- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile or mechanic gloves to keep fluid off skin and eyes.
- Work on a flat, level surface; block rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone — always support the vehicle with jack stands placed under proper lift points.
- Let the vehicle cool if it ran recently — transmission fluid and metal parts can be hot.

- Overview (what you’ll do)
- Drain old fluid, inspect fluid and drain plug debris, replace any worn seals/gasket/filter as required, refill to correct level, check for leaks and test drive.
- Note: manual-gearbox and automatic-transmission procedures differ — see both below and use the one for your vehicle.

- Tools (detailed description and how to use each)
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: lever-operated jack that lifts vehicle by a saddle.
- Use: pump handle to raise vehicle to working height. Place under manufacturer-specified jacking point; raise until space for jack stands.
- Jack stands (pair)
- Description: adjustable-height, tripod or two-leg stands with locking pin.
- Use: position under solid frame or axle point, lower vehicle onto stands slowly; never work under a car held only by a jack.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: rubber or plastic wedges.
- Use: place behind wheels opposite the end you’re lifting to stop rolling.
- Drain pan (5–10 liter)
- Description: shallow pan that catches fluid with spout to pour.
- Use: position under drain plug or pan to collect fluid. Transfer old fluid to a sealed container for disposal.
- Socket set and ratchet (metric sizes, including 10, 12, 14, 17 mm common)
- Description: ratchet handle with a range of sockets.
- Use: remove drain plug and pan bolts. Choose socket that fits snugly; turn counterclockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten.
- Breaker bar
- Description: long non-ratcheting bar for added leverage.
- Use: used if bolts are very tight — apply steady force, avoid sudden jerks.
- Torque wrench
- Description: wrench that clicks or indicates when a preset torque is reached.
- Use: tighten drain plug and pan bolts to the manufacturer torque spec to avoid stripping threads or overtightening gaskets.
- Extension bar and universal joint for sockets
- Description: extensions to reach recessed bolts and a U-joint for angled access.
- Use: helps remove fill plug or pan bolts in cramped spaces.
- Screwdrivers (flat and Philips)
- Description: hand tools for clips or small screws.
- Use: pry gently on tabs or remove filter retaining screws if present.
- Funnel (small-diameter and long-neck)
- Description: cone-shaped pour aid; long-neck funnels reach fill holes.
- Use: use the long-neck funnel to slowly add fluid through the fill hole without spills.
- Fluid pump / suction pump (hand or electric)
- Description: manual or battery pump that pushes fluid through a hose.
- Use: very useful to refill transmissions where the fill hole is high or awkward; insert hose into fill hole and pump in fluid until level reached.
- Clean rags and brake cleaner
- Description: lint-free rags and solvent for cleaning mating surfaces.
- Use: wipe mating surfaces, remove old gasket material, clean around fill/drain plugs before opening.
- Pair of disposable gloves and oil-absorbent mat
- Description: PPE and surface protection.
- Use: keep workspace clean and protect your hands.
- Small magnet or debris magnet (optional)
- Description: handheld magnet.
- Use: check drain plug or pan for metal filings — small amounts are normal, large amounts indicate internal wear.
- Funnel with filter or strainer (optional)
- Description: funnel with mesh.
- Use: keep contaminants out when refilling.

- Extra tools you might need and why
- Transmission jack or lift (only if removing transmission)
- Reason: necessary if you need to drop the transmission for major repairs.
- Pan gasket scraper or razor (careful)
- Reason: to remove old gasket material if you drop the pan; use carefully to avoid scoring the pan or housing.
- New pan gasket and transmission filter (automatic) or crush washer for drain plug (manual/auto)
- Reason: pan gasket and filter are wear items; crush washer seals the drain plug to prevent leaks.
- Torque specs source (service manual or online manual)
- Reason: correct torque prevents leaks/damage; use a manual or factory data.

- Which parts commonly require replacement and why
- Automatic transmission filter
- Why: catches debris; if you drop the pan you should replace the filter because it’s inexpensive and keeps contaminants out.
- Typical replacement item: OEM Toyota filter or equivalent aftermarket filter for your specific model/year.
- Pan gasket (automatic)
- Why: compresses and seals pan to transmission; often deformed when removing pan and should be replaced to prevent leaks.
- Typical replacement item: paper/ cork/ rubber gasket matched to the pan.
- Drain plug crush washer (manual and some automatics)
- Why: seals the drain plug flange; single-use in many cars because it crushes to form a seal.
- Typical replacement item: copper or aluminum crush washer sized to the drain plug.
- Fill/drain plug seals or O-rings
- Why: if the plug has an O-ring, it can harden and leak; replace as preventative maintenance.
- Transmission fluid
- Why: fluid degrades; you must replace with correct type and quantity.
- Typical replacement item:
- Automatic: Toyota Type F or the ATF specified in your vehicle manual (older Toyotas often used Type F).
- Manual: gear oil specified by Toyota (commonly SAE 80W-90 GL-4 or as specified in manual). Confirm with your service manual.

- What to check before starting
- Identify whether you have manual or automatic transmission — automatic requires filter/pan service more often.
- Get the correct fluid type and an approximate quantity (check the manual; typical ranges: manual 2–4 L, automatic pan change 4–6 L, complete fill 6–10 L).
- Buy new gasket/filter/drain washer if you plan to drop the pan or replace the drain washer — cheaper to have beforehand.

- Procedure for a manual transmission fluid drain & refill (beginner-friendly)
- Park and secure vehicle, raise with jack, support on jack stands, chock wheels.
- Clean drain and fill plugs with rag.
- Place drain pan under transmission drain plug; use correct socket and ratchet to loosen and remove drain plug — fluid will flow immediately; let drain until it slows.
- Inspect drain plug and magnetic area for metal particles; use magnet or rag to check.
- Replace crush washer on drain plug; wipe mating surface clean; reinstall plug and hand-thread to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with torque wrench to factory spec (if unknown, snug but don’t over-torque; get spec later).
- Locate fill plug (higher on the case). Remove fill plug; use funnel or fluid pump to add recommended fluid until it starts to trickle out of the fill hole (this indicates proper level on many manual boxes).
- Reinstall fill plug with correct washer/O-ring and torque to spec.
- Lower vehicle, start engine briefly and cycle through gears (manual: shift through gears) to circulate fluid, re-check fill level and leaks, top up as needed.

- Procedure for an automatic transmission drain & refill (pan drop method)
- Park, secure, lift, and support as above; ensure planning for more fluid volume.
- Place large drain pan under transmission pan.
- Loosen pan bolts gradually around the pan to let the pan tilt and drain from one side — fluid will drain quickly; be prepared.
- Once drained, remove all bolts and lower the pan carefully; clean pan, inspect magnet(s) and fluid for metal shavings or distinct discoloration/burning smell.
- Remove and replace the transmission filter (if equipped). Clean sealing surfaces on transmission housing and pan.
- Install new pan gasket and filter; if gasket is reusable style, ensure it’s in good condition — recommended to replace.
- Reinstall pan and tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern to the service torque spec using a torque wrench.
- Remove the fill plug (or use dipstick tube if present). Refill with correct ATF type using a funnel or fluid pump until reaching specified level (on a warm engine with parking brake engaged and in park/neutral per manual). Many automatics require checking level with engine warmed and running and transmission in Park — follow service manual instructions carefully.
- Inspect for leaks, clean spills, lower vehicle, and test drive to confirm smooth shifting.

- How to use the torque wrench (brief)
- Set torque to specified Nm or ft-lb.
- Tighten slowly until wrench clicks or reads target; stop immediately when reached.
- If unsure of spec, hand-tighten then get the spec before final torque.

- Fluid type and quantities (confirm with service manual; approximate ranges)
- Automatic: older Toyotas commonly require Toyota Type F ATF; approximate pan-drop refill ~4–6 L; total fill ~6–10 L (varies by model).
- Manual: many older Toyota manuals use SAE 80W-90 GL-4 gear oil; capacity ~2–4 L.
- Always verify fluid type and capacity in a factory or reliable aftermarket service manual for your exact model/year.

- Signs you need additional part replacement or professional help
- Big metal chunks or excessive metal in pan or on magnet — internal damage; do not continue driving, consult a transmission specialist.
- Burnt, dark, or foul-smelling fluid — indicates overheating or internal wear; consider filter and possibly professional inspection.
- Persistent leaks after replacing gasket/washer — damaged sealing surfaces or case threads; may require professional repair or helicoil thread repair.
- Difficulty getting correct level or unable to fill via fill hole — may need professional pump or lift equipment.

- Fluid disposal
- Store old fluid in sealed containers and take to a recycling center or auto-parts store that accepts used oil/ATF. Do not dump on ground or into drains.

- Final checks
- Verify no leaks, correct fluid level per manual, smooth gear engagement; re-torque drain/fill plugs after initial road test if recommended.
- Record date, mileage, and fluid type for maintenance log.

- Quick tool-usage reminders (condensed)
- Ratchet/socket: pick correct size, turn counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Breaker bar: use for stuck bolts with gradual pressure.
- Torque wrench: set target, tighten until click.
- Fluid pump: insert hose into fill hole, pump slowly to avoid air pockets and spills.
- Funnel: steady, slow pour; use filtered funnel for cleanliness.

- Final note
- If you’re uncertain about any step, or find metal debris or burnt fluid, stop and consult a professional. Changing fluid is routine but missteps (wrong fluid, wrong level, cross-threading) can cause expensive damage.
rteeqp73

Hardtop Rust Repair : (FJ40 Week 24)

Rebuilding Engine Toyota Hardtop FJ40 2F Gasoline stlh 3thn gak nyala

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