Tools & supplies (minimum)
- Windshield removal: wire saw (cut-out wire with handles or powered wire saw), cold-knife/push blade, utility knives, trim/panel pry tools, suction cup lifters, windshield setting blocks (shims), caulking gun for 1- or 2-part urethane cartridges, urethane adhesive (automotive windshield urethane), glass primer (silane), pinch-weld/metal primer, isopropyl alcohol or glass cleaner (no silicone), shop towels, new windshield, new moldings/seal (if brittle), replacement pinch-weld clips/trim clips.
- Chip repair: windshield resin kit (bridge/adhesive ring + injector or vacuum/pressure injector), resin, curing (UV) lamp, razor blades, drill bits for laminated glass (if kit requires), vacuum pump (if kit uses), cleaning supplies.
- PPE & misc: nitrile gloves, safety glasses, respirator (organic vapor for urethane/isocyanates), heat gun, tape, marker, torque/ratchet set (for cowl/wiper removal), tarp/drop cloth, bucket, running water hose for leak test.

Safety precautions
- Work in a well‑ventilated area; urethane and primers are hazardous. Wear respirator when priming/using urethane.
- Eye protection and cut‑resistant gloves for glass removal.
- Support hood/dash/cowl to avoid damage. Protect paint and interior with drop cloths.
- Disconnect battery if removing any electrical components (wipers, sensors).
- Keep bystanders away; broken glass is dangerous.
- Follow manufacturer’s cure and drive‑away time for adhesive before driving.

A. Chip repair (small bulls‑eye/star up to ~1" / snap crack <3")
1. Assess damage: if chip is in driver’s critical view or deep (through laminated interlayer) or crack >3–6 in, recommend full replacement. Chip repair best for center chips up to ~1" and star breaks with short legs.
2. Clean area: remove loose glass and any moisture/debris with compressed air/clean cloth. Do not use silicone-based cleaners.
3. Set up bridge injector: center suction bridge over chip; seal adhesive ring to glass per kit instructions.
4. Create vacuum: use injector pump to pull air/contaminants from crack. Maintain vacuum 30–60 seconds (or per kit).
5. Inject resin: apply resin under pressure into vacuumed area until resin fills void and bleeds out. Repeat vacuum/pressure cycles if kit instructs to remove trapped air.
6. Cure: apply UV lamp per resin manufacturer time until resin hardens fully. Sunlight can be used but is slower/less reliable.
7. Finish: remove bridge, scrape cured resin flush with a new single‑edge razor blade at a 45° angle. Polish if needed.
8. Inspect: verify clarity and structural fill. If black core or moisture persists, chip may need replacement.

B. Full windshield removal and replacement (for cracks, edge breaks, major damage)
1. Preparation
- Park on level surface, inside if possible. Remove wipers, cowl top, mirror, sensors, moldings, and trim pieces. Label/keep fasteners.
- Protect dash and hood with covers.
- Remove old glass trim/moldings carefully; replace if brittle.
2. Cut out old urethane
- Score and remove outer moldings. Use a cut‑out wire or cold knife: feed wire between glass and pinch weld and saw through urethane. For powered wire saw, follow tool safety with guards and protect paint with tape. Use a second person to control glass.
- If using a cold knife, keep blade flat, work slowly to avoid cutting paint.
- Remove windshield with suction cups and lift straight out. Have a helper — glass is heavy/awkward.
3. Clean pinch weld/frame
- Remove all old urethane down to bare metal using plastic scrapers and a razor (be careful not to gouge metal). Use a wire brush or scotch‑brite to remove residue; solvent wipe with isopropyl alcohol.
- Inspect for rust or body filler; sand and treat/prime any bare metal. Replace any damaged pinch‑weld clips.
4. Masking and priming
- Mask the paint 1–2" away from edge to protect from primer/adhesive.
- Apply metal primer to exposed pinch weld per urethane manufacturer instructions. Let tack per product spec.
- Apply glass primer to the windshield flange where urethane will contact (both new glass and vehicle frame require their specific primers). Allow recommended flash time — not over dry.
5. Urethane bead application and placement
- Prepare urethane cartridge; cut nozzle to achieve recommended bead diameter (commonly 6–8 mm for OEM). Use a quality caulking gun with consistent pressure.
- Place setting blocks onto pinch weld at specified positions to control glass height and prevent over‑compression of bead (OEM spec).
- Apply continuous, even bead of urethane around flange — avoid gaps, vary angle slightly inward toward glass center to create a proper seal.
- Using suction cups, lift new windshield and lower straight down onto urethane bead, seating it squarely and evenly. Do not slide once contact is made.
- Press gently to compress bead uniformly; ensure glass rests on setting blocks, not on adhesive alone. Attach clips as required but do not over‑torque.
6. Cleanup and curing
- Remove excess urethane immediately with solvent recommended by adhesive maker. Clean glass edges. Reinstall trim and moldings (some prefer to install after partial cure — follow adhesive instructions). Reinstall wipers, cowl, mirror, sensors.
- Observe manufacturer drive‑away time: many urethanes require 1–24 hours depending on product and temperature; do not drive vehicle until minimum drive‑away time has elapsed.
- Perform leak test after full cure (water hose test) and inspect interior for adhesive leakage.
7. Final checks
- Ensure rearview mirror and sensors are mounted and calibrated if necessary. Check for wind noise at highway speeds after curing.

How each tool is used (concise)
- Wire saw/cut‑out wire: wrapped around handles and pulled back‑and‑forth to slice through urethane between glass and frame. Protect paint and work slowly to avoid cutting into metal. Powered wire saws oscillate the wire; keep tension even and use protective backing.
- Cold knife: inserted between glass and pinch weld, pushed/pulled to cut urethane. Requires steady hand and blade replacement often.
- Suction cups: attach to glass to lift and maneuver; use two‑person lift for safety.
- Urethane gun: holds cartridge; cut nozzle to proper diameter, keep bead continuous and consistent.
- Bridge injector (chip repair): seals to windshield, creates vacuum to pull air and moisture out of void, then injects resin under pressure; vacuum cycles help remove trapped air and moisture.
- UV lamp: cures resin in chip repair rapidly and evenly; hold close to cured resin as specified.

Replacement parts typically required
- New windshield (OEM or aftermarket)
- Windshield moldings/seals (replace if cracked or brittle)
- Pinch‑weld clips/fasteners (often single‑use)
- Urethane adhesive cartridge(s) and primers (glass primer, metal primer)
- Mirror mounting adhesive or pad if mirror removed
- Optional: new wiper arms if corroded, cowl clips

Common pitfalls to avoid
- Not removing all old urethane — causes poor adhesion and leaks.
- Skipping primers or using wrong primer — adhesive failure.
- Contaminated surfaces (oil, wax, silicone) — prevents bonding.
- Incorrect bead size or discontinuous bead — leaks or wind noise.
- Placing glass directly on metal or over‑compressing bead — squeezes out seal and reduces bond thickness.
- Not using setting blocks — leads to improper glass height and stress points.
- Over‑torquing clips or driving before cure — glass can shift or pop out.
- Attempting chip repair on unsuitable damage (edge cracks, large branching cracks, chipped lamination) — will fail and weaken safety.
- Damaging paint or pinch weld with tools — rust/fitment problems later.

Quick cure/driveaway guidance
- Follow adhesive manufacturer for “safe drive‑away” time — commonly 1–2 hours for modern fast‑cure urethanes at warm temps, but up to 24 hours in cold or for older products. When in doubt, wait longer.

Result expectations
- Properly performed repair restores structural integrity for small chips and prevents spread. Full replacement restores original fit/seal and occupant protection when adhesive cured to spec.

That’s the procedure.
rteeqp73

Ka24e Rocker arm I disassemble a Nissan Ka24e Rocker arm to try and determine what causes them to stick.

Hydraulic Lifter Refurbishing | VG30E/T How to inspect and clean hydraulic lifters. Basically the same idea for all types but this is for a nissan 3.0 V6 (VG30E/T)

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