- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and gloves; work on a flat surface with good lighting.
- Use wheel chocks and jack stands — never rely on a hydraulic jack alone.
- If the strut contains a compressed spring and you are not trained, do not attempt to disassemble it with a spring compressor; buy a complete replacement strut assembly instead.
- After replacement, get a professional wheel alignment before high-speed driving.

- What a “strut” is and when replacement is required
- The front strut (MacPherson-style) combines a shock absorber and a spring/top mount and controls ride height, damping, and steering geometry.
- Replace struts if you have fluid leaks, excessive bounce, clunking over bumps, uneven tire wear, sagging, or visible damage.
- Replace in axle pairs (both left and right) for balanced handling and consistent ride height.

- Parts you may need and why
- Complete strut assembly (recommended for beginners)
- Includes shock, coil spring, top mount/bearing, dust boot, bump stop — avoids handling the coil spring and removes the need for a spring compressor.
- Strut cartridge or shock insert (only for experienced users)
- Cheaper but requires disassembling the spring and a spring compressor; higher risk.
- Strut top mount / bearing
- Worn mounts cause noise and steering imprecision; often replaced with the strut.
- Dust boot and bump stop
- Protects the shock shaft and cushions extreme travel; commonly replaced when strut is changed.
- Lower/upper strut bolts and nuts
- Often corroded or torque-to-yield; replace if damaged or specified by manual.
- Sway-bar end link(s), brake line bracket bolts, ABS sensor clips
- Inspect and replace if worn/damaged; they attach to the strut area.
- New wheel lug nuts (optional) if damaged/corroded.
- Wheel alignment service (required after replacement) — needed to restore proper toe/camber.

- Tools you should have (basic set) and how to use them
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: Lifts vehicle under pinch welds or jacking points.
- Use: Pump handle to lift, position on specified jacking points; always support with jack stands immediately.
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Description: Adjustable stands to keep the vehicle raised safely.
- Use: Place under solid suspension or subframe points, lower vehicle onto stands and verify stability before working.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: Rubber/plastic blocks to prevent rolling.
- Use: Place behind wheels remaining on ground.
- Lug wrench / breaker bar with sockets
- Description: Long-handled bar for loosening tight lug nuts.
- Use: Break lug nuts loose while the wheel is on the ground to prevent spinning.
- Socket set (metric), ratchet, extensions
- Description: Versatile sockets for removing nuts and bolts.
- Use: Select correct socket size; use extension for recessed fasteners.
- Torque wrench (click type, appropriate range)
- Description: Accurately tightens bolts to manufacturer torque spec.
- Use: Torque wheel nuts and strut mounting bolts to the specified values from a service manual.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
- Description: Loosens rusted fasteners.
- Use: Spray on bolts and let soak before attempt to remove.
- Hammer and rubber mallet
- Description: For persuading stuck components free.
- Use: Tap lightly; avoid hammering steering knuckle excessively.
- Pry bar
- Description: Provides leverage to separate control arm/hub if needed.
- Use: Carefully separate components; avoid prying on rubber boots.
- Flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers
- Description: Removing clips and small brackets.
- Use: Pop off clips and pry hoses or shields free gently.
- Pin punch or drift (optional)
- Description: Helps remove stuck bolts/pins.
- Use: Tap to drive a seized bolt out after penetration.
- Impact wrench (optional)
- Description: Speeds removal of bolts.
- Use: Helpful but still verify torque with torque wrench on reassembly.
- Ball-joint separator / tie-rod/pitman puller (possibly required)
- Description: Separates ball joints or tie rod ends from knuckle without damage.
- Use: Use if steering knuckle/hub needs to separate from control arm.
- Spring compressor (only if NOT using a full assembly)
- Description: Compresses coil spring for safe disassembly of the strut.
- Use: Very dangerous if used improperly — follow tool manufacturer instructions precisely. Recommended only for experienced mechanics.
- Strut nut socket or thin-walled socket (for top shaft nut)
- Description: Special socket to hold or remove the nut on the piston rod.
- Use: May require holding the strut shaft with hex or locking pliers while turning nut.

- Why extra tools might be required
- Impact wrench speeds work but doesn’t replace a torque wrench for final tightening.
- Spring compressor only if reusing spring — required to safely remove the spring from the strut; high risk of violent release if misused.
- Ball-joint separator or puller if lower strut/hub bolts are stuck or if separating steering knuckle is needed.
- Penetrating oil and heat (propane torch used by professionals) if bolts are corroded — heat should be used with extreme caution around brake lines/fuel.

- Step-by-step procedure (front MacPherson strut — general guidance)
- Prepare vehicle: park on level ground, engage parking brake, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly with lug wrench.
- Raise and secure vehicle: jack up front at manufacturer jacking point, place jack stands under solid frame/suspension mounts, lower onto stands; confirm stability.
- Remove wheel: finish removing lug nuts and take wheel off.
- Inspect and prep: spray penetrating oil on strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar link nuts, and top mount nuts; let soak.
- Support hub/knuckle: use a secondary jack or pry-bar to support lower control arm or hub so it won’t drop when strut bolts are removed.
- Disconnect attachments: remove sway-bar end link from strut (or separate at link), unbolt brake hose/ABS sensor brackets attached to strut.
- Remove lower strut bolts: remove bolts/nuts securing strut to steering knuckle/hub; these can be tight/roust. Use breaker bar or impact as needed. Keep the hub supported.
- Remove top strut nuts: open the hood (or access the strut tower inside the cabin), remove the nuts holding the strut top mount to the tower. Hold the steering knuckle/hub if needed to prevent it from dropping.
- Remove the strut assembly: carefully lower the hub/control arm support and slide the strut free from the knuckle. Move the assembly out of the wheel well.
- Replace with new strut assembly: If you bought a complete assembly, position it into the tower and hand-tighten top nuts, then align and insert lower end into knuckle and fasten bolts loosely.
- Reattach brackets: reattach brake hose/ABS clips and sway-bar links to the strut.
- Torque fasteners: lower the vehicle slightly so suspension is at resting ride height (or follow manual instructions) and torque top and lower strut bolts to factory specifications using a torque wrench.
- Reinstall wheel: put wheel on, tighten lug nuts by hand, lower vehicle to the ground, then torque lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.
- Test and finalize: check that all fasteners are tight, take a slow test drive to confirm no unusual noises, and get a professional wheel alignment.

- If you have to disassemble the strut (not recommended for beginners)
- Use a quality spring compressor, secure the spring, compress evenly and slowly, remove top nut, then transfer spring and mount to new strut.
- Reassemble in reverse; double-check spring orientation and preload.
- This step is risky — a released spring can cause serious injury.

- Common pitfalls and tips
- Do not rely on the jack alone; always use stands.
- Replace both struts together; mismatched units cause handling imbalance.
- If bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil and allow time; heat may help but avoid damage to rubber lines and sensors.
- Keep track of torque specs — using incorrect torque can cause failure or unsafe handling. Consult a Toyota Hiace service manual or dealer for exact torque values for your model/year.
- If the strut top mount uses a bearing, replace it to avoid steering noise/imperfections.
- After reassembly, get a wheel alignment — toe and camber can shift with strut changes.

- Final notes (safety and professional recommendation)
- For a beginner with basic tools: buy complete replacement strut assemblies (front pair), new top mounts if not included, and arrange a professional wheel alignment after installation.
- If you feel uncertain at any step — or if bolts are severely corroded or components look damaged — stop and consult a professional mechanic.

No further questions.
rteeqp73

1991 Toyota HiAce Pre Purchase Inspection Test Drive~ClassicGray.com https://www.ClassicGray.com.

Toyota Hiace 2008 Rescue Head Gasket Leaking Into Engine

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