Below is a practical, step‑by‑step guide to replacing leaf springs on a Toyota Hiace van written for a beginner mechanic. It includes theory, every component you’ll encounter, tools/parts, what can go wrong, safety points, and clear procedures. Do not skip the safety steps.

Summary theory (why leaf springs matter)
- Function: Leaf springs support the vehicle’s weight, absorb vertical shocks, and (on solid‑axle vehicles like many Hiace models) locate the rear axle fore/aft and laterally. Think of a leaf spring pack like a stack of curved spoons: together they carry load and flex. The pack’s curvature (arch) determines ride height; its stiffness determines load capacity.
- Shackles and hangers: The front eye is usually fixed to a hanger; the rear attaches via a shackle that pivots and lets the spring change length as it flexes—like a hinge on a folding ruler.
- Damping: Friction between leaves provides some damping; shocks handle most damping. Broken/worn leaves or bushings allow excessive movement, noise, sag, poor handling, and can shift the axle.
- Why replace: springs sag (lose arch) with age, leaves crack or break, bushings wear. Symptoms: sagging rear, uneven ride, bottoming out, clunking/shaking, misaligned axle, or visible cracked/broken leaves.

Main components you will see / work with
- Leaf spring pack: stacked leaves joined by center bolt and sometimes spring clamps.
- Center bolt: holds the leaves aligned (not the load-bearing clamp).
- Spring eyes (front and rear): round ends that hold bushings/pins.
- Bushing(s): rubber/urethane in the eyes for vibration isolation and proper fit.
- Shackles and shackle bolts/pins: link the rear eye to frame hanger.
- Hangers: welded/frame mounted bracket at the front of the spring.
- U‑bolts, nuts and a saddle/plate: clamp the axle tube to the spring pack at the spring perch.
- Spring perch / axle pad: flat surface on axle where spring sits (may have an isolator pad).
- Shock absorbers: connect axle to body and damp movement.
- Hardware: nuts, washers, plates, sometimes spring clamps or straps.

Tools & materials (typical)
- Full set of hand tools: sockets (metric), ratchet, breaker bar, extensions, spanners.
- Torque wrench capable of specified torque range.
- Hydraulic floor jack and good quality jack stands (rated for vehicle weight).
- Wheel chocks, gloves, safety glasses.
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD‑40, etc.).
- Hammer, pry bar, rubber mallet.
- Strap(s) to support axle if jack is removed or to prevent sudden drop.
- New leaf spring(s) correct for your Hiace model.
- New U‑bolts, new shackle pins/bolts, new bushings (replace hardware).
- Anti‑seize or thread lubricant where appropriate (check manual).
- Bench vise or C‑clamp (optional for compressing pack/clamps).
- Impact wrench or torch/grinder as last resort for seized bolts (use caution around fuel/brake lines).

Safety first (non‑negotiable)
- Work on level ground. Chock front wheels and set parking brake.
- Never rely on the jack alone; always use jack stands under the frame rated for the load.
- Support the axle with a separate jack or strap before removing U‑bolts. The axle will drop when springs are released.
- If bolts are rusted and you use heat/cutting, be aware of fuel/brake lines and the risk of fire. Have a fire extinguisher.
- Replace U‑bolts and hardware—do not reuse heavily rusted hardware.
- After reassembly, torque to factory spec with vehicle at normal ride height (see note below).

Preparatory checks
- Identify exact model/year of Hiace and buy correct springs; leaf packs are model/year specific.
- Inspect surroundings: brake lines, parking brake cables, wiring near the springs/axle—note any clips that need removal.
- Measure current ride height (axle center to wheel arch) so you can compare after replacement.

Step‑by‑step procedure (typical sequence)
Note: exact positions and bolt sizes vary by year/trim—follow vehicle service manual torque specs. Where I can’t give exact torque values, I tell you what to do instead.

1) Prep vehicle
- Park level, engage park/handbrake, chock front wheels. Loosen rear wheel nuts slightly if you plan to remove wheels.

2) Lift and support
- Lift rear axle with a floor jack under the axle tube (near spring perch), raise enough to put jack stands under the frame rails. Lower the vehicle onto stands so the axle is still supported by the jack but the frame sits on stands.
- Remove the rear wheels if needed for access.

3) Support axle and relieve spring load
- Keep the axle supported with the jack—use a strap to hold the axle if you will remove the jack occasionally. The axle must not fall free.
- Remove or loosen the shock absorber lower mounting bolt/nut to give the axle freedom to drop (some prefer to remove shock entirely).

4) Soak and loosen hardware
- Spray penetrating oil liberally on U‑bolts, shackle bolts, hanger bolts, and center bolt. Let it soak (hours if possible). Use breaker bar/impact only after oiling.

5) Remove U‑bolts
- Loosen nuts on U‑bolts fully. Remove nuts and U‑bolts. Remove saddle/plate. The spring is now free from the axle perch (but still attached to hanger/shackle). If U‑bolts are severely rusted, cutting may be necessary—be careful.

6) Detach spring from hangers/shackle
- Remove rear shackle bolts or pins (may need hammer/pry). Unbolt or unpin front eye from hanger (many Hiace have a front eye bolt that’s removable; some have sleeve bushings). Keep track of shims or washers.
- If the center bolt is binding to the axle pad or corrosion holds leaves together, tap the pack to free it. In some cases the center bolt may be stuck and require penetrating oil or heating.

7) Lower axle enough to remove spring
- Carefully lower the jack so the axle moves down and the spring can be removed. Control the drop—do not let the axle hit the ground.
- Slide the old spring out. Support it as it comes free; leaf edges can be sharp.

8) Inspect related components
- Check spring perch, axle pad, hanger and shackle for wear or damage. Replace or repair if excessively worn. Check brake lines, shock mounts, and parking brake cables for proper clearance.

9) Fit bushings and prepare new spring
- Install new bushings in spring eyes (press in or use grease if specified). Some bushings must be greased; others are dry-fit—follow bushing instructions or manual.
- Ensure the center bolt is correctly fitted to the pack if needed.

10) Install new spring
- Position the new spring under the axle perch, align center with axle perch hole/pad and with the hanger/shackle.
- Bolt the front eye into the hanger loosely, and attach the shackle at the rear loosely so the spring can move into place.
- Raise the axle slightly with the jack ensuring the spring seats correctly on the axle perch and the center pin aligns. Do not fully tighten anything while unloaded.

11) Fit new U‑bolts and saddle plate
- Use new U‑bolts and plate to clamp axle to spring. Thread the nuts by hand at first, then snug them down progressively in stages to ensure even seating.
- Follow the manufacturer’s recommended tightening sequence—tighten evenly and gradually.

12) Torque hardware with vehicle at ride height
- Important: With the vehicle’s weight on the springs (lower vehicle so suspension is loaded, or at least put weight on the axle), torque U‑bolts and shackle/eye bolts to the factory specified torque. If you cannot find exact spec, consult a Haynes/Factory manual or dealership. As a guideline, many light vans’ rear U‑bolts are tightened to roughly 80–200 Nm depending on bolt size—this is only a ballpark; use factory spec.
- Torque the shackle and eye bolts to spec. Replace any cotter pins or locking hardware.

13) Refit shocks/wheels and lower vehicle
- Reinstall shock absorber lower bolts and any removed components. Refit wheels, torque wheel nuts to spec. Lower vehicle carefully.

14) Re‑torque after settling
- After driving 50–200 km, recheck & re‑torque U‑bolts and other hardware—new springs settle and may require retightening.

Test and follow‑up
- Test drive slowly: listen for clunks, check ride height, steering behavior, and any rubbing.
- Re‑check torque on U‑bolts and shackles after initial miles.
- If the vehicle leans, sags or shows strange handling, re‑inspect alignment of springs and packs.

Common problems & how to avoid them
- Seized bolts: penetrating oil, heat, and careful use of an impact wrench help. Avoid cutting until you know where brake/fuel lines are. Replace any cut bolts with new hardware.
- Mixing new and old springs: Don’t pair a new spring with an old significantly sagged spring on the same axle—uneven arch causes handling problems. Replace springs in matched pairs (both sides).
- Wrong spring arc or length: Using the wrong spring pack causes ride height change and can overstress other components. Confirm part numbers.
- Reusing U‑bolts/hardware: Avoid reusing U‑bolts or heavily corroded nuts—they can fail. New hardware is cheap insurance.
- Improper torque: Under‑torqued U‑bolts can allow axle shift; over‑torqued can stretch bolts. Torque to spec with suspension loaded.
- Pack misalignment: If leaves shift sideways or the center bolt is not seated, the pack can move and cause wear or axle shift. Ensure center pin is aligned with axle perch hole and saddle.
- Corroded perches/hangers: If perches are badly eroded, the spring won’t seat correctly—repair before installing new springs.
- Incorrect bushings/shackle installation: Worn or wrong bushings lead to clunks and abnormal motion. Use correct parts.

Maintenance tips
- Regularly inspect for cracks, broken leaves, worn bushings, loose U‑bolts.
- After heavy load or off‑road use, recheck torque.
- If fitting heavy‑duty or load‑carrying springs, also check driveshaft angles and brakes.

Final notes & cautions
- Exact bolt sizes and torque values vary by Hiace year/model—consult the factory service manual or a reputable repair manual for exact figures.
- If you’re not confident removing badly rusted bolts, or if suspension hangers are severely corroded, get professional help—axle drops are hazardous.
- Replace springs in matched pairs and always use new U‑bolts and pins.

That’s the complete overview and practical procedure. Follow safety steps strictly, replace worn mounting hardware, torque everything to spec with the vehicle loaded, and recheck after a short drive.
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