Tools & consumables (typical)
- Basic hand tools: 10–22 mm sockets, extensions, ratchet, breaker bar, hex/Allen/torx as required
- Torque wrench (covering required range)
- Harmonic balancer/ crank pulley puller
- Camshaft sprocket holding/locking tool(s) and crankshaft locking pin (engine-specific)
- Timing chain tensioner compressor/adapter (for compressing/installing hydraulic tensioner)
- Seal puller and installer (crank/cam seals)
- Gasket scraper, RTV sealant
- Engine support or hoist (if engine mount removal required)
- Drain pan, shop rags, brake cleaner or solvent
- New timing chain kit (chain, guides, tensioner — hydraulic or mechanical depending on engine), sprocket bolts if one-time-use, front crank seal, cam seal(s), timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket, and any O‑rings
- Replacement water pump/drive belts if aged
- Shop manual/service data for your Hiace engine (torques, timing marks, special tool part numbers)

Safety precautions
- Work on a flat, level surface with parking brake on; chock rear wheels.
- Disconnect negative battery terminal before starting.
- Support engine if motor mount removal is required (engine support bar or jack under oil pan with block of wood).
- Allow engine to cool fully before removing components that contain coolant/oil.
- Use eye protection and gloves. Dispose of fluids properly.
- If uncertain about timing alignment, stop and consult the factory manual — mis-timing can destroy an engine.

Overview / applicability
- Procedure varies by Hiace engine (e.g., 2L/3L diesel, 1TR-FE, 2TR-FE, 1KD/1KZ/2KD diesels). Use this as a general, engine-agnostic step-by-step. Always verify engine-specific locking points, mark patterns and torque specs in the factory service manual.

Step-by-step procedure (general)
1. Preparation
- Gather parts and tools. Drain engine oil and coolant if timing cover removal affects coolant passages.
- Remove negative battery cable.

2. Gain access
- Remove engine covers, intake snorkel, airbox, intercooler piping (if applicable), alternator/accessory belts, and any obstructions to the timing cover.
- Remove crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer: loosen bolt, use crank pulley puller to remove. This exposes timing cover.

3. Remove valve cover(s) and timing cover
- Remove valve cover(s) to access cam sprockets (mark valve cover bolt locations for reassembly).
- Remove timing cover bolts and take off timing cover. May require removal of front engine mount or other items — support engine if necessary.

4. Set engine to Top Dead Center (TDC)
- Rotate crankshaft by hand to TDC for cylinder 1 on compression stroke. Align crank timing mark with its reference.
- Verify camshaft timing marks: rotate cams until their timing marks align with reference marks per manual.
- Use camshaft locking tool(s) if available: insert into slots or bolt into designated holes to hold cam sprockets in correct position. How the tool is used: the cam lock engages sprocket flats or holes and secures the cam to prevent rotation while you remove/install the chain.

5. Lock crankshaft
- Insert crank locking pin (if engine has one) into crankshaft timing hole to prevent rotation. If no pin, hold crank using a holding tool on the pulley/snout.
- Double-check all timing marks are aligned and locks are secure.

6. Remove tensioner and chain
- Depressurize and remove hydraulic tensioner or release mechanical tensioner according to manual.
- For hydraulic tensioners, use the tensioner compressor tool to compress and hold the piston when reinstalling; for removal, simply retract and remove retaining pin/bolt per manual.
- Remove timing chain guides and sprocket bolts if required. Remove chain from sprockets.

7. Inspect components & replace worn parts
- Inspect guides for cracks/wear, tensioner for leakage or weak spring, sprockets for wear. Replace chain, guides, tensioner, and any one-use bolts.
- Replace front crank seal, cam seals, timing cover gasket, and valve cover gasket while accessible.

8. Install new chain & components — aligning marks
- Fit new sprockets/bolts if replacing.
- Position new chain on crank sprocket and cam sprockets so that all timing marks on chain links line up with sprocket marks per the manual.
- If multiple chain links have marks, follow the specific alignment procedure for your engine (some engines use colored links). The correct procedure is: align cam sprockets first, ensure chain has appropriate slack on the non-tension side.
- Reinstall guides and torque bolts to factory spec.

9. Install tensioner
- For hydraulic tensioners: compress with tensioner compressor tool, fit into place, then release per procedure (some require a pin to keep compressed until installed, then remove pin to allow tensioner to take up slack). How the tool is used: it compresses the tensioner piston to allow insertion into its bore without damaging the piston lip — once installed, you release or remove the retaining pin so the tensioner extends and sets tension.
- For mechanical tensioners, set pre-load per manual.

10. Remove locking tools & verify
- Remove cam and crank locking tools carefully.
- Rotate engine by hand (using a socket on crankbolt) at least two full revolutions in direction of normal rotation. This sets chain tension and confirms no interference.
- Re-align to TDC, re-check timing marks. If marks do not match, stop and re-check chain alignment and tensioner installation.

11. Reassemble
- Replace timing cover gasket and install timing cover, torque bolts to spec.
- Refit crank pulley with proper thread locker if required and torque crank bolt to spec.
- Reinstall valve cover(s) with new gaskets.
- Refit accessories, belts, battery connection. Refill coolant and oil if drained.
- Prime oil system if recommended (e.g., crank engine with fuel/ignition disabled or follow specific bleeding procedure to ensure tensioner hydraulic pressure).

12. Start and test
- Start engine and let idle, listen for abnormal noise (rattle = tensioner/chain problem).
- After warm-up, re-torque bolts if manual calls for that, and re-check for leaks.
- Road test and re-check timing belt/chain area for leaks/noise.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Misaligned timing marks: always use factory marks and locking tools. One tooth off will cause poor running or engine damage.
- Not replacing tensioner/guides: reused components are common failure points — replace them with the chain.
- Improperly compressed/installed hydraulic tensioner: use the correct compressor tool or the piston can be damaged; ensure it is released/unlocked per procedure so it can take up slack.
- Re-using single‑use bolts: many sprocket bolts are stretch bolts — replace with new.
- Not supporting the engine when removing mounts: can cause engine damage or personal injury.
- Not rotating engine manually to verify: always rotate by hand two revolutions and re-check marks.
- Incorrect torque/sequence: always torque bolts to factory specs in the specified sequence.
- Contaminating oil passages when installing tensioner: keep components clean and use assembly lube where required.

Replacement parts required (recommended)
- Timing chain (kit)
- Chain guides (both sides)
- Timing chain tensioner (hydraulic/mechanical depending)
- Sprocket bolts (if factory specifies one-time use)
- Crankshaft front seal, cam seals if leaking or removed
- Timing cover gasket, valve cover gasket, O-rings
- Optional: water pump, accessory belts, and any worn pulleys

Final notes
- Exact timing marks, locking points, and torque specs are engine-specific. Obtain the factory service manual or reputable repair data for your Hiace engine model and follow its specified procedures and torque values.
- If you are not experienced with timing systems, consider professional help: an incorrectly timed engine can suffer catastrophic failure.

End.
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1) What the band is and how it works (theory)
- Automatic transmissions use clutches and one or more bands. A band is a steel strap with a friction lining that wraps partly around a rotating drum.
- A hydraulic servo pushes the band closed against the drum to stop (hold) that drum’s rotation so a different gear set becomes the driven element. The band converts hydraulic pressure into a frictional hold.
- Adjustment sets the band’s free play: too loose = the servo must travel farther before the band grips, causing slipping, delayed engagement, overheating and burned lining; too tight = the band drags continuously, causing harsh/abrupt shifts, chatter, accelerated wear and possible inability to release to shift. Proper adjustment lets the servo apply full clamp quickly without continuous drag.

2) Symptoms that indicate band mis-adjustment
- Slipping in the affected gear (engine revs rise without speed increase), delayed engagement (especially from Park/Neutral to Drive/Reverse), harsh or abrupt shifts into that gear, slippage only in 1st/2nd/reverse depending on which band, burnt smell or dark transmission fluid, metal particles in pan. If the band is beyond adjustment, symptoms persist after correct adjustment.

3) Prepare and safety checks (why these matter)
- Park on level ground, chock wheels, set parking brake, block wheels. Work with transmission warm (fluid at operating temp) because clearances change with temperature.
- Use jack stands if lifting vehicle. Do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Check fluid level and color first; very low or burnt fluid must be corrected before adjusting because hydraulic pressure affects engagement.

4) Locate the adjuster and know your transmission (why model matters)
- Many Toyota autos have external adjuster screws with locknuts accessible through an inspection port or on the transmission case. Some require removing a small cover or the pan. Exact adjuster location, procedure and back‑off specification are model-specific — refer to the factory service manual for the Hiace’s transmission model. The principle below applies to most band‑style adjustments.

5) Step-by-step adjustment procedure (in order) with the reason for each step
1. Warm the transmission to operating temperature (drive until normal temp). Reason: thermal expansion alters clearance; adjust at operating temp for correct free play.
2. Park, chock, engage parking brake, place selector in Neutral or Park as specified by the manual, and let engine idle at specified rpm. Reason: selecting the correct gear keeps hydraulic circuits in the defined state for the adjustment.
3. Locate band adjuster and expose it (remove inspection cover if required). Have the correct wrench/ratchet and a screwdriver or feeler if specified. Reason: you must reach the adjuster and locknut.
4. Loosen the locknut that secures the adjuster screw. Reason: free the screw so you can turn it.
5. Turn the adjuster screw in (clockwise) until the band contacts the drum. How you detect contact:
- On many transmissions you turn until you feel resistance or until the drum just stops turning if you manually try to rotate it.
- Another method some manuals use: turn until the adjuster bottoms/contacts a stop or until a specified reading on a dial gauge.
Reason: establish the “touch” point so subsequent read-off is from a known reference.
6. Back the adjuster off the specified amount (the factory specified number of turns or flats) to provide the correct free play. Typical procedures are “turn until tight, then back off X turns” — X is model-specific. Reason: this sets the designed clearance so the servo only has the intended travel before the band engages and prevents continuous drag.
7. Hold the adjuster and tighten the locknut to the specified torque. Reason: prevents the adjuster from moving; correct torque avoids loosening or distorting the adjustment.
8. Re-check the free play if the manual directs (some procedures include verifying with drum rotation or feeler measurement). Reason: ensures locknut tightening didn’t move the adjuster.
9. Reinstall covers/pan, top up and recheck fluid level at operating temperature and correct gear position. Reason: pan removal or leaks can change level; correct level is required for proper hydraulic pressure.
10. Road test and re-evaluate. If the symptom is gone and shifts are smooth, finish. If slipping or harshness remains, further internal inspection may be required. Reason: some wear cannot be corrected by adjustment.

6) How the repair fixes the fault (mechanical explanation)
- If the band was too loose: tightening (backing off from the contact point to the correct amount) reduces the band’s free travel, so the hydraulic servo needs to move only the designed distance before the lining clamps the drum. That eliminates or reduces slipping and delay because the lining engages faster and with full clamp. It also restores proper hydraulic timing and pressure distribution to other clutches/gears.
- If the band was too tight: backing the adjuster off increases the clearance so the band no longer drags when released; that removes continuous friction that caused harsh engagement, stalling, overheating and early wear.
- In both cases the adjustment restores the designed band-to-drum clearance so the servo’s travel matches the mechanical life/wear state of the lining. If the lining is excessively worn or the drum is scored, the required adjustment may exceed safe limits — in that case the symptom persists and internal replacement (band, drum, servo piston/seal) is required.

7) Limits, diagnostics and when adjustment is not enough
- Adjustment compensates for moderate lining wear. If the adjuster reaches its limit (full in or full out) and symptoms persist, the band or drum is worn or hydraulics/seals are faulty.
- Check fluid condition, metal particles in the pan, and servo seal leaks. If metal or burnt fluid is present, plan for internal service (remove pan/servos/drums).
- If an adjustment immediately reverts or the locknut won’t hold, suspect stripped threads, fractured band anchor, or damaged locknut — repair is mechanical.

8) Safety and final notes
- Always use the factory service manual for exact turn counts, back‑off amounts, torque values and the correct gear/selector positions for the specific Hiace transmission model. Small errors in the number of turns or torque can create the very problems you are trying to fix.
- Work with the transmission at correct operating temperature, use proper supports, and recheck fluid level and road-test after adjustment.

Summary (short)
- The band is a friction strap that holds a drum; adjustment sets its free play. Adjusting (in order) means warm the trans, park and secure the vehicle, locate and loosen the locknut, tighten the adjuster until it contacts, back off the specified amount, torque the locknut, recheck fluid and road-test. Correct adjustment eliminates slipping or dragging by restoring the intended clearance so the hydraulic servo and band engage only when required. If symptoms persist or the adjuster is out of range, internal replacement/repair is needed.
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