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Toyota 1HZ 1PZ 1HD-T engine factory workshop and repair manual

Tools & consumables
- Basic hand tools: ratchet, breaker bar, 1/4" & 3/8" drive sets, sockets (8–24 mm, deep sockets), combination wrenches (8–24 mm).
- Torque wrench (range covering 10–150 Nm).
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist, Kroil), wire brush, steel wool.
- Penetrating heat source (oxy/propane torch) for seized studs (use with caution).
- Hammer, punch, pry bar.
- Exhaust hanger removal tool (or large screwdriver/pliers).
- Sawzall (reciprocating saw) or angle grinder with cutoff wheel (for badly corroded pipes).
- Exhaust clamps, new studs/bolts/nuts, anti-seize compound (high-temp).
- New exhaust gaskets (manifold-to-pipe, flange gaskets), replacement hangers/isolation mounts as needed.
- Jack, quality jack stands, wheel chocks, block of wood.
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, respirator if cutting rusty metal.
- Shop rags, cardboard or drip tray.

Safety precautions (must do)
1. Work on a cool engine — exhaust must be cold. Burning metal/parts cause serious injury.
2. Park on level ground, chock wheels. Use a jack only as a lift; always support on jack stands.
3. Disconnect negative battery terminal if working near wiring or sensors.
4. Ventilate if running engine to check leaks. Never run a vehicle in an enclosed space without fresh air.
5. Use proper PPE when cutting/wire brushing (eye, ear, respirator, gloves).
6. When heating bolts/studs, keep flammable materials away and have a fire extinguisher ready.

Overview / scope
These Toyota diesel engines (1HZ, 1PZ, 1HD-T) share similar exhaust layouts: manifold → front/downpipe (on turbo 1HD-T this connects to turbo) → center pipe → rear muffler. The procedure below covers removing/replacing an exhaust pipe section (manifold flange, front/downpipe, center, or rear). Adjust which flange you start at depending on which section you replace.

Step-by-step procedure

Preparation
1. Gather replacement parts: correct exhaust gasket(s) for your model/section, flange bolts/studs/nuts (replace corroded hardware), new clamps or band clamps, rubber isolators if worn. Have anti-seize ready.
2. Jack vehicle, place on jack stands, block wheels. Ensure stable support underneath center of vehicle and near rear axle.
3. Let engine cool thoroughly.

Removal
1. Spray penetrating oil on all flange nuts, studs, clamp bolts and hangers. Let soak 10–30 minutes (longer on very rusty studs).
2. Remove heat shields if they obstruct access (usually small 10–12 mm bolts).
3. Support the section being removed with a transmission jack, floor jack with wood block, or a helper. Do not let the exhaust droop unsupported — it’s heavy and will strain hangers.
4. If replacing a section downstream from the turbo (1HD-T), start unbolting at the downstream flange so you can lower the section as one piece. For manifold-to-pipe connections, remove manifold heat shield first, then nuts on manifold studs.
5. Remove O2 sensor/exhaust temp sensors (if present) before separating flanges — use appropriate O2 socket and protect threads.
6. Loosen and remove clamp bolts or flange nuts. Use breaker bar for stubborn nuts. If nuts/studs are seized:
- Apply more penetrating oil and work back-and-forth with breaker bar.
- Use heat on the nut (not the stud) to expand the nut and break rust bond.
- As last resort, cut the flange bolts or saw through pipe at an accessible place; plan to replace any cut parts or flanges.
7. Detach exhaust from rubber hangers using hanger tool or pry out gently with pliers. Remove the section and set aside carefully.

Cleaning & prep
1. Wire-brush mating flange faces to remove carbon and rust. Ensure surfaces are flat; if severely damaged, replace flange or pipe section.
2. Inspect studs. If any are bent, corroded or threads damaged, replace with new stud/bolt set. Use anti-seize on new studs/bolts threads before installation.
3. Replace rubber hangers if cracked or weak.

Installation
1. Fit new gaskets in correct orientation. Do not use gasket sealers unless specified — most exhaust gaskets should be installed dry or with a light smear of high-temp anti-seize if manufacturer suggests.
2. Raise and align the exhaust section; hang on isolators first, then align flanges. Finger-tighten nuts/bolts only at first so you can adjust alignment.
3. For clamped joints: position clamp centered over joint, tighten evenly but avoid crushing the pipes — clamp torque should be snug sufficient to stop leaks; final torque to manufacturer spec if given for clamp.
4. For flange bolts: tighten alternately to draw flanges together uniformly. Final torque — follow Toyota factory torque spec. If factory spec not at hand, tighten incrementally and check for leaks; do not overtighten and shear studs.
5. Reinstall sensors and torque them to spec. Refit heat shields.

Post-installation checks
1. Lower vehicle off stands.
2. Start engine and listen for leaks. Small leaks often show as ticking at cold start that quiets after warm-up; major leaks will be audible. If leaks present, re-tighten bolts/clamps with engine cold, or tighten after a warm cycle (heat cycling can change clamp tension — recheck and retorque after first few heat cycles).
3. Inspect for contact with chassis, fuel/brake lines, and driveline. Ensure adequate clearance for engine movement.
4. Re-check fasteners after 50–100 km / first use.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Snapped studs/bolts: Penetrate, heat, and use breaker bar rather than an impact to avoid breaking studs. If a stud snaps, drill and extract or cut and replace flange.
- Reusing rusty gaskets or hardware: Replace gaskets and heavily corroded nuts/studs. Reused hardware leads to leaks or failure.
- Poor support: Not supporting the exhaust when unbolting flanges causes sudden drop and damage to pipes or hangers — always jack/support.
- Over-tightening clamps: Over-crushing a clamp or pipe deforms the joint and can create leaks. Tighten evenly.
- Incorrect gasket orientation/fit: Ensure gasket faces align with matching flange surfaces and any bolt holes match.
- Heat shield omission: Do not omit heat shields; they protect wiring and plastic lines from heat.
- Damaging sensors: When removing/installing O2 or temp sensors, use correct sockets and do not cross-thread — use anti-seize sparingly on sensor threads (not on the tip).
- Clearance issues after installation: Misaligned pipes can contact body or lines — check while engine is idling and at full temp for movement.

When cutting is required
- Use sawzall or cutoff wheel only as a last resort. Make straight cuts for easier mating with new pipe. Protect surrounding parts (heat shields, lines).
- Plan to replace any flanges/sections cut or any clamps that were sacrificed.

Replacement parts checklist (common)
- Exhaust flange gaskets (manifold-to-front pipe, front-to-center, center-to-rear).
- New flange nuts/bolts or stud kit.
- Exhaust clamps or band clamps.
- Rubber hangers/isolation mounts.
- Section pipes (front/downpipe, center pipe, rear muffler) or complete exhaust assembly if corroded.
- O2/exhaust temp sensors if faulty.

Final notes
- Always follow Toyota factory service manual torque specs and sequence where available.
- Work methodically: loosen few bolts, support, remove, replace, then tighten evenly.
- If unsure about extracting a broken stud or cutting near turbo/downpipe, consider a machine shop or exhaust specialist to avoid collateral damage.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

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