Summary (one line): The transmission pump in a 42RLE is the hydraulics heart — it converts input shaft rotation into line pressure. Replacing the pump restores lost pressure caused by worn rotors/seals/bores; the procedure below shows the logical, in-order dismantling, replacement, inspection and reassembly and explains why each action fixes the fault.

Preparations (parts, safety, theory)
- Parts: correct 42RLE pump kit (inner/outer rotors/vanes or gerotor set as applicable), front pump housing/seal if worn, pump bushing(s) if needed, torque converter input seal, filter, pan gasket, ATF by spec.
- Tools: floor jack, stands, transmission jack, basic hand tools, torque wrench, seal driver, transmission alignment tools.
- Safety: support vehicle on stands, drain fluid into approved container, wear eye protection, work on cool transmission.
- Theory: the pump (rotors/gerotor inside front cover) creates pressure by trapping fluid and reducing volume as it rotates; pressure flows to valves/servo/controls to actuate clutches/bands. Wear increases internal clearances or damages seals so pressure falls and clutches slip, shifts are harsh, or no drive. Replacing worn pump components restores correct clearances and sealing surfaces, so pump produces designed pressure and restores hydraulic actuation.

Step-by-step (in order) with theory for each step

1) Confirm symptoms and preliminary checks
- Action: verify low line pressure symptoms (slips, no forward, delayed/harsh shifts). Check ATF level/color, scan for transmission codes, measure line pressure if possible.
- Theory: ensures problem is hydraulic (pump/pressure) not electrical or mechanical; low fluid level or clogged filter can mimic pump failure.

2) Drain ATF and remove driveline components
- Action: drain fluid, remove negative battery cable, remove driveshaft(s), exhaust or crossmembers blocking access, and any wiring/lines attached to transmission.
- Theory: draining prevents spills; removing obstructions allows transmission removal. Removing fluid lets inspection of drained fluid for metal or burnt smell indicating internal wear.

3) Remove torque converter/torque converter-to-flexplate separation
- Action: support engine (if required) and transmission, remove torque converter cover plate bolts to expose torque converter, remove flexplate access cover and unbolt torque converter from flexplate while transmission still supported.
- Theory: pump is driven by input shaft and torque converter must be separated to remove transmission and access pump/front cover. Inspect torque converter for metal or contamination; a damaged converter can damage the pump or bushing.

4) Remove transmission from vehicle
- Action: support transmission with a tranny jack, unbolt bellhousing-to-engine bolts, lower and remove transmission from vehicle.
- Theory: full access to front pump requires removing the transmission; internal pump is inside the front section of the case and not serviceable externally.

5) Separate torque converter and front cover
- Action: remove pump/front cover bolts, separate front pump cover from bellhousing/case. You may need to remove the torque converter seal retainer and seal.
- Theory: opening the front cover exposes the pump assembly (rotors/gerotor) and front seal; worn rotors or damaged front cover are replaced here.

6) Inspect components and measure wear
- Action: inspect inner/outer rotors, pump housing bore, thrust surfaces, front pump housing, bushings, and mating surfaces for scoring, pitting, excessive clearances. Replace bushings or pump housing if out of spec.
- Theory: pump output depends on tight clearances and smooth surfaces. Replacing only rotors while leaving a scored bore or bad bushing will allow leakage and continued low pressure; inspect and replace anything beyond spec.

7) Remove and replace pump rotors and seals
- Action: remove inner and outer rotors (note orientation), replace with new rotors/vanes from the pump kit. Install new front pump seal and any O-rings or paper seals. Replace/or renew front pump housing if necessary. Install any new bushings/seals per kit instructions.
- Theory: new rotors restore volumetric efficiency by re-establishing the minimal internal clearances needed to build pressure. Replacing the input/torque converter seal prevents external leakage and loss of torque transfer to the pump. New bushings return concentricity and reduce internal leakage.

8) Reassemble pump/front cover with correct clearances and torque
- Action: assemble front pump to case, install new bolts and torque to factory spec, ensure correct endplay if required (measure and shim per manual).
- Theory: correct torque and endplay keep rotors centered and prevent contact or excessive leakage. Incorrect assembly can cause rapid re-failure or noise.

9) Re-install torque converter and transmission to engine
- Action: reinstall torque converter (verify seating on pump/input shaft fully), align transmission to engine, torque bellhousing bolts to spec, reattach converter-to-flexplate bolts and any removed crossmembers, lines, wiring, driveshafts, exhaust.
- Theory: full seating of converter onto input shaft ensures pump drive engagement and proper clearances for seal and pump operation. Proper bolt torques prevent leaks and maintain alignment.

10) Replace filter and pan gasket; refill with correct fluid
- Action: install new transmission filter, pan gasket, torque pan bolts to spec, refill with correct ATF to specified level at operating temperature.
- Theory: filter replacement prevents particle re-circulation that could score new rotors. Correct fluid and level are essential for pressure generation and cooling.

11) Bleed, run-up, verify pressures and road test
- Action: with vehicle safely supported (wheels chocked, parking brake off), start engine, cycle through gears, check for leaks, check line pressure and apply pressure tests under specified conditions (consult manual), perform road test through ranges and re-check fluid level at operating temp.
- Theory: pressure testing verifies the pump produces specified line pressure and the hydraulic circuits actuate correctly. Road test confirms the symptom is resolved under load.

12) Post-repair inspection and cleanup
- Action: inspect for leaks, monitor fluid temperature and color over next days, re-tighten as required.
- Theory: catching early signs of a problem (leaks, high temps) prevents repeat failures.

How the repair fixes the fault (concise)
- Worn rotors or scored pump housing increase internal leakage so the pump cannot develop required line pressure. Replacing rotors and any damaged pump housing/bushings restores correct fluid displacement per revolution, reducing internal leakage and restoring pump volumetric efficiency.
- New seals stop external leakage and maintain torque converter/pump sealing so the pump is fed and driven correctly.
- Replacing the filter and cleaning fluid removes debris that caused scoring/wear, preventing re-contamination of the new pump.
- Correct reassembly (endplay, torque, seating) restores mechanical geometry so pump operates at design clearances and produces intended pressure curves, restoring clutch and band actuation and eliminating slipping/no-drive/harsh shifts.

Common pitfalls to avoid (brief)
- Replacing only rotors but not a scored bore or worn bushings — pressure will not be restored.
- Not seating torque converter fully — pump drive engagement incomplete, causing low pressure.
- Not using correct ATF or incorrect fill level — will alter pressures and clutch friction.
- Ignoring torque specs or endplay/shims — leads to premature failure.

End — follow factory service manual for torque specs, clearances, and testing values.
rteeqp73

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