Tools & supplies
- Basic metric socket set (8–19 mm), ratchet, extensions
- Combination wrenches (8–15 mm)
- Needle‑nose pliers, slip‑joint pliers
- Flat screwdriver and small pick tool
- Long pry bar or trim tool (for grommet)
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar)
- Hammer and brass drift (if stuck)
- Torque wrench (0–100 ft‑lb range)
- Jack, 2 quality jack stands, wheel chocks
- Work light
- Gloves, safety glasses
- Replacement parts: correct shift/transfer case cable for your TJ year (OEM or aftermarket), new cable mounting bushings/grommet(s), new retaining clips/cotter pins if applicable, optional new console boot
- Rags, grease or anti‑seize

Safety first
- Work on a level surface. Chock rear wheels and set parking brake.
- Support vehicle with jack stands under frame rails — never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear eye protection and gloves. Have a helper if possible (easier to align).
- If you’ll be working under a hot engine/transmission, let it cool.
- Disconnect battery if you’ll be inside the shifter area with exposed wiring or if you might crank the engine during testing.

Overview / notes
- TJ years 1997–2006: most common job is replacing the transfer‑case shift cable (shifter to transfer case) or the transmission shifter cable. Procedure is the same conceptually: remove interior connection at shifter, unbolt/undo cable routing under vehicle, remove old cable, feed and secure new cable, then adjust/verify. I’ll use “cable” to mean the shift cable assembly and show which tools you use at each step.

Step‑by‑step procedure
1) Prep and initial setting
- Put shifter in neutral (or the transfer case in its neutral/mid position if you can). Mark the shifter position with tape if helpful so you can return to it.
- Spray penetrating oil on visible cable mounting bolts, clips and pivot studs under vehicle. Let soak.

2) Remove interior trim to access shifter cable connection
- Remove center console pieces and the shifter boot/trim to expose the cable end and retaining clip.
- Use a flat screwdriver and pick tool to remove the plastic retainer/clip that secures the cable to the shifter lever. Pliers or needle‑nose often remove the retaining clip by squeezing and sliding off.

How tool is used: use the pick to pry the clip out of its groove gently; needle‑nose to pull it free. Keep the clip for reference or replace with a new one.

3) Disconnect cable at the shifter
- With the clip removed, pull the cable end off the shifter spindle. Note how the cable seat/bushing fits on the lever — take pictures if unsure.

4) Unbolt cable brackets and free cable
- Crawl under the vehicle (supported on stands). Trace the cable from the firewall to the transfer case/transmission.
- Using socket/ratchet and appropriate extension, remove bracket bolts that hold the cable to the body. Keep track of any washers/plates.
- Use pliers to remove any spring clips, cotter pins or clevis pins at the transmission/transfer case lever. If a retaining clip is rusted, apply penetrating oil and work it back and forth before removing. Use hammer and brass drift only if necessary; avoid damaging the lever.

How tool is used: socket and ratchet remove bolts; needle‑nose pliers pull cotter pins; long screwdriver/pry bar can help pop the clevis off its pin once pins are removed.

5) Remove cable from firewall grommet
- Pry the rubber grommet out where the cable passes through the floor/firewall. A flat screwdriver or trim tool works — be careful not to tear surrounding metal paint. Note orientation of grommet and any foam seals.

6) Remove old cable assembly
- Pull the cable free from inside and outside the vehicle. Compare new cable to old one to confirm length, bracket locations and end fittings.

7) Install new grommet/bushings and route new cable
- Fit new rubber grommet into floor/firewall hole first. Lubricate grommet lightly with soapy water or grease to ease cable feed.
- Route new cable following exactly the original path—avoid sharp bends, rubbing points and heat sources. Ensure the cable housing seats fully in each bracket grommet/bushing location.
- Install any new mounting bushings in the brackets before bolting.

How tool is used: use your hands to feed cable; ratchet/socket tighten bracket bolts snugly—don’t fully tighten until final alignment.

8) Connect cable to transfer case/transmission lever
- Fit the cable end onto the lever clevis/pin. Insert pin and secure with supplied snap clip or cotter pin. Use pliers to bend/seat the cotter pin or snap ring pliers for retaining rings.
- Torque bracket bolts to snug (see notes below about torque). Do not overtighten rubber‑mounted brackets.

9) Connect cable to shifter inside
- Feed cable through interior hole into cabin and slide the end onto the shifter lever. Reinstall the shifter retainer clip or new clip supplied.
- Reinstall shifter boot and console trim.

10) Adjust cable alignment and secure
- For transfer case cable: put shifter in neutral (or appropriate 4WD selector neutral). With shifter centered and cable installed, tighten the cable clamp/bracket under the vehicle so there is no preload—cable should have a little free play in neutral. The goal is that when you move the interior shifter to each position, the transfer case lever moves exactly to corresponding detents.
- For transmission cable: some cables have an adjuster barrel or clamp. Set shifter to neutral, place transmission in neutral (or follow service manual procedure), and tighten adjuster so shifter and transmission match positions.
- Tighten all bracket bolts to the correct torque (factory manual values if available). Typical small bracket bolts are 10–30 ft‑lb range — consult factory manual for exact torque.

How tool is used: use the torque wrench to tighten bolts to spec; use ratchet for initial snugging.

11) Test operation
- With vehicle still safely on stands, start engine and cycle through gears / 4WD modes. For transfer case: with vehicle running and parking brake on, engage 4WD (shift through positions) and confirm transfer case lever moves and front drive engages/disengages (if necessary check hubs). For transmission cable: shift through gears and ensure smooth selection and accurate gear indication.
- Drive slowly in a safe area and verify proper operation in all positions. Re‑check bracket bolts and retaining clips after a short test drive.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Pinching cable or routing over sharp edges — always follow original routing and use rubber grommets/bushings.
- Reusing old worn grommets — replace them. Old grommets cause sloppy feel and premature wear.
- Not aligning neutral positions before tightening — leads to mis‑shift and inability to engage gears properly. Always match shifter and lever neutral positions before final tightening.
- Forgetting to replace small clips/pins — replace cotter pins and retaining clips; they’re cheap and critical.
- Relying only on the jack — always use jack stands. Many injuries happen from that mistake.
- Overtightening bracket bolts into rubber bushings — tighten snug but not crushing; rubber should isolate vibration.
- Not testing while the vehicle is safe and supported — always verify while you can access bolts again if adjustment needed.

If removal is difficult
- Apply penetrating oil the night before.
- Heat around stuck bolts carefully (torch or heat gun) only if safe — avoid heat near fuel or wiring.
- Use a breaker bar for rusty bolts, and use a nut‑splitter or replace bracket if hardware snaps.

Replacement parts required
- Exact shift cable assembly for your TJ model/year (transfer case vs transmission cable—confirm part number).
- New rubber grommet(s)/bushings for firewall and bracket mounts (often sold with cable).
- New retaining clips/cotter pins if original are corroded (many kits include these).
- Optional: new shifter boot, console trim if damaged.

Final notes
- If you’re unsure of the exact neutral positions or adjustment procedure for your specific TJ year and transfer case (e.g., NV231, NP231), consult the factory service manual for exact alignment procedure and torque specs.
- After installation and road test, re‑inspect all clips and bolts for tightness and ensure no rubbing or unusual noises.

Done.
rteeqp73

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Short summary: the anti‑roll (sway) bar links the left and right sides of the suspension so the vehicle resists body roll in turns. On a TJ it’s a steel torsion bar attached to the frame with bushings/brackets and to each axle with end‑links. Replace it when links or bushings are worn, rubber is rotten, brackets are broken, or bolts are seized. Below is a beginner‑level, step‑by‑step procedure, full component descriptions, theory, common failure modes, safety points and practical tips.

Safety first (read and follow):
- Work on a level surface, chock opposite wheels, set parking brake.
- Use a hydraulic jack and quality jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- If bolts are rusted, penetrating oil and careful heating are options; don’t use excessive force that will break studs inside a hub/frame without a plan to replace them.
- Torque fasteners to factory specifications (consult a factory service manual or a reliable repair database). If you don’t have a spec, snug then re‑check after a short drive, but getting the correct torque is important for safety.

Parts and components — what each piece is and does:
- Anti‑roll bar (sway bar, stabilizer bar): a bent steel tube or solid bar that resists twisting. It connects left and right suspension and stores twisting energy like a torsion spring.
- Bushings: rubber or polyurethane sleeves that sit between the bar and the frame bracket to reduce metal‑to‑metal contact and damp noise. They allow the bar to rotate (twist) in place.
- Brackets (mounting clamps): steel clamps bolted to the frame that hold the bushings and bar in place.
- End links (sway bar links): connect the ends of the bar to the axle control arms or axle housing. Could be simple stud/bolt with rubber bushings, or a ball‑joint style link.
- Fasteners: nuts, bolts, washers that secure the brackets and links. On TJ many are external grade bolts that rust; replace with new hardware if damaged.
- Grease/anti‑seize: silicone grease for bushing faces (for poly bushings use the lubricant supplied), anti‑seize on bolts helps future removal.
Analogy: imagine the anti‑roll bar as a metal see‑saw between the two wheels; when one side goes up (outside wheel on a turn), the bar twists and pushes down on the other side to keep the car flatter.

Theory — how it works (simple):
- When both wheels move up and down together (bump over a speed bump), the bar twists but the load is symmetrical so it does little to resist.
- When one wheel moves up and the other stays down (body roll in a turn), the bar twists and resists that relative motion, transferring some load to the opposite side. That resistance reduces body roll and improves cornering stability.
- End links transfer motion from the axle or lower control arm into the bar. Bushings control free rotation and suppress noise.

When this repair is needed / symptoms of failure:
- Excessive body roll or leaning in corners.
- Clunking or knocking noises over bumps (bad end links or broken bushings).
- Squeaking from bushings when turning (dry rubber).
- Visible rusted, cracked, or broken links or bushings; missing hardware.
- If a link is broken, the sway bar can dangle or be disconnected on one side.

Tools and supplies you’ll need:
- Jack and quality jack stands (2)
- Wheel chocks
- 3/8" or 1/2" drive socket set and wrenches (common sizes: 13, 15, 18 mm and 9/16”, 3/4” depending on hardware)
- Breaker bar, ratchet, extensions
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Torque wrench
- Pry bar
- Dead‑blow hammer or hammer
- Wire brush (clean threads)
- New sway bar bushings and end links (and bolts if rusted)
- Silicone grease (for rubber/poly bushings per manufacturer)
- Anti‑seize (optional) and replacement nuts/washers
- Work light
Optional but useful: impact wrench, heat source (propane torch) for stuck bolts, bench vise.

General replacement procedure (front or rear — steps apply to both with small differences noted). Read all steps before starting.

1) Preparation
- Park on flat ground, chock rear wheels if working front (or front if working rear), set parking brake.
- Loosen lug nuts slightly if removing wheel (recommended for easier access).
- Loosen end‑link nuts slightly while vehicle is on ground if they’re easily accessible — this prevents link rotating when vehicle is raised.
- Raise vehicle with jack and support with jack stands under solid frame points. Never work under unsupported vehicle.
- Remove wheel for easier access (helps visibility and torqueing).

2) Inspect and apply penetrating oil
- Spray all visible bracket bolts, end‑link nuts/studs and frame nuts with penetrating oil. Let soak 10–20 minutes.
- Tap with a hammer to help oil work in.

3) Support the axle/control arm (if necessary)
- On some TJ jobs, support the axle housing or lower control arm with a small jack or stand to keep geometry from shifting. This prevents springs from loading end links and makes removal easier.

4) Remove end links
- Remove the nut that secures the end link to the sway bar or to the axle/control arm. Many end links have a ball joint taper or stud—use an appropriate wrench to hold the stud and remove the nut.
- If the stud spins, use a hex key or punch into the end link’s flats to keep it from turning, or use vice grips.
- Remove link. If it’s seized, use penetrating oil and alternating impacts with a hammer, or apply heat carefully to the nut only (not near bushings or rubber). If the link is corroded, it’s often easiest to cut it and replace with new hardware.

5) Remove frame bracket bolts
- With end links disconnected, the bar is only held by the bushing brackets. Remove the bolts holding the brackets to the frame. On TJ these can be very rusty — more penetrating oil and gentle heat help.
- Remove the bracket and bushing. If bushings are stuck, pry out using a pry bar or large screwdriver. A small chisel helps break rubber free; be careful not to damage the bar if you intend to reuse it.

6) Remove the bar
- Once brackets and end links are out, the bar will drop out. Pay attention to orientation (which way bends point) and note any washers or spacers for reuse.
- Clean bar mounting surfaces and frame bracket area with wire brush. Inspect bar for cracks.

7) Prepare new parts
- If using new bushings: split or install bushings onto the bar per manufacturer instructions. Many rubber bushings are split and slide over bar; for harder poly bushings you may need soap/water or supplied grease to install.
- Apply silicone grease to bushing faces (rubber or poly as recommended). Do NOT use petroleum grease on rubber — use silicone or recommended lubricant.
- If replacing end links, compare new to old for length and configuration.

8) Install bar
- Place bar into position with bushings in the correct orientation (bushings should align with frame mounts; bracket bolt holes should line up).
- Install brackets over bushings and loosely install bolts by hand. Do not torque yet—leave slightly loose to allow final alignment.

9) Install new end links
- Attach the end links to the bar ends and to the axle housing or control arm. Install washers and nuts as required.
- If end links are adjustable length, set them close to the old length. Tighten nuts to hold but don’t fully torque until the vehicle is at ride height (see below).

10) Final tightening sequence
- Lower the vehicle onto the ground so the suspension is at normal ride height (this puts the sway bar and bushings at their normal position).
- With vehicle on the ground (or at specified ride height), torque the end‑link nuts and bracket bolts to factory torque specs. This is important: bushings can bind if torqued while unloaded.
- If you can’t torque on the ground (e.g., you must torque with springs partially compressed), follow the manual. Many pros torque bracket bolts to moderate values and then re‑check after a short drive.

11) Recheck and test
- Reinstall wheels, torque lug nuts to spec, lower vehicle.
- Double‑check all fasteners and that end link motion is free (no binding of ball joints).
- Road test at low speed: listen for clunks and check handling. Re‑check torques after first 50–100 miles.

Specific notes for Jeep TJ front vs rear:
- Front: end links connect sway bar to axle link/track bar or lower control arm; front hardware may be more exposed to water/mud and more rusty.
- Rear: links attach to rear axle and frame; the rear sway bar on some models is larger and heavier.
- TJ uses relatively simple end links; many owners upgrade to upgraded links or poly bushings for better response.

Common problems you’ll encounter and fixes:
- Seized bolts/studs: soak in penetrating oil, use heat on the nut (not on surrounding rubber), use impact wrench, or cut and replace bolt. If stud breaks inside the bracket, you may need to drill out and use helicoil or replace bracket.
- Bushings stuck to bar: pry carefully, use heat if rubber is gummy. Replace old bushings — don’t reuse perished rubber.
- End links binding after installation: often result of torquing while suspension unloaded. Fix by loosening, settling vehicle on ground, and re‑torquing.
- Squeaks after install: usually lack of grease or incorrect bushing lubricant. Apply correct silicone/poly lube.
- Incorrect bar orientation: bar must be reinstalled in correct orientation; otherwise geometry may be wrong. Mark orientation before removal or take photos.
- Upgrading: poly bushings and adjustable end links improve feel but can increase NVH (noise, vibration). Ensure compatibility with TJ mounting points.

Inspection checklist after replacement:
- No clunks/noise over bumps.
- Steering feels stable with reduced roll.
- Visual check: brackets secure, bushings seated, links straight and not binding.
- Re‑inspect torque after 50–100 miles.

Useful tips and shortcuts:
- Replace both end links at once even if one side looks OK — they age together and it saves time later.
- If bolts are heavily corroded, replace hardware with new grade‑8 or OEM hardware.
- Take photos before removal so you can replicate orientation and spacer placement.
- When in doubt, get the factory service manual pages for torque specs and procedures.

What can go really wrong if done incorrectly:
- Under‑torqued fasteners can loosen and cause sway bar to detach, leading to poor handling or damage.
- Over‑torqued bushings (torqued while unloaded) can cause bushing pre‑load, binding, premature failure, and odd handling.
- Broken or improperly installed end links can leave you with no anti‑roll effect on that axle and unsafe, unpredictable cornering.
- Damaging frame brackets or pulling out a rusted stud can require welding or replacing frame hardware — expensive repairs.

Quick troubleshooting if problems persist:
- Clunk when turning: check end link ball joints and nuts for looseness.
- Squeak on compression: add correct grease to bushings.
- No change in roll after replacement: verify links are installed and tight; check that bar is not broken and bushings are correctly oriented and not seized.

That’s the full walkthrough. Replace both bushings and links if in doubt, use penetrating oil and patience on rusty TJ hardware, torque to factory specs with the vehicle at ride height, and test carefully.
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