- Safety first
- Wear safety glasses and chemical-resistant gloves; work in a well-ventilated area away from flames or sparks.
- Have a rated fire extinguisher nearby and keep rags and an absorbent tray for fuel spills.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing any electrical or fuel-line work to avoid sparks.

- What a "cold start injector" (cold start valve) is and why you might work on it
- Small solenoid valve mounted on the intake/throttle area that injects extra fuel during cold cranking to help start.
- Problems cause hard cold starting, extended cranking, fuel smell, or engine flooding on cold start.
- You will be testing electrical function, fuel delivery at the valve, inspecting seals, cleaning or replacing the valve.

- Tools you need (each tool described and how to use it)
- Metric socket set with ratchet and extension
- Description: assortment of 8–19 mm sockets, 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet, and short extension.
- Use: remove small bolts that hold the injector or bracket; extensions let you reach cramped bolts.
- Combination wrenches (metric set)
- Description: open-end and box-end wrenches in common metric sizes.
- Use: hold nuts or turn bolts where a socket cannot reach.
- Flat and Phillips screwdrivers
- Description: standard screwdrivers in small sizes.
- Use: remove hose clamps, small fasteners, and plastic retainers.
- Needle-nose pliers and slip-joint pliers
- Description: needle-nose for getting into tight spots, slip-joint for grips and clamps.
- Use: disconnect electrical connectors, pull out clips, grip small hoses.
- Fuel line pliers or hose clamp pliers
- Description: pliers designed to open spring-type hose clamps or remove quick-connect fuel fittings.
- Use: safely detach fuel line fittings without cutting hoses; prevents damage to fittings.
- Multimeter (digital, DC volts and ohms)
- Description: measures voltage and resistance; selectable ranges for volts and ohms.
- Use: check injector coil resistance (ohms) and check for 12 V at the connector during cranking (volts). Set to appropriate range, probe terminals gently.
- Small flat razor blade or O‑ring pick
- Description: thin tool or plastic pick for removing seals.
- Use: remove old O-rings and seals without gouging mating surfaces.
- Fuel catch container and absorbent shop rags
- Description: metal or plastic container to catch drips, plus rags.
- Use: collect and contain any fuel when you open the line; prevent spills onto the ground.
- Cleaning solvent / brake cleaner and a small nylon brush
- Description: fast-evaporating cleaner safe for metal surfaces (follow product instructions).
- Use: clean mating surfaces and spray passages around injector; do not soak internal electronics.
- Compressed air (canned or shop air) – optional but very useful
- Description: short bursts of air to blow debris out of the mounting port.
- Use: dry cleaned areas and remove loose dirt before reinstalling.
- Torque wrench (recommended)
- Description: adjustable wrench that clicks or indicates when a set torque is reached.
- Use: torque mounting bolts to manufacturer spec to avoid leaks or stripped threads. If you don't have one, tighten snugly but do not overtighten.
- Small insulated jumper or test lead (only if you know what you’re doing)
- Description: short insulated lead to apply battery voltage momentarily.
- Use: bench-check valve operation by briefly energizing the solenoid; do not use for extended times — fuels and sparks are dangerous. Prefer using multimeter voltage test while cranking instead.
- Replacement O-rings and new cold start injector (if required)
- Description: OEM or equivalent cold start valve and the correct-size sealing O-rings/plugs for your Hiace engine.
- Use: replace worn seals and failed valve; part must match vehicle engine code/year.

- Preparatory steps
- Park, handbrake on, engine cool; work on level ground.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Relieve fuel system pressure: locate fuel pump fuse or relay, remove it, then crank the engine a few seconds until it won’t fire; this dumps line pressure safely. Catch any drips.
- Locate the cold start injector: typically mounted on or near the intake manifold/throttle body area with a small fuel pipe and a 1–2 pin electrical connector.

- Diagnostic checks (safest order)
- Visual inspection
- Look for cracked vacuum lines, frayed wiring, fuel leaks, or badly deteriorated O-rings; replace damaged items.
- Electrical check with multimeter (ohms)
- Disconnect the injector connector, set meter to low-ohm range, measure across the injector terminals.
- Expected: a low resistance (a few ohms to a few tens of ohms depending on model). If the meter shows infinite/open or a dead short (~0 Ω), the solenoid is bad.
- Note: consult a service manual for exact resistance for your Hiace/engine if available.
- Voltage check while cranking (volts)
- Reconnect connector, backprobe carefully or use a suitable probe, set meter to 12 V DC; have an assistant crank the engine (or turn ignition to the start position).
- You should see battery voltage present briefly when the ECU commands the valve (usually during cold cranking). No voltage may indicate wiring/ECU/relay problem.
- Safety: keep clear of moving parts while someone cranks engine.
- Fuel delivery check (be cautious)
- With the injector removed and fuel line directed into an approved container, briefly crank to check for a short spray/pulse from the injector port. Do this only briefly and have fire safety ready. If no fuel appears but injector solenoid is energized, the injector is clogged or supply line is blocked.

- Removal procedure
- With battery negative disconnected and fuel pressure relieved, place catch container and rags under the injector area.
- Disconnect the electrical connector by depressing the clip and pulling gently.
- Loosen and remove the small fuel line fitting or clamp; use hose clamp pliers or appropriate wrench; expect a small amount of fuel to drip.
- Remove the injector mounting bolt(s) with socket or wrench.
- Pull the injector straight out; use a twisting motion if it’s stuck but avoid prying on the casing.
- Remove and inspect O-rings/seals. Do not reuse damaged O-rings.

- Cleaning and inspection
- Inspect injector body for corrosion, cracked plastic, or obvious damage. If damaged, replace the unit.
- Clean the mounting bore with brake cleaner and a nylon brush; blow dry with compressed air.
- Clean the injector exterior with cleaner; do not attempt to disassemble the internal solenoid valve.
- Replace the O-rings with new parts; lightly lubricate new O-rings with clean engine oil before fitting.

- Reinstallation
- Install new O-rings and seat the injector evenly into the port.
- Refit mounting bolts and torque to spec if known; otherwise snug but avoid overtightening.
- Reconnect fuel line and electrical connector; ensure a firm click on the connector.
- Reinstall fuel pump fuse/relay if removed, reconnect battery negative terminal.
- Turn ignition to ON a couple of times to prime the fuel system and check for leaks before starting.

- Testing after reassembly
- Check visually for leaks while cranking and after starting.
- Cold-start the engine to verify improved starting behavior.
- If still hard to start, check wiring and ECU control, fuel supply (fuel filter, pump), and compression/engine health.

- When replacement is required and why
- Replace the cold start injector when:
- Electrical test shows an open circuit or shorted coil.
- Injector leaks internally or externally despite new seals.
- Cleaning does not restore correct spray/pulse and cold starting remains poor.
- Parts commonly replaced together
- Cold start injector/valve (OEM recommended for fit and calibration).
- Injector O-rings/seal kit (always replace seals when removing).
- Fuel filter (if contaminated fuel suspected).
- If voltage is missing, wiring harness connector or relay may be faulty — replace or repair as needed.
- How to get the correct replacement
- Use vehicle VIN/engine code/year to order the exact part; online parts suppliers or Toyota dealer can confirm the part number.

- Extra safety and troubleshooting notes
- If you are not comfortable testing live fuel lines or backprobing connectors while cranking, stop and take the vehicle to a professional.
- Any persistent electrical-noise or missing-voltage result points to wiring harness, ground, relay, or ECU control — a wiring diagram or a shop is usually needed.
- Dispose of used fuel and contaminated rags according to local regulations.

- Final recommendation (brief)
- If you can do basic hand-tool work and follow safety steps, you can inspect, clean, and replace the cold start injector and seals yourself. Replace the injector if electrical tests fail or cleaning doesn’t restore function. If wiring or ECU control is the issue, seek professional diagnostic help.
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