Note: Hiace power steering systems vary by year/model (hydraulic PS with belt-driven pump is most common; later models may have electric power steering — EPS). Below are practical, actionable procedures for the common hydraulic system repairs (pump, hoses, rack) plus EPS troubleshooting notes. Always consult the specific vehicle’s factory service manual for torque specs and model-specific diagrams.

Safety first
- Work on a flat surface. Chock rear wheels. Set parking brake.
- Wear safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and protective clothing.
- Allow engine to cool. Disconnect the negative battery terminal when doing electrical/EPS work.
- Support vehicle securely with jack stands — never rely on a jack alone.
- Catch and dispose of power steering fluid per local regulations; avoid skin and paint contact.
- Use line/flare-nut wrenches for hydraulic fittings to avoid rounding. Use torque wrench for final tightening.

Tools and materials (typical)
- Metric socket set (6–24 mm), ratchet, extensions, breaker bar
- Torque wrench (range to 100+ Nm)
- Combination/open-end wrenches (incl. 12–19 mm)
- Flare-nut / line wrenches (10–19 mm sizes)
- Screwdrivers, pliers, needle-nose pliers
- Ball-joint / tie-rod puller or pickle fork
- Pulley puller and installer (power steering pump pulley tool)
- Serpentine/drive belt tool or long breaker bar
- Fluid catch pan, funnels, rags
- Hand-held vacuum/transfer pump for fluid removal
- Pressure test gauge kit (PS pressure gauge with adapters) for pump diagnosis
- Hydraulic hose clamp pliers or hose pinch-off tool
- Jack and jack stands or an engine support bar (for rack removal that requires subframe support)
- Hammer, pry bar
- Replacement parts: power steering pump (or rebuild kit), power steering hoses (high/low pressure), O-rings/seals, steering rack assembly or seals, new serpentine belt if worn, power steering fluid (Toyota specification or compatible ATF/P/S fluid per manual)
- Optional: shop manual or repair data printout, scan tool (for EPS faults and steering angle sensor calibration)

Diagnosis overview (do before replacing parts)
1. Visual check: look for leaks at pump, hoses, hose connections, rack bellows, steering box/rack seals.
2. Fluid level/color: low fluid or milky/dirty fluid indicates contamination or air ingress; metal particles indicate internal pump/rack wear.
3. Listen: whining when turning at idle can indicate failing pump or low fluid.
4. Road test: wandering, hard steering, or clunking can indicate rack failure or tie-rod/steering linkage wear.
5. Pressure test: connect PS pressure gauge to high-pressure line at the fitting, run engine and compare to spec — low pressure indicates pump wear; very high pressure with binding could indicate blockage or valve issue.

Hydraulic power steering pump replacement — step-by-step
(Use exact order in the factory manual if different.)
1. Prep: Park, chock wheels, disconnect negative battery if required for access.
2. Drain/contain fluid: Place pan under pump/hoses. Use transfer pump or loosen low-pressure return hose at reservoir to drain fluid into pan. Pinch off hoses or cap fittings to avoid spills.
3. Release belt tension: Use belt tool or breaker bar on tensioner; remove serpentine belt from pump pulley.
4. Label hoses: Mark high-pressure and return hose locations. Use flare-nut wrench to loosen fittings; catch fluid.
5. Remove pump drive pulley: Use pulley puller to remove the pump pulley without damaging shaft. The puller threads into the pulley and pulls it off squarely.
6. Disconnect pump mounting bolts and electrical connectors (if applicable). Remove pump from bracket.
7. Compare old/new: Transfer any brackets or spacers. Replace pump O-rings and crush washers on hose fittings as needed.
8. Install new pump: Bolt to bracket loosely, reinstall pulley using installer tool to press on evenly. Torque mounting bolts to spec (factory spec — consult manual).
9. Reconnect hoses using new O-rings/washers; torque line fittings to spec (hand-tight + specified angle or torque; consult manual).
10. Reinstall belt: Re-tension and check belt routing.
11. Refill system: Fill reservoir with specified fluid to proper level.
12. Bleed air: With wheels off ground and engine off, turn steering wheel gently from lock to lock several times. Start engine and run at idle, turn wheel lock-to-lock multiple times, top up fluid as needed. Repeat until no foaming and steering is smooth.
13. Check for leaks, road test, and re-torque fittings after first road drive.

How the tools are used (key notes)
- Flare-nut/line wrench: grips more surface area on hydraulic fittings to prevent rounding. Always use the correct size.
- Pulley puller/installer: puller bolts into the center of the pulley and threads pull the pulley off the pump shaft; installer presses the new pulley on evenly using the pump shaft as a centering guide.
- Pressure gauge: connects to the high-pressure test port to read pump output. Use correct adapter; run engine and record pressure at idle and at specified RPMs per manual.
- Vacuum/transfer pump: safely removes fluid from reservoir to reduce spills while removing hoses.

Hose replacement (high- and low-pressure)
1. Relieve system pressure and drain fluid as above.
2. Use line wrenches to loosen hose fittings; cap lines to reduce spill and contamination.
3. Replace hoses with OE hoses or high-quality replacements. Replace O-rings and crush washers.
4. Reinstall and torque fittings. Refill and bleed system as above.
Pitfalls: reusing old washers/O-rings leads to leaks; routing mistakes causing chafing; mixing incompatible fluids.

Steering rack replacement (general rack-and-pinion swap)
This is more involved; be prepared with help, engine support, wheel alignment afterward.
1. Secure vehicle, lift and support on stands. Remove front wheels.
2. Disconnect tie-rod ends from steering knuckles with tie-rod puller. Mark toe alignment of old rack if possible to simplify alignment.
3. Disconnect intermediate steering shaft at coupling; observe spline position and note alignment marks for reinstallation.
4. Disconnect PS lines at rack (cap lines immediately). Drain fluid.
5. Support the rack. Depending on model, remove subframe or unbolt rack mounting bolts. Some models require engine support or lowering subframe slightly.
6. Remove rack assembly and replace with new/refurbished unit. Replace mounting bushings if worn.
7. Reconnect lines with new seals; torque to spec.
8. Reconnect steering shaft aligning splines to original marks; torque coupling bolt.
9. Reattach tie-rod ends, torque to spec.
10. Refill and bleed the system thoroughly.
11. Perform full wheel alignment (toe + camber if affected). Road test gently and re-check for leaks and steering function.

EPS (Electric Power Steering) troubleshooting/repair notes
- Symptoms: intermittent assist loss, warning light, DTCs stored.
- Safety: disconnect battery before removing EPS components. Some systems require SRS/airbag precautions when removing steering column parts.
- Diagnostics: use a Toyota Techstream or compatible scan tool to read DTCs and live data. Some EPS repairs require ECU replacement, motor replacement, or recalibration.
- Recalibration: after replacing EPS or steering angle sensor, perform zero-point calibration/initialization with scan tool.
- Replacement: EPS motor/Rack assembly usually bolts in; disconnect connector, remove rack or column motor as needed. Follow torque and bleeding-free steps if hydraulic hybrid systems present.
- Pitfalls: failing to perform ECU/angle sensor calibration will cause poor handling or fault codes; never run engine with steering mechanically disconnected on systems that require engine running for calibration.

Bleeding procedure (recommended)
- Method A — Turn-wheel method: With reservoir full, start engine and turn wheel slowly lock-to-lock 10–15 times, topping off fluid. Observe for foaming. Continue until no bubbles and steering is smooth.
- Method B — Vacuum bleed: Use a vacuum bleeder on the reservoir while an assistant turns the wheel lock-to-lock. This tends to be faster and cleaner.
- After bleeding: idle and operate steering through full travel, re-check fluid level and leaks. Road test and re-check after a short drive.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them
- Mixing fluids: Use the recommended fluid. Mixing different types can cause poor performance and seal damage.
- Not replacing seals/O-rings: Reusing old washers leads to leaks — replace them.
- Air in system: Improper bleeding leads to noise and poor assist — bleed thoroughly.
- Over-torquing fittings: Stripped threads or crushed fittings cause leaks — use a torque wrench and manual specs.
- Not supporting vehicle/engine properly: Risk of injury or damage — use jack stands or engine support bar.
- Rounding fittings: Use correct-size line wrenches.
- Reinstalling steering shaft misaligned: Always match alignment marks; misalignment causes binding and sensor errors.
- Skipping wheel alignment after rack/tie rod work: Causes poor steering and premature tire wear.

Replacement parts commonly required
- Power steering pump (or repair kit)
- High-pressure hose and low-pressure return hose
- O-rings/crush washers for hose fittings
- Steering rack or rack rebuild kit (seals/bushings)
- Serpentine belt (if worn)
- Power steering fluid (specified type)
- Steering coupler or intermediate shaft U-joint (if worn)
- EPS motor/ECU or steering angle sensor (for electric systems)

Final checks
- Verify no leaks at fittings, pump, and rack.
- Confirm fluid level after several cycles of lock-to-lock and a test drive.
- Ensure steering wheel is centered and perform professional 4-wheel alignment after rack or tie-rod work.
- Clear any diagnostic trouble codes and perform necessary calibrations (EPS/steering angle sensor).

If you need model-year-specific torque values, pressure specs, or a factory bleeding/calibration sequence, refer to the Toyota Hiace factory service manual or provide the model year and exact engine/steering type for precise specs.
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