Tools & consumables
- Metric feeler gauge set (0.10–0.40 mm blades).
- Small flat screwdriver or Allen/hex key to hold the adjusting screw (size depends on the screw head).
- Open-end wrenches to suit the adjuster locknut and screw (commonly 10–14 mm). A thin 10–12 mm wrench is often required.
- Socket and breaker/ratchet to turn the crank pulley (correct size for crank bolt; usually 19–24 mm).
- Torque wrench (for reassembly where specified).
- Shop rags, solvent/degreaser, small brush.
- New valve cover gasket (recommended).
- Anti-seize or light thread locker (optional, for screw threads if manufacturer recommends).
- Safety gear: gloves, eye protection.
- Jack and stands (if vehicle raised) and wheel chocks.

Safety first
- Work with the engine cold. Hot engines give inaccurate clearances and can burn you.
- Park on a flat surface, chock wheels, set parking brake. If you lift the vehicle use rated jack stands.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal if you will be working near ignition wiring or sensors.
- Keep fingers, tools and clothing away from moving parts when rotating the engine. Turn the crank only by the bolt on the crank pulley; never by the cam or rocker.
- Make sure the engine cannot be started accidentally (key removed).

Valve clearance specs (typical for Toyota B-series diesels: B / 3B / 11B / 13B)
- Intake valve clearance (cold): 0.20 mm (0.008 in)
- Exhaust valve clearance (cold): 0.30 mm (0.012 in)
Note: Confirm these numbers against a factory/service manual for your exact engine variant and model year. Use the specified values if different.

Overview of method
You will remove the rocker (valve) cover, bring each cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke (so both valves for that cylinder are fully closed and the rocker arms feel free), measure clearance with a feeler gauge, adjust by loosening the locknut and turning the adjuster screw until the correct feel, tighten the locknut while holding the adjuster, then re-check. Repeat for every intake and exhaust valve.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1. Preparation
- Gather tools and new valve cover gasket. Clean the top of the rocker cover area to avoid dirt falling in when removed.
- Remove air cleaner and any obstructing components to access the rocker cover.
- Remove all rocker cover bolts and lift the cover. Inspect and replace the gasket if brittle or leaking.

2. Identify TDC (cylinder 1 compression)
- Find the crank pulley timing mark and the fixed pointer on the timing cover. Attach a socket to the crank bolt and rotate the engine clockwise until the timing mark aligns with the TDC mark for cylinder 1.
- Verify TDC compression for cylinder 1 by confirming both rocker arms for cylinder 1 are loose/movable by hand (this indicates both valves are closed). If one rocker is tight, rotate the crank 360° and check again — you’re looking for the compression position where both valves are fully closed.

3. Adjust a valve (general method)
- Insert correct feeler gauge (ex: 0.20 mm for intake or 0.30 mm for exhaust) between the valve tip (or valve stem tip under the rocker) and the underside of the rocker adjusting screw head. You should feel a slight drag when pulling the blade — not loose, not overly tight.
- Loosen the locknut a couple of turns with the appropriate wrench.
- Hold the adjuster screw with the screwdriver or hex key, and turn the screw in or out until the feeler blade has a slight drag.
- While holding the screw steady, tighten the locknut to seat it. Keep the screw from turning while tightening the nut.
- Re-check the clearance after tightening; if it changed, repeat until stable. Do not overtighten — snug the locknut while holding the adjuster; excessive torque can deform the adjuster and change clearance. If you have a torque spec from the manual for the locknut, use the torque wrench.

4. Valve‑adjustment order
- The firing order is 1-3-4-2. Easiest and safest approach: bring each cylinder to TDC compression one at a time and adjust both the intake and exhaust for that cylinder. That means rotate the crank until the two rockers for the target cylinder are loose, then adjust them. Repeat for all cylinders. This avoids confusion about which valves can be adjusted at each rotation.

5. Repeat for all cylinders
- Rotate the crank to the next cylinder’s TDC compression and repeat the adjust procedure for both valves of that cylinder. Continue until all valves (intake and exhaust on every cylinder) are set to specification.

6. Final verification
- After setting all valves, rotate the engine by hand two full revolutions (720°) and re-check every clearance. Repeat any adjustments if needed.
- Clean the rocker cover mating surface; fit a new gasket and reinstall the cover. Tighten cover bolts to the specified torque pattern (light, even pattern). Reinstall removed components.

7. Start engine & test
- Reconnect battery, start the engine and listen for abnormal valve noise. Minor break-in noise can occur but loud ticking may indicate incorrect clearances. Re-check if noisy.

How to use the tools (short)
- Feeler gauge: slide the correct blade between valve tip and rocker. You want a slight drag when you pull the blade. If it slides free -> too loose; if it won’t go in -> too tight.
- Screwdriver/hex for adjuster: hold the screw to set clearance; small turns change clearance by ~0.05–0.10 mm per click — go slowly.
- Open-end wrench on locknut: while holding the adjuster steady, tighten the locknut to seat it; then immediately re-check clearance.
- Crank socket: turn engine clockwise only, slowly, to locate TDC and to index cylinders.

Common pitfalls & traps
- Adjusting on a warm/hot engine — gives incorrect clearances. Always adjust cold.
- Wrong TDC (mixing up compression vs exhaust TDC) — always confirm both rockers for the cylinder are loose.
- Not holding the adjuster while tightening the locknut — clearance will change when the nut is tightened.
- Over-tightening the locknut (or deforming the adjuster) — leads to incorrect clearance and damage. Use a torque spec if available or snug and re-check.
- Using the wrong feeler thickness or poor-quality feeler blades — gives false readings.
- Dirty rocker area — dirt in the head can cause damage when the cover is removed.
- Damaged or rounded adjuster screw heads/locknuts — replace if rounded; don’t attempt to use damaged hardware.
- Ignoring cam/rocker wear — if you cannot achieve proper clearance within the adjustment range, components may be worn (rocker arm, pushrod, valve stem, seat) and need replacement.

When replacement parts are required
- Valve cover gasket — replace whenever you remove the cover (recommended).
- Locknut or adjuster screw — replace if thread damage or rounding.
- Rocker arms or valve adjusters — if surfaces are badly worn or the adjuster cannot be set to specification.
- Pushrods — if bent or worn at the ends (visible scoring or play).
- Valves / seats / guides — if clearance cannot be achieved or if valves are burnt/worn; large or inconsistent clearances and oil burning indicate guide or seat wear.
- Valve springs — if weak or broken; replace in matched sets.
If you encounter parts that are beyond limit, consult the service manual for rebuild/replace procedures and limits.

Service interval guidance
- Follow the factory service schedule. As a rule of thumb with older B-series diesels, check valve clearances every major service interval (many operators do this every 10,000–30,000 km depending on duty and model). Noisy valve train, loss of performance, or excessive smoke are triggers to check sooner.

Final note
Do the job methodically: one cylinder at a time, use the correct feeler sizes, hold the adjuster while tightening, and re-check. If you find you cannot reach specified clearances or you find badly worn parts, plan on replacing rockers/pushrods/valves as required.
rteeqp73

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