Toyota 1KZ-TE engine factory workshop and repair manual download

Tools & materials (both jobs)
- Safety: nitrile gloves, safety glasses, long-sleeve work clothes, particulate respirator (organic vapor cartridge if poor ventilation), hearing protection.
- Hand tools: socket set, screwdrivers, panel trim tools, plastic pry bars, adjustable pliers.
- Windshield-specific: large suction cup lifters (2), windshield removal wire kit (stainless wire with handles) and/or cold-knife set, reciprocating saw or power cutter with urethane blade (optional), windshield setting blocks (rubber), razor blades, masking tape.
- Adhesives/consumables: OEM-grade polyurethane windshield urethane (1-component, non-sag), glass primer and pinch-weld/metal primer (silane and primer for bare metal), alcohol cleaner or glass prep, lint-free towels.
- Replacement parts: new windshield (OEM or quality aftermarket), new windshield molding/seal and clips (recommended), new cowl clips/wiper arm nuts if worn.
- Chip-repair kit (if doing chip repair): bridge/injector, repair resin, UV curing lamp, polishing film, micro drill (for some chips).

Safety & preparation (read before starting)
- Work on level ground in a sheltered, dust-free environment. Ideal temp per urethane manufacturer: 10–30°C (50–86°F).
- Disconnect battery if vehicle has driver/passenger airbags or if any electronic sensors (camera/rain sensor) are connected to windshield — reduces risk of accidental sensor activation.
- Protect interior with drop cloths and tape edges of dashboard. Protect paint and fascia with masking tape where tools will contact.
- If ADAS (camera/rain sensor) is present, note that recalibration may be required after replacement. Arrange calibration if needed.

Part A — Chip repair (small impact)
Use when chip/stone damage is localized (typical guideline: bulls-eye or star chips < 25 mm (1") and cracks < ~150 mm (6") depending on type). Edge cracks, long cracks, or multiple intersecting cracks require replacement.

Steps:
1. Assess damage: type, depth, location. If damage is in the driver’s line of sight replacement is often recommended (optical distortion after resin).
2. Clean area: remove loose glass pieces by blowing gently with compressed air or by picking with a pin. Wipe surrounding glass with alcohol-lint free cloth.
3. Mount bridge: center the repair bridge over the chip, attach suction feet, ensure vacuum on the bridge if kit has vacuum pump. Bridge aligns injector over damage.
4. Create vacuum: many kits use a vacuum to draw air out of the chip. Follow kit instructions: apply vacuum for 30–60 seconds to remove trapped air and moisture.
5. Inject resin: open resin chamber and slowly inject resin into the damage while maintaining vacuum or pressure cycles. Work from vacuum to pressure to push resin into fissures.
6. Curing: once resin fills the void, use UV lamp to cure. Typical cure times 2–5 minutes depending on resin and lamp. Check manufacturer spec.
7. Remove cured resin & polish: remove bridge, scrape excess resin flush with a sharp razor held at very shallow angle, then polish with supplied films/polish to restore clarity.
8. Final check: examine for residual air or discoloration. If bridging wasn’t complete, repeat injection or advise replacement.

Common chip pitfalls:
- Not removing moisture/air first → cloudy result.
- Trying to repair large/edge/stepped cracks → weak repair, worse damage.
- Poor curing (using insufficient UV) → soft resin, poor adhesion.

Part B — Full windshield removal & replacement (step-by-step)
Use when chip repair not possible or for cracked/edge-damaged windscreens.

1. Gather parts & prep
- Order correct windshield for your Toyota model (match OEM curvature & sensor mounts).
- New urethane, primers, new molding and clips.
- Park car in a temperature-controlled area. Disconnect battery (safety).

2. Remove external components
- Remove windshield wipers: mark position on blade & arm relative to splines for correct reinstallation; remove nut (usually 13–14 mm) and pull arm with puller if seized.
- Remove cowl/plastic covers: remove screws/clips, carefully pry off upper cowl and weather strip. Remove rear view mirror, rain sensor, antenna or any clips bolted to glass. Unplug electrical connectors (camera/rain sensor) and remove sensor brackets if attached.

3. Protect surrounding areas
- Apply wide masking tape around pinch weld and hood to protect paint. Place interior towels over dash area.

4. Cut urethane bead & remove glass
- Choose method: cold knife/wire is common.
- Cold-knife: slide knife between glass and pinch weld; use steady even strokes along perimeter. Keep the blade angle low (~20–30°) to avoid gouging paint. Use a second operator inside to pull glass as knife progresses.
- Wire: feed the stainless wire behind the glass edge and work back and forth with cutting handles; work the wire slowly to cut through urethane evenly.
- Power cutter: reciprocating saw with windshield blade may be used but is aggressive—risk to paint. Use only experienced operator.
- Lift out glass: using two suction cups, lift glass straight up once the urethane is cut. Angle glass outward and remove from vehicle.

Tool details: suction cups—clean glass attach points, push hard to create full contact; ensure both operators coordinate lift. Wire tool—feed wire between glass/pinch weld, hold handles and use a sawing action while walking around windshield; wear cut-resistant gloves.

5. Clean pinch weld / prepare surface
- Remove old urethane: scrape off old urethane until you reach a smooth surface. Ideally remove to bare metal/paint near the adhesive plane; small residual thin layer may be acceptable only if manufacturer allows — best practice is clean bare metal/paint without gouging.
- Clean with primer prep cleaner (alcohol) and allow to dry. Mask area outside the pinch weld to protect paint.

Pitfall: leaving old urethane chunks or contaminants causes poor adhesion/leaks.

6. Apply primer(s)
- Apply metal (pinchweld) primer to vehicle flange where required by urethane manufacturer — thin even coat. Apply glass primer to new windshield cut edge or bracket areas as required.
- Allow flash time per primer instructions (usually 5–10 minutes). Do not contaminate primed surfaces.

7. Apply urethane bead
- Load urethane cartridge into a heavy-duty caulk gun; cut nozzle to recommended diameter (typically producing a 6–8 mm bead; check product spec).
- Start at bottom center and apply continuous bead around the pinch weld — keep gun moving at steady speed to avoid gaps or excess.
- Typical bead: triangular cross-section for good contact. Tool nozzle to maintain even bead. Maintain clean nozzle and avoid stopping mid-run; if stopping, restart at a point ensuring continuous bead.

How to use caulking gun: squeeze trigger steadily; hold nozzle at ~45° to create triangular bead. Keep consistent speed. Cut nozzle opening to match recommended bead size.

Pitfall: discontinuous bead or under/overfilled bead will cause leaks or prevent proper seating.

8. Set new windshield
- Using suction cups, position windshield above opening. Align to upper center first—use masking tape guide marks from old glass or windshield shipping blocks.
- Lower straight down onto urethane bead — do NOT slide the glass into place (sliding smears urethane and can trap air). Press firmly and evenly along perimeter to seat glass into the bead.
- Install setting blocks into correct position if required (place under glass to prevent pressure on edge and set correct height).
- Reinstall moldings/clips as required. Some installations require installing lower molding before setting — follow windshield and molding instructions.

9. Secure & cure
- Apply painter’s tape across glass to hold it while urethane skins. Check alignment visually and adjust quickly within a few minutes.
- Respect adhesive cure times:
- Tack/skin time: 10–30 minutes (surface becomes non-sticky).
- Minimum drive-away time: typically 1–2 hours (consult urethane product label; cold temps increase time).
- Full cure: 24 hours to reach full strength.
- Do not drive vehicle until minimum drive-away time has passed. Avoid car washes for 24–48 hours to prevent high-pressure water forcing a leak.

10. Reinstall parts & final checks
- Reinstall cowl, wipers (align to marks), mirror, sensors. Torque wiper nuts to factory spec.
- Reconnect battery and any sensor wiring. If vehicle has ADAS (camera/rain sensor), arrange calibration per manufacturer instructions — many Toyotas require dealer or calibrated shop.
- Leak test after 24 hours: gently spray water over windshield perimeter and inspect interior for leaks.

Common replacement pitfalls
- Not priming: causes adhesive failure.
- Cutting into paint or metal: causes rust and poor seal.
- Poor bead (gaps, too thin): leaks and weak bond.
- Misalignment causing stress on glass → pop/driving vibrations cause cracks later.
- Not observing cure time → glass can blow out during high wind/acceleration.
- Forgetting ADAS recalibration — leads to wrong sensor behavior; check rain-sensing wipers, lane systems, camera.

When to replace parts
- Replace windshield always if cracked beyond repair limits.
- Replace windshield molding/seal if brittle, torn, or misshapen. Replace clips if broken — they are cheap and prevent future rattle/leaks.
- Replace wiper arm nuts/washers if corroded.

Final notes
- Use OEM-quality urethane and primers. Cheap adhesives can fail.
- If unsure about ADAS or the proper primers/adhesives for your Toyota, get a professional shop to handle calibration and adhesive selection.
- If you see paint damage or rust at the pinch weld, repair that before installing new glass.

End.
rteeqp73

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Toyota 1KZ-TE, Engine Specifications,Information, Maintenance, Part Numbers, Turbo Diesel Prado Toyota 1KZ-TE, Engine Specifications,General Information, Maintenance Data, Part Numbers Engine Overhaul Gas-kit Cylinder ...

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