Direct, ordered procedure with the theory behind each step. Assumptions: your TE‑20 either has been retrofitted with an electro‑hydraulic transmission control or you’re referring to an aftermarket transmission/servo pack that uses electrical solenoids. The original factory TE‑20 gearbox is purely mechanical/hydraulic and has no electronic solenoid pack — if yours does, the steps below apply.

Safety and tools (do before any work)
1. Safety first: isolate battery negative, run engine to warm trans/hydraulic fluid then stop and park on level ground, block wheels. Wear eye/hand protection. Theory: warm fluid flows and drains more completely and solenoid operation can be tested without engine running once battery is isolated.
2. Tools: multimeter, 12 V supply or jumper lead for bench test, basic hand tools, seal/O‑ring kit, torque wrench, clean rags, drain pan, hydraulic fluid matching spec. Theory: electrical coils and fluid seals are the two failure domains; you need meters and a proper replacement kit.

Diagnosis (confirm the solenoid pack is the fault)
3. Symptom checklist: no gear shifts, stuck in gear, delayed shift, intermittent engagement, transmission fault lights, internal fluid leaks, or visible external leakage at the pack. Theory: solenoids control hydraulic flow to shift pistons/clutches; loss of electrical actuation or hydraulic sealing will produce those symptoms.
4. Electrical check: disconnect pack connector, measure coil resistance for each solenoid with multimeter (expected: tens of ohms to a few hundred ohms depending on design). Apply 12 V briefly to each coil (single jumper) and listen/feel for click (solenoid actuation). Theory: a coil with an open circuit or no audible click is electrically defective; coil magnetism moves the internal plunger/spool to route fluid.
5. Hydraulic/mechanical check: with pack off the valve body (or with access ports) you can energize coils and check for spool movement or for hydraulic pressure change. Also inspect for fluid contamination in lines and for leak-down. Theory: even a live coil will not shift if the spool is stuck by varnish/debris or if seals are blown — electrical good but mechanical stuck still fails to control hydraulic pressure.

Removal (in order)
6. Depressurize and drain: remove/transmit/hydraulic drain plug(s) and lower fluid level below pack to reduce spillage. Theory: prevents fluid loss and contamination of work area and makes removal cleaner.
7. Mark connectors/lines: tag and photograph electrical connectors and hydraulic lines so orientation is preserved. Theory: solenoid packs are orientation‑sensitive — incorrect reconnection routes pressure incorrectly.
8. Disconnect electrical connector(s) and release any retaining clips. Remove hydraulic lines from the pack, catching fluid and capping lines to keep dirt out. Theory: this isolates the pack electrically and hydraulically so you can remove it without contamination.
9. Remove mounting fasteners and lift the pack straight out. Note any dowel pins or indexing features; preserve gaskets. Theory: solenoid packs must be reinstalled with correct alignment to valve body bores to avoid fluid bypass.

Inspection and bench testing
10. Inspect removed pack externally for cracks, damaged connector pins, heavy corrosion, or fluid weeping at seals. Cut open if needed to inspect internal spool and coil. Theory: external clues often indicate internal failure mode (burned coil, leaking O‑rings).
11. Bench electrical test: measure coil resistance again; apply bench 12 V briefly while observing plunger/spool travel. If coil clicks but spool doesn’t move, the spool may be mechanically seized or the coil is weak under load. Theory: coil generates magnetic force to pull the plunger; a stuck spool defeats that force.
12. Inspect and clean internal valve bores and spools. Replace all O‑rings, seals, and any worn spools or sleeves. Theory: most solenoid pack faults are either electrical (coil failure) or hydraulic (worn seals, contaminated fluid, corroded/varnished spools) — new seals restore hydraulic sealing, cleaning restores free spool movement.

Replacement/repair steps (ordered)
13. Replace faulty components: either install a new solenoid pack assembly or rebuild with replacement coils/plungers and O‑ring/seal kit. Theory: new coils restore electromagnetic actuation; new seals restore hydraulic pressure integrity; new spool surface restores correct flow metering and prevents bypass/leakage.
14. Lubricate new O‑rings lightly with clean transmission/hydraulic fluid; fit them in correct grooves. Theory: lubrication prevents damage during installation and ensures immediate seal function; nitrile/fluoroelastomer compatibility matters.
15. Reinstall pack to valve body aligning dowel pins and tightening bolts in a cross pattern to the manufacturer torque. If factory torque specs are unavailable, tighten evenly to seat but do not over‑torque. Reconnect hydraulic lines and electrical connectors using original routing. Theory: uniform clamping prevents warping and ensures even compression of gaskets; correct routing prevents kinking and electrical faults.

Refill, bleed, and test
16. Refill transmission/hydraulic fluid to correct level with specified fluid. Remove any air by operating hydraulic controls per manual (cycling shifter/implement) with the engine off initially, then run engine and cycle under load as required. Theory: trapped air compresses and prevents stable hydraulic pressure; bleeding restores predictable pressure for solenoid‑controlled operations.
17. Functional test: with engine running, energize solenoids (normal system control) and verify gear shifts and engagement under low load, then increase load. Monitor for leaks, overheating, electrical anomalies. Theory: proper operation shows electromagnetic actuation produces spool movement, which routes pressure to shift pistons/clutches producing the mechanical result. Confirm that faults (no shift, slow engagement, slipping) are resolved.
18. Final checks: torque re‑check, inspect for leaks after a short run, recheck fluid level after warm‑up. Theory: some leaks or settling appear only after a short period of operation.

How the repair fixes the fault — theory summary
- Electrical failure (open/shorted coil): replacing the coil or pack restores the electromagnetic force required to move the plunger/spool. Without it the spool cannot change position and hydraulic flow remains in the wrong circuit; with it restored the spool shifts on command, routing pressure to the clutch/shift actuator.
- Mechanical seizure/vairnish/contamination: cleaning or replacing spools restores free movement. A stuck spool prevents flow change even with a good coil; restoring free travel allows the coil to move the spool and change pressure paths.
- Worn/damaged O‑rings or seals: replacement stops internal bypass and external leaks. Internal bypass prevents the required pressure differential for actuation; new seals restore proper pressure to the piston/clutch.
- Electrical connector/cable faults: restoring proper connection restores control signals and power to coils.
- Overall: solenoids convert electrical control signals into hydraulic valve positions; replacing or repairing the pack restores that electromechanical-to‑hydraulic conversion so the transmission receives the correct pressures at the correct time and performs the intended gear changes/engagements.

Quick troubleshooting tips (concise)
- No click from coil + infinite multimeter reading = open coil → replace coil/pack.
- Click present but no hydraulic action = stuck spool, bad seal, or blocked passage → remove pack, clean and replace seals.
- Intermittent operation = corroded connector or intermittent coil → clean/replace harness.
- External leakage at pack = worn O‑rings/gasket → replace seals and retorque.

Done.
rteeqp73

1949 Ferguson TE20 Doesn't want to run One of my neighbours has an old Ferguson that's giving him fits. Lets help him out and see what's going on with it.

How to Adjust the Hydraulics on a Ferguson TE20 Tractor Hello Im Lance (aka Bundy Bear) and doing these videos is my hobby. I do own Queensland Tractor Spares in Australia where I ...

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