mounting bolts (keep fuel rail supported). Carefully lift rail with injectors attached; wiggle to free injectors from seats. Do not pry hard. If injectors stick, rock gently. Catch any fuel in pan and cap lines.
- Inspect and replace injector O‑rings if dried/cracked.

5) Unbolt intake manifold
- Identify all manifold bolts. Loosen bolts in several passes in a crisscross pattern from outside toward center (reverse of tightening). Use extensions/universal joint as needed.
- Remove bolts and lift intake manifold evenly. If stuck, tap lightly — do not pry between head and manifold surfaces. Keep intake ports covered immediately once manifold is off.

6) Clean sealing surfaces
- Remove old gasket material using plastic scraper and solvent. Do not gouge surfaces. Clean bolt holes of debris and thread condition. Blow out or vacuum ports and bolt holes.
- Inspect mating surfaces for warpage, cracks, or corrosion. Clean coolant passages.

7) Prep new gaskets & install
- Place new intake gaskets on head (align dowels if present). Use small dots of manufacturer-recommended RTV only where the manual requires (often not necessary—follow gasket instructions).
- Seat manifold onto gaskets carefully, aligning all ports and dowels.

8) Torque manifold bolts
- Start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten in sequence in several stages: snug all bolts, then torque to final value in a crisscross pattern from center outward.
- Use factory torque specs. Typical TJ 4.0L intake torque falls in the 18–25 ft·lb range but verify with service manual for exact sequence and values. Tighten in 3 progressive passes (e.g., 10 ft·lb, 18 ft·lb, final torque).

9) Reinstall fuel rail, injectors, throttle body, sensors
- Lubricate new injector O‑rings slightly and seat injectors into manifold/rail. Bolt fuel rail down. Reconnect electrical connectors.
- Reinstall throttle body with new gasket, reconnect linkage and sensors. Reconnect vacuum lines and hoses per labels.

10) Refill coolant, reconnect battery
- Refill cooling system with proper coolant mix. Bleed air per Jeep procedure: heater on high, open bleeder if equipped, run engine to thermostat open, top off.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.

11) Prime fuel & test
- Turn key to ON (do not crank) several times to prime fuel pump and pressurize rail. Check for fuel leaks at injectors, rail, and lines.
- Start engine and run at idle. Inspect for coolant leaks, vacuum leaks (hose whistling), and listen for misfires. Check for check engine light; clear codes if necessary.

12) Final check
- After test drive, re-torque bolts if service manual calls for recheck. Re-check coolant and fuel for leaks. Re-inspect hose clamps and vacuum fittings.

How specific tools are used
- Torque wrench: used for final bolt tightening to specified ft·lb. Tighten in stages and follow sequence. Do not over-torque.
- Fuel pressure relief/Schrader tool: attach to Schrader valve to relieve pressure safely into rag or catch can before disconnecting lines.
- Fuel line disconnect tool: if equipped, this disengages the quick-disconnect fittings on the fuel lines. Slide tool over line and push to release collar.
- Gasket scraper: use plastic or brass to avoid gouging. Remove residues until surface is clean and flat.
- Universal joint and extensions: allow access to hard-to-reach manifold bolts at angles.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Stripped or broken bolts: break bolts often when over-tightened or corroded. Inspect and replace suspect bolts. Use penetrating oil beforehand. Start bolts by hand.
- Cross-threading bolts: always start bolts by hand and ensure correct alignment.
- Not replacing O‑rings: old injector O‑rings leak fuel/air; replace them.
- Getting debris into ports: keep intake ports covered immediately after removing manifold.
- Not following torque sequence: can cause leaks or manifold warpage. Use correct sequence and torque steps.
- Forgetting to relieve fuel pressure: leads to fuel spray and fire risk.
- Improper sealant use: excess RTV can flow into ports; use only where specified.
- Cooling system air pockets: bleed properly or you’ll overheat.

Final notes
- Always confirm torque specs and bolt sequence with a Jeep TJ service manual for your model year/engine.
- If manifold or head surfaces are badly warped or corroded, consider machining or replacement.
- Replace any brittle vacuum/coolant hoses and clamps while you have access.

No further questions.
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