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Toyota Hiace Van 1989-2004 factory workshop and repair manual download

- Safety first — important cautions before you start
- Always work on a level surface, use wheel chocks front and rear, and never rely on a jack alone to support the van. Exhaust components get extremely hot — allow the vehicle to fully cool for several hours before starting.
- Wear safety glasses, heavy gloves, long sleeves, and hearing protection when cutting or grinding. Work in a well-ventilated area — catalytic substrates can release dust if broken.
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental electrical issues when removing O2 sensors.
- Be aware of local emissions laws: removing or replacing the catalytic converter with a non-compliant unit can be illegal.

- Signs the catalytic converter may need replacement
- Check Engine Light with codes such as P0420 (catalyst efficiency) or related O2 sensor codes.
- Rattling noise from underneath (broken internal substrate).
- Dramatic loss of engine power, poor acceleration, or engine stumbling.
- Strong rotten-egg (sulfur) smell or visible external damage/holes.
- Excessive backpressure causing overheating or stalling.

- Parts you may need and why
- Catalytic converter assembly (specific to model/year or universal bolt/clamp-on)
- Why: the failed component that reduces harmful emissions. Use OEM part or EPA-compliant aftermarket unit for legal compliance.
- Notes: some Hiace models have the cat integrated into the exhaust manifold or an underbody unit. If integrated, you may need manifold replacement or professional cutting/welding.
- Exhaust gaskets (flange gaskets) and new flange bolts/nuts
- Why: flange gaskets and rusted bolts are commonly damaged and must be replaced to ensure a leak-free seal.
- O2 (oxygen) sensor(s)
- Why: sensors can be contaminated or damaged. Replacing sensors during converter replacement avoids reusing a defective sensor and helps ECU relearn.
- Exhaust clamps or hangers (rubber insulators)
- Why: worn hangers cause sagging and may prevent correct alignment.
- Anti-seize compound (on O2 sensor threads)
- Why: prevents sensors from seizing in hot threads and eases future removal.
- Optional: replacement section pipe or flex pipe if rusted/welded
- Why: if the converter is welded or the adjacent piping is too corroded, replacing a section or welding is necessary.

- Tools required (basic set) — detailed tool descriptions and how to use each
- Hydraulic floor jack
- Description: low-profile jack used to lift the vehicle by the jacking points.
- How to use: position on the manufacturer jacking point, pump handle to lift. Lift just enough to place jack stands. Never work supported only by the jack.
- Jack stands (pair) rated for the van’s weight
- Description: adjustable supports that hold the vehicle safely at the lifted height.
- How to use: after lifting with the jack, place stands under recommended support points, lower the jack slowly until the van rests solidly on the stands.
- Wheel chocks
- Description: wedges that prevent rolling.
- How to use: place behind and/or in front of wheels remaining on ground before lifting.
- Socket set with ratchet and extensions (metric sizes useful: 10mm–19mm)
- Description: sockets and ratchet handle for removing bolts and nuts.
- How to use: choose correct socket for bolt; use extensions to reach tight places; turn ratchet counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten.
- Breaker bar (long-handled bar)
- Description: non-ratcheting long bar that gives extra leverage to break seized bolts.
- How to use: fit socket on the breaker bar; pull slowly and steadily to avoid rounding bolts. Use penetrating oil first on rusted bolts.
- Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Description: liquid that seeps into rusted threads to help free seized fasteners.
- How to use: spray on bolts/nuts and let soak for 10–30 minutes, repeat if necessary.
- Oxygen sensor socket (or 22mm open-end/socket with slotted side)
- Description: special socket with a slot so the sensor harness fits while loosening the sensor.
- How to use: fit over sensor hex and break loose with ratchet or breaker bar; turn counterclockwise to remove.
- Torque wrench (click-type)
- Description: wrench that allows tightening bolts to a specified torque.
- How to use: set desired torque per service manual and tighten bolts until the wrench clicks. Use for flange bolts and sensors if a spec is given.
- Sawzall / reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blade OR an angle grinder with cut-off wheel
- Description: power cutting tool used to cut rusted bolts or welded sections of exhaust piping.
- How to use: clamp and steady the area, cut carefully. Wear eye/face protection and gloves. Keep blade cool and avoid nearby fuel lines. If you’re not comfortable cutting, get professional help.
- Exhaust hanger removal tool (or pry bar plus strong pliers)
- Description: tool to pry rubber hangers off metal pegs.
- How to use: position the tool under the rubber hanger, pry the hanger off the peg; lubricate hangers with penetrating oil or soapy water to ease removal.
- Wire brush / wire wheel
- Description: cleans flange surfaces and threads from carbon/rust.
- How to use: scrub mating surfaces and bolt threads to ensure a clean fit.
- Hammer and chisel (cold chisel)
- Description: used to free stuck components and tap off corroded flanges.
- How to use: strike carefully to break rust bonds; avoid excessive force that could damage surrounding parts.
- Welding equipment (only if you will weld parts)
- Description: MIG/TIG welder and appropriate safety gear.
- Why it may be required: welded-in converters or to attach new sections; welding requires skill—get a shop if inexperienced.
- Exhaust clamps / U-bolt clamps
- Description: clamps to join exhaust pipes when flanges are not used.
- How to use: position clamp around joint and tighten evenly until snug; do not overtighten and crush pipe.
- Pry bar / large screwdriver
- Description: help align pipes and flanges during reassembly.
- How to use: use to lever components into alignment; avoid excessive bending.

- Optional power tools and when they’re needed
- Impact wrench (air or battery)
- Why it helps: quickly breaks loose seized bolts that manual tools can’t; reduces effort.
- Caution: can break corroded bolts—have replacement bolts ready.
- Oxy-acetylene torch
- Why used: heating bolts to expand and break rust bond.
- Caution: risk of fire — do not use near fuel lines or in unsafe environments. Prefer professional use.

- Step-by-step procedure (beginner-friendly, assume basic tools)
- Prepare work area, gather parts and tools listed above, chock wheels and disconnect negative battery terminal.
- Lift the van using the floor jack at manufacturer jacking point and securely support on jack stands. Double-check stability before crawling underneath.
- Locate the catalytic converter: follow the exhaust from the engine back; the cat is a bulged section of pipe with flanges and often O2 sensors mounted on it.
- Remove O2 sensor(s) first using the oxygen sensor socket:
- Spray penetrating oil around the sensor threads and wiring connector to loosen.
- Disconnect the sensor electrical connector in the engine bay or underbody (note routing).
- Use the sensor socket and breaker bar/ratchet to loosen and remove the sensor. Apply anti-seize to new sensor threads (avoid contaminating the sensor tip).
- Inspect the mounting style:
- If bolted/flanged: spray penetrating oil liberally on bolts and nuts, allow time to soak.
- If welded: you will need to cut the pipe with a Sawzall or grinder or have the unit welded by a shop.
- Remove flange bolts or clamps:
- Use breaker bar and appropriate sockets. If bolts spin, try to hold the nut with a second wrench or cut them off with the Sawzall or grinder.
- If bolts are removed, separate the flanges; use a wire brush to clean flange faces. Replace flange gaskets.
- Free exhaust hangers:
- Spray hangers with penetrating oil or soap solution.
- Use hanger tool or pry bar to pull the rubber hanger off the peg. Support the converter while removing hangers.
- Remove the old catalytic converter:
- Maneuver it out from under the van. If heavy or stuck, get help; don’t strain yourself.
- Inspect adjoining pipes for damage or severe rust; decide if those sections need replacement.
- Compare old and new part:
- Ensure flange spacing, pipe diameters, sensor ports, and orientation match. Some universal cats may need reducers or clamps.
- Prepare mating surfaces and new parts:
- Clean flange faces with wire brush. Place new gasket(s) in position.
- If the new converter requires welding and you have no welding skill, get a shop to weld; otherwise use bolt-on flange or clamp-on universal unit.
- Install the new catalytic converter:
- Fit into hangers first to support it.
- Bring flanges together, insert new bolts/nuts, snug by hand.
- If using clamps, seat pipes fully and position clamps over the joint.
- Tighten flange bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern to compress the gasket; use torque wrench and follow torque specs from service manual if available.
- Re-install O2 sensor(s):
- Apply a small amount of anti-seize to threads (do not get on the sensor tip), thread sensor in by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten to specified torque or snug firmly (typically ~30–40 Nm for many sensors — check spec).
- Reconnect the electrical connector and secure wiring to avoid heat contact.
- Re-check hangers, clearances, and that nothing contacts the body.
- Lower the vehicle carefully from the jack stands.
- Reconnect negative battery terminal.
- Start the engine, listen for exhaust leaks (hissing or popping), visually inspect for leaks, and check for check-engine light. If CEL appears, read codes — O2 sensors or catalyst efficiency codes may require clearing and a drive cycle.
- After a short test drive, re-torque bolts if manufacturer recommends.

- Common complications and how to handle them
- Severely rusted bolts that won’t budge: soak overnight with penetrating oil, use heat (carefully) or cut them off with an angle grinder or Sawzall. Have replacement bolts/studs ready.
- Converter welded in place or integrated into manifold: this often requires professional cutting/welding or replacement of the manifold assembly.
- Wrong-fit aftermarket cat: returns or adaptors may be needed; verify part number for your Hiace model/year or source a direct-fit OEM converter.
- Recurrent check-engine light: replace bad O2 sensors, clear codes, and perform a drive cycle. If P0420 persists with a new cat and good sensors, catalytic efficiency may still be low or there may be upstream engine issues.

- When to get a professional
- If the catalytic converter is welded into the manifold or piping and you don’t have cutting/welding skills or equipment.
- If you encounter structural rust near jack points or frame.
- If you’re uncomfortable lifting/supporting the vehicle, cutting exhaust metal, or dealing with seized components.
- For emissions/legal compliance or warranty installations, have a certified shop replace the part.

- Legal and emissions considerations
- Use an OEM or certified aftermarket catalytic converter that meets your region’s emissions standards.
- Removing or bypassing the catalytic converter is illegal in many jurisdictions and can result in fines and failed inspections.

- Quick checklist of parts to buy before starting
- Correct catalytic converter (OEM or compliant aftermarket) for your Hiace year/model or a universal converter with matching pipe sizes and flanges
- Flange gaskets and replacement bolts/nuts
- Replacement O2 sensor(s) if old or damaged
- Exhaust clamps or replacement pipe sections as needed
- Anti-seize compound, penetrating oil, and safety gear

- Final practical tips
- Take photos before disassembly to help reassembly and sensor routing.
- Work methodically: loosen fasteners in stages rather than forcing single items.
- Keep all removed bolts and small parts organized in a tray.
- If unsure at any point, stop and consult a professional — exhaust work can affect emissions, safety, and vehicle performance.

No questions — follow these steps, use the listed tools as described, and replace any worn gaskets, bolts, or sensors as required for a correct, leak-free installation.
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