Tools & supplies
- Floor jack and rated jack stands (2) + wheel chocks
- Socket set (metric): 10–24 mm commonly (12,14,17,19 mm) — check vehicle
- Combination wrenches matching sockets
- Torque wrench (range to at least 100 Nm)
- Ratchet, breaker bar
- Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, WD-40 Specialist)
- Hammer & cold chisel/punch or pickle fork (ball joint separator)
- Hex/Allen keys or Torx (some sway bar link studs have internal hex to hold)
- Impact wrench (optional, speeds up removal)
- Wire brush
- Anti-seize or medium-strength thread locker (per OEM)
- Grease (if link has grease nipple)
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Replacement sway bar links (front and/or rear as required), new nuts/bolts/cotter pins if applicable

Safety first
1. Park on level ground, engage parking brake, block rear wheels with chocks.
2. Loosen wheel lug nuts slightly while vehicle is on ground.
3. Lift vehicle with floor jack only at rated lift points; support securely on jack stands — never rely on the jack alone.
4. Use eye protection when striking or using penetrating sprays; wear gloves to avoid cuts/chemicals.

Parts required
- Correct front (and/or rear) stabilizer/sway bar end links for your Toyota Hiace year/model. Replace both left & right as a matched set if one is failed (recommended).
- Replace any missing cotter pins, washers, or bushings included with the link.
- If OEM links use pressed-in studs or special bushings, buy the proper OE-style parts.

Step-by-step replacement (front sway bar link — procedure is same for both sides)
1. Preparation
- Jack up the front and support on jack stands. Remove front wheel.
- Inspect the stabilizer link to see mounting orientation (top to strut/lower control arm, bottom to anti-roll bar).
- Spray nuts/stud threads with penetrating oil. Let soak 10–20 minutes if seized.

2. Prevent stud rotation
- Inspect the link stud head: many have a thin hex socket or flats on the stud. Use the correct Allen key or second wrench on the flats to hold the stud while you loosen the nut.
- If no flats: use a 2nd wrench on the nut holding the stud from turning if possible.

3. Remove nuts
- Use socket/breaker bar or impact to remove the nut(s) that secure the link to the control arm/strut and to the stabilizer bar.
- If the nut is corroded, strike the nut sharply with a hammer to break rust, then apply more penetrating oil and retry.
- If the stud is pressed into the link end and won’t release, use a ball joint separator (pickle fork) or a hammer and punch to dislodge the tapered stud from its mounting hole. Be careful of surrounding seals and bushings.
- Remove the link from both attachment points. Some links are two-piece with bushings; others are ball-joint style — take it out as a unit.

4. Clean and inspect
- Wire-brush the mounting holes/threads on the sway bar and control arm/strut.
- Inspect sway bar bushings and brackets — replace if heavily worn.

5. Install new link
- Compare new link to old for correct length and end orientation.
- If the new link has grease fittings, grease as instructed.
- Insert the new link into the sway bar bracket and into the control arm/strut mount. On some vehicles you’ll need to lift or compress suspension slightly to line up holes — use the jack gently under the lower arm to achieve correct ride height alignment if needed.
- Fit supplied washers/bushings as per part instructions (some aftermarket links have double bushings or sleeves).

6. Tightening sequence & torque
- Fit nuts hand-tight first.
- With vehicle on ground at normal ride height (important — do not fully torque rubber-bushed links with suspension drooped), torque each nut to the manufacturer spec. If you don’t have the manual, typical front sway bar link nut torque for vans is roughly 40–70 Nm (30–52 ft-lb) — check the Hiace shop manual for exact figure.
- If spec requires, use thread locker or anti-seize per manufacturer instructions.
- If the stud uses a castellated nut and cotter pin, tighten to spec then align slot and install new cotter pin.

7. Final steps
- Refit wheel, tighten lug nuts slightly with vehicle still on stands.
- Lower vehicle to ground, torque wheel lug nuts to spec.
- Double-check tightness of sway bar link nuts, and inspect for clearance.
- Test drive at low speed and listen for clunks; recheck fasteners after first 50–100 km (30–60 miles).

How each tool is used (practical notes)
- Jack & jack stands: raise vehicle at manufacturer lift points, then lower onto stands. Reposition jack if you need to slightly raise/lower suspension to line up holes.
- Penetrating oil: spray at threads and base of studs; let soak to break rust. Repeat as needed.
- Wrenches & sockets: use one to hold the stud (Allen hex or flats) and one to break the nut loose. Breaker bar for initial stubborn nuts.
- Pickle fork/ball joint separator: insert between ball stud taper and hub/control arm, strike to separate if nut removal alone doesn’t free the stud.
- Hammer & punch: used carefully to shock-free corroded studs or to drive out stuck sleeves. Don’t damage threads.
- Torque wrench: final tightening to specified Nm — required to avoid under/over-tightening.
- Impact wrench: speeds removal but be cautious reinstallation torque — always finish with torque wrench.

Common pitfalls & how to avoid them
- Over-tightening or under-tightening: always use a torque wrench and torque at ride height if bushing is preloaded.
- Replacing only one side: leads to uneven wear & noise — replace both links when one fails.
- Damaging new bushings by tightening with suspension drooped: tighten to final spec with vehicle on ground or at normal ride height.
- Relying solely on penetrating oil and hammering: excessive force can damage threads or stud seats — use heat carefully if needed, but avoid heating rubber bushings and ABS sensors.
- Losing small parts (washers, bushings, cotter pins): work on flat surface and lay out parts in order.
- Cross-threading new studs: start nuts by hand before using wrench.
- Not checking matching length: wrong-length aftermarket links can change handling; always match part numbers.
- Not re-torquing after test drive: many fasteners seat after a short road test — recheck.

When to replace additional items
- If sway bar bushings are split or flat, replace bushings at same time.
- If brackets are rusted or bolts are corroded, replace hardware.
- If ball joint studs are severely corroded and won’t release, consider replacing entire subassembly or seek press-out tooling.

Torque references (example only — verify with your manual)
- Front sway bar link nuts: approx. 40–70 Nm (30–52 ft-lb)
- Wheel lug nuts: per wheel spec (typically 100–140 Nm for full-size van wheels) — verify.

Done.
rteeqp73

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