- Essential safety and reality check
- Work under vehicle only on rated jack stands on level ground, wear eye protection, gloves, and use wheel chocks; automatic transmission components are heavy, spring-loaded, and fluid is hot — proceed only if you accept the risk.
- Automatic transmission clutch packs are inside the transmission; repair means removing and disassembling the transmission. This is advanced; expect several hours to days and a clean workspace.

- Overview of what “automatic clutch repair” means for a Toyota 22R / 22R‑E
- Refers to clutch packs and bands inside the automatic transmission (and possibly the torque converter clutch). Symptoms that lead to repair: slipping under load, burned smell, delayed engagement, shudder, or inability to hold gears.
- Typical fix is a transmission rebuild: replace worn friction plates and steels, seals and gaskets, sometimes bands, replace torque converter or its clutch, and refresh fluid/filter.

- Must-have basic tools (what they are, how to use them, why required)
- Socket set (metric deep and shallow sockets, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drives)
- What it is: wrenching sockets and ratchets in common sizes.
- How to use: pick correct socket for fastener, use ratchet to loosen/tighten. Use extensions for recessed bolts.
- Why required: multiple transmission and bellhousing bolts, converter bolts, crossmember and drivetrain bolts require sockets.
- Combination wrench set (metric)
- What it is: open-end and box-end wrenches.
- How to use: use box end for high torque, open end for tight spaces. Hold opposite side while loosening to prevent rounding.
- Why required: some bolts are inaccessible with a socket.
- Torque wrench (1/2" drive, capable of 10–150 ft·lb)
- What it is: wrench that applies specified torque.
- How to use: set to required torque, tighten until it clicks; use for bellhousing, torque converter, and crossmember bolts.
- Why required: correct torque is critical to avoid failures and leaks.
- Jack and jack stands (rated for your vehicle weight)
- What it is: hydraulic floor jack and sturdy jack stands.
- How to use: raise vehicle with floor jack at designated lift points; place stands on solid frame points; lower the vehicle onto stands.
- Why required: safe access under vehicle; never rely on the jack alone.
- Transmission jack or heavy-duty floor jack with adapter and cribbing
- What it is: jack with saddle and safety strap designed to support and raise/lower transmissions.
- How to use: position under transmission, strap it, lower support slowly while unbolting and sliding transmission off engine.
- Why required: automatic transmissions are heavy and awkward; a proper transmission jack prevents dropping and injury.
- Engine support or crossmember support bar (if engine must be supported)
- What it is: device that supports the engine when the transmission is removed.
- How to use: mount per instructions and transfer engine weight from transmission to support.
- Why required: prevents engine from tilting forward when bellhousing removed.
- Pry bars and flat screwdrivers (assorted sizes)
- What it is: metal levers and screwdrivers.
- How to use: use to gently separate bellhousing, remove clips, pry out seals. Protect surfaces with block of wood to avoid damage.
- Why required: separation of parts and removal of stuck components.
- Drain pan and fluid pump / suction gun
- What it is: container for old ATF and hand pump to refill.
- How to use: drain fluid into pan, use pump to add new fluid through dipstick tube.
- Why required: capture and replace fluid; ATF is messy and must be disposed responsibly.
- Seal puller and small slide hammer or bearing puller set
- What it is: tools to remove seals and press out bearings.
- How to use: hook and pull seals or use puller jaws to extract bearings.
- Why required: remove old oil seals and bearings without damaging housings.
- Snap ring pliers (internal and external)
- What it is: pliers sized to remove/install snap rings.
- How to use: compress or expand snap ring to remove/install grooves.
- Why required: many clutch packs and hub assemblies are retained by snap rings.
- Punch and drift set, brass and steel punches
- What it is: set of metal rods for driving pins and aligning parts.
- How to use: support part, drive out roll pins or guide studs with correct drift size; use brass to avoid marring.
- Why required: removal of roll pins, dowels, and pressing components.
- Shop press or arbor press (optional but useful)
- What it is: hydraulic or mechanical press used to press bearings and bushings.
- How to use: align parts and press evenly; use correct adapters.
- Why required: some bushings and bearings require pressing; doable with care by hand for some jobs but press ensures safe, straight application.
- Torque converter holding tool or impact gun for converter bolts (or strong breaker bar)
- What it is: tool to hold converter or driver to loosen/tighten bolts.
- How to use: hold converter through starter holes or use tool; loosen bolts with breaker bar or impact.
- Why required: converter bolts are tight and require counter-holding.
- Clean bench, parts trays, labels, camera/phone for reference
- What it is: clean surface and containers to organize small parts.
- How to use: lay out parts in order, take photos during disassembly, label bags.
- Why required: transmission reassembly requires parts in exact order and cleanliness to avoid contamination.

- Specialty tools (detailed, how to use, why you likely need them)
- Transmission jack adapter or cradle
- What it is: saddle that secures transmission on jack.
- How to use: bolt or strap adapter to jack and cradle transmission.
- Why required: prevents the transmission from tipping when removing/installing.
- Clutch plate compressor or spring compressor (for specific assemblies)
- What it is: tool to compress clutch stack when installing snap rings.
- How to use: compress evenly, install snap ring, then release slowly.
- Why required: clutch packs must be compressed to fit retaining rings; trying by brute force risks damage.
- Seal driver/installer kit (multiple diameters)
- What it is: tubular drivers sized to install oil seals flush without damage.
- How to use: seat seal squarely and tap evenly until flush.
- Why required: prevents seal distortion and leaks.
- Bushing driver and replacement bushings (if bushings are worn)
- What it is: matched tools to press in new bushings.
- How to use: drive in new bushing to correct depth using press or hammer and driver.
- Why required: worn bushings cause pump clearance problems and poor hydraulic pressure.
- Dial caliper / micrometer and feeler gauges
- What it is: measuring tools for plate thickness, drum clearances, and endplay.
- How to use: measure reference dimensions and compare to spec.
- Why required: must measure parts to know what to replace; clearances determine whether rebuild is successful.
- Service manual and transmission exploded diagrams (paper or digital)
- What it is: official Toyota or aftermarket transmission rebuild manual.
- How to use: follow disassembly/reassembly order, torque specs, clearances, fluid type.
- Why required: provides critical torque values, clearances, and step sequence; don’t attempt blind.

- Consumables and replacement parts commonly required (what, why, and selection)
- Transmission rebuild kit (friction plates, steel plates, seals, O-rings, gaskets, bushings if included)
- Why: clutch friction materials wear and steels warp; seals harden; kit ensures all wear items replaced for a reliable rebuild.
- Selection: buy a kit specific to your transmission model or the vehicle year; aftermarket quality varies — prefer kits with OEM or high-quality parts.
- New torque converter or torque converter rebuild / clutch (if converter is damaged)
- Why: failed torque converter clutch or contaminated converter will ruin a rebuilt transmission. If slippage, shudder, or metal contamination found, replace converter.
- Selection: buy new or remanufactured matched to transmission.
- Filter and pan gasket (if externally accessible)
- Why: filter replacement mandatory on rebuild; pan gasket prevents leaks.
- Selection: OEM-style filter and proper gasket material.
- Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) — correct type for your year and model
- Why: needed for operation and to flush contamination; wrong fluid harms shift quality.
- Selection: use Toyota-specified ATF (consult manual) or equivalent.
- Snap rings, small hardware, and new bolts where specified
- Why: soft or stretched snap rings and torque converter bolts should be replaced per manual to maintain retention.
- Valve body gasket(s), solenoids (if faulty), and bore sleeve seals (as needed)
- Why: valve body leaks or bad solenoids cause shifting problems; replace if damaged or during rebuild.

- High-level repair procedure (bulleted sequence — every step is critical; refer to manual for torque/clearances)
- Disconnect battery and cool engine; drain ATF into pan by removing pan or drain plug.
- Raise vehicle securely on jack stands and support engine if necessary.
- Remove driveshaft, starter, linkage, wiring harness connectors, cooling lines, and anything attached to transmission.
- Support transmission on transmission jack, remove crossmember(s), loosen and remove bellhousing bolts while supporting transmission; slide transmission rearward off engine and lower on jack.
- Unbolt torque converter from flexplate (may need to rotate engine to access bolts), then remove torque converter from transmission.
- Clean exterior of transmission, place on bench; remove transmission pan and filter, then remove valve body if accessing clutch packs from valve-body side (depending on transmission).
- Disassemble gearset and front/rear cases per manual to access clutch drums and packs — keep parts in order and label.
- Inspect clutch friction plates and steel plates: look for glazing, burnt smell, discoloration, scoring, or warpage. Measure thickness against specs with caliper.
- Replace all worn/damaged friction plates and steels from rebuild kit; clean drums and bore surfaces; replace bushings, seals, and snap rings as required.
- Inspect pump, torque converter hub, and input shaft for wear; replace bushings or pump if tolerances out of spec.
- Replace valve body gaskets, check and test solenoids, and clean valve body passages; replace any faulty solenoids.
- Reassemble clutch packs and drums, ensuring correct plate order and orientation; use clutch compressor or appropriate method to compress stacks and install snap rings.
- Reinstall valve body with new gaskets, torque to spec, reinstall filter and pan with new gasket.
- Bolt torque converter to flexplate (or install converter onto transmission input splines then bolt to flexplate after mating), torque bolts to spec, and rotate to ensure seating.
- Raise and align transmission to engine, install bellhousing bolts to spec, secure crossmember, reconnect starter, driveshaft, linkage, and wiring.
- Refill ATF to recommended level, start engine and cycle through gears to circulate fluid, check for leaks, and road test to verify shifts.

- What to watch for during inspection (when replacement is required)
- Friction plates: if thin, glazed, cracked, or contaminated with metal or burnt, replace the entire set.
- Steel plates: if warped (heat discoloration, blueing) or scored, replace.
- Seals and gaskets: if hardened, cracked, or leaking, replace.
- Bushings/pump: excessive play, scoring, or out-of-spec clearances — requires replacement to restore hydraulic pressure.
- Torque converter: if converter contains clutch material contamination, has bearing noise, shudder, or internal damage — replace or rebuild.
- Valve body/solenoids: slipping/harsh shifts often linked to solenoid failure or valve body wear — replace faulty solenoids and gaskets.

- Extra tools you might think you can skip but shouldn’t (and why)
- Transmission jack: trying to handle the transmission with a floor jack or by hand is dangerous and risks dropping/damaging components.
- Torque wrench: tightening critical bolts by feel leads to leaks or failures.
- Seal driver and snap ring pliers: improvised methods damage seals and snap rings and cause leaks or catastrophic failures.
- Measuring tools (caliper/micrometer): guessing thickness/clearance can cause premature failure of a rebuild.

- Final checks and break-in
- Use correct ATF type and fill to the specified level; check level hot and with engine idling per manual.
- Perform low-speed break-in and avoid heavy towing for first 500–1,000 miles; recheck fluid level and inspect for leaks.
- If any metal contamination was found in fluid, perform multiple fluid changes and consider replacing the torque converter.

- If you are a complete beginner: recommended alternatives
- Consider a professional transmission shop or purchasing a remanufactured transmission bolt-in unit — safer, often cheaper in time and tooling cost.
- If you still proceed yourself, get the exact Toyota transmission service manual for your model/year and follow it step-by-step.

- Quick parts list to buy before starting (minimum)
- Transmission rebuild kit specific to your transmission
- Torque converter (new or reman) or inspection kit
- Pan gasket and filter
- Correct ATF (several quarts as specified)
- New torque converter bolts and any specified hardware
- Snap rings or small hardware per manual

- Disposal and cleanup
- Collect used ATF and dispose at an authorized recycling center; clean parts with appropriate solvent and keep a clean assembly area to avoid contamination.

- Closing practical note (concise)
- This job requires time, tools, and cleanliness; missing a special tool or measurement step will likely result in a failed rebuild — get the service manual and proper tools before you begin.
rteeqp73

Toyota Engine 22R won't start after sitting for a while 1986 Toyota Pickup with engine 22R needs starting fluid sprayed in intake after sitting for a few days.

Toyota 22RE ECU and MAF test. This video is for eBay purposes to show this air flow sensor and ECU are in good working order. Items are listed under eBay seller ...

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