Login to enhance your online experience. Login or Create an Account
Logo
Shopping Cart

Shopping Cart 0 Items (Empty)

Toyota Hilux 2005-2013 factory workshop and repair manual download

Overview — what you’re doing and why
- Goal: replace the strut top mount (sometimes called top mount, strut bearing, or bearing plate) on a Toyota Hilux front strut assembly.
- Why: the top mount isolates road vibration, supports the top of the coil spring/strut, and contains a bearing that lets the strut rotate when you steer. When it fails you’ll get clunks, knocking, creaks in steering, steering notchy or wandering, and/or uneven tire wear. If the rubber fails the spring/strut can move and create noise or loss of control.
- Big-picture theory (simple): a MacPherson strut is like a shock absorber built into the front of the car that both holds the wheel and damps bumps. The coil spring carries the vehicle weight; the shock (damper) controls spring motion. The top mount is the connection between that assembly and the body — think of it as the pillow-and-rotating-hinge that supports the top of a lamp post and lets it tilt when you turn the lamp head. The bearing inside the mount lets the strut rotate smoothly when steering; the rubber in the mount cushions road shocks.

Safety first (don’t skip these)
- Work on a flat surface, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels.
- Use a hydraulic jack and high‑quality jack stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
- You will compress a coil spring. Use a proper spring compressor designed for automotive coil springs. Never attempt to remove the top nut with the spring uncompressed — that can kill or maim.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- If you’re unsure at any step, stop and get help from a professional.

Parts and components — what each thing is and does
- Strut assembly: main vertical unit consisting of a damper (shock) and spring (coil). The damper sits inside; the spring wraps around it.
- Coil spring: carries vehicle weight between lower suspension (knuckle/control arm) and top mount.
- Strut shaft/piston rod: center rod at top of the damper; the top nut tightens here and holds the top mount in place.
- Dust boot: rubber/foam cover over the strut shaft to keep grit out of the shaft and damper.
- Bump stop (jounce bumper): small rubber/foam piece that prevents metal-on-metal contact at full compression.
- Top mount / strut mount: the rubber/isolation piece that bolts to the car’s strut tower; contains the bearing in MacPherson struts.
- Bearing (inside mount): allows rotation; often a ball-bearing or a polymer sleeve.
- Lower mount (strut-to-knuckle): where the strut bolts to the steering knuckle.
- Steering knuckle: connects wheel hub to suspension and steering tie rod.
- Sway bar end link: connects anti-roll bar to the strut or control arm; often has a fastener at the strut.
- Brake hose/ABS sensor bracket: lines that attach to strut assembly and must be unbolted or released.

Tools you’ll need
- Jack and jack stands, wheel chocks
- Wheel wrench / 19–21 mm socket (wheel nuts)
- Ratchet and metric socket set (10–24 mm typical)
- Combination wrenches
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench (essential for reassembly)
- Spring compressor (two‑leg or clamp‑type for strut springs)
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Hammer, punch
- Large hex or Allen key to hold strut shaft or special strut shaft holding tool (some models)
- Pry bar
- Philips/flat screwdrivers, pliers
- Marker/paint or chalk to mark alignment cam bolts
- New parts: strut mount (and bearing if sold separately), dust boot, bump stop (recommended), possibly new nuts/bolts
- Service manual for torque specs and model-specific notes (highly recommended)

Before you start
- Inspect: confirm symptoms (noise when turning, clunk over bumps, steering resistance).
- Get parts: compare new mount to old before installing to ensure correct part.
- Check service manual for torque numbers and specific sequences for your Hilux year/model.

Step-by-step procedure (typical MacPherson front strut Hilux)
1) Preparation
- Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel nuts slightly with car on the ground.
- Raise front with jack, place on jack stands under subframe or chassis jacking points. Remove wheel.

2) Disconnect everything attached to the strut
- Remove sway bar end-link from the strut (might be nut at top or bottom). Keep track of hardware.
- Undo brake hose/ABS sensor clips/brackets from the strut so lines are free (don’t stretch or kink hoses).
- If tie-rod/ball joint must be separated on your model, be careful: use a pitman or pickle fork only if necessary — better to unbolt lower strut-to-knuckle bolts first and let the knuckle swing.

3) Remove lower strut fasteners
- Apply penetrating oil to lower nuts/bolts if rusty.
- Remove bolts that connect strut to steering knuckle and any mounting bolts at the lower part. Support the knuckle with a jack or strap so it doesn’t hang on the brake lines.
- Once lower bolts are out, the strut will be free at bottom.

4) Remove top mount nuts
- Open the hood and find the strut tower. There will be 2 or 3 top nuts holding the strut mount to the strut tower. Remove those nuts while supporting the strut from below (it will drop once nuts are removed).
- Carefully pull the entire strut assembly straight down out of the wheel well.

5) Compress the spring
- Secure the strut in a bench vise (gently) or clamp the strut body so it won’t move.
- Attach spring compressors to opposite sides of the coil spring and compress evenly in small increments, alternating sides until spring tension is released from the top mount. Compress only enough to remove the center nut.
- Safety: stand to side while compressing and keep hands out of spring path.

6) Disassemble the strut
- Remove the center nut on the strut shaft that holds the mount. Some shafts have a hex on the top or require a hex key in the shaft to hold it from spinning.
- Remove the top mount, bearing, dust seat, bump stop, and dust boot. Keep parts in order; take pictures or lay parts out in sequence.
- Inspect spring for cracks, corrosion; inspect strut body for oil leaks (if leaking, replace strut instead).

7) Fit the new mount (and bearing)
- If the new mount is a whole assembly replace dust boot and bump stop at the same time.
- Clean the strut shaft; apply a small film of light oil if required by part instructions (but do not use grease on the bearing unless specified).
- Assemble in reverse order: dust boot, bump stop, spring, spring seat, new top mount/bearing.
- Tighten the center nut to temporarily hold assembly together while spring compressors still applied — follow the new part instructions for torque when compressed; then release compressors slowly to seat spring on mount.

8) Reinstall the strut
- With spring safely seated and compressors released, position the strut back into the strut tower. Install top nuts by hand to keep it located, but do not fully torque until lower bolts are tightened (some manufacturers recommend torquing top first; follow factory manual).
- Reattach the strut to knuckle: insert lower bolts and tighten to specified torque. Reattach sway bar link and brake/ABS brackets. Reinstall wheel.

9) Torque sequence and safety checks
- Lower vehicle onto ground (some torque specs must be done with suspension loaded).
- Torque all fasteners to manufacturer specs. If you don’t have the manual, find exact numbers online for your Hilux year — bolt torques are important.
- Double-check hose routing and brakeline clearance when turning the steering lock-to-lock.

10) Final steps
- Test drive carefully at low speed, listen for noises.
- Wheel alignment required after strut work — get a professional alignment. Driving without alignment can cause poor handling and rapid tire wear.
- Re-torque all fasteners after 100–200 miles (or as recommended) and inspect for any movement/leaks.

What can go wrong (and how to avoid it)
- Improper spring compressor use: compressors that slip can allow a spring to violently decompress. Use correct compressors, inspect them, compress evenly, and stand away.
- Not supporting knuckle/axle: dropping the knuckle can break brake lines or CV joints. Support knuckle before removing strut bottom bolts.
- Mixing up parts/order: keep parts in order or photograph assembly before disassembly. Bearings have orientation.
- Using wrong torque: over/under-torquing fasteners can lead to loosening or broken studs. Use a torque wrench and correct specs.
- Not replacing dust boot/bump stop: leads to premature damper failure.
- Ignoring worn strut: if damper is leaking or worn, replacing only the mount is a temporary fix; replace the whole strut assembly.
- Forgetting alignment: steering pull, poor handling, and tire wear.

Symptoms that indicate mount failure
- Loud clunking on bumps or when steering.
- Creaking/knocking when turning the wheel.
- Steering feels notchy or tight near center.
- Tire wear on inner/outer edges.
- Visible crack or separation of rubber in mount.

Replacement strategy — what to replace
- Best practice: replace mount, bearing, dust boot, and bump stop at the same time.
- If strut shows oil leakage or poor damping, replace the whole strut or strut cartridge.
- If both sides have similar miles/age, replace both front mounts to maintain even feel.

Time, difficulty, and cost
- Difficulty: moderate. If you’ve never used a spring compressor or worked under a car, get supervision.
- Time: 1–3 hours per side for a competent beginner; quicker with experience.
- Cost: parts for both sides (mounts, boots, bump stops) ~–200 depending on brand; labor if professional ~0–400. Full strut assembly replacement costs more.

Helpful analogies
- Strut = shock + spring = the suspension’s shock absorber and support column (like a lamp post that both holds lamp and absorbs bumps).
- Top mount = pillow + swivel: cushions the load and provides a swivel bearing so the “lamp head” can be turned easily.
- Spring compressor = giant clamp that takes the spring’s weight off the mount so you can safely remove the top nut.

Final checklist before driving off
- All nuts/bolts torqued to spec.
- Brake lines and ABS sensor secure and not kinked.
- No rubbing of hose or wires on rotating parts.
- Wheel lug nuts torqued in a star pattern.
- Test drive slowly to verify behavior.
- Book wheel alignment.

Closing notes (practical tips)
- If the strut is more than ~80–100k km and noisy, consider replacing the entire strut assembly instead of only the mount.
- Keep used/new parts clean; avoid contaminating bearings with grease unless the part manufacturer says to.
- If rusty bolts won’t break free, heat with a torch carefully or cut and replace the bolt — do not damage studs.

You now have the full overview, the what/why/how, the parts, safety steps, and the step-by-step procedure. Follow the safety cautions closely — especially when using a spring compressor — and consult a repair manual for your exact Hilux year/model for torque figures and any special service notes.
rteeqp73

You Might Also Like...

Kryptronic Internet Software Solutions